FRANCE

Marie Antionette, Fleas and the Origin of the Color Puce

A flea-ridden history of the strange hue, which varies from brownish purple to mauve.

Could this be the infamous dress that created the color puce?

Could this be the infamous dress that created the color puce?

It’s unlikely that you’ll ever find the color puce in a box of Crayola crayons. But did you know that Marie Antoinette, the last queen of France and sartorial rule-breaker, was responsible for starting a fashion trend inspired by the ignoble bloodsucking flea?

​​Reviled or admired, the Austrian-born dauphine seemed to spark strong emotions. After an initially warm reception, at a mere 14 years old, Marie Antoinette adopted extravagant tastes and frivolity that earned her a reputation as spoiled and vain. As a means of self-expression, the young queen ornamented herself in earnest with elaborate coiffures, plumage adornments and lavish attire. 

When Louis XVI was asked what he thought of his wife’s latest look, he replied, “C’est puce” — that is, flea-colored.

And so a new color was born.

She also liked to pretend to be a shepherdess in her faux-rustic village, the Hameau, built near the Petit Trianon on the grounds of Versailles. The enclave included thatched-roof cottages and a functioning farm, complete with stables, a pig sty and a hen house, where she would retreat by herself or with intimate friends. 

Her legacy continues to influence and inspire creatives more than two centuries after her beheading by the French revolutionaries at the age of 37. The Netflix series Emily in Paris mentions the mythical origin story of the champagne coupe glass, purportedly modeled after Marie Antoinette’s perfectly proportioned breasts.

A portrait of Marie Antoinette by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

A portrait of Marie Antoinette by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

Let Them Dress Like a Flea

Like champagne, the color puce (pronounced pooce) is rooted in French history and culture. The term was coined in 1778 and has an interesting origin. It’s defined as a brownish purple color. The etymology, however, is far from enticing — its name is French for flea, a reference, one imagines, to the tiny vampiric parasite’s belly full of blood. 

In Revolutionary France, color played a major role in publicly announcing who you were and what side you were on. Marie Antoinette’s sartorial whims set trends and came to symbolize the excess of the royals. Her unapologetically voracious appetite for fashion and extravagance became the stuff of legends. 

According to the biography of Marie Antoinette’s dressmaker, Rose Bertin, the queen had a brownish purple dress made. When Louis XVI was asked what he thought of his wife’s latest look, he replied, “C’est puce” — that is, flea-colored. And so a new color was born.

Did King Louis XVI say Marie Antoinette’s dress looked like a flea because of the color of the insect, or the blood it sucks?

Did King Louis XVI say Marie Antoinette’s dress looked like a flea because of the color of the insect, or the blood it sucks?

The Parisian bourgeoisie adopted puce in droves, as it was less cost prohibitive than lighter tints and hid stains well. The color was produced by combining madder root with a metallic salt or mordant, which deepened and fixed the dye to a textile. 

Puce became the “it” color of the summer of 1775, inspiring a myriad of hues, each with its own spin, from ventre de puce (flea belly), cuisse de puce (flea thigh) and even vielle puce (old flea).

Dyers and weavers struggled to keep up with demand. But fashion, as they say, is fickle. After only a few months, it was out of style. 

Strangely enough, in French you can call your sweetheart “ma puce” (my flea) as a term of endearment. 

Which puce is really puce? Pantone declares it to be a purplish brown, while others think it’s more of a mauve.

Which puce is really puce? Pantone declares it to be a purplish brown, while others think it’s more of a mauve.

On top of that, no one seems able to agree on the actual hue of puce. Pantone’s version, 19-1518 TPX, is more of a grayish-brown, while A Dictionary of Color, by A. Maerz and M. Rea Paul, describes it as a mauve pink. 

Wherever the color lands on the spectrum, it will always have as its claim to fame a connection to Marie Antionette and a bloodsucking parasite. –Duke

Notre-Dame Before the Fire

We passed by Notre-Dame de Paris every morning during our week-long visit. Now you can admire some photos of the famous cathedral before the damage from the 2019 fire.

Wally jumps for joy in the beautiful garden behind Notre-Dame Cathedral, which glows a warm pale yellow.

Wally jumps for joy in the beautiful garden behind Notre-Dame Cathedral, which glows a warm pale yellow.

It was the perfect morning tradition. In 2013 we visited Paris and stayed at our friends Michael and Kent’s apartment in Montparnasse. A few days into our trip my parents arrived and Duke and I would ride the Métro to meet my parents, who were staying at a cute little hotel on Île Saint-Louis. We got off on Île de la Cité and walked past Notre-Dame, before crossing the bridge to meet my mom and dad at the oh-so-Parisian Saint-Régis café at the foot of the street. 

Wally’s parents stayed on the neighboring isle, so Notre-Dame was a short walk away en route to the Métro.

Wally’s parents stayed on the neighboring isle, so Notre-Dame was a short walk away en route to the Métro.

We felt so lucky to have this morning ritual: a stroll past what is arguably the world’s most famous cathedral, with its beautiful gardens and statues of saints and gargoyles peering out from its façade. 

Saints alive! (Actually, the fact that they’re saints means they’re long dead.)

Saints alive! (Actually, the fact that they’re saints means they’re long dead.)

Gargoyles (chimères en français) do double duty: They scare away evil spirits and act as rainspouts.

Gargoyles (chimères en français) do double duty: They scare away evil spirits and act as rainspouts.

While impressive, the interior has always struck me as a bit too claustrophobic, gloomy and choked with incense — more suited to a mystery religion to honor a pagan deity than to inspire awe in the Catholic God. I’m much more of a Sacré-Cœur type of guy.

The sides of the cathedral are dark, lit only by candlelight.

The sides of the cathedral are dark, lit only by candlelight.

Sometimes we’d drop my parents off at their hotel in the evening. We saw the cathedral in all kinds of light. It was the backdrop to our vacation. 

An electrical short most likely caused the fire that damaged Notre-Dame in 2019.

An electrical short most likely caused the fire that damaged Notre-Dame in 2019.

Notre-Dame and the Fire of 2019

Because Notre-Dame was such an integral part of our trip and an iconic symbol of Paris, it was with great shock and sadness that I watched news footage of the fire that consumed the cathedral on April 15, 2019. It was horrifying and heartbreaking. 

The blaze started in the attic (who knew Notre-Dame even had an attic?!), causing the spire to plummet like a spear, piercing the stone vault of the 850-year-old cathedral. The most likely cause? An electrical short.

The spire, designed by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, melted from the heat of the blaze, plunging down into the heart of the church. It once pointed heavenward 295 feet high.

The spire, designed by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, melted from the heat of the blaze, plunging down into the heart of the church. It once pointed heavenward 295 feet high.

Two of the biggest issues from the fire are toxic lead from the melted spire and damage to the flying buttresses, which support the vaulted ceiling.

Two of the biggest issues from the fire are toxic lead from the melted spire and damage to the flying buttresses, which support the vaulted ceiling.

Les pompiers, the French firefighters, had been trained how to handle such an emergency. They used low-pressure hoses and focused on saving priceless artworks and the bell towers. 

While the damage wasn’t as devastating as it could have been, one of the major issues now is that the roof and spire were made of lead, which melted and poured the toxic liquid into the damaged building. Some of it formed stalactites of sorts that remain to this day. 

And the very structure of Notre-Dame is at risk: The architectural innovation that supports its vaulted ceiling, the flying buttresses, tottered dangerously, threatening to collapse the structure before being shored up by temporary wood bracing.

Here’s hoping that this magnificent cathedral is someday soon renovated to its former glory. In the meantime, here are some of the photos we took on our visit before the fire. –Wally

Notre-Dame served as the backdrop of Wally and Duke’s trip to Paris.

Notre-Dame served as the backdrop of Wally and Duke’s trip to Paris.

I never promised you a rose garden — but there’s one behind Notre-Dame.

I never promised you a rose garden — but there’s one behind Notre-Dame.

Duke in front of the bell towers, which were a priority for firefighters to save.

Duke in front of the bell towers, which were a priority for firefighters to save.

Duke puts Wally on a pedestal.

Duke puts Wally on a pedestal.

The carvings on the façade of Notre-Dame are quite ornate.

The carvings on the façade of Notre-Dame are quite ornate.

Notre-Dame is one of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture.

Notre-Dame is one of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture.

This guy has lost his head. Saint Denis of Paris was a 3rd century bishop who was decapitated for his religious beliefs.

This guy has lost his head. Saint Denis of Paris was a 3rd century bishop who was decapitated for his religious beliefs.

Adam and Eve — and the serpent, depicted as a temptress

Adam and Eve — and the serpent, depicted as a temptress

A tarnished bas-relief

A tarnished bas-relief

Sharp angles and monsters on Notre-Dame’s exterior

Sharp angles and monsters on Notre-Dame’s exterior

Creepy (but cool) gargoyles, their screams set in stone

Creepy (but cool) gargoyles, their screams set in stone

Medieval griffons form this geometric pattern.

Medieval griffons form this geometric pattern.

Sculptures of the kings of Judah line the façade of Notre-Dame, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Sculptures of the kings of Judah line the façade of Notre-Dame, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

One of the more hideous gargoyles seen at Notre-Dame

One of the more hideous gargoyles seen at Notre-Dame

The main aisle of the cathedral is narrow — though surely groundbreaking at the time of its construction.

The main aisle of the cathedral is narrow — though surely groundbreaking at the time of its construction.

Pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

Pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

A statue of Joan of Arc (known as Jeanne d’Arc in her native France)

A statue of Joan of Arc (known as Jeanne d’Arc in her native France)

H is for…?

H is for…?

The stained glass windows add vibrant splashes of color to the otherwise gloomy interior.

The stained glass windows add vibrant splashes of color to the otherwise gloomy interior.

Light a votive candle and admire one the famous Rose Windows.

Light a votive candle and admire one the famous Rose Windows.

Doubting Thomas pokes one of Jesus’ wounds after the resurrection.

Doubting Thomas pokes one of Jesus’ wounds after the resurrection.

A container in the cathedral is filled with letters people have written, one supposes, to God.

A container in the cathedral is filled with letters people have written, one supposes, to God.

A model of the cathedral

A model of the cathedral

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
6 Parvis Notre-Dame
Place Jean-Paul II
75004 Paris
France

 

The Quirky Charms of the L’Isle sur la Sorgue Sunday Market

Part flea market, part farmers market, stalls line the river that encircles this town in Provence known for antiques. 

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

We learned about L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from ma mère. She’s always been good at research and finding fun excursions as well as amazing places to stay on vacation. I still recall that she and her fellow librarians in Annapolis were among the first ones to realize the potential of what was then an upstart search engine named Google. 

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

While we were staying in Aix-en-Provence (those Provençals sure love their hyphens), the Shirl, as we affectionately refer to my mom — sometimes even to her face! — informed us of the Sunday market in a nearby medieval town named L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Most of the small towns in Provence have their charms, but what makes this one so downright adorable is the fact that it’s encircled by a river — hence its name, which references an island on the River Sorgue. The Sunday market stretches along the water’s edge halfway around the town.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Round and Round in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

We got up early on Sunday morning to catch a train to L’Isle. (I’m not sure if that’s what locals call it, but L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just too much of a mouthful to say every time. For the record, the town is pronounced, “Leel sur la Sorg.”)

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

Bridges crisscross the canals, and now and then you’ll pass large wooden wheels in the water, covered with beards of green algae. They’re now fenced off and just there for show, the mills they were once connected to long gone. Et bien sûr, with the canal surrounding the town, it has earned the predictable nickname “the Venice of Provence.” We were there back in 2017, but more recent photos reveal that they’ve run with this, and the river is now filled with gondolas. I’m not sure how I feel about that. Aw, heck, who am I kidding? Duke and I would have totally caught a ride in one.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

About 300 stalls are said to set up each Sunday, selling everything from secondhand goods to saucisson. 

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

Right as we entered the town, we passed a table with various representations of the Provençal mascot, the cicada. (Learn why this lovely part of France chose a bug as its symbol.) We admired an iron trivet shaped like a cicada. Not sure we wanted to lug it around all day, we uttered that famous phrase of many a traveler: “We’ll get it on the way back.” 

But then I remembered having been burned before: You never know where the day will take you, or if the vendor will sell out or pack it up early. So I forked over the requisite francs (actually, by this time it was probably euros, but that doesn’t have as nice a ring to it). The trivet still sits in the windowsill above our kitchen sink. 

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The Shirl’s Suitor

One section of the market opens up into a square filled with various stands selling food items. A diminutive man, who wasn’t even as tall as my 5’2” mother, with a prominent nose and a beaming smile, called out to us as we passed by. He zeroed in on the Shirl, and started flirting with her something fierce. He shamelessly ogled her, showering her with compliments, wrapping his arm around her back, unphased by the presence of my father. He was so full of energy and was so amusingly slick, we all just laughed at his antics. 

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

The samples and the flirting are free!

The samples and the flirting are free!

He was selling various tapenades and other spreads, and offered to have us try some free samples before realizing he had run out of bread. 

So he told us, “Un moment,“ and darted off to a nearby stall, where he snatched a baguette. It looked like he stole it, which cracked us up — though I’m sure he has an agreement with nearby vendors. 

He sliced the bread up, slathered on some of his colorful spreads and batted his eyes at the “belle madame.” He was so utterly charming and over the top, we felt obliged to purchase quite a few jars of his wares. 

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

At one point, the Shirl stopped to admire a scarf. It was blue, of course. We joke that my mom likes lots of colors: blue and white and…blue. 

She put the scarf down and moved on through the crowd. We waited till she was out of sight, and then Duke snatched the scarf and bought it for her as a Christmas present. He’s sneaky that way.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Gone Antiquing

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also known for its antique shops. The town’s reputation as an antiquing hub draws crowds from all over Europe, and prices tend to be high. Peter Mayle, he of A Year in Provence fame, famously groused, “The only thing you can’t get in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a bargain.”

Despite being steeped in the fancy heirlooms of the past, L’Isle has a playfulness to it. Most of the stores don’t take themselves too seriously. You’ll find a statue of a giraffe statue peeking its head up amongst birdcages or a smiling clown looking to have his finger pulled. 

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

Wally clowns around.

Wally clowns around.

We hit a bunch of shops after wandering through the market. One was situated right on the river’s edge. It seemed to balance precariously over the water, like the slightest push would cause it to totter into the Sorgue. We peered out the back door and chuckled over an amusing vignette: In the middle of the river, two chairs sat partially submerged at a table.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

Inside the two-level store chock-a-block with antique bric-a-brac, we rummaged through a bin of hand-painted numbered tiles until we found two 5s, which we passed off to my parents, who purchased them to use as their house number. 

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

We grabbed lunch at a café and sat on a small balcony over the river. The glass my beer came in was so cute, complete with a cicada, it somehow found its way in my bag. Karma ended up catching up with me, though. Because we hadn’t been back in our vacation rental for five minutes before the bag bumped into a wrought iron gazebo-like structure by the kitchen, and I heard the glass shatter. C’est la vie! –Wally

 

French Phrases About Food That Are Simply Scrumptious

There’s nothing sadder than a meal without cheese. Learn this and other sweet French food expressions and idioms. Just please don’t spit in the soup. 

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I’ve always loved expressions. They make language so much more colorful — and they can be cleverly tweaked into the most delightful, groan-inducing puns. 

Plus it’s fun to think about where the strange expressions came from. How did some of these phrases originate? In English, we say something that’s easy is a piece of cake — though you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Maybe we should stick to taking candy from a baby. Why do we go bananas when we’re in a pickle? 

There are just as many crazy idioms across the pond. Here are some French expressions that have to do with types of food: Eat your heart out — just don’t bite off more than you can chew!

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie.

But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.
Oh purée! You don’t know these expressions? Don’t worry. The carrots aren’t cooked — there’s still time to learn them.

Oh purée! You don’t know these expressions? Don’t worry. The carrots aren’t cooked — there’s still time to learn them.

Vegetables

C’est la fin des haricots.

What it translates to: It’s the end of the beans.

What it means: There’s nothing left; that’s the end.

avoir un coeur d’artichaut

What it translates to: to have the heart of an artichoke

What it means: to be unfaithful; to be sensitive

C’est pas tes oignons.

What it translates to: It’s not your onions.

What it means: none of your beeswax; none of your business

raconter des salades

What it translates to: to tell salads

What it means: to tell lies

Oh purée !

What it translates to: Oh, mashed potatoes!

What it means: Darn it!

faire une frite

What it translates to: to make a french fry

What it means: to slap someone on the butt

Les carottes sont cuites.

What it translates to: The carrots are cooked

What it means: What’s done is done; it’s too late.


mettre du beurre dans les épinards

What it translates to: to put butter in the spinach

What it means: to improve your finances; to earn a bit more

être dans les choux

What it translates to: to be in the cabbage

What it means: to be in a bad situation; to fail

 

poireauter

What it translates to: to “leek”

What it means: to wait a long time


C’est un navet !

What it translates to: It’s a turnip!

What it means: It’s a terrible movie.

I’m gonna bring my strawberry and tell you what I think: These French food expressions are just peachy!

I’m gonna bring my strawberry and tell you what I think: These French food expressions are just peachy!

Fruit

avoir la pêche 

What it translates to: to have the peach

What it means: to be full of energy, enthusiastic

ramener sa fraise

What it translates to: to bring one’s strawberry

What it means: to give your opinion

haut comme trois pommes

What it translates to: as high as three apples

What it means: to be short, small

tomber dans les pommes

What it translates to: to fall into the apples

What it means: to faint

rouge comme une tomate

What it translates to: to be as red as a tomato

What it means: to be embarrassed

couper la poire en deux

What it translates to: to cut the pear in half

What it means: to split the bill; to reach a compromise

avoir le melon; prendre le melon

What it translates to: to have the melon; to take the melon

What it means: to be sure of oneself, to be cocky

If you’re going to make a whole cheese about it and be milk soup, well, you can go cook an egg!

If you’re going to make a whole cheese about it and be milk soup, well, you can go cook an egg!

Dairy

avoir le beurre et l'argent du beurre 

What it translates to: to have the butter and the money to buy butter

What it means: to have your cake and eat it too

beurré 

What it translates to: buttered

What it means: wasted, drunk

ne pas avoir inventé le fil à couper le beurre

What it translates to: to not have invented the thread that cuts the butter

What it means: to be dumb, not the brightest

en faire tout un fromage

What it translates to: to make a whole cheese about it

What it means: to make a mountain out of a molehill, to unnecessarily make a big deal out of something

triste comme un repas sans fromage

What it translates to: sad like a meal without cheese

What it means: very sad

être soupe au lait

What it translates to: to be milk soup

What it means: to be quick-tempered

Va te faire cuire un œuf !

What it translates to: Go cook yourself an egg!

What it means: Get lost; leave me alone!

changer de crémerie

What it translates to: to change creameries

What it means: to take your business elsewhere

The French love their baguettes, so it’s not surprising there are a few expressions having to do with bread.

The French love their baguettes, so it’s not surprising there are a few expressions having to do with bread.

Bread

avoir du pain sur la planche

What it translates to: to have bread on the board

What it means: to have a lot to do

pour une bouchée de pain

What it translates to: for a mouthful of bread

What it means: for a small amount, cheaply

Ça ne mange pas de pain. 

What it translates to: This doesn’t eat bread. 

What it means: It couldn’t hurt. 

rouler dans la farine

What it translates to: to roll in the flour

What it means: to swindle

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie. But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie. But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.

Meals

cracher dans la soupe

What it translates to: to spit in the soup

What it means: to be ungrateful, to bite the hand that feeds you

une quiche

What it translates to: a quiche 

What it means: someone who is bad at something

avoir le cul bordé de nouilles

What it translates to: to have an ass surrounded by noodles

What it means: to be lucky

Personally, I think these expression really cut the mustard.

Personally, I think these expressions really cut the mustard.

Toppings and Condiments

à quelle sauce on va être mangé

What it translates to: in what sauce we’re going to be eaten

What it means: I don’t know how this’ll pan out; things don’t look good.

La moutarde me monte au nez.

What it translates to: I have mustard coming up my nose.

What it means: I’m annoyed; I’m angry.

tourner au vinaigre

What it translates to: to turn to vinegar

What it means: to go bad

Watering down wine is never a good thing.

Watering down wine is never a good thing.

Drinks

mettre de l’eau dans son vin

What it translates to: to put water in their wine

What it means: to tone it down

Here are a couple of dessert-themed expressions that really aren’t too sweet.

Here are a couple of dessert-themed expressions that really aren’t too sweet.

Sweets

casser du sucre sur le dos de quelqu’un

What it translates to: to break sugar on someone’s back

What it means: to badmouth someone; to talk about someone behind their back

Ce n’est pas de la tarte.

What it translates to: It’s not tarte.

What it means: It’s not going to be easy. 


Hope you find these expressions delectable! Go ahead — talk with your mouth full. –Wally


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MORE FRENCH LESSONS!

French Phrases About Animals

Why is having the cockroach being depressed? What does it mean when you say a drink is cat pee? Learn these and more beastly fun French expressions!


7 Reasons to Visit the French Island of Corsica

From the towns of Ajaccio and Calvi to beaches and mountains, there’s no shortage of things to do in Corsica, whether you want culture or outdoor adventure.

The French isle of Corsica has a culture influenced by both France and Italy.

The French isle of Corsica has a culture influenced by both France and Italy.

A paradise in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea — there’s no better way to describe Corsica. One of the 18 administrative regions of France, Corsica lies southeast of the French mainland, west of the Italian Peninsula and immediately north of the Italian island of Sardinia. 

The beautiful island is known far and wide for its dramatic mountain ranges, which cover two-thirds of it, and the pristine waters that will surely take your breath away. Aside from its magnificent landscape, the Collectivité Territoriale de Corse, as it’s officially known, boasts an incredibly rich history, showcased by the various ancient buildings that pepper the city, the winding cobbled streets, the flavorful cuisine, and the colorful art and music scenes. Here are seven of the best reasons why you should visit the French island of Corsica.

Corsica boasts a rich history, ancient buildings, winding cobbled streets, flavorful cuisine, and colorful art and music scenes.
The weather in Corsica is gorgeous year-round.

The weather in Corsica is gorgeous year-round.

1. The weather

Nothing beats a summer spent on Corsica — an island where you can enjoy hot, dry weather by the beach. Due to its location, this paradise enjoys a Mediterranean climate that has an average temperature of 27ºC (81ºF) inland and year-round sunshine that’s a welcome getaway for those who live in countries where a cold, harsh climate is the norm. 

For those of you who want to avoid crowds during the high season, September and October would be the best time to visit the island since the pleasant weather only drops to the mid to low 20s Celsius (high 60s to mid 70s Fahrenheit).

One of the best beaches on the island is Plage de Saleccia — you just might have to share your spot with a wild cow! Be careful: Don’t try to take a selfie with them. A woman was gored by those horns a few years back.

One of the best beaches on the island is Plage de Saleccia — you just might have to share your spot with a wild cow! Be careful: Don’t try to take a selfie with them. A woman was gored by those horns a few years back.

2. The beaches

From wide bays that lap upon smooth rocks to remote sandy beaches only accessible by boat, you will never run out of stunning spots to go to in Corsica. If you are after a serene and quiet trip, you can go to some of the undeveloped coastlines, such as Plage de Saleccia and Lotu Beach. 

If you are traveling with kids and want to enjoy the seaside with the magnificent Corsica land formations as the backdrop, try Roccapina and Palombaggia.

The terrain on Corsica allows for lots of adventure activities, including canyoneering (which we hadn’t heard of before!).

The terrain on Corsica allows for lots of adventure activities, including canyoneering (which we hadn’t heard of before!).

3. The outdoor activities

The perfect mix of land formations and bodies of water in Corsica provides tourists with ample opportunity to partake in a wide array of outdoor activities. For those thrill-seeking tourists out there, activities include parasailing, canyoneering, river rafting, 4x4 off-road tours and rock climbing. There are also plenty of activities for those who are a bit less extreme, such as horseback riding, fishing, canoeing, cycling and kayaking.

The cuisine of Corsica takes cues from France and Italy. If you’re lucky, you’ll happen upon a market of fresh-baked goods like this one.

The cuisine of Corsica takes cues from France and Italy. If you’re lucky, you’ll happen upon a market of fresh-baked goods like this one.

4. The cuisine

If you are a foodie with a love for all things Italian and French, then you would definitely enjoy the delectable dishes of Corsica. Thanks to its location, the island’s cuisine takes inspiration from both Italy and France. This then gave birth to traditional Corsican meals that are usually hearty, made of fresh seafood, local meats and locally produced dairy products like brocciu (ewe’s milk).

One of the most famous Corsican dishes is civet de sanglier, a wild boar and vegetable stew made with red wine.

One of the most famous Corsican dishes is civet de sanglier, a wild boar and vegetable stew made with red wine.

Some of the dishes that will surely take your Corsican vacation to the next level are civet de sanglier, a hearty wild boar stew made with onions, carrots, fennel and red wine, and agneau corse, lamb slow roasted with whole garlic cloves, fresh rosemary and potatoes.

Pay a visit to the Musée Fesch, itself a work of art.

Pay a visit to the Musée Fesch, itself a work of art.

5. The arts

On top of the awesome mountain ranges and impressive beaches, Corsica is also home to magnificent art galleries and august historical establishments. Two museums you wouldn’t want to miss are Musée Fesch in Ajaccio and Musée d’Archéologie d’Aleria in Aleria.

The Musée d’Archéologie d’Aleria is housed in the historic Fort de Matra.

The Musée d’Archéologie d’Aleria is housed in the historic Fort de Matra.

While the Musée Fesch is a 19th-century palace that houses one of the finest Napoleonic collections in all of France, the Musée d’Archéologie is situated in the Fort of Matra, which was constructed by the Genoese in the 14th century and houses the various artifacts discovered at the site.

Before Napoleon became emperor of France (and liked to tuck his hand into this shirt), he was a newborn babe on the island of Corsica.

Before Napoleon became emperor of France (and liked to tuck his hand into his shirt), he was a newborn babe on the island of Corsica.

6. The historical sites

After a fulfilling art trip, you can go on a historical tour of Corsica. Maison Bonaparte was the ancestral home of the Bonaparte family from 1682 to 1923. Here you can see lavish family rooms, galleries and drawing rooms as well as the bedroom of Madame Mère, where Napoléon was born. 

Visit the Maison Bonaparte to see the bedroom where Napoleon was born.

Visit the Maison Bonaparte to see the bedroom where Napoleon was born.

Tour the Calvi Citadel, which offers views of the port.

Tour the Calvi Citadel, which offers views of the port.

Visible from the beaches, the Calvi Citadel reveals the deep influences of the Genoese rule in Corsica through the different bastions that were once home to the Genoese governor and are now used by the legendary Foreign Legion.

Corsica offers scenic vistas, from rustic villages to rugged mountains.

Corsica offers scenic vistas, from rustic villages to rugged mountains.

7. The flora and fauna

Corsica is more than just an island that can be eye-candy for many tourists around the world: It is also home to some of the world’s rarest animals and plants.

Keep an eye out for the endangered (and adorably named) mouflons.

Keep an eye out for the endangered (and adorably named) mouflon.

You might stumble upon a herd of mountain goats on a hike through the hills.

You might stumble upon a herd of mountain goats on a hike through the hills.

The best way to go on a nature trip in Corsica is by visiting the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse. First opened in 1972, the park will give you the chance to see some of the most endangered animals on the planet, such as the hoofed mammals known as mouflons and Corsican red deer.

If you can’t visit Corsica in person, you can always explore it from the comfort of your home, thanks to stunning drone photography.

If you can’t visit Corsica in person, you can always explore it from the comfort of your home, thanks to stunning drone photography.

A Virtual Tour of Corsica

Given the travel restrictions from the COVID-19 pandemic, a lot of people might find it hard to get to Corsica in the coming months. Fortunately, there are many ways to get a taste of Corsica without physically going there. For instance, you can listen to some of the best musicians from Corsica through a Spotify playlist curated by National Geographic. The playlist features songs by the vocal groups A Filetta and Voce Vetu.

Corsica, France has much to offer, whether you’re a boater, outdoor enthusiast or culture lover.

Corsica, France has much to offer, whether you’re a boater, outdoor enthusiast or culture lover.

You can also count on drone technology, which has made it possible for virtually anyone to see magnificent views of the world’s best travel destinations from the comforts of their home. Through drone cameras and unmanned aerial vehicles, you can see sweeping takes of beautiful vistas and can explore places no human has ever been able to visit. Many such videos have been shot of Corsica’s one-of-a-kind landscape, giving you a taste of what to expect when you do visit:

Tour de Corse en drone (4K) !

The astonishing island of Corsica is only one of the many majestic places France has to offer. To make your French trip count, read about the different beautiful destinations. The country has perfect spots for couples, history junkies, nature lovers and all kinds of travelers. –Shannon Nichol

 

Petit Palais: 6 Fun Facts About This Paris Attraction

Looking for not-so-typical things to do in Paris? Visit this gorgeous palace art museum where the garden café and iron staircases are works of art themselves.

Le Petit Palais (and le Grand Palais across the street) were built as permanent fixtures for the 1900 World Exhibition

Le Petit Palais (and le Grand Palais across the street) were built as permanent fixtures for the 1900 World Exhibition.

There are so many sites to see in Paris that even after a week, we felt we had barely scratched the surface. There are the biggies (the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, Notre-Dame) and there are the ones that appeal to Duke’s and my warped sensibilities (the Catacombs, Père Lachaise Cemetery).

And then there are the attractions that make what I like to call the B list. These are the ones that are great to see once you’ve ticked some of the others off your list. Especially if you’ve visited Paris before, you’ve got an opportunity to hit some of the lesser-known sights. You’ll find that there are still so many of these that it can difficult to narrow down even the B list.

Beautiful bas-relief sculptures and amazing metalwork frame the entrance to le Petit Palais

Beautiful bas-relief sculptures and amazing metalwork frame the entrance to le Petit Palais.

Le Petit Palais (literally, the Little Palace) is one such site. My mom’s friend had recently been to Paris and she raved about how much she enjoyed this smaller, gorgeous art museum. It’s one of those places we wouldn’t have added to our itinerary if we hadn’t gotten this word-of-mouth recommendation.

But we spent a couple of highly enjoyable hours in this ornate mansion and definitely suggest putting it on your B list.

Here are some fun facts about the Petit Palais.

 

1. Le Petit Palais was built for the 1900 World Exhibition.

Like its big brother across the Avenue Winston Churchill, the Grand Palais, the structure was intended to stand the test of time, instead of the temporary buildings so often constructed for world’s fairs.

Both sit near another World Exhibition project to beautify the city, the bridge called le Pont Alexandre III. Designed by Charles Girault, the palace consists of four wings around a colonnade that borders a semicircular garden. It took over 20 years to complete.

Part of the intricate façade of the Petit Palais. (Duke and Wally have a soft spot for squirrels)

Part of the intricate façade of the Petit Palais. (Duke and Wally have a soft spot for squirrels.)

2. Fair officials liked the plan because it dealt with what they viewed as an eyesore.

One of the leftover buildings from the 1855 World Fair, the Palais de l’Industrie, ran parallel to the Champs Élysées and blocked views of Les Invalides (where the tomb of Napoleon resides). So when it was suggested to demolish it and build two palaces that fit with the new development plans for Paris, officials green-lit the project.

La Vachalcade by Fernand Pelez, 1896 

La Vachalcade by Fernand Pelez, 1896 

3. In 1902, it became an art museum.

The Petit Palais’ permanent collection of artwork spans from antiquity to 1920. In one room you may find a 19th century painting of a famous Parisian food market, while in another you’ll be looking at medieval illuminated manuscripts or ancient Greek pottery, Paris Perfect points out.

Porteurs de farine, scène parisienne by Louis-Robert Carrier-Belleuse, 1885

Porteurs de Farine, Scène Parisienne by Louis-Robert Carrier-Belleuse, 1885

Sometimes we enjoy going to a smaller museum, where you can see the entire collection in a couple of hours, as opposed to the overwhelming Louvre, for instance, where you could wander for over a week and still not see everything. 

An added bonus? The Petit Palais is free!

The museum is truly breathtaking, with art to be found every direction you look, including up

The museum is truly breathtaking, with art to be found every direction you look, including up.

4. Le Petit Palais is famous for its murals.

The Petit Palais is officially known as the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris (the Paris Fine Arts Museum).

Albert Besnard was given the task of painting four decorative murals for the entrance hall. He named his works of art Matter, Thought, Formal Beauty and Mysticism and worked on them from 1903 to 1910.

Heads-up! Some of the artwork is found on the ceiling

Heads-up! Some of the artwork is found on the ceiling.

Don’t forget to look up. Not all of the artwork hangs on the walls. Some of the most impressive pieces are part of the palace itself. The painted ceilings took from 1909 to 1924 to complete. The North Pavilion’s were painted by Ferdinand Humbert, while those in the South Pavilion are by Georges Picard.

There are two main galleries that also have murals. One shows Paris of the past, from the Battle of Lutetia (fought at the bequest of Caesar) to the French Revolution, while the other illustrates a more modern Paris.

Also keep an eye out for the 16 plaster busts set into niches. They’re of famous artists, including Eugène Delacroix.

You have to make sure you see Girault’s gorgeous lace-like iron staircase

You have to make sure you see Girault’s gorgeous lace-like iron staircase.

5. The spiraling staircases are true works of art.

Make sure you explore the spiral staircases at Petit Palais. We found one in the back corner and were mesmerized by its graceful metallic curves. The designer, Girault, is credited with creating some of the finest wrought iron work ever. He also designed the golden gate at the entrance as well.

Wally wouldn’t mind living in a place like this

Wally wouldn’t mind living in a place like this.

Now this is the kind of staircase you can make a grand entrance on!

Now this is the kind of staircase you can make a grand entrance on!

Duke and I were absolutely obsessed with the staircase. The banisters and balustrade consist of curlicues and the spiraling tendrils of plantlife. How the heck did Girault take a hard material like iron and make it look like delicate vines? You have to see this for yourself.

There’s a cute café in the central courtyard of the Petit Palais, along with a lush garden

There’s a cute café in the central courtyard of the Petit Palais, along with a lush garden.

6. The courtyard garden is a gorgeous spot to have lunch or take a coffee break.

Our other favorite spot at the palace is le Jardin du Petit Palais, the enclosed garden café. Even though the building is on one of Paris’ major thoroughfares, you’d never know it. Lush plants and a curved row of columns draped in golden garlands provide cover in this secret spot in the central courtyard of the museum.

Grab a bite to eat or a drink (caffeinated or alcoholic) and soak in this peaceful oasis, with its reflecting pools, tropical foliage and stunning mosaic floors. What’s cool is that you’ll see the other side of the palace, where you enter, across the way, as if it’s an entirely different building. –Wally


Consider planning your trip with the TripHobo itinerary planner. Add in your airfare, hotel or homestay and the things you want to see each day — and it’ll even help plan your budget.


Wally attempts to blend in with the statue. Doesn’t look just like a nature goddess?

Wally attempts to blend in with the statue. Doesn’t look just like a nature goddess?

 

Le Petit Palais
Avenue Winston Churchill
75008 Paris, France

The Doors of Provence

A pictorial journey through les portes de Provence, accompanied by quotes about doors.

doorsofprovence1.jpg

During the week we spent based in Aix-en-Provence, France, we practically overdosed on adorable. I mean, those people are doing something right. The towns are quaint and filled with markets. You’ll pass through small squares with fountains in the middle.

doorsofprovence2.jpg

And then there are the doors. We couldn’t help but snap photos on every street we strolled along. Many of the doors are surprisingly narrow. Many have intricate stone archways with faces guarding the entrance. Many sported intricately carved panels. Some opened in the middle, like giant shutters. A few had somewhat intimidating knockers. And most were of a deep brown wood, though now and then you’d see one painted a blue as bright as the Provençal sky.

doorsofprovence3.jpg

Here are our favorite doors from Aix and its environs, paired with quotes about this architectural detail that never fails to captivate. Step right in. –Wally

There are so many doors to open. I am impatient to begin.
–Daniel Keyes, “Flowers for Algernon”
Doors are funny things.
Some lead to somewhere exciting and wonderful, while others lead to the mundane and ordinary. Some, because they are gaudy and ornate, usher us into the land of greed and money. But many look unassuming and plain, yet hidden behind their simplicity one can find love; warmth; a cozy fire; a home cooked meal and a beautiful family.
It’s these doors I search for in life and it’s these doors that I shall find.
–Anthony T. Hincks
I feel very adventurous. There are so many doors to be opened, and I’m not afraid to look behind them.
–Elizabeth Taylor
Windows open out onto the universe around you, but doors will take you to where your imagination lies.
–Anthony T. Hincks
If you feel you have to open a particular door, open it, otherwise all your life that door will haunt your mind!
–Mehmet Murat İldan
A smile will open more doors than what a frown will.
–Anthony T.Hincks
If God had to build a door, it’s because we erected a wall.
–Craig D. Lounsbrough

Discover the Charms of La Ciotat

A little-known port in the South of France, where you can hike up to Parc du Mugel botanic gardens and see the Eden Théâtre, where the Lumière Brothers screened the first moving picture.

An on-the-fly decision brought us to La Ciotat, France

An on-the-fly decision brought us to La Ciotat, France

The plan was to take a day trip to Aubagne in the South of France. But because of the all-too-common and unpredictable rail strike, we were unable to take the train. So Wally, his parents and I decided we’d try out the bus. We bought tickets and boarded the 72 bus from Aix.

The picturesque port of La Ciotat

The picturesque port of La Ciotat

During the ride, Wally struck up a conversation with an adorable young woman with large expressive eyes and chestnut-colored hair tousled in a loose braid. She asked us in French where we were going, and when she heard that our plan was to hit Aubagne, she instead suggested La Ciotat, saying, “It’s super!” pronouncing the word “soo-pair.”

It was here that Auguste and Louis Lumière screened their movie, ‘Arrival of a Train at La Ciotat Station,’ which sent some viewers running from their seats in terror.
Many of the buildings of Provence are pastel-colored, with shuttered windows

Many of the buildings of Provence are pastel-colored, with shuttered windows

We decided to follow her advice; after all, she knows the region better than we did. And so we got off the bus early, to explore La Ciotat.

Duke on the beach at La Ciotat

Duke on the beach at La Ciotat

The charming seaside town was the birthplace of cinema and the setting for many of the pioneering Lumière brothers’ first moving pictures. The quaint old port is now filled with luxury yachts and fishing boats bobbing upon the gentle waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Yachts, sailboats and seagulls in a postcard-perfect setting

Yachts, sailboats and seagulls in a postcard-perfect setting

A delightful place to spend an afternoon

A delightful place to spend an afternoon

Fishing boats line the harbor at La Ciotat

Fishing boats line the harbor at La Ciotat

Apparently the town also holds a yearly festival in October to celebrate its miraculous immunity from the Great Plague of 1720. Nearby Marseille did not fare so well and lost about 50% of its population! Historians believe that the ancient fortified stone walls surrounding the hamlet acted as a barrier to the wave of destruction caused by the bubonic plague, helping the townsfolk of La Ciotat to avoid a terrible fate.

Église Notre-Dame de l'Assomption

Église Notre-Dame de l'Assomption

Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption

Once you arrive in La Ciotat, you have a choice of adventures. If you make your way from the port like we did, you’ll pass the town’s largest church, Our Lady of the Assumption, with its single belltower. Built at the start of the 17th century, it has a restrained Romanesque style façade. Pale rose-colored limestone used to construct the church came from the ancient quarries of La Couronne.

Unfortunately, we were unable to see inside, as the doors were locked.

Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption
25 Rue Adolphe Abeille

Eden Théâtre, where the first movie was screened

Eden Théâtre, where the first movie was screened

Eden Théâtre

Built in 1889 and facing the Mediterranean seafront, the landmark Eden Théâtre, with its butter-yellow façade, is the world’s oldest surviving public movie theater in operation.

It was here that Auguste and Louis Lumière screened their black-and-white silent movie, Arrival of a Train at La Ciotat Station, which shows a steam train pulling into a station. The scene certainly made quite an impression, sending some viewers running from their seats in terror as the image of an oncoming train hurtled towards them.

Eden Théâtre
25 Boulevard Georges Clémenceau

The gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean

The gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean

The botanic garden of Parc du Mugel is worth the hike uphill

The botanic garden of Parc du Mugel is worth the hike uphill

Parc du Mugel

Wally and I decided to check out the botanic garden of Parc du Mugel, while Shirley and Dave explored the small cobblestone-lined streets. The park is quite a hike but ended up being a highlight of our trip.

Since we weren’t completely sure where we were going, we stopped in at Au Poivre d’Ane, a bookstore, to ask directions to the park. A white cat named Dickens slept in the front window. The shopkeeper told us to follow the Avenue des Calanques until we reached the iron gates at the end and becomes Avenue du Mugel.

As we walked up the gradual incline of the road, we passed derelict port buildings covered in graffiti. A fine wire mesh, presumably to prevent erosion, covers the lower half of the cliffs like a hairnet keeping errant stones and soil in place.

When we reached the top, we were rewarded with the natural splendor of Parc du Mugel.

Graffiti decorates the walls along the thin slivers of rocky beaches

Graffiti decorates the walls along the thin slivers of rocky beaches

The Park’s History

In 1923, the land was purchased by Marseille coal merchant Louis Fouquet. A man of considerable wealth, Fouquet created a great arboretum, planting plane trees, cork oaks, chestnut trees, bamboos, mimosas and bougainvilleas.

The town eventually bought back the entire property, and in 1982, the nature preserve was opened to the public.

Wally went in the water. It was cold

Wally went in the water. It was cold

Located at the foot of a massive calanque, or seaside cliff, the 270-foot-high Bec de l’Aigle, Eagle’s Beak, shelters the site from the mistral, the powerful, cold dry wind that blows through the Rhône Valley to the Mediterranean coast. The Bec is composed of a conglomerate called poudingue or puddingstone. The “pudding” is made up of a fine-grained sediment composed of silt and limestone, flecked with small round pebbles the color of pomegranate seeds.

Elderly sunbathers with dark, leathery skin are a common sight in the South of France

Elderly sunbathers with dark, leathery skin are a common sight in the South of France

Wally and I followed a steep but shaded trail filled with chestnut trees, Aleppo pines and laurels before reaching the belvedere, a fancy name for a lookout point, to enjoy the panoramic view of the sun-dappled Mediterranean Sea. It was worth the effort.

Fishermen try to catch their dinner on the shores of La Ciotat

Fishermen try to catch their dinner on the shores of La Ciotat

The park has an impluvium irrigation system, which collects rainwater runoff for water-thirsty plants, and calades, retaining walls hidden by the lush greenery that act as ribs along the slope to hold back the earth in certain areas.

These lovingly arranged gardens contain wildflowers, cactuses, roses, aromatic and medicinal plants as well as a citrus fruit orchard.

Parc du Mugel
Calanque du Mugel

A pleasant stroll around the port 

A pleasant stroll around the port 

If you’re in the Aix or Marseille area and want to take an off-the-beaten path, follow our bus acquantaince’s advice and visit La Ciotat. The charming town, with its beautiful landscape and historic theater, deserves a visit for a few hours. –Duke

Windows with laundry hanging outside are another common sight in Provence

Windows with laundry hanging outside are another common sight in Provence

A Tour of the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur

Looking for things to do in Aix-en-Provence? Travel through time at this historic church.

The Cathédral Saint Sauveur is one of the highlights of Aix-en-Provence, France.

The Cathédral Saint Sauveur is one of the highlights of Aix-en-Provence, France.

Cathédrale Saint Sauveur
34 Place des Martyrs-de-la-Résistance
13100 Aix-en-Provence, France

Looking through the Gothic nave into what’s known as the choir

Looking through the Gothic nave into what’s known as the choir

Tucked amongst the pastel-colored 17th century mansions and narrow streets of the charming vielle ville, or old town, of Aix-en-Provence, France lies one of its oldest and most interesting monuments, the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur. (Try pronouncing it something like, “Seh So-Vurr.) Rising majestically, it occupies the site where the ancient forum of Roman Aquae Sextiae once stood.

During the French Revolution, the statues of the kings of France were decapitated.
Good things come to those who wait: Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century and went on into the 19th century.

Good things come to those who wait: Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century and went on into the 19th century.

A Brief History of Saint Sauveur

Located at a point along what was the Via Aurelia, the principal highway from the Iberian Peninsula to Asia Minor during the dominition of the Roman Empire, the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur evolved in fits and starts, beginning in the 5th century. Delays between the laying of its foundation and its completion due to wars, la peste (bubonic plague) and lack of financing bear witness to the amalgam of ecclesiastical architectural styles that make up the religious landmark.

Did Jesus really knock up Mary Magdalene, who gave birth to their kid…in the South of France?!

Did Jesus really knock up Mary Magdalene, who gave birth to their kid…in the South of France?!

Saint Maximinus and Mary Magdalene’s Voyage

According to Christian tradition, Saint Maximinus arrived in Provence from Bethany, a village near Jerusalem, accompanied by Mary Magdalene on a rudderless boat belonging to her brother, Lazarus. It was expected that they would perish at sea — however, the voyage brought them to the southern coast of France, landing in the city of Marseilles, where they achieved success in converting the French people to Christianity. In fact, Maximinus became the first Archbishop of Aix. He built a modest chapel here and dedicated it to Saint Sauveur, Christ the Savior.

There’s a popular theory (written about in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code) that says Mary Magdalene was pregnant at the time of her journey — with the baby daddy being none other than Christ himself! The descendants of that child eventually married into the French royal family and started the Merovingian dynasty.

ANOTHER “DA VINCI CODE” CONNECTION: Saint-Sulpice and the Mystery of the Rose Line

Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century with the baptistery.

Construction of Saint Sauveur began in the 5th century with the baptistery.

The Baptistery Rotunda

The oldest part of Saint Sauveur is the baptistery, which was built at the beginning of the 5th century and predates the current cathedral by almost 700 years. As the town grew, the cathedral was renovated in the 16th century in the Romanesque style, evidence of the growing economic clout of the Catholic diocese.

This is the area off to the right when you enter the cathedral, and indeed, it has an ancient feel to it.

This area of Saint Sauveur is thought to have been built atop a temple to Apollo.

This area of Saint Sauveur is thought to have been built atop a temple to Apollo.

Allegedly, French historian Jean Scholastique Pitton uncovered an artifact, the orphaned leg of a statue, while excavating the site. He presumed this to belong to the sun god Apollo, and this became the origin of the Provençal myth that the church was built atop a pagan Roman temple dedicated to Apollo.

The eight sides of the baptismal font represent regeneration — you’ll see octagons all over this part of the church.

The eight sides of the baptismal font represent regeneration — you’ll see octagons all over this part of the church.

Eight slender columns of granite and green marble with Corinthian capitals surround the octagonal Merovingian baptismal basin. It was fed by the warm waters coming from the Roman baths. Its eight sides are a symbolic number of regeneration.

As the cathedral was enlarged over the centuries, it became a mishmash of three main architectural styles.

As the cathedral was enlarged over the centuries, it became a mishmash of three main architectural styles.

A Tale of Three Naves

The cathedral consists of three naves, compositionally connected to one another but nevertheless clearly distinguishable. The north is in the Baroque style, the south Romanesque, which served as the main nave prior to the construction of the central Gothic nave.

 

Romanesque Nave

At the beginning of the 12th century, the principal nave was constructed next to the baptistery in the Romanesque style and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The front of the nave was demolished during the 15th century and replaced with a new Gothic façade and bell tower.

The cloister, just beyond the baptistery and accessed through the Romanesque nave, was built next to the cathedral between the late 12th century and the beginning of the 13th century. It was reduced in size in the early 18th century to expand the west corridor. At the corners, pillars are decorated with bas-reliefs depicting the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John.

 

Gothic Nave

About 200 years later, further expansion occurred, and a second massive Gothic nave and apse were added. The wings of the transept were begun in 1285 and completed in 1316. Bay by bay, the Romanesque church was embellished and transformed in the Gothic style. This is the area you’ll see first if you walk straight into the cathedral.

There’s a real organ — and a fake one added for the sake of symmetry.

There’s a real organ — and a fake one added for the sake of symmetry.

Baroque Nave

Just to the left of the Gothic nave as you enter the church, you’ll come to the small Baroque nave. To either side are green and gold organ cases in the Louis XV style, built by Jean-Esprit Isnard. The instrumental part by De Ducroquet dates from 1855. Both are listed historical monuments. An identical but false organ chest was built on the opposite side — just for the sake of symmetry.

Three saints can be found in the Baroque nave, including Marguerite of Antioch, off to the right, with an unusual-looking dragon.

Three saints can be found in the Baroque nave, including Marguerite of Antioch, off to the right, with an unusual-looking dragon.

A fascinating stone altarpiece commissioned by the Aygosi family, originally installed in the church of the Carmelites in Aix, can be seen in the Baroque aisle. Carved from stone by Audinet Stephani and installed in 1823, it depicts a variety of saints: Marcel, Anne with the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus and Marguerite of Antioch emerging from the shoulders of a dragon who had swallowed her whole.

Stained glass saints in Saint Sauveur

Stained glass saints in Saint Sauveur

Apse and Artwork

The cathedral underwent extensive renovation in the 19th century. The nave was redecorated with painted and sculpted neo-Gothic elements added between 1857 and 1862.

In the Gothic nave, you’ll find a modern cathedra, a throne for the bishop. We think it looks more like something he’d take a dump on.

In the Gothic nave, you’ll find a modern cathedra, a throne for the bishop. We think it looks more like something he’d take a dump on.

The choir gallery of the Gothic nave contains the high altar with a pair of carved giltwood angels, a modern sculptural cathedra, or bishop’s throne, which looks a bit like a gray tankless toilet backed by three wavy, glittering bronze panels symbolic of the Holy Trinity. Nineteenth century stained glass windows feature the coats of arms of high-ranking church clergy.

Check to see if the Triptych of the Burning Bush, by Nicolas Froment, will be on display when you visit.

Check to see if the Triptych of the Burning Bush, by Nicolas Froment, will be on display when you visit.

The cathedral’s most famous work is the Triptych of the Burning Bush by Nicolas Froment. Commissioned by King René for his funerary chapel in the church of Les Grands-Carmes, it is considered one of the most beautiful 15th century paintings in Europe. Painted in 1475 and 1476, it has resided in the Cathédrale Saint Sauveur since the 19th century. Due to its fragility, they only open the case on specific days; sadly, ours was not one of those days.

Look for the Roman prophetesses lining the arch of the main entrance, among other sculptures.

Look for the Roman prophetesses lining the arch of the main entrance, among other sculptures.

Western Façade

With the completion of the nave, attention was drawn to the western façade, which was demolished and replaced in the Gothic style. Figures representing the Apostles flank the cathedral doors. Above the portal are the figures of 12 sibyls, pagan fortune tellers from antiquity, surrounded by foliage, fruit and flowers.

Holy Savior! They built a church for you!

Holy Savior! They built a church for you!

During the French Revolution, the statues on the façade, believed to depict the kings of France, were decapitated, and the heads were lost. The current ones are replicas.

Careful, Saint Michael! I know you’re busy killing the Devil, but we don’t want you falling off the roof!

Careful, Saint Michael! I know you’re busy killing the Devil, but we don’t want you falling off the roof!

The centerpiece of the façade is a statue of the Archangel Saint Michael vanquishing Satan with a cross, made in 1507 by sculptor Jean Paumier.

 

If you’re in Aix-en-Provence, pull yourself away from the delightful open-air markets to spend an hour or so exploring the choose-your-own-architectural-adventure of the Cathédral Saint Sauveur. It’s a bit like traveling through time, as you make your way from the ancient baptistery to the modern bishop’s throne. –Duke

The Secrets of Saint-Sulpice

Dan Brown got some details wrong in The Da Vinci Code, but this large church is still worth a visit — especially if you’re planning to hit the Luxembourg Gardens.

If you’re in Saint-Germain-des-Près or visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, be sure to stop by Saint-Sulpice Church.

If you’re in Saint-Germain-des-Près or visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, be sure to stop by Saint-Sulpice Church.

Église Saint-Sulpice
12 Place Saint-Sulpice
75005 Paris, France

It might be the second-biggest church in Paris, but Saint-Sulpice isn’t a major tourist attraction — now that Da Vinci Code fever has died down

It might be the second-biggest church in Paris, but Saint-Sulpice isn’t a major tourist attraction — now that Da Vinci Code fever has died down

  • Saint-Sulpice is the second-largest church in Paris, behind Notre-Dame.

  • It’s located in the 6th arrondissement, in the fashionable Saint-Germain-des-Près district.

  • The Catholic church is dedicated to Saint Sulpicius the Pious, a 7th century bishop of Bourges, who spoke out against the Merovingian kings.

  • Construction of the church ran from 1646 to 1745, dragging out for a century mostly due to inconsistent funding. It’s done in a muted Baroque style.

  • Saint-Sulpice was where the S&M enthusiast the Marquis de Sade and the poet Charles Baudelaire were baptized, and it hosted the wedding of author Victor Hugo.

  • It boasts iconic mismatched towers.

  • The church is home to one of the most magnificent organs in the world.

  • It’s known as the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, or Left Bank.

  • Saint-Sulpice became even more famous by being featured in a scene in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code involving its gnomon, an astronomical instrument erroneously depicted as the site of the Rose Line.

  • How do you pronounce Saint-Sulpice? Try saying “Seh Sool-Peez.”

The fountain was built by Louis Visconti in the mid-1800s.

The fountain was built by Louis Visconti in the mid-1800s.

We had spent the morning wandering the Luxembourg Gardens. Our friends Kent and Michael, who live in Paris, suggested we make the short walk to see l’Église Saint-Sulpice. We’re glad we did.

In The Da Vinci Code, Dan Brown calls the gnomon the Paris Meridian, or the Rose Line — but apparently that’s pure fiction.
Wally never misses a chance to photograph depictions of lions.

Wally never misses a chance to photograph depictions of lions.

Fontaine Saint-Sulpice

A block from the gardens, we entered a small square with a fountain dominating the space. It’s quite an impressive work, with lions lying down but roaring grumpily, just like our cat Caribou. The Fontaine Saint-Sulpice was constructed between 1843 and 1848 by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed Napoleon’s tomb.

The impressive fountain in front of Saint-Sulpice, with one of its mismatched towers in the background

The impressive fountain in front of Saint-Sulpice, with one of its mismatched towers in the background

Wally, far right, and his friends at the Fontaine Saint-Sulpice

Wally, far right, and his friends at the Fontaine Saint-Sulpice

At the top, in a rectangular structure built of arches, four assumably famous dudes sit majestically, starting out in each of the cardinal directions. Apparently, they were all created by different sculptors and represent religious figures who were known for having the gift of gab.

Saint-Sulpice features prominently in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code.

Saint-Sulpice features prominently in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code.

Église Saint-Sulpice

The Church of Saint-Sulpice now stands where a small Romanesque church once catered to the neighborhood, long before the Saint-Germain-des-Près district was home to the existentialists (Sartre and the gang) or the posh hot spot it is today.

Thinking of changing careers? Pray to Saint Sulpicius, to whom the church is dedicated; he’s the patron saint of delayed vocations. (The Martyrdom of Saint Sulpicius, Eugene Delacroix, circa 1847)

Thinking of changing careers? Pray to Saint Sulpicius, to whom the church is dedicated; he’s the patron saint of delayed vocations. (The Martyrdom of Saint Sulpicius, Eugene Delacroix, circa 1847)

Like many large churches, it took a long time to build — about a century — mainly due to touch-and-go funding, with various architects contributing different designs along the way. Construction began in 1646 but stalled from 1678 to 1719. It then resumed, mostly wrapping up by 1745.

A funerary niche at Saint-Sulpice

A funerary niche at Saint-Sulpice

Some of the statues at the church are simply heavenly.

Some of the statues at the church are simply heavenly.

Nicknamed the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche (Left Bank), Saint-Sulpice is one of the largest churches in Paris, second only to Notre-Dame. Its design is actually quite plain for the typically frilly and ornate Baroque style. You’ll also notice that it’s slightly asymmetrical, as the south tower was never finished. Construction was interrupted by the French Revolution and never completed. Stacks of open colonnades line the exterior, evoking the Roman Colosseum.

Light a candle and say a prayer, even if you’re not religious — it certainly can’t hurt, right?

Light a candle and say a prayer, even if you’re not religious — it certainly can’t hurt, right?

Saint-Sulpice Church is renowned for its massive organ, considered one of the finest (and largest) in the world. It dates back to 1781 and was the highlight of Aristide Cavaillé-Coll’s career. Because of this impressive instrument, concerts are frequently held in the church.

A down and out man in front of the church

A down and out man in front of the church

A wedding was taking place at the far front of the church. We caught the bride and her father as they headed up there.

A wedding was taking place at the far front of the church. We caught the bride and her father as they headed up there.

Nowhere near as popular as other churches, like Notre-Dame or Sacré-Cœur, this feels very much like a neighborhood place of worship, and chances are you’ll be able to wander it without many other tourists around. When we visited, there was a small wedding going on at the very front of the church, and we watched the bride and her father weave their way through the space, heading up the aisle.

There aren’t any pews at Saint-Sulpice…

There aren’t any pews at Saint-Sulpice…

…just row after row of small wooden chairs.

…just row after row of small wooden chairs.

One thing that particularly struck us is the lack of pews — instead, there are rows upon rows of small wooden chairs with woven seats.

 

The Da Vinci Code Connection

There it is.

Embedded in the gray granite floor, a thin polished strip of brass glistened in the stone … a golden line slanting across the church’s floor. The line bore graduated markings, like a ruler. It was a gnomon, Silas had been told, a pagan astronomical device like a sundial. Tourists, scientists, historians, and pagans from around the world came to Saint‑Sulpice to gaze upon this famous line.

The Rose Line.

…. It was an ancient sundial of sorts, a vestige of the pagan temple that had once stood on this very spot. The sun’s rays, shining through the oculus on the south wall, moved farther down the line every day, indicating the passage of time, from solstice to solstice.

–“The Da Vinci Code,” Chapter 22, Dan Brown

Look for the gnomon, which leads to an obelisk against one wall. This line marks the solstices and equinoxes.

Look for the gnomon, which leads to an obelisk against one wall. This line marks the solstices and equinoxes.

Saint-Sulpice has another claim to fame: It’s featured in Dan Brown’s fun puzzle romp The Da Vinci Code — both the book, quoted above, and the crappy movie version.

The narrow brass strip is used as a clue by Silas, the murderous monk, in his quest for the Holy Grail. One end is found near the middle of the nave on the right, by a stone statue with a Latin inscription. From there, it runs north, leading to an obelisk next to a statue of Saint Peter.

This is the famous gnomon — technically, the projecting piece on a sundial that shows the time by the position of its shadow. In this case, it’s a line that’s used as an astronomical instrument from the 1700s to determine the suspiciously pagan date of Easter each year (the first Sunday after the first full moon on or after the vernal equinox — it doesn’t get any more pagan than that!). The sun’s rays enter the church through a missing panel in the south transept’s stained glass window and fall upon the line at various points throughout the year. On the spring and autumn equinoxes the sun hits a bronze table, and on the winter solstice, it illuminates the obelisk.

Brown calls this line the Paris Meridian, or the Rose Line, but apparently that’s pure fiction: Zero longitude of the meridian line is actually in Parc Montsouris, according to Travel France Online.

Because of the influx of Da Vinci Code aficionados (visitations increased 25% after the publication of the novel, apparently), Saint-Sulpice posted the following note in English:

Well, The Da Vinci Code version makes a good story. But even the facts are not without interest, in providing an example of the cooperation of science and religion. It would not be unreasonable to expect the church was built on a pagan temple; this was a regular practice. However, it seems unlikely that the sundial, especially if known to be pagan, would have been preserved or reconstructed in the new church building.

Despite the fact that Brown manipulated the facts a bit to make a more compelling story, Saint-Sulpice is definitely worth a wander, especially when paired with the Luxembourg Gardens. –Wally