Discover Riad Rosemary Marrakech, Laurence Leenaert’s LRNCE-designed boutique riad near the Mellah, filled with hand-crafted ceramics and textiles.
The rooftop terrace features whimsical wrought iron Helios chairs and a tiled table adapted from one of Laurence Leenaert’s drawings.
When Wally and I began thinking about where to travel next, we found ourselves drawn back to Marrakech, the Red City, named for the salmon-colored rammed earth walls enclosing its maze of alleys, their blank façades broken only by wooden doors that suggest another world hidden just beyond them. We had visited in 2012 with our friend Vanessa and were curious to see how the city had changed and what remained from our previous trip.
On that visit, we had a digital camera, and after a three-day journey that included an overnight stay among the shifting sands of the Sahara, we discovered the memory card was “frite” (fried) and beyond repair. So the prospect of returning to a place that held such wonderful memories for a full week this time, was impossible to resist.
The courtyard is the heart of the riad, anchored by a magnificent 40-year-old jacaranda tree and home to the salon d’été, wavy terrazzo tiles, plunge pool, LRNCE boutique and living room.
Like Alice in Wonderland, I enjoy falling down the rabbithole, gathering sites for us to see as well as finding the perfect place to call home during our stay. This was how I discovered Rosemary, an intimate five-bedroom boutique riad built around a courtyard and interior garden, tucked into the quiet residential neighborhood of Riad Zitoun Jdid.
On the map, it sits in one of the oldest quarters of the southern medina, a stone’s throw from Bahia Palace and within walking distance of the souks and other sites we wanted to explore.
Leenaert and her husband, Ayoub Boualam, worked with dozens of craftsmen and women from Morocco to rework the interiors with bespoke furnishings and finishes, including zelije tiles and tadelakt, a natural lime-based plaster.
The riad was the former home of Rose-Marie, who happened to cross paths with Belgian artist and designer Laurence Leenaert and her husband and business partner, Ayoub Boualam, at their studio in Sidi Ghanem, an industrial area just outside Marrakech. She was looking to sell, and once the couple toured the space, its faded grandeur made the decision an easy one, and a logical next step in the brand’s evolution.
Leenaert is the founder of the lifestyle brand LRNCE, launched in 2013 and based in Marrakech, where she arrived with little more than a sewing machine and a few hundred euros. She originally specialized in small leather bags before evolving into an internationally recognized label known for its hand-painted ceramics, woven rugs, textiles, clothing and objects deeply rooted in Marrakech’s craft traditions.
Rosemary is a living extension of LRNCE’s aesthetic universe, immersing guests in Leenaert’s creative world rather than simply offering a glimpse of it.
Arriving at Rosemary
We remembered how easy it was to get lost in the medina, and while that’s part of the fun, we didn’t want to stress over being dropped at the edge of a narrow street and rolling our suitcases down it while navigating pedestrians, donkey carts and weaving mopeds. To avoid this, I prearranged pickup. We were met at the airport and transported to a dropoff point on Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid. There, one of Rosemary’s accommodating hosts welcomed us, took our bags, and led us down to 25 Rue de la Bahia.
Among the countless handcrafted details, sandstone has been fashioned into sculptural objects, including a chair, pedestal and table base, for the salon d’été.
We were seated at a banquette in the cozy salon d’été (summer salon) in the tranquil central courtyard shaded by a majestic jacaranda tree, and served mint tea and slices of housemade banana bread while we completed check-in.
Afterward, we were shown our room and given a tour. During our stay, the riad was hosting an event on the rooftop to promote the collaboration between LRNCE and Australian resort wear brand Alémais, and guests could also participate in craft events, including an intimate textile workshop the day before we departed.
The Clemande suite features a queen-sized bed, built-in shelving filled with hand-painted ceramics and found objects, including a goatskin lampshade.
The Rooms at Rosemary
I had booked the Cocoon suite on the second floor, which overlooks the central courtyard. In-room amenities include wifi, a preloaded iPad complete with a chill rooftop mix, a Sonos portable Bluetooth speaker and shelves lined with art books, along with a queen-sized bed, a bathroom with a stained glass window, a built-in bench with hand-embroidered throw pillows and a handcarved cedarwood sideboard with a marble top.
The Cocoon suite lives up to its name — a perfect retreat after a day spent haggling in the souks.
The Cocoon suite features a custom stained glass panel, sculptural lighting and a cozy bedroom.
A couple of days later, we were graciously upgraded to the Clemande suite and could hardly believe we had our very own private balcony. We spent most afternoons soaking our feet in the cool water of the plunge pool or relaxing up there.
A large painting of two octopuses by Belgian artist Lieven Deconinck hangs above the plunge pool where Duke and Wally spent many afternoons relaxing and soaking our tired feet.
The suite features a queen-size bed, built-in geometric shelving lined with art books, hand-painted ceramics and found objects, including a goatskin lampshade, plus a bathroom with a marble soaking tub and a striking tile mural painted by Leenaert.
The Clemande suite features a marble bathtub and hand-painted tile mural by Leenaertart.
And can we take a moment to talk about their toiletries? The hand soap, body wash, shampoo and silky body lotion are all scented with notes of neroli orange, rosemary and cedar atlas. We ended up buying some to take home.
The onsite boutique carries hand-painted ceramics, embroidered bed linens, toiletries and apparel.
The LRNCE Vision
Laurence and Ayoub’s vision respects the building’s pedigree, and the results are anything but typical. The property had previously been renovated by Belgian architect Quentin Wilbaux, who has spent decades documenting and restoring traditional riads throughout the medina and is widely regarded as one of the leading authorities on its architecture. The couple oversaw every aspect of the intensive three-year renovation, and collaborated with more than a few dozen maâlems, or master craftsmen, drawn from across Morocco’s specialized trades: stained-glass artisans from Meknès, potters from Safi, zellige tilemakers from Fès, marble vendors from Rabat, and a crew of local Marrakchi carpenters, metalworkers and plasterers who handled the riad’s finishes.
The hotel’s name is a nod to its previous owner as well as the herb used to perfume its in-house hammam.
Hand-painted plates by LRNCE and a vintage brass cobra sconce we coveted, found at the Bab el Khemis flea market
Each detail, from the spontaneous hand-drawn lines etched into the columns framing the plunge pool to the wrought iron door handles and red marble lozenges meticulously set into the staircase, contributes to a space that pulls you fully into Leenaert’s creative world. Her own works are complemented by vintage fixtures and furnishings sourced from their travels. Wally and I were obsessed with the vintage brass cobra wall sconces found throughout, and later learned they came from a seller at the Bab el Khemis flea market.
Located off the courtyard, the living room features built-in banquette, vintage furniture, and tiered shelves lined with art books, ceramics and objects by LRNCE.
Staying at Rosemary
Breakfast is served on the sun-drenched rooftop terrace, which is dotted with LRNCE designed tables, whimsical wrought iron chairs and sunloungers. The spread includes homemade yogurt, amlou (almond spread), honey, preserves, sticky date and sesame energy balls, mesemmen (semi-leavened bread), baghir (Moroccan semolina pancakes) and eggs made to order, served from terracotta tagines. The freshly squeezed orange juice is exceptional, as is the nous nous (“half-half” in Darija, Moroccan Arabic), a local café staple made with equal parts espresso and steamed milk.
The kitchen features hand-painted plates by Leenaert and mashrabiya-style cabinet doors.
Rosemary felt less like staying at a hotel and more like being welcomed into a dear friend’s home. The warmth and generosity of everyone who took care of us will not soon be forgotten. Once you check in, you may never want to leave.
An ornate traditional wrought iron grille looks out upon the interior courtyard.
If you happen to fall in love with the hand-crafted ceramics, linens, rugs or toiletries during your stay — and you will — the onsite LRNCE shop makes it easy to take a bit of Rosemary home with you. –Duke
The hand-carved cedarwood front door was adapted from Leenaert’s sketches, one of the first pieces created for Rosemary, and took over four months to complete.
Riad Rosemary
25 Rue de la Bahia
Marrakech 40000
Morocco


