provence

The Most Popular Flower-Based Destinations Around the World

From cherry blossoms in Japan to lavender fields in Provence, these are the flower-filled destinations travelers plan entire trips around — timing anxiety included.

A fox sits by an old stone wall covered in colorful wildflowers in the English countryside as bird fly overhead

Some trips are built around museums. Others around food, beaches or weather that doesn’t actively try to ruin your plans. And then there are flower trips — the kind that hinge on a narrow window of time, a bit of luck, and a willingness to plan an entire journey around something that might already be gone by the time you arrive.

Flower-based travel is part pilgrimage, part gamble. Show up too early and you’re staring at bare branches or tightly closed buds. Show up too late and the petals are already carpeting the ground, beautiful in their own way but not quite what you came for. That anxiety — the constant checking of bloom forecasts, the obsessive refreshing of social feeds — is part of the appeal.

Around the world, certain flowers have become inseparable from the places that grow them. They shape city identities, define seasons and quietly drive tourism in ways that feel emotional rather than transactional. 

From fleeting cherry blossoms in Japan to marigolds that transform Mexico during Day of the Dead, these are the most popular flower-based destinations around the world — and why travelers keep chasing something so beautifully temporary.

A temple spire and curved bridge over a river in Japan with the cherry trees at full bloom

Cherry Blossoms in Japan

If flower-based travel has a gold standard, this is it.

Cherry blossom season in Japan isn’t just something you stumble into while sightseeing — it’s something people plan years around. Flights are booked with fingers crossed. Hotels fill months in advance. Entire itineraries hinge on a few fragile days when sakura trees briefly do what they’ve always done, indifferent to human schedules.

In cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, cherry blossoms turn everyday spaces into temporary landmarks. Parks, riverbanks and neighborhood streets become gathering places where people picnic under clouds of pink and white petals, fully aware that the moment is already slipping away. 

But Japan’s cherry blossom appeal isn’t limited to the obvious places. Many travelers deliberately skip the most crowded spots, chasing blooms in lesser-known cities or quieter regions where the experience feels more personal, less performative. The flowers are the same; the atmosphere changes completely.

What makes cherry blossoms such a powerful travel draw is their refusal to cooperate. Bloom forecasts are studied obsessively, but weather still wins. A warm spell can speed things up. A cold snap can delay everything. Miss the window by a week, and the trees are already shedding, their petals collecting on sidewalks and water like a beautiful consolation prize.

That uncertainty is exactly the point. Cherry blossom season taps into something deeper than scenery — it’s about impermanence, attention and showing up when it matters. The flowers don’t last, and that’s why people keep coming back, hoping to catch them at just the right moment next time.

When to go:
Late March through early April, though bloom timing varies by region and year. Southern areas tend to flower earlier; northern regions follow later.

Traveler tips:
Book accommodations well in advance and stay flexible if possible. Consider smaller cities or less-famous parks for a quieter experience, and don’t panic if petals start falling — peak bloom is beautiful, but so is the moment just after.

If autumn leaves are more your thing, try timing a trip with koyo in Japan.

Rows of red, white and yellow tulips by a windmill in the Netherlands

Tulips in the Netherlands

Tulips in the Netherlands occupy a strange space between nature and choreography.

For a few weeks each spring, the countryside turns into a living color chart. Red, yellow, pink and purple fields stretch toward the horizon with a precision that feels faintly suspicious, as if someone went out overnight with a ruler and a vision board. Which, historically speaking, isn’t far off. Tulips here thrive under planning, patience and a national fondness for order.

Keukenhof gets most of the attention, and for good reason. Its displays feel almost theatrical — rows of blooms arranged with such care they verge on surreal. Yet the real magic happens once you leave the gates behind. Beyond the gardens, tulip fields take over entire regions, lining rural roads and canals in broad, unapologetic stripes. This is the version best experienced slowly, preferably by bike, with plenty of stops just to stare.

Tulips have been woven into Dutch identity for centuries, from economic obsession to cultural shorthand. They appear everywhere — souvenirs, postcards, tourism campaigns — standing in for the country itself. 

Timing remains the only wildcard. Tulip season moves quickly and without apology. Arrive too early and the fields sit quietly green. Arrive too late and the flowers have already been cut back, their work complete. The reward goes to travelers willing to plan carefully and accept that the window stays narrow for a reason.

When to go:
Mid-March through early May, with peak blooms usually landing in April. Weather determines everything.

Traveler tips:
Keukenhof earns its reputation, but the countryside delivers the scale. Rent a bike or explore towns near Lisse to see the fields up close. Early mornings and overcast days often bring richer colors and fewer crowds.

EXPLORE MORE: A Benelux Itinerary

Rows of lavender growing in a field in Provence, France, with a stone house nearby

Lavender in Provence, France

For a brief stretch of summer, the landscape in Provence shifts into something almost unreal. Hills roll out in soft purples and silvers, neat rows of lavender stretching toward stone farmhouses and distant mountains. The scent hangs in the air, impossible to ignore, turning even a simple drive into a sensory experience.

Unlike flowers that cluster in parks or gardens, lavender defines the countryside itself. It’s woven into the region’s identity. Villages, roads and fields all participate, making Provence feel temporarily transformed rather than decorated.

Timing is everything. Lavender season is short and unforgiving. Arrive too early and the fields are still green, quietly preparing. Arrive too late and the harvest has already begun, leaving behind trimmed stems and a faint echo of what was there just days before. Travelers plan entire itineraries around this window, knowing the payoff lasts only weeks.

What draws people back year after year is the completeness of the experience. Lavender isn’t just pretty — it’s something you smell, feel and remember. The color, the heat of summer, the hum of bees in the fields — together they create a moment that feels both abundant and fleeting.

When to go:
Late June through mid-July is peak lavender season, though timing varies slightly by elevation and location

Traveler tips:
Base yourself near smaller villages rather than major cities to be closer to the fields. Early morning and late afternoon offer softer light and fewer crowds. Check local harvest updates before finalizing dates — once cutting starts, the show’s over fast.

BUG OUT: Why the Cicada Became the Symbol of Provence

Bluebells grow along a path leading to a cottage in the English countryside

Bluebells and Cottage Gardens in the United Kingdom

Spring in the UK arrives softly. One day the woods look ordinary. The next, they’re flooded with blue. Bluebells carpet forests and parklands in dense, low waves, transforming familiar paths into something quietly otherworldly, the sort of setting that has inspired centuries of fairy lore. People travel specifically to see them — often returning to the same woods year after year, guarding favorite spots like secrets.

Bluebell season carries real weight here. These flowers signal renewal, nostalgia, and a very specific version of spring that feels deeply tied to place. Walk through ancient woodland at peak bloom and the effect feels almost hushed, as if the landscape expects visitors to lower their voices.

Beyond the woods, flowers define the UK in more cultivated ways. Cottage gardens explode with color as soon as the weather allows, packed with foxgloves, roses, delphiniums and whatever survived winter. Places like the Cotswolds and Cornwall, along with other parts of the English countryside, draw travelers who time their visits around bloom cycles rather than attractions.

Timing remains everything. Bluebells bloom for a narrow window, usually April into early May, and weather decides the exact moment. Miss it and the woods return to green without ceremony. Catch it right and the experience lingers far longer than the walk itself.

For travelers who leave before the season peaks — or who miss it entirely — flowers still carry meaning back home. Many people turn to flower delivery UK services as a way to stay connected to the landscapes they traveled for, even after the blooms fade from view.

When to go:
April through May for bluebells; late spring through early summer for cottage gardens

Traveler tips:
Stick to marked paths in bluebell woods — trampling damages bulbs that take years to recover. Visit early in the morning or on weekdays for a quieter experience, and expect weather to shift plans without warning.

EAT UP: Guide to British Cuisine

Roses grow on a hill above the city of Portland, Oregon, with Mount Hood in the distance

Roses in Portland, Oregon, USA

Not all flower destinations are rural or seasonal escapes. Some are baked directly into a city’s identity.

Portland has been calling itself the City of Roses for more than a century, and unlike many nicknames, this one still holds up. Roses aren’t tucked away on the outskirts or limited to a single bloom window — they’re part of the city’s fabric, climbing fences, lining streets and anchoring public spaces.

The International Rose Test Garden is the obvious centerpiece, perched above the city with views that stretch toward Mount Hood on clear days. Thousands of varieties bloom here each year, carefully tended and quietly competitive, as growers test new roses destined for gardens around the world. It’s formal, yes, but never stuffy. People wander, linger, and treat it less like an attraction and more like a shared backyard.

Timing still matters, but the window is generous. Roses bloom over months rather than days, offering a softer version of flower travel — less gamble, more assurance. It’s a reminder that not every floral pilgrimage has to come with anxiety attached.

When to go:
Late May through September, with peak blooms typically in June and July

Traveler tips:
Visit the rose garden early in the morning or on weekdays for quieter paths. Pair your visit with a walk through nearby Washington Park or a slow neighborhood stroll to see how roses show up beyond the formal garden.

A Mexican cemetery at Dia de los Muertos, with candy skulls, candles and marigolds covering the graves and pathways, with a church in the background

Marigolds in Mexico

Marigolds in Mexico arrive in saturated waves of orange and gold, thick with scent and impossible to ignore. For a short stretch each fall, they flood streets, cemeteries, markets and kitchens, turning everyday places into something charged and ceremonial. 

During Día de los Muertos, marigolds have a job description. Their color and smell guide spirits back home, tracing paths from doorways to altars to graves. You see them scattered like breadcrumbs, piled high around photographs and candles, woven into arches and crowns. Cemeteries like the Panteón 5 de Diciembre in Puerto Vallarta glow after dark, petals catching candlelight while families linger, talk, eat and remember.

Markets feel especially alive during this time. Buckets overflow with marigolds sold by the armful, meant for someone specific rather than general display. These flowers serve memory, grief, humor and affection all at once. The mood holds warmth alongside loss, celebration alongside reverence.

Timing matters intensely. Arrive outside the window, and the marigolds retreat just as quickly as they appeared, taking the altars and processions with them. During Día de los Muertos, entire cities feel temporarily reshaped, as if normal life stepped aside to make room for something older and more intimate.

Travelers return because the experience feels human at its core. Marigolds turn flowers into language — one spoken between generations, across time and through ritual. You leave with the sense that beauty here carries responsibility.

When to go:
Late October through November 2, with celebrations peaking around Día de los Muertos.

Traveler tips:
Move slowly and observe before engaging. Markets offer the fullest sensory experience early in the day, while cemeteries come alive after sunset. Smaller towns often provide deeper, more personal encounters than major cities.

DO YOU BELIEVE IN MAGIC? Samhain Divination Spells

Colorful orchids grow along a path among palm trees in Singapore

Orchids in Singapore

Orchids in Singapore look like something engineered in a lab by someone with a flair for drama. They curl, twist, spike and glow in colors that feel almost synthetic. Some resemble insects. Others look mid-metamorphosis. It’s easy to forget these things grow out of soil. In Singapore, orchids feel closer to science fiction than gardening — which explains why the city embraced them so completely.

Walk through the Singapore Botanic Gardens and the orchid collection feels less like a stroll and more like a catalog of botanical overachievement. Thousands of varieties bloom with unapologetic confidence, each labeled and tracked, as if daring you to question how much control humans can exert over nature. Singapore answers that question decisively.

Gardens by the Bay doubles down on the spectacle. Orchids glow beneath glass domes, backlit and theatrical, performing for visitors who came expecting futuristic architecture and left thinking about flowers instead. It’s maximalist. It’s bizarrely beautiful. It works.

To locals, orchids signal status and ambition. Hybrid blooms get named after visiting dignitaries and world leaders, turning flowers into diplomatic souvenirs. Giving someone an orchid here carries weight. These plants represent polish, progress, and a country very comfortable presenting itself as hyper-competent.

For travelers, orchids offer a rare luxury: certainty. They bloom year-round, immune to weather roulette. Singapore delivers the flowers exactly as promised — strange yet immaculate.

When to go:
Any time. Orchids thrive here year-round.

Traveler tips:
Start at the Singapore Botanic Gardens to see the sheer range, then head to Gardens by the Bay for spectacle. Pay attention to the shapes — orchids here reward close inspection and a slightly unhinged imagination.

SINGAPORE DAY TRIP: Visit Batam

Sunflowers grow among other flowers in the rolling hills of Tuscany at sunset, with a villa in the distance

Sunflowers in Tuscany, Italy

Sunflowers in Tuscany feel almost aggressive in their cheer. They line roads and hillsides in tight formation, huge yellow faces tracking the sun with unnerving enthusiasm. Driving through the countryside during peak bloom turns into a constant exercise in restraint — every few minutes presents another “pull over immediately” moment. Eventually, everyone gives in.

Sunflowers come with scale. Fields stretch wide and loud, unapologetically bright against dusty roads, cypress trees and stone farmhouses. In Italy, flowers have always carried deeper meaning, from religious devotion to seasonal rites of passage, a theme explored in Italian floristry and floral symbolism. The effect feels cinematic, the kind of scenery that convinces people their vacation photos finally match the fantasy.

Sunflowers also fit Tuscany’s rhythm. These fields appear alongside vineyards and wheat, part of a working landscape rather than a curated display. Locals treat them as another seasonal marker, a sign summer has arrived in earnest. 

Timing still calls the shots. Sunflowers bloom quickly and fade just as fast, their faces drooping once the season turns. Catch them at their peak and the countryside feels electric. Miss it and the fields move on without ceremony.

People keep chasing sunflower season because it delivers instant joy. The experience carries zero mystery and full commitment: bold color, warm air, wide-open space. Sometimes that’s exactly what a trip needs.

When to go:
Late June through July, with timing varying slightly, depending on location and weather.

Traveler tips:
Rent a car to explore rural roads freely and expect frequent stops. Early morning and golden hour offer the best light and fewer crowds. Respect private property — the best views often come from the roadside.

Llamas graze among the wildflowers that have popped up in the Atacama Desert in Chile, with flamingos in the water nearby

Wildflowers in the Atacama Desert, Chile

Wildflowers in Chile’s Atacama Desert feel like a practical joke pulled by nature.

Most of the year, the Atacama ranks among the driest places on Earth — a landscape of dust, rock and silence that stretches toward the horizon with zero interest in pleasing visitors. Then, every so often, rain falls. Real rain. Enough to wake seeds that have been waiting patiently underground for years.

When that happens, the desert blooms.

Pink, purple, yellow and white flowers spread across the sand in an event locals call desierto florido. Hillsides and plains erupt into color where travelers expected emptiness. The transformation feels surreal.

This bloom carries real meaning in northern Chile. Locals treat it as a rare gift rather than a guarantee, a reminder that even the harshest landscapes hold quiet potential. People drive long distances to see it, fully aware the window stays brief and unpredictable.

Timing here plays hardball. Blooms depend entirely on rainfall, which varies wildly from year to year. Some years pass with nothing. Other years deliver an explosion that lasts weeks. Visitors arrive hopeful, checking forecasts and local reports, aware that certainty holds no power in this part of the world.

Travelers chase the Atacama bloom because it offers bragging rights and wonder in equal measure. Seeing flowers rise out of a desert famous for refusing life feels like witnessing a secret. Miss it, and the desert returns to its usual self without apology.

When to go:
August through October, only in years with sufficient rainfall. Exact timing changes annually.

Traveler tips:
Follow local Chilean news and park updates closely before planning. Stay flexible with travel dates if possible. Respect protected areas and resist the urge to wander into fragile bloom zones — this spectacle survives best when admired from a distance.

Pink lotuses float on pads in a bay filled with boats and small temples amid large rock formations in Vietnam at twilight

Lotus Flowers in Thailand and Vietnam

Lotus flowers thrive in places that feel calm on the surface and complicated underneath. You see them floating in temple ponds, rising clean and deliberate from murky water, petals intact and serene. In Thailand and Vietnam, lotus flowers carry centuries of meaning — purity, renewal, spiritual discipline — yet they remain deeply ordinary. People buy them on the way to pray. Vendors stack them beside fruit and incense. They exist as part of the daily rhythm rather than a special occasion.

At temples, lotus ponds shape the atmosphere. The flowers soften heat and noise, creating spaces that invite pause. Monks carry lotus buds during ceremonies. Worshippers offer them quietly, often without explanation. 

Lotus flowers also appear far from sacred spaces. They grow in agricultural wetlands, in canals and along roads leading out of cities. In Vietnam, lotus seeds and roots end up in kitchens as often as altars. The flower bridges spiritual and practical life with ease.

Timing matters less here. Lotus season stretches generously across warmer months, and blooms appear daily, opening in the morning and closing by afternoon. 

People remember lotus flowers because they anchor a sense of place. The experience feels quiet, grounded and human — a reminder that beauty can exist alongside routine.

When to go:
May through October, with peak blooms during the warmer, wetter months.

Traveler tips:
Visit temples early in the morning when lotus flowers open and crowds are thinner. Watch how locals interact with them before reaching for a camera. In Vietnam, try lotus tea or dishes using lotus root to experience the flower beyond the visual.

A man puts his arm around another man as they stand in a lavender field, looking out at the sunset

Why Flowers Keep Turning Places Into Destinations

Flower-based travel asks for patience, flexibility and a willingness to miss things. Entire trips hinge on weather patterns, bloom forecasts and timing that refuses to cooperate. And yet people keep coming back for more.

Maybe that’s the point.

Flowers force travelers to surrender control. You plan carefully, arrive hopeful, and accept whatever version of the moment shows up. Sometimes the fields explode with color. Sometimes petals carpet the ground, already slipping into memory. Either way, the experience lands because it belongs to that place, at that moment, and never quite repeats itself.

Across the world, flowers shape how places see themselves and how visitors remember them — from cherry blossoms signaling impermanence in Japan to marigolds guiding memory in Mexico, from meticulously cultivated orchids in Singapore to sunflowers lighting up Tuscan backroads. These destinations stay popular because they offer something temporary, visceral and stubbornly uncommodified.

You can photograph flowers, plan around them, even chase them across continents. You just can’t make them wait for you. And that tension — between preparation and surrender — is what keeps flower travel irresistible. –Wally

’TIS THE SEASON: Spring Festivals Around the World 

Spring Festivals Around the World: Sakura, Holi, Semana Santa and More

From Japan’s cherry blossom hanami to India’s colorful Holi and Spain’s heart-pounding San Fermín, discover spring festivals that celebrate renewal, connection and pure joy. 

Spring is the season that grabs you by the hand and pulls you outside, whispering, “Wake up, the world’s alive again!” It’s when the earth shrugs off winter’s weight, and people respond with festivals that feel like love letters to life itself. 

Some of the most enduring spring traditions come from rituals that have been blooming for centuries. The celebration of Ostara at the spring equinox draws inspiration from an ancient Anglo-Saxon festival said to honor the goddess Eostre. This, in turn, influenced early Christians, who created Easter, and is a large part of why we have the Easter Bunny today.  

Spring festivals are raw, messy, beautiful collisions of culture, memory and the kind of joy that makes your chest ache. Let’s wander through a few corners of the globe, from Japan’s petal-dusted picnics to the pulse-pounding streets of Pamplona, each festival a one-of-a-kind story that’ll stick with you long after the season fades.

1. Japan: Sakura Whispers and Stolen Moments

In Japan, spring arrives like a secret shared between friends: the cherry blossoms, known as sakura, bloom in a hush of pink, turning every park and riverside into a fleeting masterpiece. (It’s a perfect counterpart to koyo, the changing colors of leaves in the fall.)

I’ll never forget my first hanami — the custom of gathering to enjoy the beauty of cherry blossoms — in a tiny Osaka park, sprawled on a blanket with strangers who offered me homemade onigiri (rice balls or triangles) and a sip of plum wine. We didn’t need words; the petals drifting down said it all. Sakura isn’t just about the gorgeousness of nature — it’s a gut-punch reminder that nothing lasts forever, so you’d better soak it up. Families, lovers, old friends — they all come together, laughing over sake or staring quietly at the trees, each person wrestling with their own thoughts about time. It’s less a festival and more a moment where the world holds its breath.

2. Spain: San Fermín’s Roar and Reckless Courage

Half a world away, Pamplona, Spain turns spring’s energy into something primal. The San Fermín Festival, brewing through spring and erupting in July, is a beast of a celebration. Picture narrow streets, the air electric with nerves, and the thunder of bulls charging behind runners who are equal parts terrified and exhilarated. 

I stood on a rickety balcony once, clutching a sangria, watching the encierro unfold below: runners tripping, laughing, living on the edge of chaos. It’s the ultimate thrill, sure, but it’s also a nod to history, to Saint Fermín (the patron saint of Pamplona, who was beheaded for his Christian faith), to the days when humans and nature stared each other down. The whole city erupts in a burst of music, dance and sweat-soaked joy. 

If you’re crazy enough to go, keep Flight Refunder in your back pocket — they’ll help you reclaim cash if a canceled flight threatens to derail your adventure.

3. India: Holi’s Explosion of Color and Connection

In India, spring crashes in with Holi, a festival that’s like diving headfirst into a kaleidoscope. I was in a dusty Rajasthan village once, my clothes soaked, my face smeared with turquoise and magenta powder, dancing with a crowd of strangers to a drumbeat that shook the ground. 

Holi is about flinging colors, but it’s also a time to tear down walls — between people, and between the past and present. The story of Krishna — a beloved Hindu god known for his playful spirit — and his soulmate Radha runs through the heart of Holi. Their legendary love, full of laughter and mischief, is echoed in every handful of gulal, the brightly colored powder that revelers throw into the air (and, inevitably, onto other people). 

At Holi, it’s impossible to just be a bystander; you’re part of the chaos, laughing until your sides hurt, feeling like the world could be this free, this kind, every day. It’s the kind of messy joy that stains your skin and your soul.

4. Mexico: Semana Santa’s Soulful Dance of Faith

Mexico’s Semana Santa is spring at its most heartfelt. Holy Week turns towns into theaters of devotion, with processions that weave through streets blanketed in flower petals and sawdust art. 

I wandered San Miguel de Allende one April, caught in a crowd following a statue of the Virgin Mary, her face serene under a crown of roses. The air was heavy with incense, marigolds and the soft hum of prayers. 

Every town does it differently — some with mournful silence, others with bursts of brass bands — but it’s all so alive, blending Catholic roots with ancient Mexican spirit. You feel it in your bones: This is more than religion; it’s about a community stitching itself together, step by sacred step.

5. France: The Soft Spring Embrace of Easter in Provence

Then there’s Provence, France, where spring feels like a warm breeze. Easter here is less about grand spectacles and more about the small, perfect moments: a village square strung with lights, a market stall piled high with crusty baguettes and jars of lavender honey. 

I spent one Easter in Gordes, a storybook hilltop village of stone houses and winding lanes in Provence, nibbling on almond-studded nougat while a parade of kids in flower crowns skipped by. The hills were just starting to green, the air sharp with herbs and promise. Provence’s festivals are simple, soulful and so generous with their beauty. You leave feeling like you’ve been let in on a secret about how to live well.

The Joy, Chaos and Charm of Spring Festivals

Spring festivals are the world’s way of saying, “Hey, we’re all in this together.” Whether it’s Japan’s quiet awe under cherry blossoms, Spain’s reckless sprint through Pamplona’s streets, or India’s color-soaked chaos, these moments are where humanity shines — flawed, vibrant and so damn alive. Traveling to them is like chasing sparks, each one lighting up a piece of who you are. –Erik Ilin

The Quirky Charms of the L’Isle sur la Sorgue Sunday Market

Part flea market, part farmers market, stalls line the river that encircles this town in Provence known for antiques. 

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

We learned about L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from ma mère. She’s always been good at research and finding fun excursions as well as amazing places to stay on vacation. I still recall that she and her fellow librarians in Annapolis were among the first ones to realize the potential of what was then an upstart search engine named Google. 

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

While we were staying in Aix-en-Provence (those Provençals sure love their hyphens), the Shirl, as we affectionately refer to my mom — sometimes even to her face! — informed us of the Sunday market in a nearby medieval town named L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Most of the small towns in Provence have their charms, but what makes this one so downright adorable is the fact that it’s encircled by a river — hence its name, which references an island on the River Sorgue. The Sunday market stretches along the water’s edge halfway around the town.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Round and Round in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

We got up early on Sunday morning to catch a train to L’Isle. (I’m not sure if that’s what locals call it, but L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just too much of a mouthful to say every time. For the record, the town is pronounced, “Leel sur la Sorg.”)

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

Bridges crisscross the canals, and now and then you’ll pass large wooden wheels in the water, covered with beards of green algae. They’re now fenced off and just there for show, the mills they were once connected to long gone. Et bien sûr, with the canal surrounding the town, it has earned the predictable nickname “the Venice of Provence.” We were there back in 2017, but more recent photos reveal that they’ve run with this, and the river is now filled with gondolas. I’m not sure how I feel about that. Aw, heck, who am I kidding? Duke and I would have totally caught a ride in one.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

About 300 stalls are said to set up each Sunday, selling everything from secondhand goods to saucisson. 

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

Right as we entered the town, we passed a table with various representations of the Provençal mascot, the cicada. (Learn why this lovely part of France chose a bug as its symbol.) We admired an iron trivet shaped like a cicada. Not sure we wanted to lug it around all day, we uttered that famous phrase of many a traveler: “We’ll get it on the way back.” 

But then I remembered having been burned before: You never know where the day will take you, or if the vendor will sell out or pack it up early. So I forked over the requisite francs (actually, by this time it was probably euros, but that doesn’t have as nice a ring to it). The trivet still sits in the windowsill above our kitchen sink. 

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The Shirl’s Suitor

One section of the market opens up into a square filled with various stands selling food items. A diminutive man, who wasn’t even as tall as my 5’2” mother, with a prominent nose and a beaming smile, called out to us as we passed by. He zeroed in on the Shirl, and started flirting with her something fierce. He shamelessly ogled her, showering her with compliments, wrapping his arm around her back, unphased by the presence of my father. He was so full of energy and was so amusingly slick, we all just laughed at his antics. 

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

The samples and the flirting are free!

The samples and the flirting are free!

He was selling various tapenades and other spreads, and offered to have us try some free samples before realizing he had run out of bread. 

So he told us, “Un moment,“ and darted off to a nearby stall, where he snatched a baguette. It looked like he stole it, which cracked us up — though I’m sure he has an agreement with nearby vendors. 

He sliced the bread up, slathered on some of his colorful spreads and batted his eyes at the “belle madame.” He was so utterly charming and over the top, we felt obliged to purchase quite a few jars of his wares. 

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

At one point, the Shirl stopped to admire a scarf. It was blue, of course. We joke that my mom likes lots of colors: blue and white and…blue. 

She put the scarf down and moved on through the crowd. We waited till she was out of sight, and then Duke snatched the scarf and bought it for her as a Christmas present. He’s sneaky that way.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Gone Antiquing

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also known for its antique shops. The town’s reputation as an antiquing hub draws crowds from all over Europe, and prices tend to be high. Peter Mayle, he of A Year in Provence fame, famously groused, “The only thing you can’t get in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a bargain.”

Despite being steeped in the fancy heirlooms of the past, L’Isle has a playfulness to it. Most of the stores don’t take themselves too seriously. You’ll find a statue of a giraffe statue peeking its head up amongst birdcages or a smiling clown looking to have his finger pulled. 

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

Wally clowns around.

Wally clowns around.

We hit a bunch of shops after wandering through the market. One was situated right on the river’s edge. It seemed to balance precariously over the water, like the slightest push would cause it to totter into the Sorgue. We peered out the back door and chuckled over an amusing vignette: In the middle of the river, two chairs sat partially submerged at a table.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

Inside the two-level store chock-a-block with antique bric-a-brac, we rummaged through a bin of hand-painted numbered tiles until we found two 5s, which we passed off to my parents, who purchased them to use as their house number. 

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

We grabbed lunch at a café and sat on a small balcony over the river. The glass my beer came in was so cute, complete with a cicada, it somehow found its way in my bag. Karma ended up catching up with me, though. Because we hadn’t been back in our vacation rental for five minutes before the bag bumped into a wrought iron gazebo-like structure by the kitchen, and I heard the glass shatter. C’est la vie! –Wally

 

The Doors of Provence

A pictorial journey through les portes de Provence, accompanied by quotes about doors.

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During the week we spent based in Aix-en-Provence, France, we practically overdosed on adorable. I mean, those people are doing something right. The towns are quaint and filled with markets. You’ll pass through small squares with fountains in the middle.

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And then there are the doors. We couldn’t help but snap photos on every street we strolled along. Many of the doors are surprisingly narrow. Many have intricate stone archways with faces guarding the entrance. Many sported intricately carved panels. Some opened in the middle, like giant shutters. A few had somewhat intimidating knockers. And most were of a deep brown wood, though now and then you’d see one painted a blue as bright as the Provençal sky.

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Here are our favorite doors from Aix and its environs, paired with quotes about this architectural detail that never fails to captivate. Step right in. –Wally

There are so many doors to open. I am impatient to begin.
–Daniel Keyes, “Flowers for Algernon”
Doors are funny things.
Some lead to somewhere exciting and wonderful, while others lead to the mundane and ordinary. Some, because they are gaudy and ornate, usher us into the land of greed and money. But many look unassuming and plain, yet hidden behind their simplicity one can find love; warmth; a cozy fire; a home cooked meal and a beautiful family.
It’s these doors I search for in life and it’s these doors that I shall find.
–Anthony T. Hincks
I feel very adventurous. There are so many doors to be opened, and I’m not afraid to look behind them.
–Elizabeth Taylor
Windows open out onto the universe around you, but doors will take you to where your imagination lies.
–Anthony T. Hincks
If you feel you have to open a particular door, open it, otherwise all your life that door will haunt your mind!
–Mehmet Murat İldan
A smile will open more doors than what a frown will.
–Anthony T.Hincks
If God had to build a door, it’s because we erected a wall.
–Craig D. Lounsbrough

Discover the Charms of La Ciotat

A little-known port in the South of France, where you can hike up to Parc du Mugel botanic gardens and see the Eden Théâtre, where the Lumière Brothers screened the first moving picture.

An on-the-fly decision brought us to La Ciotat, France

An on-the-fly decision brought us to La Ciotat, France

The plan was to take a day trip to Aubagne in the South of France. But because of the all-too-common and unpredictable rail strike, we were unable to take the train. So Wally, his parents and I decided we’d try out the bus. We bought tickets and boarded the 72 bus from Aix.

The picturesque port of La Ciotat

The picturesque port of La Ciotat

During the ride, Wally struck up a conversation with an adorable young woman with large expressive eyes and chestnut-colored hair tousled in a loose braid. She asked us in French where we were going, and when she heard that our plan was to hit Aubagne, she instead suggested La Ciotat, saying, “It’s super!” pronouncing the word “soo-pair.”

It was here that Auguste and Louis Lumière screened their movie, ‘Arrival of a Train at La Ciotat Station,’ which sent some viewers running from their seats in terror.
Many of the buildings of Provence are pastel-colored, with shuttered windows

Many of the buildings of Provence are pastel-colored, with shuttered windows

We decided to follow her advice; after all, she knows the region better than we did. And so we got off the bus early, to explore La Ciotat.

Duke on the beach at La Ciotat

Duke on the beach at La Ciotat

The charming seaside town was the birthplace of cinema and the setting for many of the pioneering Lumière brothers’ first moving pictures. The quaint old port is now filled with luxury yachts and fishing boats bobbing upon the gentle waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Yachts, sailboats and seagulls in a postcard-perfect setting

Yachts, sailboats and seagulls in a postcard-perfect setting

A delightful place to spend an afternoon

A delightful place to spend an afternoon

Fishing boats line the harbor at La Ciotat

Fishing boats line the harbor at La Ciotat

Apparently the town also holds a yearly festival in October to celebrate its miraculous immunity from the Great Plague of 1720. Nearby Marseille did not fare so well and lost about 50% of its population! Historians believe that the ancient fortified stone walls surrounding the hamlet acted as a barrier to the wave of destruction caused by the bubonic plague, helping the townsfolk of La Ciotat to avoid a terrible fate.

Église Notre-Dame de l'Assomption

Église Notre-Dame de l'Assomption

Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption

Once you arrive in La Ciotat, you have a choice of adventures. If you make your way from the port like we did, you’ll pass the town’s largest church, Our Lady of the Assumption, with its single belltower. Built at the start of the 17th century, it has a restrained Romanesque style façade. Pale rose-colored limestone used to construct the church came from the ancient quarries of La Couronne.

Unfortunately, we were unable to see inside, as the doors were locked.

Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption
25 Rue Adolphe Abeille

Eden Théâtre, where the first movie was screened

Eden Théâtre, where the first movie was screened

Eden Théâtre

Built in 1889 and facing the Mediterranean seafront, the landmark Eden Théâtre, with its butter-yellow façade, is the world’s oldest surviving public movie theater in operation.

It was here that Auguste and Louis Lumière screened their black-and-white silent movie, Arrival of a Train at La Ciotat Station, which shows a steam train pulling into a station. The scene certainly made quite an impression, sending some viewers running from their seats in terror as the image of an oncoming train hurtled towards them.

Eden Théâtre
25 Boulevard Georges Clémenceau

The gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean

The gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean

The botanic garden of Parc du Mugel is worth the hike uphill

The botanic garden of Parc du Mugel is worth the hike uphill

Parc du Mugel

Wally and I decided to check out the botanic garden of Parc du Mugel, while Shirley and Dave explored the small cobblestone-lined streets. The park is quite a hike but ended up being a highlight of our trip.

Since we weren’t completely sure where we were going, we stopped in at Au Poivre d’Ane, a bookstore, to ask directions to the park. A white cat named Dickens slept in the front window. The shopkeeper told us to follow the Avenue des Calanques until we reached the iron gates at the end and becomes Avenue du Mugel.

As we walked up the gradual incline of the road, we passed derelict port buildings covered in graffiti. A fine wire mesh, presumably to prevent erosion, covers the lower half of the cliffs like a hairnet keeping errant stones and soil in place.

When we reached the top, we were rewarded with the natural splendor of Parc du Mugel.

Graffiti decorates the walls along the thin slivers of rocky beaches

Graffiti decorates the walls along the thin slivers of rocky beaches

The Park’s History

In 1923, the land was purchased by Marseille coal merchant Louis Fouquet. A man of considerable wealth, Fouquet created a great arboretum, planting plane trees, cork oaks, chestnut trees, bamboos, mimosas and bougainvilleas.

The town eventually bought back the entire property, and in 1982, the nature preserve was opened to the public.

Wally went in the water. It was cold

Wally went in the water. It was cold

Located at the foot of a massive calanque, or seaside cliff, the 270-foot-high Bec de l’Aigle, Eagle’s Beak, shelters the site from the mistral, the powerful, cold dry wind that blows through the Rhône Valley to the Mediterranean coast. The Bec is composed of a conglomerate called poudingue or puddingstone. The “pudding” is made up of a fine-grained sediment composed of silt and limestone, flecked with small round pebbles the color of pomegranate seeds.

Elderly sunbathers with dark, leathery skin are a common sight in the South of France

Elderly sunbathers with dark, leathery skin are a common sight in the South of France

Wally and I followed a steep but shaded trail filled with chestnut trees, Aleppo pines and laurels before reaching the belvedere, a fancy name for a lookout point, to enjoy the panoramic view of the sun-dappled Mediterranean Sea. It was worth the effort.

Fishermen try to catch their dinner on the shores of La Ciotat

Fishermen try to catch their dinner on the shores of La Ciotat

The park has an impluvium irrigation system, which collects rainwater runoff for water-thirsty plants, and calades, retaining walls hidden by the lush greenery that act as ribs along the slope to hold back the earth in certain areas.

These lovingly arranged gardens contain wildflowers, cactuses, roses, aromatic and medicinal plants as well as a citrus fruit orchard.

Parc du Mugel
Calanque du Mugel

A pleasant stroll around the port 

A pleasant stroll around the port 

If you’re in the Aix or Marseille area and want to take an off-the-beaten path, follow our bus acquantaince’s advice and visit La Ciotat. The charming town, with its beautiful landscape and historic theater, deserves a visit for a few hours. –Duke

Windows with laundry hanging outside are another common sight in Provence

Windows with laundry hanging outside are another common sight in Provence

A Tour of the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur

Looking for things to do in Aix-en-Provence? Travel through time at this historic church.

The Cathédral Saint Sauveur is one of the highlights of Aix-en-Provence, France.

The Cathédral Saint Sauveur is one of the highlights of Aix-en-Provence, France.

Cathédrale Saint Sauveur
34 Place des Martyrs-de-la-Résistance
13100 Aix-en-Provence, France

Looking through the Gothic nave into what’s known as the choir

Looking through the Gothic nave into what’s known as the choir

Tucked amongst the pastel-colored 17th century mansions and narrow streets of the charming vielle ville, or old town, of Aix-en-Provence, France lies one of its oldest and most interesting monuments, the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur. (Try pronouncing it something like, “Seh So-Vurr.) Rising majestically, it occupies the site where the ancient forum of Roman Aquae Sextiae once stood.

During the French Revolution, the statues of the kings of France were decapitated.
Good things come to those who wait: Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century and went on into the 19th century.

Good things come to those who wait: Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century and went on into the 19th century.

A Brief History of Saint Sauveur

Located at a point along what was the Via Aurelia, the principal highway from the Iberian Peninsula to Asia Minor during the dominition of the Roman Empire, the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur evolved in fits and starts, beginning in the 5th century. Delays between the laying of its foundation and its completion due to wars, la peste (bubonic plague) and lack of financing bear witness to the amalgam of ecclesiastical architectural styles that make up the religious landmark.

Did Jesus really knock up Mary Magdalene, who gave birth to their kid…in the South of France?!

Did Jesus really knock up Mary Magdalene, who gave birth to their kid…in the South of France?!

Saint Maximinus and Mary Magdalene’s Voyage

According to Christian tradition, Saint Maximinus arrived in Provence from Bethany, a village near Jerusalem, accompanied by Mary Magdalene on a rudderless boat belonging to her brother, Lazarus. It was expected that they would perish at sea — however, the voyage brought them to the southern coast of France, landing in the city of Marseilles, where they achieved success in converting the French people to Christianity. In fact, Maximinus became the first Archbishop of Aix. He built a modest chapel here and dedicated it to Saint Sauveur, Christ the Savior.

There’s a popular theory (written about in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code) that says Mary Magdalene was pregnant at the time of her journey — with the baby daddy being none other than Christ himself! The descendants of that child eventually married into the French royal family and started the Merovingian dynasty.

ANOTHER “DA VINCI CODE” CONNECTION: Saint-Sulpice and the Mystery of the Rose Line

Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century with the baptistery.

Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century with the baptistery.

The Baptistery Rotunda

The oldest part of Saint Sauveur is the baptistery, which was built at the beginning of the 5th century and predates the current cathedral by almost 700 years. As the town grew, the cathedral was renovated in the 16th century in the Romanesque style, evidence of the growing economic clout of the Catholic diocese.

This is the area off to the right when you enter the cathedral, and indeed, it has an ancient feel to it.

This area of Saint Sauveur is thought to have been built atop a temple to Apollo.

This area of Saint Sauveur is thought to have been built atop a temple to Apollo.

Allegedly, French historian Jean Scholastique Pitton uncovered an artifact, the orphaned leg of a statue, while excavating the site. He presumed this to belong to the sun god Apollo, and this became the origin of the Provençal myth that the church was built atop a pagan Roman temple dedicated to Apollo.

The eight sides of the baptismal font represent regeneration — you’ll see octagons all over this part of the church.

The eight sides of the baptismal font represent regeneration — you’ll see octagons all over this part of the church.

Eight slender columns of granite and green marble with Corinthian capitals surround the octagonal Merovingian baptismal basin. It was fed by the warm waters coming from the Roman baths. Its eight sides are a symbolic number of regeneration.

As the cathedral was enlarged over the centuries, it became a mishmash of three main architectural styles.

As the cathedral was enlarged over the centuries, it became a mishmash of three main architectural styles.

A Tale of Three Naves

The cathedral consists of three naves, compositionally connected to one another but nevertheless clearly distinguishable. The north is in the Baroque style, the south Romanesque, which served as the main nave prior to the construction of the central Gothic nave.

 

Romanesque Nave

At the beginning of the 12th century, the principal nave was constructed next to the baptistery in the Romanesque style and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The front of the nave was demolished during the 15th century and replaced with a new Gothic façade and bell tower.

The cloister, just beyond the baptistery and accessed through the Romanesque nave, was built next to the cathedral between the late 12th century and the beginning of the 13th century. It was reduced in size in the early 18th century to expand the west corridor. At the corners, pillars are decorated with bas-reliefs depicting the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John.

 

Gothic Nave

About 200 years later, further expansion occurred, and a second massive Gothic nave and apse were added. The wings of the transept were begun in 1285 and completed in 1316. Bay by bay, the Romanesque church was embellished and transformed in the Gothic style. This is the area you’ll see first if you walk straight into the cathedral.

There’s a real organ — and a fake one added for the sake of symmetry.

There’s a real organ — and a fake one added for the sake of symmetry.

Baroque Nave

Just to the left of the Gothic nave as you enter the church, you’ll come to the small Baroque nave. To either side are green and gold organ cases in the Louis XV style, built by Jean-Esprit Isnard. The instrumental part by De Ducroquet dates from 1855. Both are listed historical monuments. An identical but false organ chest was built on the opposite side — just for the sake of symmetry.

Three saints can be found in the Baroque nave, including Marguerite of Antioch, off to the right, with an unusual-looking dragon.

Three saints can be found in the Baroque nave, including Marguerite of Antioch, off to the right, with an unusual-looking dragon.

A fascinating stone altarpiece commissioned by the Aygosi family, originally installed in the church of the Carmelites in Aix, can be seen in the Baroque aisle. Carved from stone by Audinet Stephani and installed in 1823, it depicts a variety of saints: Marcel, Anne with the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus and Marguerite of Antioch emerging from the shoulders of a dragon who had swallowed her whole.

Stained glass saints in Saint Sauveur

Stained glass saints in Saint Sauveur

Apse and Artwork

The cathedral underwent extensive renovation in the 19th century. The nave was redecorated with painted and sculpted neo-Gothic elements added between 1857 and 1862.

In the Gothic nave, you’ll find a modern cathedra, a throne for the bishop. We think it looks more like something he’d take a dump on.

In the Gothic nave, you’ll find a modern cathedra, a throne for the bishop. We think it looks more like something he’d take a dump on.

The choir gallery of the Gothic nave contains the high altar with a pair of carved giltwood angels, a modern sculptural cathedra, or bishop’s throne, which looks a bit like a gray tankless toilet backed by three wavy, glittering bronze panels symbolic of the Holy Trinity. Nineteenth century stained glass windows feature the coats of arms of high-ranking church clergy.

Check to see if the Triptych of the Burning Bush, by Nicolas Froment, will be on display when you visit.

Check to see if the Triptych of the Burning Bush, by Nicolas Froment, will be on display when you visit.

The cathedral’s most famous work is the Triptych of the Burning Bush by Nicolas Froment. Commissioned by King René for his funerary chapel in the church of Les Grands-Carmes, it is considered one of the most beautiful 15th century paintings in Europe. Painted in 1475 and 1476, it has resided in the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur since the 19th century. Due to its fragility, they only open the case on specific days; sadly, ours was not one of those days.

Look for the Roman prophetesses lining the arch of the main entrance, among other sculptures.

Look for the Roman prophetesses lining the arch of the main entrance, among other sculptures.

Western Façade

With the completion of the nave, attention was drawn to the western façade, which was demolished and replaced in the Gothic style. Figures representing the Apostles flank the cathedral doors. Above the portal are the figures of 12 sibyls, pagan fortune tellers from antiquity, surrounded by foliage, fruit and flowers.

Holy Savior! They built a church for you!

Holy Savior! They built a church for you!

During the French Revolution, the statues on the façade, believed to depict the kings of France, were decapitated, and the heads were lost. The current ones are replicas.

Careful, Saint Michael! I know you’re busy killing the Devil, but we don’t want you falling off the roof!

Careful, Saint Michael! I know you’re busy killing the Devil, but we don’t want you falling off the roof!

The centerpiece of the façade is a statue of the Archangel Saint Michael vanquishing Satan with a cross, made in 1507 by sculptor Jean Paumier.

 

If you’re in Aix-en-Provence, pull yourself away from the delightful open-air markets to spend an hour or so exploring the choose-your-own-architectural-adventure of the Cathédral Saint Sauveur. It’s a bit like traveling through time, as you make your way from the ancient baptistery to the modern bishop’s throne. –Duke

La Cigale: Why the Cicada Became the Symbol of Provence

A Jean de la Fontaine fable helped the noisome cicada bug burrow its way into Provençal hearts.

The noisy (and let’s face it, rather ugly) bug the cicada became the chosen motif to represent the French region of Provence

The noisy (and let’s face it, rather ugly) bug the cicada became the chosen motif to represent the French region of Provence

Aix-en-Provence, France has all the trappings of a charming Provençal town, in particular its farmers markets filled with fresh produce, assorted cheeses, lavender sachets and freshly cut sunflowers. What we didn’t expect to find depicted everywhere was cicadas. There were brightly glazed ceramic ones, table linens with their likeness and pastel-colored cicada-shaped soaps. You can imagine our surprise and delight, when Wally and I learned that the people of Provence chose cicadas (which I call “ree-ree bugs” because of the sound they make) as their honorary symbol. We had to discover how this came about.

When summer arrives in Provence, cicadas, or cigales as they are referred to in French, dramatically announce their return, filling the air with their distinctive melody.

According to Provençal folklore, the cicada was sent by God to rouse peasants from their afternoon siestas to prevent them from becoming too lazy.

The plan backfired.

Cicadas have been featured in literature since ancient times. Greek poets were compelled to write odes to them. To them, cicadas symbolized death and rebirth, due to the bugs’ mysterious life cycle. Cicadas spend their nymph stage underground, and classical poets likely observed species that buried themselves for two to five years before emerging from the earth.

Only the male cicada “sings,” prompting the Ancient Greek poet Xenophon to quip: “Blessed are the cicadas, for they have voiceless wives.”

Only the male cicada “sings,” prompting the Ancient Greek poet Xenophon to quip: “Blessed are the cicadas, for they have voiceless wives.”

When the air reaches the right temperature — 77ºF — masses of male cicadas will stridently whine or serenade female cicadas; the females do not sing. For those more poetically inclined, each sings in unison by rapidly vibrating their tymbal, a thin membrane with thickened ribs located on each side of its abdomen. Because the abdomen is mostly hollow, it acts as a resonance chamber that amplifies the sound and broadcasts up to mile away. The din is the loudest of all insect-produced sounds.

In Phaedrus, Plato muses that cicadas were once men who became so enraptured by music, they forgot to eat and drink, and their bodies wasted away

In Phaedrus, Plato muses that cicadas were once men who became so enraptured by music, they forgot to eat and drink, and their bodies wasted away

According to Provençal folklore, the cicada was sent by God to rouse peasants from their afternoon siestas on hot summer days and prevent them from becoming too lazy. The plan backfired: Instead of being disturbed by the cicada, the peasants found the sound of their buzzing relaxing, which in turn lulled them to sleep.

There is a Provençal expression: Il ne fait pas bon de travailler quand la cigale chante, or “It’s not good to work when the cicada is singing.”

Jean de la Fontaine’s story “The Cicada and the Ant” is based on one of Aesop’s famous fables

Jean de la Fontaine’s story “The Cicada and the Ant” is based on one of Aesop’s famous fables

Jean de la Fontaine wrote the fable “La Cigale et la Fourmi” (“The Cicada and the Ant”) in 1668, an interpretation inspired by Aesop’s “The Ant and the Grasshopper.” In the story, the cicada passes the glorious days of summer consumed in song, while the industrious ant forages and stores food for the winter to come.

The ant works industriously all summer long, while the cicada lazes about singing. Guess who’s caught off-guard when winter arrives?

The ant works industriously all summer long, while the cicada lazes about singing. Guess who’s caught off-guard when winter arrives?

In 1854, together with six other local writers, Frédéric Mistral formed the Félibrige, a literary society to preserve the Provençal language and customs of Southern France. He coined the phrase, “Lou soulei mi fa canta,” Provençal for “the sun makes me sing,” usually accompanied by an illustration of a cicada.

A ceramicist from the Aubagne town of Provence, Louis Sicard, was asked by a wealthy tile manufacturer in 1895 to come up with a small keepsake gift symbolizing Provence for the man to give to his business clients. Inspired by the poets of the Félibrige, Sicard designed and created a paperweight with a cicada sitting on an olive branch bearing Mistral's epigram “Lou soulei mi fa canta,” earning himself the nickname “the Father of the Cicadas.”

If you startle a cicada, it might emit a spray of piss, prompting Provençal peasants of the past to thread the insects on a string, hang them up to dry and then boil their bodies into a tisane to cure urinary tract ailments

If you startle a cicada, it might emit a spray of piss, prompting Provençal peasants of the past to thread the insects on a string, hang them up to dry and then boil their bodies into a tisane to cure urinary tract ailments

The people of Provence adopted the noisy critters as their mascot, and the motif made its way into everything from regional fabrics to pottery displayed proudly outside Provençal homes. Like horseshoes or four leaf clovers, they’re regarded as good luck charms, and seem to burrow their way into many a tourist’s suitcase. In fact, we purchased a wrought-iron cicada trivet at the Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market and a bunch of perfumed ceramic cicadas at the Aix tourist center as souvenirs and gifts. –Duke

Where to Eat and Shop in Cassis

Spend a charming day wandering this pretty Provence port — and pick up a bottle of crème de cassis and marc while you’re at it.

Book a tour of the calanques, then spend the afternoon in lovely Cassis

Book a tour of the calanques, then spend the afternoon in lovely Cassis

Built on a hillside, the 17-century medieval town of Cassis, in the South of France, is clustered around a harbor shaped like a crescent (or, one might say croissant). Many of the buildings have beautifully weathered shutters and the town’s warren of charming narrow streets are lined with cafés, restaurants, shops and residences easily accessible by foot, or à pied as the French say.

The lighthouse marks the entrance to the Port of Cassis — one of the best-kept secrets in the South of France

The lighthouse marks the entrance to the Port of Cassis — one of the best-kept secrets in the South of France

C’est la vie, as they say — life follows a different schedule in Provence and even more so in a seaside town.
With such a picturesque port and beautiful weather, you’ll want to dine al fresco

With such a picturesque port and beautiful weather, you’ll want to dine al fresco

Time for Lunch

After our afternoon excursion on the Mediterranean touring the white cliffsides known as calanques, the Shirl, Dave, Wally and I had worked up an appetite and decided to have lunch on the seaside terrace of the Marco Polo Restaurant.

Watch the boats come and go in the harbor as you wander this adorable ville

Watch the boats come and go in the harbor as you wander this adorable ville

What appeared to be a regular diner was enjoying his meal near the entrance to the restaurant. When he finished, he lit a cigar. A waitress drizzled water across his lap and told him to put it out. When he refused, she threatened to pour a full glass over his head — and he finally acquiesced.
Each of us ordered the Marco Polo salad. The mixed greens included shredded chicken, Granny Smith apple slices, Belgian endives, cherry tomatoes, kernels of corn and a light mustard dressing. We all enjoyed them — a nice light break from all the fromage and cured saucissons.

Food, drink and shopping in a pretty Provençal port town

Food, drink and shopping in a pretty Provençal port town

Wally and I also ordered Kir Royales, champagne with the addition of the syrupy blackcurrant apéritif liqueur crème de cassis.

As an interesting aside, the Provençal region is known for rosé and Sauvignon Blanc — not crème de cassis, which is a specialty of the Burgundy region.

 

Le Marco Polo
4, place Mirabeau


This chien has the right idea — Cassis has a laidback vibe

This chien has the right idea — Cassis has a laidback vibe

Time to Shop

Should you decide to wander the streets of Cassis after lunch (and you really should), there are plenty of shops and boutiques to whet your appetite, offering local wares — but you may find many of them closed. Shops close up to three hours for lunch between 12 to 3 p.m.

The streets are narrow, rounded and lined with brightly colored buildings — some of which are striped!

The streets are narrow, rounded and lined with brightly colored buildings — some of which are striped!

One shop in particular that piqued our interest, the Cassis-Provence shop, allegedly resumed business at 2 p.m., but didn’t unlock its doors until 2:45 p.m. (We know cuz we kept checking back, we were so eager to get inside.) C’est la vie, as they say — life follows a different schedule in Provence and even more so in a seaside town.

Climbing flowers and bright colors are at the heart of Cassis’ appeal

Climbing flowers and bright colors are at the heart of Cassis’ appeal

The shop proprietor was wearing a voluminous pink cotton candy cloud of a dress which made her look like doll, earning her Wally’s fitting nickname Madame Poupée.

A Cassis courtyard

A Cassis courtyard

We purchased the following from this well-stocked shop, which featured wines, aperitifs and olive oil:

Wally’s mère became obsessed with this blue door — it represented everything she loves about Provence

Wally’s mère became obsessed with this blue door — it represented everything she loves about Provence

  • Margier extra virgin olive oil

  • Garlaban marc (a digestif Mme Poupée told us is a local specialty and drunk after every meal)

  • Crème de cassis

  • Château de Fontcreuse rosé

  • La Cagole (une bière blanche, or white beer, which Wally and I realized is our favorite type of beer)

Cassis Provence
9, rue Brémond


It’s tough to take a bad picture of the narrow rainbow-hued shops and apartments with boats out front

It’s tough to take a bad picture of the narrow rainbow-hued shops and apartments with boats out front

Cassis remains a friendly, unspoiled spot on the Mediterranean coast, where you can easily spend a relaxing sun-soaked afternoon enjoying the picturesque landscape and tasty food in an enchanting Provençal village. –Duke

The Gorgeous Calanques of Cassis

Calanque Port-Miou, Calanque Port-Pin and Calanque d’En-Vau: The French Riviera limestone cliffs provide a picturesque day trip if you’re in Provence.

The Port of Cassis on the French Riviera, with its pretty backdrop of the limestone cliffs called calanques

The Port of Cassis on the French Riviera, with its pretty backdrop of the limestone cliffs called calanques

It may be difficult to imagine taking time away from the idyllic town of Aix-en-Provence, France. However, not far from its leafy boulevards and gurgling fountains, the laidback coastal fishing village of Cassis, located between Marseilles and Bandol, makes for an ideal day trip.

Wally’s mom, affectionately referred to as “The Shirl” had brought and read about the Calanques of Cassis, white limestone cliffs at the water’s edge, in Rick Steves’ Provence & The French Riviera travel guide. So I suppose, in a way, we have Mr. Steves to thank for our excursion.

Limestone from the calanques of Cassis was used to build the Suez Canal as well as the base of the Statue of Liberty.
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How to Get There

The four of us set off for Cassis and took the train from the Aix-en-Provence TGV railway station to Marseille. At the Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles, we purchased tickets to the Gare de Toulon train station, about 15.5 miles southeast of Marseille.

Once in Toulon, we boarded a bus that twisted and wound its way down a steep hillside until we arrived at the Port of Cassis.

Wally’s dad, Duke, Wally and the infamous Shirl on their boat excursion to see the calanques

Wally’s dad, Duke, Wally and the infamous Shirl on their boat excursion to see the calanques

The Calanques

Chartered boat tours are available for different durations. You can visit the first three in a 45-minute trip, or go as far as all nine in one and a half hours.

We opted for the 45 minute excursion, which included Port-Miou, Port-Pin and d’En-Vau.

The name of our boat was Le Calendal, a small vessel that holds a maximum of 12 people.

On our voyage, we met and struck up a conversation with a charming au pair from Düsseldorf, Germany named Alexandra.

Wally with his new acquaintance, a German au pair

Wally with his new acquaintance, a German au pair

As our boat departed the harbor, our captain, Didier Crespi, pointed out the 14th-century fortress, Château de Cassis, built atop a cliff that juts out into the Mediterranean. Converted into a luxury hotel, the grounds are not open to the public, but should you wish to see them, you can book a junior suite for $350, or opt for the Chloe Suite, with a private terrace overlooking the azure waters of the Cote D'Azur for $690.

We passed the remains of a ruined quarry building on Pointe Cacau near the Calanque of Port-Miou.

The struggle of nature: Water wears away at the cliffs while plant life somehow finds a way to take hold

The struggle of nature: Water wears away at the cliffs while plant life somehow finds a way to take hold

The craggy limestone formations are dotted with pine and juniper trees that have taken root and grow in minimal soil amongst the cracks and crevices.

The remains of a limestone quarry, a popular building material and primary export for the town

The remains of a limestone quarry, a popular building material and primary export for the town

Captain Crespi told us that white limestone was the primary export of Cassis and provided the natural building material used to construct quays in major port cities from Alexandria to Algiers, as well as the channel walls of the Suez Canal, connecting the Mediterranean with the Red Sea. This same stone was even used to create the base for the Statue of Liberty.

You can kayak, hike to a hidden beach, risk your life rock-climbing — or you can just take it all in on a boat excursion

You can kayak, hike to a hidden beach, risk your life rock-climbing — or you can just take it all in on a boat excursion

Le Capitaine dropped anchor in the sheltered crystalline inlet of the Calanque d’En Vau. The sea was a brilliant blue and shimmered like liquid glass. A school of silver-skinned fish paused at the side of our boat as if they were accustomed to our captain’s comings and goings. He threw them some pieces of bread, which they excitedly nibbled at.

On our return to the harbor, we passed a restaurant perched atop the calanques that makes pastis, an anise-flavored spirit and aperitif.

From the water, we could see people relaxing on small private beaches (some of them nude), fishing and hiking. We even saw a rock climber scaling the face of a cliff while we moored.

The landscape was stunning and we all enjoyed our sunny afternoon on the water. –Duke

20 Best Instagram Photos of 2016

You saw, you liked. Here are our best-rated travel photos on Instagram of last year.

 

Looking back, 2016 taught me the importance of staying connected to friends near and far. Seeking new perspectives to overcome hurdles and nurturing the labor of love Wally and I call the Not So Innocents Abroad.

Our hope is to share our experiences of other cities and other cultures. Whether exploring the unusual 161-year-old Dhundiraj Ganpati Mandir wooden Hindu temple in Baroda, India or asking our friends abroad to vocalize how they felt about the polarizing effects of the American election, we’re grateful for the role you’ve played and look forward to welcoming a year filled with optimism and new adventures.

 

Choose Your Own Adventure

As the old adage goes, “a picture is worth a thousand words.” Predicting what makes one image more engaging than another can be difficult to determine and often, like art, is simply subjective.

From amazing destinations that include Cambodia, France, India and Morocco, here’s a look back at our most popular Instagrams of last year.

Follow us on Instagram — and be a part of the action! –Duke

1. If Aix-en-Provence, France doesn’t charm you with its markets, food and architecture, there is no shortage of magnificent elaborately hand-carved entry doors to look at.

2. The beautiful Italianate courtyard outside the Darbar Hall at Laxmi Vilas Palace in Vadodara, India.

3. Deco Darling. Tucked away in the Fès Medina, Morocco, is the beautiful Palais Amani. Originally owned by a prominent Fassi family of merchants, the majority of the residence was rebuilt in the Art Deco style after a landslide badly damaged the 17th century property.

4. The Café St. Regis was one of our favorite spots to enjoy breakfast when we visited Paris, France.

5. The façade of Notre Dame in Paris has many interesting details, but perhaps none as unique as the sculpture in the left portal holding his head. The statue is of St. Denis, said to have picked his head up after being decapitated and walked six miles, while preaching a sermon of repentance the entire way. If it takes me 45 minutes on the treadmill at 6 miles per hour, he would have walked an hour plus!

6. Both covered and open-air, the green metal pavilions from the 1900s form the charming flower market located on Place Louis Lépine in Paris, between the Notre Dame Cathedral and Sainte Chapelle chapel.

7. A view of the magnificent Rajon Ki Baoli stepwell in Delhi, India, built by Daulat Khan during the reign of Sikandar Lodi in 1516. Chambers located behind the arch-shaped niches once provided respite from the heat and a place for patrons to socialize.

8. One of the splendid staircases with its elegant wrought-iron railing inside the 18th century Hotel d’Albertas mansion in Aix-en-Provence, France. Embellishments such as these were a sign of family wealth intended to call out the social status of the owner.

9. Neptune wielding a trident riding on a fish by sculptor André Massoule on the Beaux-Arts Pont Alexandre III in Paris. A marvel of 19th century engineering, this bridge consists of a 20-foot-high single-span steel arch.

10. Musical Chairs. I was awestruck by the hypnotic symmetry of the rows of empty ladder-back chairs awaiting the devout at Saint Suplice in Paris. The ethereal Catholic church, located in the 6th arrondissement, is the second largest in Paris and it was in some movie called The Da Vinci Code. 😜

11. The enormous grooved stump of lime mortar and rubble masonry are all that remains of the unfinished Alai Minar in Delhi. The minaret was intended to rival the Qutb Minar in both size and scale, but was never completed.

12. Part of the Right Bank, this busy square located in Montmartre, Paris is known for its portrait artists and painters. During the Belle Époque, at the beginning of the 20th century, many artists, including Pablo Picasso, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Vincent van Gogh resided and worked here.

13. Fez was founded in 859 CE. The origin of the name is unknown. Some scholars believe it comes from the old Berber name of the Middle Atlas Mountains, Fazaz. Other stories trace the name back to a tale of a golden axe that divided the river of Fez into two halves. In Arabic, a fez is an axe.

14. Built by sculptor Jean-Claude Rambot and situated in the heart of the Mazarin district, the Fountain of the Four Dolphins in Aix supports an obelisk topped with a pineapple. We spent an afternoon here with our sketchbooks pretending we were bohemian artistes.

15. The stunning Angkor Wat temple, the largest religious monument in the world, was built by Khmer king Suryavarman II in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It’s a symbolic representation of Mount Meru, the Mount Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The complex has been in continuous use since it was built.

16. Benched. There is something beautiful in the patina of these benches in Aix Cathedral combined with the well-worn brick floor that has stood the test of time.

17. A Room With a View. Our grand suite at the Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur, India looked out onto the tranquil waters of Gaibsagar Lake, where the royal family’s private island temple dedicated to the Lord Shiva floats serenely.

18. Set in Stone. A white marble cenotaph lies at the center of Safdarjung’s tomb in Delhi.

19. Kittens and cats are a common sight among the streets of the Marrakech Medina in Morocco, indifferent to the activity around them. This little guy came to visit while we were sitting having coffee.

20. Louvre is in the air at Paris’ famous museum.