Mexico City Travel Guide: Best Things to Do in CDMX, Neighborhoods & Itinerary

Everything you need to plan a Mexico City vacation, from where to stay and what to eat to museums, architecture, markets and hidden gems across CDMX.

Frida and Diego, err, Wally and Duke offer up this guide to CDMX.

I hesitate to write this guide. Sure, I could rave about Mexico City for days — but that’s exactly the problem. I don’t want it to get too popular. There’s something special about CDMX that feels like a secret, and every time someone returns, I ask, “Did you love it?” The answer is always a resounding yes. It’s a city with undeniable magic. But maybe it’s time we stop singing its praises quite so loudly before it gets overrun and loses its charm. (And it’s already well on its way, as the recent protests against expats and digital nomads, who have driven up rents and fast-tracked gentrification, can attest.)

For one thing, Mexico City is an embarrassment of riches, with enough history, art and culture to keep even the most seasoned traveler captivated for weeks on end. Like Paris, you can spend a week here and barely scratch the surface. With every neighborhood offering something unique — from the bohemian charm of Coyoacán to the vibrant streets of La Condesa — there’s an endless amount to explore.

To help you navigate this sprawling city, we’ve organized our guide by neighborhood, highlighting the best markets, museums, landmarks, restaurants and quirky spots that make CDMX unforgettable. Whether you’re hunting for artisan crafts, enjoying a peaceful moment at a museum, or getting a little creeped out at the Island of the Dead Dolls on the canals of Xochimilco, this guide will take you through the gems that make Mexico City one of the most thrilling destinations in the world. 

Just accept the fact that you’ll just have to pick the things that appeal to you the most, knowing that you can’t hit them all — and that you have a reason for coming back. 

Click on any of the links for deeper dives into these spots. 

Centro Histórico

Most Instagrammable Places in Centro

Our guide to the most Instagrammable spots in Mexico City’s Centro takes you through one of CDMX’s most photogenic neighborhoods, where colonial architecture, Art Nouveau landmarks and modern public art collide. Our self-guided photo tour begins at the Sinagoga Histórica, whose unassuming façade gives way to a stunning folk art-inspired sanctuary, before continuing to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, birthplace of the Mexican muralism movement. Along the way, stop for lunch on the rooftop at La Casa de las Sirenas, overlooking the Catedral Metropolitana and (unimpressive) Templo Mayor, then admire the cathedral’s lavish Baroque interior before wandering past the tiled façade of the Casa de los Azulejos.

Next, duck into the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México to marvel at its soaring stained-glass ceiling, then don’t miss the spectacular Palacio Postal, where twin gilded staircases and intricate brasswork make it one of the city’s most photogenic interiors. From there, cross to Sears for the iconic view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes dome before wrapping up with the Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez in Alameda Central and the striking red pyramids of Fuente de Vicente Rojo just across the street.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

From the outside, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is a stunning Art Nouveau dome-topped palace glowing across Centro Histórico; inside, it’s home to Mexico’s premier opera house, the National Museum of Architecture, and a renowned collection of murals that provoke as much as they awe. We first glimpsed its golden crown from across the street, taking in the best view from Sears department store. But on another visit, we dove into the heart of the building, to find that in the Palacio’s mural museum, Mexico’s famous large-scale artists — Rivera, Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros — don’t hold back.

Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe takes center stage, revisiting his controversial commission for the Rockefeller Center — destroyed for depicting Lenin. Here, Karl Marx and Charles Darwin rub shoulders. Meanwhile, Orozco’s Catharsis unleashes a dystopia where naked bodies and mechanical beasts clash, featuring the infamous La Chata, a grinning prostitute, who adds to the mural’s disturbing reputation. Each mural tells a story, whether it’s Siqueiros’ dream of Cuauhtémoc defeating the conquistadors or Rivera’s sly digs at White tourists and their clichés in Carnival of Mexican Life. The collection is edgy and bold, and it’s impossible to walk away without feeling like the walls just had the last word.

Monumento a la Revolución

The Monument to the Revolution is a triumphal arch with some serious swagger. Originally destined to be the Palacio Legislativo Federal, the grand project was abandoned when the Mexican Revolution took center stage. For two decades, the half-built structure just sat there, rusting away. But then architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia had a better idea: turn that mess into a towering 220-foot icon, now the tallest triumphal arch in the world. Take that, Arc de Triomphe!

Today, the monument wears many hats: mausoleum, observation deck and revolutionary museum, with a little copper-clad cupola action thrown in for good measure. The glass elevator ride up the center is worth it for the views alone, but the exposed steel innards are also worth checking out. 

Meanwhile, down below, the National Museum of the Revolution does its best to impress with its “avant-garde” exhibits (we’ll take their word for it). 

Outside, the Plaza de la República buzzes with vendors selling everything from T-shirts to street snacks, and the sunken garden gives you a breather from the city’s chaos.

Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Castle

A castle in the middle of Mexico City? Yes, really — perched atop Chapultepec Hill, this once-imperial palace is now a museum, a monument and a mood. From its sweeping views to its storybook staircases, Chapultepec Castle delivers drama at every turn.

On our visit, we followed the winding hilltop path, dodging packs of schoolchildren to reach the gates. Once inside, things get surreal. French chandeliers, trompe-l’œil ceilings, and checkerboard floors speak to its time as Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota’s royal residence, when the castle played dress-up as a European palace. And don’t miss the stained glass gallery of Muses and the rooftop garden.

The castle also houses the National Museum of History — and the exhibits remind you that while emperors played house, revolutionaries were gearing up to take it all down. Cases hold Aztec codices, colonial relics and revolutionary banners. It’s a crash course in Mexico’s past, where empires rose, ideals clashed, and the culture kept reinventing itself.

Museo Nacional de Antropología

The museum doesn’t wait until the galleries to wow you — its massive umbrella fountain out front rains spectacle on everyone walking in. Inside, soaring halls hold colossal Olmec heads, Aztec sun stones and Maya stelae — alongside delicate figurines that speak to everyday life. Every gallery plunges you deeper into the civilizations that shaped Mexico long before the Spanish arrived. My favorite part: Various galleries lead outside, where you feel like you’ve stumbled into the jungle and discovered an ancient temple and artifacts.

Another highlight? The way animals come to life in pottery and sculpture, each one symbolizing something sacred, fierce or divine. Here’s what we uncovered about animal symbolism in pre-Columbian pottery.

And if you’re drawn to the darker corners of history, don’t miss the exhibits on burial rituals and offerings. From jade beads in the mouths of the dead to xolo dogs sacrificed as guides to the afterlife, the museum doesn’t shy away from the raw power of the death cults of Ancient Mexico.

La Condesa

Morning in La Condesa

Start your morning in La Condesa, where Avenida Amsterdam’s tree-lined oval leads you past Art Deco gems and green spaces that feel worlds away from the city’s hustle. The avenue’s curving path traces the outline of an old racetrack. As you stroll, keep an eye out for the architectural detail: Streamline Moderne façades and stylish mansions make every turn a feast for the eyes.

For breakfast, we recommend Frëims, tucked inside a renovated 1920s home. The sun-drenched patio is perfect for savoring a coffee or one of their fresh juice blends, while admiring the mural. Fuel up on something like the lemon ricotta pancakes or huevos benedictinos, then take a leisurely walk over to Parque México. This green space, once home to an elite jockey club, now offers a mix of dog walkers, skaters and public art, like the Fountain of the Pitchers, which immortalizes Luz Jiménez as the iconic indigenous beauty of the 1920s. Whether you’re there for a stroll or just people-watching, La Condesa’s vibe is pure magic.

Where to stay in La Condesa

Octavia Casa

Octavia Casa is where minimalist design meets boutique charm, offering a chic retreat from the mellow bustle of La Condesa. The hotel’s teak lattice façade and the tropical plants spilling out over the concrete and glass exterior provide a touch of nature in the urban landscape. It’s a natural extension of the Octavia fashion brand, with spaces inspired by the label’s understated style, brought to life through thoughtful details like chukum stucco walls and muted earth tones that give each room an airy, welcoming vibe.

Mornings begin with a breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, pastries and handmade mugs. The staff go above and beyond, from a surprise birthday bottle of wine to Silvia’s heartfelt hugs. Evenings bring a different ambiance, with candlelight and libations on offer, perfect for winding down after a day of exploring CDMX. It’s hard not to feel special here, especially when you happen to be sharing the space with stars like Natalia Lafourcade.

Where to eat in La Condesa

Ojo de Agua

Ojo de Agua in La Condesa is where health-conscious meets delicious. Situated near the lush Avenida Amsterdam and Plaza Citaltépetl, this fast casual café has a bright, fresh vibe and a fruit stand right inside. Named after a Michoacán town, the restaurant channels a commitment to living well, celebrating fresh ingredients in dishes that don’t skimp on flavor. The interior is casual chic, with Mudéjar-style tiles, big windows and plenty of natural light, while the outdoor seating is perfect for soaking up the neighborhood’s morning buzz.

The menu has something for everyone, from açaí bowls to cinnamon roll French toast, but we couldn’t resist the savory options. The santos ahogados, with its poached eggs, grilled panela and two salsas over a heart-shaped hoja santa leaf, brought a rich balance of flavors, while the huevos Polanco paired eggs with avocado purée and a za’atar-spiced jocoque. With Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” playing in the background and fresh juice from the bar to finish things off, Ojo de Agua left us feeling fully satisfied and ready to take on CDMX.

Roma

Where to stay in Roma

Ignacia Guest House

Ignacia Guest House in Colonia Roma is a sophisticated blend of historic charm and modern elegance, tucked away in one of Mexico City’s most picturesque neighborhoods. The meticulously restored 1913 mansion captures the spirit of the area with its Neoclassical and Art Nouveau touches, while the modern wing adds a sleek contrast of glass and steel. Named after the beloved housekeeper who spent more than 70 years living and working in the home, Ignacia’s story is woven into every detail, from the Oaxacan cactus garden she planted to the woodcut portraits of her displayed in the lobby. We stayed in the Azul suite, which features reclaimed bowling alley maple floors and Carrara marble bathroom fixtures, providing the perfect mix of rustic and luxe.

The daily breakfast menu, crafted from Ignacia’s original recipes, offers a delicious start to the day, complete with fresh pastries and locally sourced ingredients. We especially loved the cocktail hour, where we sampled mezcal-infused drinks with sal de gusano (worm salt) and even tried crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) — because when in Rome… or, Roma. The courtyard patio is a central hub for socializing, shaded by ivy-covered walls and overlooked by the glass corridor that connects the new and old buildings. As much as the architecture and gardens enchanted us, it was the warm and welcoming staff who truly made us feel at home. 

Coyoacán

Wandering Coyoacán

An afternoon in Coyoacán offers a perfect mix of history, culture and a bit of boho chic. Start in Plaza Hidalgo, where the Fuente de los Coyotes splashes in the heart of a classic colonial square, and balloon vendors and palm-leaf crickets are part of the scene. Nearby, Los Danzantes serves up dishes like cricket croquetas and mezcal cocktails, perfect for people-watching while soaking up the bohemian vibe.

Wander into the Mercado Artesanal Mexicano for quirky souvenirs like Oaxacan alebrijes or oddball folk art, then recharge at Panadería Pública with a coffee and a guava pastry. Just a short stroll away, Plaza de la Conchita offers a quiet escape, where the 16th century chapel holds stories of Hernán Cortés’ time in the neighborhood. Finish at Frida Kahlo Park, where topiary animals greet you and teenagers practice salsa moves under bougainvilleas, and a mural by Dan Silva adds a burst of color. Coyoacán’s charm is irresistible, making it easy to see why artists and dreamers have called it home.

La Casa Azul: The Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul, or the Frida Kahlo Museum, is as bold and layered as the artist herself, with its vibrant cobalt walls and eclectic blend of art, artifacts, and personal relics. The iconic blue-painted house in Coyoacán offers a glimpse into the world of Frida and Diego Rivera, where the bohemian spirit comes alive in the courtyard’s botanical garden and the interiors filled with papel picado, Tehuana dresses, and intricate folk art. We recommend booking tickets well in advance and arriving early to avoid the hours-long wait; it’s worth it to step inside this iconic space where Kahlo’s personality radiates from every corner.

From her wheelchair and easel to her night bed with a mirror overhead—where she painted while bedridden—La Casa Azul tells the story of an artist who turned pain into beauty. The house is filled with fascinating details, like the miniature clay mugs spelling out “Frida” and “Diego” above the stove, or the ashes resting in a pre-Columbian urn beside her bed. Beyond the personal spaces, you’ll find rooms with her lesser-known artworks, a display of her distinctive wardrobe, and even a pyramid of pre-Columbian sculptures Rivera added to the garden. The whole experience leaves a lasting impression, as if you’ve walked through the pages of Frida’s life story, with every object and plant bearing witness to her creative and resilient spirit.

Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Parroquia San Juan Bautista, or La Iglesia de Coyoacán, is a captivating piece of Spanish colonial history nestled in Mexico City’s bohemian Coyoacán neighborhood. Built between 1527 and 1552 on the site of an Aztec noble school, the church’s relatively plain Herrerian-style exterior belies the ornate Baroque splendor within. Step inside, and you’re greeted by gilded altars, frescoed ceilings depicting Christ’s life, and an array of small chapels, including the opulent Chapel of the Rosary.

The church is full of fascinating details, from the creepy yet compelling Cristo de los Milagros, adorned with healing charms, to niche statues and elaborate ornamentation that evoke Mexico’s blend of indigenous and Catholic traditions. Don’t miss wandering the peaceful cloisters out back, where Nahuatl-speaking converts were once baptized. La Iglesia de Coyoacán is not just a church; it’s a glimpse into the neighborhood’s layered history and enduring cultural richness. Read more here.

Museo Anahuacalli

The Anahuacalli Museum is unlike any other—a temple-like structure housing Diego Rivera’s vast collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts. Built on the rugged volcanic rock of El Pedregal, this black basalt museum rises like a Mesoamerican pyramid, surrounded by myth and history. Rivera envisioned it as a place to contemplate Mexico’s ancient past, with over 50,000 artifacts collected over his lifetime, though only a fraction is displayed. The museum’s dim and cool interior, lit by alabaster windows, creates an otherworldly atmosphere, while colorful ofrendas and papier-mâché alebrijes burst against the stone.

Inside, narrow staircases lead you up through galleries filled with Zapotec, Maya, Aztec, and Olmec relics, culminating in Rivera’s art studio on the sunlit second floor, where you can see studies for his controversial murals. The rooftop terrace offers a stark contrast to the dark confines below, with panoramic views of CDMX. Rivera’s passion for the past comes to life here, where mythological mosaics, jaguar statues, and Mesoamerican symbolism honor Mexico’s ancient heritage. It’s an unforgettable experience that feels as much like stepping into a temple as it does a museum.

San Ángel

Bazar Sábado

The Bazar Sábado in San Ángel is a Saturday-only spectacle that fills the historic streets with artisans, craft stalls, and cultural treasures. The cobblestone lanes and colonial architecture set the scene for browsing unique wares, from vivid alebrijes and handpainted ceramics to quirky Day of the Dead memorabilia. Founded in 1960, the bazaar has grown into a beloved tradition, with its epicenter located in a central courtyard where you can also grab a bite or sip a local craft brew, like a Monstruo de Agua beer—a must-try for its unusual ingredients and axolotl-themed branding.

Though the market can get busy, a friendly “con permiso” helps you navigate the crowded stalls. Don’t miss browsing nearby shops like Cerámica San Germán, where the traditional meets the artistic, or grabbing a molcajete for your guacamole needs. The cupolas of Nuestra Señora del Carmen loom overhead, hinting at San Ángel’s rich history, complete with mummies and macabre relics in the crypt below. Whether you’re drawn to crafts, ceramics, or quirky curiosities, Bazar Sábado promises a vibrant and eclectic day out in CDMX’s most enchanting neighborhood.

Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel is a captivating glimpse into Colonial Baroque architecture, with its faded domes tiled in vibrant patterns and gilded altarpiece that balances opulence with austerity. The church was founded for the Discalced Carmelites, a curious order known for their vow of shoelessness, established in the 16th century by Saint Teresa of Avila. Its history stretches back to the early 1600s, and the Carmen Complex encompasses more than just the church itself—it’s a former monastery and convent, now a museum where you can even find mummies lurking in the catacombs.

The church’s story doesn’t shy away from drama. After the War of Reform, when Mexico’s Liberal forces stripped the Catholic Church of its vast properties, parts of the complex were repurposed into everything from prisons to barracks. Today, the ornate interior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen stands in contrast to its unassuming façade, offering plenty to explore, from offshoot chapels to quiet corners for reflection. Whether you’re there for the architecture or just trying to catch a glimpse of those creepy mummies, this church is a must-see when wandering through the historic, tree-lined streets of San Ángel.

Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio House

While most visitors flock to Casa Azul—and rightly so—the duo’s other home in San Ángel offers a quieter, more architectural glimpse into their tangled lives. Designed by Juan O’Gorman in bold modernist style, the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo features two separate houses: one bright and spacious for Diego, the other small and cramped for Frida. Connected only by an outdoor stairwell and a narrow bridge, it’s a layout that feels like a metaphor—and a bit of a slap. Frida, who lived with chronic pain and mobility issues, had to climb steep steps just to see her husband.

Inside, Diego’s studio is full of light, murals-in-progress, and towering papier-mâché figures. Frida’s space is noticeably more austere—tight, plain, and edged with a kind of imposed solitude. If Casa Azul is where she found comfort, this house whispers of compromise.

Architectural Marvels in CDMX

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a must-see, offering an otherworldly experience in the Buenavista neighborhood of Mexico City. Designed by Alberto Kalach, the library’s floating metal and glass bookshelves create an intricate, maze-like space that seems to defy gravity. From the moment you step inside, it’s like entering a cathedral of knowledge, with sunlight streaming through louvered panels, casting an ethereal glow on the translucent walkways. The sensation is thrilling—and a little terrifying—as you navigate the thin, steel-framed floors that hover above the atrium.

Adding to the library’s allure is Gabriel Orozco’s “Mobile Matrix,” a mesmerizing installation featuring the skeleton of a gray whale, its bones intricately etched with thousands of mechanical pencil circles. Suspended mid-air, the piece echoes the library’s daring design, blurring the line between museum and reading space. After soaking in the modern architecture and art, venture into the surrounding botanic park for a breath of fresh air, or take a short walk to explore the nearby Kiosco Morisco, a colorful pavilion that serves as the perfect counterpoint to the library’s futuristic vibe.

Kiosko Morisco

Kiosko Morisco, tucked away in the charming neighborhood of Santa María la Ribera, is a hidden gem with a fascinating past. This 19th-century Moorish-style pavilion, designed by José Ramón Ibarrola, was originally built for the 1884 World’s Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition in New Orleans. After its star turn on the world stage, the pavilion was relocated to Mexico City, where it has since become a beloved part of the local landscape. Featuring ornate arches, slender columns, and a striking bronze eagle devouring a snake atop the dome, this architectural wonder reflects Mexico’s rich cultural history with a touch of Spanish flair.

Now sitting proudly at the center of the Alameda de Santa María park, the Kiosko Morisco draws visitors with its vibrant colors, elegant design, and relaxed atmosphere. Whether you’re watching locals dance salsa beneath its arches or simply soaking in the beauty of its intricate patterns, this pavilion offers a glimpse into Mexico City’s storied past. Stop by for a leisurely afternoon and take in the beauty of this remarkable relic while exploring the laid-back barrio that surrounds it.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco’s canals are a surreal slice of Aztec history in modern-day CDMX, where colorful trajineras glide past floating gardens called chinampas. Renting one of these vibrant boats is like having your own portable party—complete with a long table for snacks and drinks. We kicked off our trip at Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, perfect for accessing the infamous Isla de las Muñecas, where eerie dolls dangle from trees to appease a young girl’s restless spirit.

Cruising these ancient waterways, you’ll encounter everything from floating food vendors selling quesadillas to impromptu mariachi performances. The early hours are ideal for beating the crowds, but brace yourself for the chaotic boat traffic as the day goes on. It’s a magical and slightly macabre experience that brings the rich history and quirky charm of Xochimilco to life. 

The Island of the Dead Dolls

Just south of Mexico City in the Xochimilco canals lies la Isla de las Muñecas aka the Island of the Dead Dolls, an unsettling attraction draped in local legend. It’s said that a little girl drowned there under mysterious circumstances, and the island’s caretaker, Don Julián Santana Barrera, began hanging dolls he found floating in the canal to appease her restless spirit. Over the years, he amassed a bizarre collection of dolls, many decayed and missing limbs, creating a macabre shrine to the lost soul. In 2001, Don Julián himself drowned in the very spot where he had found the girl’s body.

When we visited, we couldn’t resist adding our own contribution to the legend. We brought a doll from Chicago and placed it on a toy car under a bower on the island. It’s now known as “la negrita en el carro,” one of only two foreign dolls on the island. Be sure to keep an eye out for her when you visit!

La Isla de las Muñecas is one of the eeriest destinations in CDMX and a must-see for fans of the supernatural and strange. Tours from Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas offer a closer island option, while the original site takes around four hours round-trip. Don’t forget to bring a doll of your own as an offering!

Nearby 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

NOTE: Sadly, a familial dispute has led to the (hopefully temporary) closure of the Museo Dolores Olmedo. When last we heard, it was set to reopen in 2026. Say a little prayer to Santa Frida — this is an amazing excursion that should be open to the public. 

The Museo Dolores Olmedo is an enchanting oasis that merges art, history, and whimsy on a sprawling 16th-century hacienda in Xochimilco. From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted by flocks of peacocks roaming the lush grounds, strutting their iridescent feathers like they own the place. The estate itself is worth the visit, with its colonial charm and gardens of dahlias, agaves, and bougainvilleas, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of old Mexico. But it’s not all just eye candy—the museum also houses the largest private collection of Diego Rivera’s work, plus several pieces by Frida Kahlo, including her distinctive small-format paintings and traditional Tehuana dress.

Inside, Rivera’s masterpieces span multiple rooms, showcasing his evolution from post-Impressionism to Cubism, while Olmedo’s pre-Columbian collection adds a layer of ancient mystique, with Colima dog effigies that once guided spirits through the Aztec underworld. The hacienda’s playful side shines through in the Day of the Dead ofrendas, where traditional and modern elements blend seamlessly, reflecting Olmedo’s inventive spirit. Don’t forget to swing by the Xoloitzcuintli enclosure, home to the adorably odd Mexican hairless dogs that roam the grounds like living relics. Whether you’re an art lover, history buff, or just here for the peacocks, the Museo Dolores Olmedo will surprise and charm you at every turn.

Barragán Architecture Tour

Luis Barragán (1902–1988) didn’t just design buildings—he created spaces that stirred the soul. A poetic modernist and the only Mexican architect to win the Pritzker Prize, Barragán took the clean lines of European architecture and infused them with color, silence, shadow, and stillness. His homes, fountains, and public works reflect a love of introspection and nature—a legacy that’s best experienced in person.

To really understand Barragán, we recommend booking a tour with the Traveling Beetle, which took us from city outskirts to surreal spaces, all in a tomato-red VW bus. 

Torres de Satélite

You’ll spot them first from the freeway—five towering columns in blue, red, yellow, and white. These are the Torres de Satélite, co-designed with sculptor Mathias Goeritz, and they mark the edge of a planned community that never quite came to be. But the towers endure, bold and mysterious, like sentinels from another dimension. They aren’t just monuments—they’re Barragán’s modernist exclamation point.

Fuente de los Amantes

Hidden in a quiet corner of the San Cristóbal subdivision, the Fuente de los Amantes (Lovers’ Fountain) speaks in whispers. The aqueduct releases water once a day into the rectangular basin below, where two simple stone figures sit—one gazing, the other waiting. It’s classic Barragán: deceptively simple, achingly emotional. A place to contemplate connection, longing, and the kind of love that waits in silence.

Cuadra San Cristóbal

This is the showstopper. From the outside, Cuadra San Cristóbal feels like a fortress—flat pink walls, geometric cutouts, no hint of what’s inside. But step into the courtyard and it unfolds like a fever dream: a long pink wall set against cobalt pools, fountains built for horses, and trees erupting through carefully placed openings. It’s the kind of space that doesn’t just look beautiful—it makes you feel something. Even the horses seem to know they’re walking through art.

Paseo de los Gigantes and Plaza del Bebedero

The name Paseo de los Gigantes isn’t a metaphor, it’s literal. Those majestic, gnarled eucalyptus trees — unyielding and grand — are the giants the path is named for. Once part of a glamorous social scene where Barragán hosted horsing events, today the park feels forgotten — overgrown, faded — but no less haunting. From their bark to their scale, the trees still command attention. As you continue, you reach the Plaza del Bebedero, anchored by a long, empty horse trough fountain and framed by stark white and indigo walls where light and shadow play like whispered memories of its past.

Best Restaurants in CDMX

Masala y Maíz

Masala y Maíz serves one of the most memorable meals we've had anywhere in the world. The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant blends Mexican, South Asian and East African culinary traditions into dishes that somehow feel both inventive and deeply rooted in history. Every course surprised us, from brisket-filled samosas and vibrant chaat to chile-rubbed shrimp with vanilla ghee and clams simmered in turmeric, coconut milk and tomato masala.

Just as impressive as the food is the philosophy behind it. The owners have built a restaurant committed to fair labor practices, ethical sourcing and fostering a healthier restaurant culture—values that shine through in every aspect of the experience. Pair your meal with one of their excellent natural wines, and it's easy to see why Masala y Maíz remains one of our favorite restaurants in Mexico City.

Quirky Attractions in CDMX

Witch’s Market at Mercado Sonora

If creepy, offbeat shopping is your thing, the witch market at Mercado Sonora in Mexico City is an absolute must-see. Tucked away in the market’s back left corner, this bizarre bazaar offers everything from potions to voodoo dolls, making it the ultimate mix of brujería and Catholic kitsch. Santa Muerte figures sit next to baby Jesus statues, and spells for love or money come in bottles of neon liquid you probably shouldn’t drink.

The aisles are tight, chaotic, and filled with the scent of sage. While navigating the labyrinthine stalls, you’ll find unsettling trinkets like Lucero Mundo dolls with sewn-shut eyes or macabre fur balls that defy description. It’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re into all things witchy, Mercado Sonora is a slice of dark magic in CDMX. 

Shopping in CDMX

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a paradise for folk art and handicrafts lovers, offering a treasure trove of arte popular from all over Mexico. This sprawling market is packed with stalls selling everything from Oaxaca’s vibrant alebrijes and intricate Otomi textiles to pre-Columbian-style clay sculptures that rival museum pieces. It’s impossible to see it all in one go, so take your time and maybe even ask for a discount if you’re buying multiple items.

When you need a break from browsing, head to Fonda Carmelita, the market’s cantina, for traditional Mexican food and a refreshing margarita. It’s the perfect spot to recharge before diving back into the market’s colorful chaos. Don’t miss this iconic shopping destination whenever you’re in Mexico City — we never do.

Osaka Travel Guide: Top Attractions, Local Food & Smart Travel Tips

Planning a trip to Osaka? Discover top attractions, must-try street food, cultural landmarks and smart travel tips. 

The retro Shinsekai district

Osaka is a dynamic, high-voltage city in Japan where sleek skyscrapers stand in contrast to centuries-old castles, neon-lit entertainment districts pulse long after dark, and the street food scene rivals Tokyo and Kyoto bite for bite. It’s a place that rewards wandering — exploring neighborhoods, ducking into markets, hopping back on the subway, repeating.

And what makes that wandering infinitely better? Not hauling your suitcase behind you. That’s where services like Luggage Storage Osaka come in handy, giving you the freedom to explore without the burden of bags.

In this guide, you’ll find essential travel tips, must-see attractions, local food recommendations and practical advice to help you plan a smooth, unforgettable visit to Osaka.

Kuromon Market

Why Osaka Is a Must-Visit Destination in Japan

Located in the Kansai region on Japan’s main island of Honshu, Osaka is often called “the Nation’s Kitchen.” Historically a commercial powerhouse, the city blends tradition and innovation with effortless cool.

You’ll find world-class museums alongside ancient temples, retro neighborhoods beside glossy shopping districts, and nightlife that runs from izakayas to rooftop bars. Whether you’re backpacking on a budget or splurging on a luxury stay, Osaka adapts to your travel style.

Osaka Castle

Top Osaka Attractions You Shouldn’t Miss

Osaka is packed with landmarks, food hubs and architectural standouts. These are the essentials:

• Osaka Castle: The city’s iconic symbol, offering sweeping views from the top and stunning cherry blossoms in spring.

• Dotonbori: A sensory overload of neon signs, canal views and wildly fun restaurants.

• Shinsekai: A retro district famous for kushikatsu (panko-breaded skewers) and the Tsutenkaku Tower observation deck.

• Umeda Sky Building: A modern architectural marvel with one of the best panoramic views in Osaka.

• Kuromon Market: A paradise for food lovers, with takoyaki (breaded balls filled with octopus), fresh seafood and seasonal specialties.

Ebisu Bridge in the neon-lit Dotonbori district

Moving between these neighborhoods is part of the adventure — but dragging luggage through crowded trains is not. Securing reliable luggage storage early in your trip reduces stress and lets you focus on the good stuff: exploring.

The subway in Osaka

Smart Tips for Getting Around Osaka

Osaka’s public transport system is famously efficient. Subways, JR lines and private railways connect nearly every major attraction.

• ICOCA card: A prepaid transit card that works across Kansai’s rail systems and saves time at ticket machines.

• Airport access: From Kansai International Airport, the JR Haruka Express and Nankai Electric Railway are fast, popular options.

If your hotel check-in is later in the day — or you have hours to fill before a flight — consider Radical Storage for convenient short-term luggage storage near stations and popular districts. Having your hands free transforms the experience, especially during rush hour.

A takoyaki restaurant in Osaka

What to Eat in Osaka: Must-Try Local Dishes

Osaka’s food culture is the heartbeat of the city. The local phrase “kuidaore” means “eat until you drop,” and honestly, that feels like a challenge.

• Takoyaki: Crisp on the outside, molten and savory inside, these octopus-filled balls are Osaka street food royalty.

• Okonomiyaki: A hearty, customizable pancake packed with cabbage and your choice of toppings.

• Kushikatsu: Deep-fried skewers of meat and vegetables, especially popular in Shinsekai.

The best way to experience Osaka’s food scene? Wander. Follow the smells. Duck into narrow alleys. And ideally, do it without a suitcase trailing behind you like a reluctant pet.

Shitennoji Temple

Cultural Experiences in Osaka Beyond the Neon

While Osaka is known for its energy, it also offers deeply rooted cultural experiences.

• Shitennoji Temple: One of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples, dating back to the 6th century.

• Sumiyoshi Taisha: A historic shrine known for its striking arched bridge and tranquil grounds.

• National Museum of Art, Osaka: Showcasing contemporary Japanese and international artists.

The Osaka National Museum of Art

Luggage Storage in Osaka: What Are Your Options?

Carrying luggage around all day can derail even the best itinerary — especially between hotel checkout and late-night departures.

Osaka offers several storage options:

• Coin lockers in major train stations

• Private luggage storage services across the city

• Local businesses that partner with storage networks

One reliable option is Radical Storage, with dropoff points near transit hubs, shopping areas and tourist districts. This makes it easy to explore hands-free while your belongings remain secure. Alternatives like Bounce, Stasher or LuggageHero also operate in parts of the city, though availability and convenience can vary.

Whichever option you choose, traveling bag-free makes navigating busy markets, hopping on trains and squeezing in last-minute shopping far more enjoyable.

Spring blossoms at Osaka Castle

Best Time to Visit Osaka: Seasonal Travel Tips

Osaka changes with the seasons, each offering a different experience.

• Spring (March–May): Cherry blossoms bloom across Osaka Castle Park and riverside areas.

• Summer (June–August): Hot and humid, but filled with festivals and street food events. Stay hydrated and plan indoor breaks.

• Autumn (September–November): Crisp air and vibrant fall foliage in Japan transform parks and temple grounds.

• Winter (December–February): Cooler temperatures and occasional snow make it ideal for shopping and café-hopping.

Check festival schedules and museum hours before you go, and adjust your wardrobe accordingly.

The Dotonbori district in Osaka

Final Travel Tips for Visiting Osaka

• Leave space in your itinerary for the unexpected — a hidden shrine, a spontaneous street performance or a tucked-away ramen shop.

• Keep physical and digital copies of important documents.

• Respect local customs, especially at temples and historical sites — keep voices low, dress modestly, don’t eat while walking through sacred grounds, and follow the lead of locals at purification fountains and prayer areas.

Osaka rewards curiosity. With smart packing and practical services — including luggage storage when you need it most — you’ll be free to experience both its modern edge and its centuries-old traditions without unnecessary friction.

And in a city built for wandering, that freedom makes all the difference. –Jameson Robert

Old City Chiang Mai: Culture, Markets and Routes for Tourists

Discover the Old Town of Chiang Mai, where ancient temples, vibrant markets and scenic walking routes bring Thailand’s Lanna heritage to life.

The Old City of Chiang Mai is a living testament to a rich cultural heritage and history. With its ancient temples, charming streets and bustling markets, it offers a perfect blend of tradition and modern life. 

The city’s old walls and moat, which once protected it, now provide a scenic backdrop to the vibrant cultural scene. From serene Buddhist temples to lively night bazaars, there’s something for everyone. We’ll explore the best cultural sites, markets and walking routes in Chiang Mai’s Old City, offering helpful tips for tourists looking to fully experience the essence of this historic location.

As with any popular tourist destination, it’s important to stay aware of your surroundings and ensure personal safety. Travelers should be cautious of potential scams or fraudulent activities that could arise during their visit. For those unfamiliar with the term, white collar crime (คือ) refers to financial crimes like fraud or embezzlement, which can affect both locals and tourists alike. Understanding the risks will help you have a safe and enjoyable trip.

Historical Value and Culture of the Old City Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is one of the oldest and most culturally rich cities in Thailand. The Old City of Chiang Mai, surrounded by a moat and walls, is a true open-air museum that attracts tourists with its history and architecture. Here, ancient temples and pagodas have been preserved, most of which were built in the style of the Lanna Kingdom. The temples of Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chedi Luang are just a couple of the many sacred sites worth visiting.

A walk through the streets of the Old City allows you to feel the atmosphere that has been preserved from ancient times. The city blends tradition with modernity: On one street, you can see ancient temples, while on another, you will find modern cafés and shops. This contrast creates a special atmosphere that attracts travelers from all over the world.

MORE: Find these off-the-beaten-path Chiang Mai temples. 

Main Markets and Local Attractions of Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is known for its markets, which are an integral part of local culture. The day market, known as Chiang Mai Rat, is where tourists can buy souvenirs, local products and handmade goods. However, the most famous is the Chiang Mai Night Market, which operates from evening until late at night. This is a great place to purchase unique items such as leather goods, silverware, textiles, and also to enjoy local street food.

MORE: Where is the best street food in Chiang Mai?

In addition to the markets, Chiang Mai has several museums, such as the Art Museum and the National Museum of Chiang Mai. All of these places provide an excellent opportunity to learn more about the culture and history of the region.

To fully enjoy the atmosphere of the city, it is recommended to visit these markets early in the morning or later in the evening, when the temperature is more comfortable and the number of tourists is lower.

Chiang Mai Walking Routes and Excursions

Walking through the Old City of Chiang Mai is a wonderful way to enjoy its atmosphere. For those who enjoy walking, there are several interesting routes that allow you to see all the major attractions of the city — especially if you want to see the Thai Buddhist temples of Chiang Mai. For cyclists, there are designated bike routes that pass through green areas and offer the opportunity to get acquainted with the local nature.

You can also participate in guided tours that help you understand the culture and history of the city more deeply. For those who prefer independent routes, there is the option of hiring a guide who will tell you about historical sites and traditions of the region.

For tourists who prefer safe areas, the Old City is an ideal choice, as most tourist attractions are within walking distance and you can peacefully stroll through the quiet streets.

Useful Information for Travelers and Legal Aspects

Chiang Mai is a safe place for travel, but there are always some safety aspects to consider. For visitors to Thailand, a visa is required for many countries, so it is important to take care of obtaining it in advance. It is also crucial to have medical insurance for the trip, which will cover any unforeseen expenses in case of illness or accidents.

Additionally, it is important to be informed about the legal aspects of staying in Thailand. For example, crimes related to financial manipulation or illegal activities can result in serious consequences. White collar crime in Thailand refers to crimes related to fraud, corruption, and other financial violations. It is important to comply with local laws to avoid legal troubles.

Also, remember that if legal issues arise in Thailand, you can turn to Interpol Thailand for consultation and assistance in resolving legal problems. This will help ensure your safety while staying in the country. –Anatoly Yarovyi

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Anatoly Yarovyi is a Ukrainian attorney and human rights advocate with over 20 years of experience. He holds masters of laws (LL.M.) from Ivan Franko National University of Lviv and Stanford University, specializing in international law and extradition cases.

The Other Art Fair: Where Emerging Artists Take the Spotlight

Forget the gallery gatekeepers. The Other Art Fair puts power back in the hands of artists. 

Chicago is no stranger to art fairs. On one end, you have the Glenwood Avenue Arts Fest, a laidback neighborhood event where amateur artists and community creatives put their work out into the world. At the other end, there’s the Old Town Art Fair, where fine artists showcase classic styles in painting and photography, all with an air of prestige.

And then, right in that sweet spot in the middle, you’ve got the Other Art Fair — a vibrant, avant-garde showcase where emerging artists take bold creative swings, and the weird and the wonderful find a home.

In addition to Chicago, the Other Art Fair shows in Los Angeles, Brooklyn, Dallas, London, and Melbourne and Sydney, Australia.  

Why Is It Called the Other Art Fair?

It’s all in the name. The Other Art Fair was designed to be, well, other — a counterpoint to the traditional art world, where established galleries and curators act as gatekeepers, deciding which artists get exposure and which ones don’t.

Founder Ryan Stanier saw this firsthand. “The concept was born from a realization of the disparity between a London audience eager to discover the next big thing and talented artists struggling to gain recognition,” he told Fad Magazine. 

Stanier wanted an alternative to a lot of conventional art fairs featuring artists represented by galleries. But the Other Art Fair removes those barriers. Here, artists apply directly, and if accepted, showcase and sell their work themselves — no gallery middleman needed.

But don’t mistake accessibility for a free-for-all.

How Do Artists Get Selected?

While the Other Art Fair prides itself on openness, not just anyone can exhibit. Every artist goes through a curated selection process to ensure that the work on display is fresh, compelling and high-quality.

A committee of art experts reviews applications, evaluating artists based on originality, technical skill and artistic voice. The goal isn’t to enforce a particular style — quite the opposite. The fair thrives on diversity, pulling together artists who push boundaries and bring something new to the table.

For emerging artists, this is a game-changer. Many traditional fairs require gallery representation, but here, artists get to engage with buyers directly, tell their own stories, and make sales on their own terms.

The Vibe of the Other Art Fair

This isn’t your standard art fest. The Other Art Fair is a true experience. Every event is curated with immersive installations, interactive elements and a venue that sets the tone.

In Chicago, that means Artifact Events, a restored industrial space in Ravenswood that screams “effortlessly cool.” The exposed brick, the high ceilings, the perfect blend of grit and polish — it all adds to the magic.

“We’re challenging convention, breaking rules and bringing everyone along for the ride,” the Other Art Fair organizers declare on their website. “Here, art is for everyone.”

Who’s Showing?

The fair features a mix of painters, sculptors, photographers and mixed-media artists, all selected through that rigorous application process.

Yes, some artists don’t make the cut. But the goal isn’t exclusivity — it’s quality. Walking through the fair, you won’t feel like you’re seeing the same rehashed styles you’ve experienced a dozen times before. The fair is about discovery, surprise and bold creative voices.

Beyond the Booths

Sure, the art is the main event, but the Other Art Fair also features live performances, interactive installations, maybe even a pop-up tattoo parlor (it’s happened before).

The courtyard at Artifact Events has food and drink stands, making it easy to grab a refreshment and process all the wild creativity around you. 

There’s also a cool bar upstairs, where you can have a booze-fueled discussion of your favorite pieces.

Planning Your Visit to the Other Art Fair

Dates and Venue: The fair is scheduled for March 27 to 30, 2025, at Artifact Events, located in the Ravenswood neighborhood at 4325 North Ravenswood Avenue. 

Tickets: Opening night tickets are $40 to $45; other dates are $20 to $25. Keep an eye on their website for updates.

Transportation: There’s quite a bit of free street parking along Ravenswood Avenue. Public transit is a great option too, with the Montrose Brown Line, Ravenswood Metra station, and bus lines including the #9 Ashland, all nearby. 

Accessibility: The venue is fully accessible, featuring wide entrance doors, elevators to every level and ADA-compliant restrooms. Service dogs are welcome, and staff at the welcome desk will be available to assist as needed.

Tips for Visitors

Plan ahead. Review the list of participating artists and special installations before you go. That way, you can prioritize what excites you most.

Don’t be shy — talk to the artists. They want to talk about their work. Ask questions, learn about their process, and maybe even take home a piece that means something to you.

Set a budget. The fair includes everything from affordable finds to higher-end collector pieces. Know your spending limit — and stay open to falling in love with something unexpected.

Respect the art. Unless an artist explicitly invites you to touch a piece, assume it’s hands-off. No one wants to be that person.

Ask before taking photos. Some artists are cool with pictures, some aren’t. Always get permission before snapping away.

Take in more than just the art. See what performances and workshops are on. And grab a cocktail at the stylish bar or a bite at the food court. 

There’s No Other Fair Like It

If you’re the kind of person who prefers an art fair with an edge, where discovery is the point, then the Other Art Fair is your scene.

I went in 2024, and I have to say: It’s probably the coolest art fair I’ve been to.

You can feel the Other Art Fair’s mission at every turn. It’s truly a showcase of edgy, unexpected and boundary-pushing creativity. 

Whether you’re a serious collector or just someone who appreciates creative expression, there’s something thrilling about stepping into a space where anything feels possible. –Wally

48 Hours in Tel Aviv: A Whirlwind of Sun, Spice and Shenanigans

Explore Tel Aviv’s top spots — Old Jaffa, Carmel Market, Tel Aviv Museum of Art and Rothschild Boulevard — in this two-day guide to Israel’s cultural capital.

Tel Aviv, Israel — where ancient history meets cutting-edge cool, and where the scent of falafel competes with the salty Mediterranean breeze. If you’ve only got 48 hours in Israel’s most vibrant city, buckle up. This is going to be a ride filled with beachside bliss, street art and enough hummus to make you consider a second stomach.

“With a mix of history, beach life and some of the best food on the planet, Tel Aviv delivers an unforgettable 48-hour adventure. ”

Day 1: Culture, Cuisine and Cocktails

Morning to Afternoon: Tel Aviv Walking Tour

Start your adventure with an extensive Tel Aviv walking tour because the best way to get to know a city is by pounding its pavements. Begin in Old Jaffa, the city’s ancient port, where cobbled alleys wind past centuries-old stone buildings, contemporary art galleries, and a view of the sea so stunning it might make you cancel your return flight.

Next stop: Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel) — a sensory overload of colors, smells and sounds. Here, you’ll sample Israel’s greatest hits: falafel so crispy it whispers sweet nothings as you bite in, silky hummus that could convert the most devout carnivore, and juicy fruit that make you question why produce at home tastes like disappointment.

Wrap up the tour on Nachalat Binyamin, Tel Aviv’s artsy, free-spirited street. Think vibrant murals, handcrafted jewelry, and street performances that range from mesmerizing to what did I just watch?

Late Afternoon: Beach Bliss

You’ve walked, you’ve eaten, you’ve marveled at murals. It’s time to chill. Head to Frishman Beach or Gordon Beach, where the sand is soft, the sea is inviting, and the beach bars are more than happy to provide you with a cold Goldstar beer or a fruity cocktail. Whether you choose to dip in the water, stretch out on a lounger, or just people-watch the absurdly fit Tel Avivians, this is your moment to relax.

Evening: Rothschild Boulevard and Nightlife Adventures

As the sun sets, it’s time to dress up (or at least put on your best linen shirt) and hit Rothschild Boulevard. This tree-lined stretch is Tel Aviv’s nightlife heart, packed with buzzing bars, sleek restaurants and cocktail joints that take mixology very seriously. Start at Bellboy, a speakeasy-style bar where drinks come with a side of theatrical flair. Hungry? Grab dinner at one of the city’s contemporary restaurants before diving headfirst into Tel Aviv’s legendary nightlife, where the party doesn’t stop until the sun threatens to rise again.

Day 2: Art, Markets and Mediterranean Magic

Morning: Sunrise Stroll and Coffee With a View

The Mediterranean is at its best in the morning — peaceful, golden, and just begging for an early walk or bike ride along the Tel Aviv Promenade (Tayelet). Join the locals for a jog (or let’s be real, sip coffee while watching them jog). Grab a strong Israeli espresso or a cafe hafuch (Israel’s answer to a cappuccino) at a beachside café — and let the sea breeze work its magic.

Late Morning: Tel Aviv Museum of Art

After basking in nature’s masterpiece, head to one of Tel Aviv’s actual masterpieces: the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. A haven for art lovers, it showcases Israeli and international works in a stunningly modern building. Bonus: It’s also an excellent excuse to escape the midday heat.

Lunch: The Bohemian Beauty of Neve Tzedek

Wander over to Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv’s most picturesque neighborhood. Think charming boutiques, cute cafés and Instagrammable corners at every turn. Stop at Suzana, where the Mediterranean and Israeli flavors come together in a beautiful dance of fresh ingredients, fragrant spices, and just the right amount of tahini drizzle.

Afternoon: Treasure Hunting in Jaffa Flea Market

Jump in a taxi and head to Jaffa’s Flea Market (Shuk Hapishpeshim), a mix of vintage finds, quirky souvenirs, and stalls filled with everything from antique trinkets to trendy clothing. Bargaining is expected, so channel your inner haggler and walk away with a one-of-a-kind keepsake.

Evening: Sunset at Namal Tel Aviv

End your whirlwind 48 hours with dinner by the sea at Namal Tel Aviv, the city’s revamped port district. Picture lively restaurants, sunset views, and fresh Mediterranean seafood that tastes like it was caught five minutes ago. 

Extra Tips for Your Tel Aviv Adventure

Getting Around: The city is incredibly walkable, but electric scooters and bikes make zipping around even easier.

Best Time to Visit: March through May and September to November offer perfect weather — hot enough for the beach, but not melt-into-the-sidewalk hot.

Local Vibe: Tel Avivians are friendly, chatty, and not big on personal space — expect warm interactions and lots of hand gestures.

With a mix of history, beach life and some of the best food on the planet, Tel Aviv delivers an unforgettable 48-hour adventure. Whether you’re haggling in Jaffa, sipping cocktails on Rothschild, or simply staring at the Mediterranean in pure bliss, one thing’s for sure — this city knows how to make an impression. –Lucy Roberts

Oddities Flea Market: A Bizarre Bazaar of Unforgettable Finds

Regina and Ryan Cohn’s warped brainchild is a fantastic journey of curious collectibles.

The Oddities Flea Market is filled with items to start your own cabinet of curiosities.

When I asked Wally about attending the Oddities Flea Market, an event that brings together vendors from all over the country to sell their unusual wares, his answer was a resounding yes. (Actually, he probably looked at me and said, “Uh, duh.”)

We knew we were kindred spirits when we met — but before Wally, I identified as a minimalist. He’s a maximalist and loves collecting things. Turns out that when a minimalist moves in with a maximalist, you end up with just a little bit more stuff. I decided to embrace the aesthetic and figure out ways to creatively curate vignettes. Eventually, I succumbed and became a maximalist, too. 

Our burgeoning collection of oddities consists of a human skull named Malachi that’s supposedly a World War II trophy, a taxidermied squirrel with an Elizabethan lace collar, a two-headed African fetish figure, or nkondi, stuck full of nails, and a mummified llama fetus our friend Hugo picked up for Wally in Ecuador — to name just a few. 

When it came to the fair, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I knew that local chef Halee Raff of Hardbitten would be there with her elevated and colorful riff on Pop-Tarts, as well as Woolly Mammoth, one of our favorite shops in the Andersonville neighborhood, but other than that I wasn’t sure what we’d find. 

Vendors from around the country have booths at the market.

Embracing the Strange: The Birth of the Oddities Flea Market

The Oddities Flea Market was founded by Regina and Ryan Cohn about six years ago. Ryan was well-versed in buying and collecting antiques and oddities while Regina was making a name for herself in fashion. They combined their passions into a traveling emporium that celebrates the weird and wonderful. 

Their first market launched in 2017 and introduced the concept of oddity collecting to the general public at the now-shuttered Brooklyn Bazaar. Since then, the Cohns have expanded to additional markets in Los Angeles and Chicago. “It’s only the second time we’ve been to Chicago,” Ryan told us. “So it was a nice reintroduction.”

I am doll parts: some of the creepy-cute creations from Sideshow Gallery

This year the Chicago market was held over two days in April at Morgan Manufacturing. The red brick building predates the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 and acts as an industrial chic event space in the hip West Loop neighborhood. 

We weren’t alone in our curiosity for curiosities. When we arrived at 11 a.m. for VIP early access, there was already a small queue forming. Some lucky attendees had planned ahead and signed up to take a cat skeleton articulation class taught by Ryan. By the time we had gotten our tickets, the workshop was sold out. Next time. Maybe. 

Death masks on display from Wooly Mammoth

Not for the Faint of Heart: Entering the Fair

After checking in, we passed a booth which featured a selection of T-shirts and totes for sale (black, of course). We took a closer look and noticed that the screen-printed images were of Ryan’s personal work — Beauchêne, also known as the art of the exploded human skull.

The soundtrack for the event was provided by Dead Animal Assembly Plant, spinning songs near the entrance, with a backdrop of projections of creepy vintage cartoons. 

Spooky and silly classic cartoons played above DJs from Dead Animal Assembly Plant.

Wally and I couldn’t help but salivate as we passed by the selection of Hardbitten’s delectable baked goods. Nearby, the sophisticated cocktail bar offered a variety of specialty drinks, each with an intriguing name: Memento Mori, Sideshow, the Veneration, Wunderkammer. No judging, but it was a bit early for us to imbibe. If you were seeking a caffeine fix, Spiritus Coffee from Lombard, Illinois was the place to go.

A seclection of Hardbitten’s treats, including their riffs on Pop-Tarts

We wandered through the market, discovering an impressive variety of wondrous wares: natural history specimens, taxidermy (both artistic and traditional), creative jewelry and a few truly macabre specimens. Here are a few of our favorites. 

A woman poses for her tintype photo from Blkk Hand.

A Handful of Shadows: Blkk Hand

St. Paul-based photographer Carla Alexandra Rodriguez uses an old-school process known as wet-plate collodion to create eerily beautiful tintype portraits. This method, which dates back to the 1850s, requires precise chemistry, accurate timing and a classic large-format camera. 

Silver nitrate is used in the processing of tinplate photography and is a highly reactive chemical that can cause skin to turn black if it’s not handled properly. Her studio, Blkk Hand takes its name from this phenomenon — and is why Carla always wears gloves when working. 

Nora Past, seen in a developing tintype photo, assisted at the booth.

How’s it work? The process begins with coating a metal plate with a collodion solution that contains a mixture of alcohol, ether and silver nitrate. Each plate is exposed to light in the camera, which converts the silver nitrate to silver metal. 

This challenging and time-consuming method produces incredibly detailed images with an ethereal quality, capturing the beauty of a moment in a way that no other type of photography can.

Memento Mori Los Angeles co-sponsored the flea market.

Death Becomes Them: Memento Mori Los Angeles

Our favorite booth at the flea market belonged to Memento Mori Los Angeles, run by Brad and Deidre Hartman, a Cali-based duo who create beautiful and macabre works of art. Their pieces are a reminder of the inevitability of death, while also celebrating the beauty of life.

Among their fascinating objects were skulls, insects, crystals, jewelry, and an assortment of devotional candles featuring musical artists like Siouxsie Sioux and Nick Cave. We were mesmerized at the offerings, including a riff on the infamous Fiji mermaid hoax, a glass cloche containing human teeth and a basket filled with supple leathered purses made from genuine cane toads. I was skeptical at first when I picked one up to examine it — but it was definitely real. Don’t feel too bad, though. These amphibians were originally introduced as a means of pest control, but ended up becoming an invasive species. So now, instead of eating cane beetles, they’re just hanging out as purses and looking cute. I suppose there are worse fates. 

A replica of the Fiji mermaid, a Witchling chick and other artistic takes on taxidermy from Memento Mori Los Angeles

I was particularly drawn to their Witchlings, yellow ducklings wearing tiny witch hats, as well as a two-headed duckling called Double Trouble. Brad and Deidre’s work is a reminder to live life to the fullest and to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us, even in death.

Playful fake taxidermied heads on display at the Odds and Ends booth

Faux Real: Odds and Ends 

We stopped by Odds and Ends, featuring the work of Atlanta-based Chloë Grass, who creates quirky faux taxidermy trophies and other oddities. She studied at the Arts University Bournemouth in the U.K., where she honed her skills in prosthetics sculpting and special effects makeup.

I loved her double-headed lamb, which was both cute and creepy. (I’m realizing I have a thing for two-headed creatures.) It was definitely a conversation starter, and I couldn’t help but smile when I saw it. Chloë’s creations reflect my favorite type of art: whimsical and a little bit weird.

A selection of vintage fake eyes at Eyeba’s booth

I Only Have Eyes for You: Eyeba

We were blown away by Brooklyn-based jeweler Amanda Maer Huan’s booth at the flea market, Eyeba. She takes antique prosthetic eyes and sets them in sterling silver to create rings, pendants and other fine jewelry.

As we browsed her wares, Amanda gave us a brief education on the myth of the round glass eye. While the visible portion of the prosthesis appears round, the part that sits within the eye socket is actually curved like a pasta shell. They’re custom-made to match the size and color of the wearer’s functioning eye. 

Windows to your soul? Amazing rings from Eyeba

The rings were hypnotic. I had to literally drag Wally away.

Deadskull Curio had the most macabre offerings at the market.

A Portal to Another World: Deadskull Curio 

Deadskull Curio was the most global booth at the Oddities Flea Market. It had everything from hand-carved wood masks to antique Asian marionette puppets to Tibetan kapala skull cups. They even had black and white morgue and crime scene photos from the 1960s, vertebrae and a horrific preserved cat’s head in a jar of formaldehyde.

The collection of death photos had a warning

The booth is owned by Paul Abrahamian, who, randomly, competed in two seasons of Big Brother. He was a cool guy who was obviously passionate about his collection. Items were flying off the shelves as we were looking at them — but we decided to pass on the cat’s head specimen. It would have been like having a pet cemetery in our living room, and we’re not sure our cat Bowzer would have appreciated it.

The saucy teacups from Miss Havisham’s Curiosities were inspired by the owner’s cheeky grandmother.

Steeped in Humor: Miss Havisham’s Curiosities 

Miss Havisham's Curiosities is a line of insult teacups created by Melissa Johnson. The idea was inspired by two sources: the jilted bride trapped in time in Charles Dickens’ novel Great Expectations, and Melissa’s grandmother, who expressed herself by writing offensive things on broken or chipped teacups with nail polish and then selling them at her antique shop.

On the outside, these teacups are proper, often vintage, china. But on the inside, they’re hiding naughty surprises: cheeky insults written in cursive:  “Syphilitic,” “No one likes you!” and “Not today, Satan!” The teacups are the perfect way to spill the tea and say what you really mean…without actually having to say it.

Hidden in the Poison Forest, 2021

We were drawn to Katie Gamb’s artwork because of its twee yet sinister quality.

Sugar and Spice, But Not Everything Nice: Katie Gamb 

Katie Gamb is a Milwaukee-based artist who creates whimsical and macabre worlds in her illustrations. Her work is a love letter to a childhood spent lost in books, where animals, humans and monsters like skeletons all live together in a world of wonder. As Wally and I looked at her work, I turned to him and said, “They’re adorable at first glance — but they get a little creepy when you look closer.”

“That’s exactly what I go for,” Katie said, smiling at us.

My Heart’s Still Beating, 2019

Like much of the art we appreciate, Gamb’s works tread the line between creepy and cute.

One piece depicted a bird fluttering within the rib cage of a skeleton, while another showed a girl dressed as a ghost in a forest of poisonous plants. Katie’s imagination is a portal to a strange and wondrous world, where anything is possible. I regret not circling back to purchase a sticker featuring a sad cat playing an accordion with a feather sticking out of its mouth.

Katie’s work reminds us that the world isn’t always as it seems. There’s beauty in the darkness.

Feral Femme Art’s booth evoked a freakshow from the past with interactive artworks.

Step Right Up, Folks: Feral Femme Art

We ended the show at the Feral Femme Art booth, with a conversation with Rachaela DiRosaria, a New Orleans-based folk artist who creates assemblages that evoke the nostalgia of Depression-era circus and sideshow advertising. Their hand-painted figures and moveable parts bring these sideshow performers and circus freaks to life. 

Artist Rachaela DiRosaria posing with Zach Wager, who spun records at the market.

Inveterate

Funhouse

The Tattooed Woman

Rachaela’s work is infused with a dark humor that’s both playful and unsettling — an interactive stagecraft of delight.

Double Trouble has found a new home amid the other oddities chez Duke and Wally.

After making our way through the different vendors, I turned to Wally and said, “I’d like to go back and get Double Trouble. Are you cool with that?” To which Wally replied, “Obvi.” 

Exploring the Oddities Flea Market was a quirky adventure that appealed to our inner freaks, and we’re glad we had the chance to attend. 

The next iteration will be held at the Globe Theatre in LA on October 7, 2023 — a perfect day, in my humble opinion, as it’s also my birthday.  –Duke

48 Hours in Adelaide, Australia: A Local’s Travel Guide

A two-day itinerary for an amazing city that’s been overlooked in favor of Melbourne and Sydney for too long. With aboriginal art and great wine regions, it’s no wonder publications are heaping accolades on Adelaide.

It’s time visitors to Australia put Adelaide on their itinerary.

Tucked down in the middle of the south coast of Australia, Adelaide has played second (or is it third?) fiddle to Melbourne and Sydney for years. Tourists flocked to both of those cities — and while they are amazing places to visit if you’re in Australia, those who don’t visit Adelaide are certainly missing out.

In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved — it was named as one of the top cities to visit in the world by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the whole state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet. And in 2021, Adelaide was declared Australia’s most livable city and the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Global Liveability Index. 

“In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved.

It was named as one of the top cities to visit by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet.

And in 2021, Adelaide was declared the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist. ”

As you can imagine, these accolades have led to an influx of people from all over the world. And they have made us locals want to ensure that visitors have the best time.

If you’re thinking about spending a weekend in Adelaide, make the most of what this gorgeous part of Australia has to offer. Keep reading for an essential guide to Adelaide: what to eat, where to stay and of course, what to do. 

See what all the fuss is about. We’ll help you pack a lot into even a two-day visit to Adelaide.

Before You Go: A Bit About Adelaide 

I hope you’re prepared for a busy 48 hours — and I mean busy in a good way, because there is so much to see, do, taste and experience.

But before we dive into the itinerary, let’s talk about some facts about Adelaide.

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, the state that’s in the middle of the bottom half of the country. The city is located right on the coast, toward the center of the state, and is actually quite small in population, with around 1.5 million people calling it home.

The city has a strong indigenous history, with the area also known as Kaurna land, named for the traditional habitants of the area. Many areas in Adelaide honor their indigenous roots, with traditional names still being used.

In terms of weather, Adelaide does have seasons. In summer it can get quite hot, but unlike other tropical areas, like Queensland, the heat isn’t sticky and uncomfortable. In winter, it can get pretty cold — so, depending on what you’re looking for in a trip, make sure you take the seasons into consideration. If you’re looking for warm, pleasant weather, February to April is a great time of year to visit.

The city itself is convenient — not overly large and divided into a grid, and because of this you’ll be able to easily navigate getting around. There is also great public transport, with trams taking you from the CBD (central business district) down to Glenelg, a popular beach suburb of Adelaide.

But where to stay? If you’re looking for fun nightlife and shopping, staying in the CBD might be a great option, with plenty of hotels and Airbnbs around. If you’re looking for something with a beach vibe, then Glenelg is the area for you. And if you’re looking to spoil yourself, try the Sequoia Lodge, a luxury accommodation in Adelaide Hills.

Pamper yourself with a stay at the Sequoia Lodge in Adelaide Hills.

So, now that you know a little bit about the city and where to stay, it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty.

Two Days in Adelaide

Day 1: Adelaide City

Like I said before, getting around the Adelaide CBD is pretty easy. The walkable CBD and convenient transport mean it’s a breeze to explore.

To get your first day started, I highly recommend that you take a walk along the River Torrens. You can enjoy the beautiful views and do a little people-watching — something I love to do in any place I visit. 

You can follow the river all the way down to East Terrace, which is where you will find a “bridge of love” — where couples have hung a padlock to celebrate their commitment. Not only is this a very romantic place to visit, it’s also where you’re going to turn off from the river and make your way toward North Terrace.

The Migration Museum is housed in what was once the Destitute Asylum, a place that offered support to immigrants.

To get to North Terrace, you can take Kintore Avenue, site of the Migration Museum. This is where you can learn about more than two centuries of migration to Australia — and it’s free to visit. Even if you only have a half hour to duck in, it’s well worth it.

The gorgeous façade of the South Australian Museum

After the Migration Museum, if you hi want to keep up with your cultural exploration of Adelaide, then on your way to North Terrace, visit the South Australian Museum, the State Library of South Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia. At the museum, be sure to check out the Aboriginal Australian exhibition. And the library has the incredible Mortlock Wing, which wouldn’t look out of place in Harry Potter. 

Is this Hogwarts? Nope, it’s the famed Mortlock Wing of the State Library of South Australia.

The Art Gallery of South Australia

Once you’ve wrapped up at the museums and galleries, head to the Botanic Gardens of South Australia. A free guided tour is offered every day at 10:30 a.m. Here you’ll get to see a variety of  indigenous plants, shrubs and flowers. 

The majestic Palm House at the botanic gardens

By this point, you’ve probably worked up an appetite. Good news: Across the road from the botanic gardens, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, including an awesome Thai restaurant called Golden Boy. There are more restaurant options en route to Rundle Street, which is where Rundle Mall is, the famous shopping strip of Adelaide. 

On Grenfell Street, the next block over from Rundle, you’ll find the incredible Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute. You can buy gorgeous art prints and souvenirs in the gallery shop.

After the cultural center, make your way down to Central Market — it’s a bit of a walk — so you may as well take the scenic route along King William Street. That way you’ll get to see some of Adelaide’s beautiful old buildings like the General Post Office and the Town Hall.

Central Market is your next destination and is the Southern Hemisphere’s largest covered market. This is where you will find the most delicious fresh produce — and if you’re going to stop anywhere, make sure it’s the Smelly Cheese shop!

Cheeses Christ! This is Wally’s dream come true! The Smelly Cheese Company at Central Market

Now, this is where you need to decide whether you want to stay in the city for the nightlife or if you want to spend some time down at the beach. While the CBD has plenty to see and do and great restaurants to eat at, I recommend taking the tram to Glenelg to enjoy watching the day turn into night.

It takes around 30 minutes to get to Glenelg by tram, and it’s worth it — plus, you get to see some of the prettiest areas of Adelaide along the way. 

Hop on the tram — the seaside suburb of Glenelg is just half an hour away!

If it’s a warm day, you can enjoy a swim, or if you want to stay dry, why not grab a drink at the Glenelg Surf Life Saving Club and watch the sunset? Glenelg also has some great restaurants, with amazing seafood options and views of the water.

If you’re staying in the city, you can take the tram back or grab a taxi. Have a nightcap at any of the awesome bars in the city. Now, while there is always plenty on, I recommend trying to get in relatively early, because tomorrow is going to be another busy day!

The Barossa Valley is one of three wine regions outside of Adelaide.

Day 2: The Wine Regions

You cannot possibly visit this region without tasting the local wine. The Adelaide CBD is actually close to three of the best wine regions in Australia: the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills.

Before you get to the wine tasting, you need to line your stomach with a delicious breakfast. If you’re in the CBD, a great brunch place is Crack Kitchen. 

Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to get to tasting. It’s honestly hard to choose between all of the wine regions, though the Barossa is likely to be the one you’ve heard of — it’s where Rockford, Wolf Blass and Jacob’s Creek all come from. It’s northeast of the city.

McLaren Vale is south of the city and offers incredible views of the water, and the Adelaide Hills wine region is about 25 minutes east of the CBD.

The d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale sounds like a trip. It offers a tasting room, the Alternate Realities Museum, a Salvador Dalí exhibition and other sensory delights.

Visiting the wine regions does take a bit of planning because unfortunately, there isn’t really any public transport out there. But there are many different options: day tours, hop-on-and-off bus tours or renting a car. With that last option, you do get the flexibility of being able to spend more time in certain areas — though it also means you may not get to enjoy the tastings to their full capacity. 

If I had to choose one region, I would probably go with the Adelaide Hills. Not only do you have the benefit of enjoying Adelaide’s oldest wine region and the gorgeous vineyards, but there is so much more to do as well. 

Who can resist the opportunity to see koala bears up close? Head to the Cleland Wildlife Park to spot these cuties, along with kangaroos, wallabies, dingoes and other native animals.

In the Hills, the Cleland Wildlife Park offers a chance to meet a koala up close.

A 45-minute drive away, the Big Rocking Horse — which is exactly what it sounds like — needs to be seen to be believed.

And the picturesque traditional European village of Hahndorf is home to vineyards, bakeries, galleries, boutique shops and distilleries.

The Old Mill in the traditional European village of Hahndorf

Have dinner at the award-winning Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant on the Mount Lofty Estate on the same grounds as Sequoia Lodge.

Even if you don’t stop in the Hills, it’s a beautiful place to take a scenic drive through.

As you can see, Adelaide is a stunning city that offers its visitors so much to see and do. Of course I recommend spending as long as you can, but it’s easy to get a great sampling of all it has to offer in a mere 48 hours. –Sophie Armstrong

 

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela: One-Stop Shopping in CDMX

The best market in Mexico City is filled with folk art and handicrafts from all around Mexico.  

A selection of fantastical alebrijes on sale at La Ciudadela

Mexico City has no shortage of markets. There’s the Saturday art market along the adorable cobblestone streets on the hills of San Ángel. There’s La Lagunilla, the Sunday antiques market. There’s also the Mercado Sonora, with a witch market tucked into a back corner, and the vibrant, two-story Mercado Coyoacán. And market stalls pop up all over the city, including in the Plaza de la Republica at the entrance to the Monumento de la Revolución. 

Papier-mâché devils hanging around the mercado

¡Mucha lucha! A luchadore-themed shop at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Religious artifacts on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

But if you’re into folk art, handicrafts and arte popular, as Duke and I are, the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a dream come true. It’s so massive you couldn’t even hope to cover it all on one visit. We’ve been there on both visits to CDMX — and will make it a stop every time we go back. 

If I’m being perfectly honest, Duke and I have a problem. We just love traditional handicrafts so much we can’t help but bring home half a suitcase full of goodies. As you can imagine, our home is practically overflowing with these souvenirs of our world travels. 

A nun is amazed at the selection of folk art on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

We bought a few things at this stall with clay artworks in the pre-Columbian style.

Puppets and other arte popular fill every stall at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

Mexican Trees of Life at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

A typical shop at La Ciudadela

Break up your shopping — and grab a margarita — at the cantina in the market.

Tips for Shopping at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

When you enter, the main part of the market is to your right — but don’t miss the smaller section off to the left as well. 

The stalls offer handicrafts from various regions all over Mexico: alebrijes, brightly painted wooden fantastical creatures from Oaxaca; colorful Otomi textiles, including hand-embroidered pillow covers and tablecloths depicting animals, flowers and plants; clay sculptures that surpass those sold at the Museo Nacional de Antropología gift shop with many in the pre-Columbian style. 

There are handicrafts for sale from all over Mexico at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

At La Ciudadela, prices are set — but it doesn’t hurt to ask for a bit of a discount if you’re buying multiple items from one vendor. 

We always eat lunch at Fonda Carmelita, the cantina in the middle of the market.

There’s a cantina in the middle of the market called Fonda Carmelita, where we always stop to get a bite of traditional Mexican fare — and a couple of margaritas, por supuesto. The first time we were here, Duke went to the back to use the baño and returned to the table, reporting that our frozen margs were being whipped up in a blender by an 8-year-old boy. 

The cantina will always be a welcome resting spot for us to recharge and discuss the stalls we want to revisit after lunch. Apparently, the loud-talking German-speaking tourist at a neighboring table didn’t get the memo that smoking indoors has been banned in CDMX since 2008. He lit up a cigar after his meal, which was our cue that it was time to ask for la cuenta and get back to shopping. 

Right out front of the market, a couple of women whip up tacos with homemade blue corn tortillas.

Exploring the Neighborhood

On the sidewalk outside the market, small vendors set up. The first time we came, we stopped to buy veggie tacos — and were obsessed with watching one of the women make homemade blue corn tortillas on a large metal drum right before our eyes. 

And on our most recent visit, a quirky used record stand had popped up. 

One of the best traditions of Mexico City: open-air dancing in the parks

After a half-day of shopping, the tote bags we had brought with us stuffed full of amazing finds (some for gifts, most for us), we explored the park across the street, Parque de la Ciudadela. We’re familiar enough with CDMX traditions now not to be surprised to see couples dancing in the open air. These people are doing life right. –Wally

Our fave spot to shop in CDMX

A mural on the wall in front of the mercado

When you see this, you know you’re in for a shopping extravaganza!

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Balderas S/N
Colonia Centro
Cuauhtémoc
06040 Cuauhtémoc
CDMX
Mexico

 

The Quirky Charms of the L’Isle sur la Sorgue Sunday Market

Part flea market, part farmers market, stalls line the river that encircles this town in Provence known for antiques. 

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

We learned about L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from ma mère. She’s always been good at research and finding fun excursions as well as amazing places to stay on vacation. I still recall that she and her fellow librarians in Annapolis were among the first ones to realize the potential of what was then an upstart search engine named Google. 

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

While we were staying in Aix-en-Provence (those Provençals sure love their hyphens), the Shirl, as we affectionately refer to my mom — sometimes even to her face! — informed us of the Sunday market in a nearby medieval town named L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Most of the small towns in Provence have their charms, but what makes this one so downright adorable is the fact that it’s encircled by a river — hence its name, which references an island on the River Sorgue. The Sunday market stretches along the water’s edge halfway around the town.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Round and Round in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

We got up early on Sunday morning to catch a train to L’Isle. (I’m not sure if that’s what locals call it, but L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just too much of a mouthful to say every time. For the record, the town is pronounced, “Leel sur la Sorg.”)

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

Bridges crisscross the canals, and now and then you’ll pass large wooden wheels in the water, covered with beards of green algae. They’re now fenced off and just there for show, the mills they were once connected to long gone. Et bien sûr, with the canal surrounding the town, it has earned the predictable nickname “the Venice of Provence.” We were there back in 2017, but more recent photos reveal that they’ve run with this, and the river is now filled with gondolas. I’m not sure how I feel about that. Aw, heck, who am I kidding? Duke and I would have totally caught a ride in one.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

About 300 stalls are said to set up each Sunday, selling everything from secondhand goods to saucisson. 

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

Right as we entered the town, we passed a table with various representations of the Provençal mascot, the cicada. (Learn why this lovely part of France chose a bug as its symbol.) We admired an iron trivet shaped like a cicada. Not sure we wanted to lug it around all day, we uttered that famous phrase of many a traveler: “We’ll get it on the way back.” 

But then I remembered having been burned before: You never know where the day will take you, or if the vendor will sell out or pack it up early. So I forked over the requisite francs (actually, by this time it was probably euros, but that doesn’t have as nice a ring to it). The trivet still sits in the windowsill above our kitchen sink. 

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The Shirl’s Suitor

One section of the market opens up into a square filled with various stands selling food items. A diminutive man, who wasn’t even as tall as my 5’2” mother, with a prominent nose and a beaming smile, called out to us as we passed by. He zeroed in on the Shirl, and started flirting with her something fierce. He shamelessly ogled her, showering her with compliments, wrapping his arm around her back, unphased by the presence of my father. He was so full of energy and was so amusingly slick, we all just laughed at his antics. 

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

The samples and the flirting are free!

He was selling various tapenades and other spreads, and offered to have us try some free samples before realizing he had run out of bread. 

So he told us, “Un moment,“ and darted off to a nearby stall, where he snatched a baguette. It looked like he stole it, which cracked us up — though I’m sure he has an agreement with nearby vendors. 

He sliced the bread up, slathered on some of his colorful spreads and batted his eyes at the “belle madame.” He was so utterly charming and over the top, we felt obliged to purchase quite a few jars of his wares. 

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

At one point, the Shirl stopped to admire a scarf. It was blue, of course. We joke that my mom likes lots of colors: blue and white and…blue. 

She put the scarf down and moved on through the crowd. We waited till she was out of sight, and then Duke snatched the scarf and bought it for her as a Christmas present. He’s sneaky that way.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Gone Antiquing

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also known for its antique shops. The town’s reputation as an antiquing hub draws crowds from all over Europe, and prices tend to be high. Peter Mayle, he of A Year in Provence fame, famously groused, “The only thing you can’t get in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a bargain.”

Despite being steeped in the fancy heirlooms of the past, L’Isle has a playfulness to it. Most of the stores don’t take themselves too seriously. You’ll find a statue of a giraffe statue peeking its head up amongst birdcages or a smiling clown looking to have his finger pulled. 

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

Wally clowns around.

We hit a bunch of shops after wandering through the market. One was situated right on the river’s edge. It seemed to balance precariously over the water, like the slightest push would cause it to totter into the Sorgue. We peered out the back door and chuckled over an amusing vignette: In the middle of the river, two chairs sat partially submerged at a table.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

Inside the two-level store chock-a-block with antique bric-a-brac, we rummaged through a bin of hand-painted numbered tiles until we found two 5s, which we passed off to my parents, who purchased them to use as their house number. 

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

We grabbed lunch at a café and sat on a small balcony over the river. The glass my beer came in was so cute, complete with a cicada, it somehow found its way in my bag. Karma ended up catching up with me, though. Because we hadn’t been back in our vacation rental for five minutes before the bag bumped into a wrought iron gazebo-like structure by the kitchen, and I heard the glass shatter. C’est la vie! –Wally

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The Creepy Witch Market at Mercado Sonora

Head to the back left corner to enter a world of magic potions, Santeria, brujeria, voodoo dolls and Santa Muerte.

When you start seeing skeletons, you’ll know you’ve found the witch market.

Ever since Duke and I stumbled upon a witch market in a corner of the souk in Marrakech, Morocco, we’ve been addicted.

What’s a witch market, you ask? It’s sort of like a farmers market — only with a lot less local produce and more skulls and potions. Filled as they are with often disturbing items, witchcraft markets appeal to our warped sensibilities.

“We noticed a life-size skeleton wearing a wedding dress, a string of pearls around its neck and a tiara atop its skull.

We had found the witch market.”

Our Uber dropped us off at the sprawling Mercado Sonora in Mexico City in front of a line of yellow awnings. At first we wondered if we would even be able to find the section that contained the witch market. Stall after stall stretched out before us, filled with brightly colored, super-sized stuffed animals like those you hope your honey will win for you at a carnival. Some stalls had lights swirling like a discotheque and housed banners and other decorations that screamed, “¡Feliz Cumpliaños!” Women sat under large cutouts of Disney princesses, Mickey Mouse and superheroes. Piñatas hung from the ceiling. Men tried to tempt us with rows of technicolor candies.

The back right corner of the Sonora Market has live animals in cages.

As we wandered toward the far right-hand corner of the massive market, we started noticing a disturbing trend: This was where live animals were sold. We witnessed a young boy dump a cardboard box of full of puppies onto the floor and hastily put them into a cage near crates packed with birds, lizards, cats, rabbits and goats.

I stopped to take a picture of a cage full of mangy-looking puppies, but a man wagged his finger at me, saying, “No fotos” in a stern voice.

“I’m not surprised,” Duke mumbled. “He doesn’t want documentation of how inhumane this is.”

It really was quite depressing. So we were relieved when, as we moved to the left, still at the back of the market, we noticed a life-size skeleton wearing a wedding dress, a string of pearls around its neck and a tiara atop its skull.

We knew we were in the right place. We had found the witch market.

The Catholic church isn’t fond of Santa Muerte and has called her worship blasphemous.

Santa Muerte and Santería

The figure we happened upon is Santa Muerte, the goddess of death, a popular figure in Mexico. The stall took up a corner space, more of a small boutique. We looked around, seeing strings of beads, skeletons carved from bone (Duke still regrets not having bought one), candles in glass containers and a stone head with cowry shells for its eyes and mouth. I called Duke over. This last item was just the type of unexpected and slightly disturbing thing that he would love. We of course purchased it, for 100 pesos, or $5.

By the way, at markets in Mexico City, unlike those in Southeast Asia or Morocco, for instance, you’re not expected to bargain. The prices are set, but that’s OK, as you’ll find that most of them are quite reasonable.

The man who ran the stall was friendly, and grabbed a pen and paper when I asked him to write down what the head is called.

“Elegua,” he scribbled. I later found out he’s the god of beginnings and endings in Santería. He’s a bit of a trickster, which explains why I was so drawn to him.

Stalls filled with Catholic icons are side by side with ones selling Santería and brujeria totems.

We made our way through the labyrinth of stalls, surprised that they didn’t connect in any sort of logical manner. You would wind through a narrow space and then find yourself at a dead end, having to backtrack. The market was pretty crowded when we were there on a Sunday morning — “These are all the naughty people who should be in church,” I told Duke — and there was still a bit of jostling in the corridors as people stopped to look at goods or tried to pass by. Every now and then, a vendor would appear, carrying a stack of large boxes, and you’d have to press yourself against the wall to let them pass. It wasn’t long before Duke was feeling claustrophobic.

But I wasn’t done exploring this weird and wonderful market.

You can buy a baby Jesus in all sizes and skin colors.

Brujeria Meets Catholicism

What’s strange about brujeria, or Mexican witchcraft, is that it exists alongside Catholic beliefs. Whereas the mere whiff of something witchy prompts Christians in the United States to scream, “Satan!” Mexicans are much more sanguine. In the heart of the witch market, you’ll find statues of saints and baby Jesus dolls, Virgins of Guadalupe and crucifixes galore right next to the scythe-wielding Santa Muerte, looking like the Grim Reaper’s soulmate.

Santería and similar religions started amongst descendants of African slaves in the Caribbean.

Mexican Catholics don’t see any problem with mixing the worship of Jesus and the Virgin Mary with magic potions.

As we wandered down a narrow corridor, something caught my attention: what was obviously a Barbie doll, entirely covered in red ribbon with a few nails stuck into it. The vendor told me it was a voodoo doll, but an expensive one, he said, apologetically. You see, it cost 100 pesos, or a whopping $5. He showed me a package of smaller, cheaply made dolls, pointing out how much more affordable they were. But I naturally had to have the other one.

You’ll see quite a few of these creepy but artistic dolls hanging in stalls. They’re representations of Santería deities.

Here’s Lucero Mundo, god of the crossroads and bestower of spiritual power.

At stalls in the witchcraft market, creepy dolls hung on the wall, some with their eyes and mouths sewn shut. One that immediately appealed to me had its face painted half red, half black. Sage smoke from a burning smudge stick filled the dark corridor, making me a little lightheaded. The vendor appeared intimidating — an intense young man with long hair, numerous piercings, tattoos down his arms and triangular studs in his earlobes. But he turned out to be friendly and wrote down the name of the god represented by the red-and-blacked-faced doll: Lucero Mundo, or Light of the World. He’s a deity from Palo, a Santería-like religion that originated in Cuba amongst descendants from the Congo. A god of the crossroads, Lucero witnesses everything, and without his consent, no spiritual power will flow. He seems connected with the aforementioned Elegua.

Whether you want money or love, there’s a potion you can buy in the witch market.

Potions and Notions

Brightly colored bottles and boxes promised the solution to any problem. Got a crush? Spray some Ven a Mi (Come to Me). Want a successful small business? Spritz some Llama Cliente (Call Customers).

I’m not sure if you’re supposed to drink these potions, but I wouldn’t put those toxic-looking, neon-colored bottles to my lips no matter how desperate I was.

Head to the back left corner of the Mercado Sonora to find the witch market.

“I was thinking there’d be more desiccated animals,” Duke sighed. These are the types of things that disappoint us. But then, as if he had conjured it by sheer willpower, we almost walked right into some sort of flayed ball of fur, which looked more like a cross between roadkill and beef jerky. It was hardly recognizable as having once been a small animal. We have a taxidermied squirrel climbing our wall, a dried-out bat in our living room and a desiccated chameleon inside our glass-topped coffee table. But this macabre monstrosity was too much, even for us. –Wally

Nacimientos, or nativity scenes, galore

Mercado Sonora and the Witch Market
Fray Servando Teresa de Mier 419
Merced Balbuena
15810 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Mexico