USA

First Time Visiting the USA? 9 Things That Surprise International Travelers

From tipping and sales tax to massive distances and surprise hotel fees, here’s what international travelers should know on their first trip to the USA. 

A Tintin-like character eats a massive turkey leg while sitting on a curb watching a 4th of July parade, filled with U.S. flags

The United States is familiar before you ever arrive. You’ve seen New York apartments on TV, heard a thousand American accents and probably know what a Walmart looks like without ever setting foot inside one.

That can make your first visit surprisingly disorienting.

Prices aren’t quite what they seem. A two-hour drive is considered perfectly reasonable. Restaurant servers keep bringing you water you didn’t ask for. And just when you think you’ve figured out tipping, someone swivels an iPad toward you and asks whether you’d like to leave 20%, 25% or 30% for handing you a muffin.

Welcome to America.

Here are some of the things worth knowing before your first trip to the USA — including a few that could save you money, time and an awkward moment or two.

A man looks at an I Heart NY mug in a souvenir store, confused why he has to  pay $21.64 when the price tag says $19.99

1. The price on the tag usually isn’t the price you’ll pay

You find something for $39.99. You take it to the register. Suddenly, it costs $43 and change.

No, you’ve probably not been scammed.

Unlike in many countries, U.S. stores generally display prices before sales tax. The tax gets added when you pay, and because rates can include both state and local taxes, the amount varies depending on where you are.

The average combined state and local sales tax rate in the United States is about 7.5%, but there’s considerable variation. Some states have no statewide sales tax, while combined rates in parts of the country can exceed 10%.

Good to know: Taxes can also differ according to what you’re buying. Groceries, clothing and other products may be taxed differently, depending on the state or city.

In other words, don’t construct an extremely precise vacation budget by adding up the numbers on American price tags. America has other plans.

A man stands by his convertible car looking at a map and a sign reading, Los Angeles 247 Miles, Las Vegas 318 Miles, while a vulture looks down at him

2. The distances are probably bigger than you think

One of the easiest first-time mistakes is looking at a map and thinking, While we’re there, we could also visit…

Maybe. Zoom out first.

The continental United States stretches roughly 2,800 miles (4,500 kilometers) from coast to coast. Just driving from San Francisco to Denver, for example, takes roughly 18 hours without lengthy stops.

Even destinations within the same state can be surprisingly far apart. Los Angeles to San Francisco is around a six-hour drive in decent conditions. Miami to Key West can take close to four hours. Texas is apparently attempting to contain several countries.

Before planning a multi-city trip, look up the actual travel time, not just the distance.

For longer journeys, domestic flights often make the most sense. Rental cars are especially useful for national parks, scenic drives and areas with limited public transportation. Trains can be a wonderful way to see parts of the country, but the U.S. passenger rail network isn’t nearly as extensive or frequent as those in many European and Asian countries.

And public transit varies dramatically. You can comfortably explore cities including New York, Chicago, Boston and Washington, D.C., without a car. In many other American cities, that’s a lot harder.

A man looks at his map app on his phone while walking through a busy nightlife area in NYC, past two prostitutes

3. Your phone becomes your travel survival kit

You can certainly explore the United States without constant internet access. It’s just considerably more annoying.

Your phone may become your map, transit planner, boarding pass, restaurant finder, translator and rideshare connection all at once. Some restaurants and attractions also rely on QR codes, online reservations or mobile ticketing.

Before leaving home, check what your mobile carrier charges for U.S. roaming. International roaming packages can be perfectly reasonable; using data without one can be decidedly less so.

A prepaid SIM is another option. If your phone supports one, an eSIM app can be more convenient because you can activate a data plan without removing your existing physical SIM.

Whatever you choose, sort it out before you’re standing outside an airport trying to figure out how to get to your hotel using airport Wi-Fi.

Smart backup: Download offline maps for your destination before your trip. They’ll still work if your signal disappears — something that’s particularly useful on road trips and in national parks.

A man holds his credit card looking at his check at a diner while the waitress holds coffee and smiles at him by a sign encouraging tipping

4. Tipping isn’t optional everywhere — but it isn’t mandatory everywhere either

American tipping culture is confusing even to Americans.

For travelers, the easiest rule is this: At a sit-down restaurant with table service, 20% of the pre-tax bill is a safe standard tip for good service.

Bars, taxis and rideshares, hotel staff, tour guides and other service workers are also commonly tipped.

But don’t panic every time a payment screen presents you with three enormous percentage buttons.

At coffeeshops, bakeries, fast-casual restaurants and other counter-service businesses, 10% is a good rule of thumb. And don’t feel pressured when the touchscreen offers only 20%, 25% and 30%. Look for the option to enter a custom tip instead.

Yes, America has somehow turned buying a muffin into a math problem.

Before tipping at a restaurant, check the bill for phrases such as “gratuity included,” “service charge” or “service fee.” Some restaurants automatically add a charge, particularly for larger groups. Find out what it covers before adding another 20%.

Why is tipping such a big deal here? Federal law still permits qualifying employers to pay certain tipped workers as little as $2.13 per hour in direct wages if applicable requirements are met. So your server depends on tips to make a living. 

The system is complicated. Fortunately, your vacation doesn’t have to be.

A hot tattooed waiter puts down a plate loaded with a huge hamburger, frieds and onion ring in front of an astonished man, while another man digs into his burger

5. Restaurant portions can be enormous — and taking leftovers home is normal

The stereotype has some truth behind it: American restaurant portions can be big.

Fortunately, you aren’t expected to finish everything.

Asking for a box to take leftovers with you is completely normal, including at many nice restaurants. You may hear people call it a “to-go box” or occasionally a “doggie bag,” although your dog has no legal claim to the contents.

Another pleasant surprise: Tap water is generally brought to the table free at sit-down restaurants, and free refills are common for fountain sodas, iced tea and drip coffee.

Just don’t assume every beverage comes with unlimited refills. Your second margarita is definitely going on the bill.

A female bouncer with tattoos and shaved head looks at a man's French ID at a bar

6. Carry your ID — even if you haven’t been asked for it in years

The legal drinking age throughout the United States is 21, and businesses can be strict about checking identification.

Don’t be offended if you’re well past 21 and someone asks for ID. Some bars, restaurants and stores have policies requiring staff to check everyone who appears below a certain age, and others simply check everyone.

For international visitors, a passport is the most universally recognized form of identification. Some establishments may accept foreign driver’s licenses or national ID cards, but acceptance isn’t guaranteed.

That creates an annoying tradeoff: Nobody wants to carry a passport around all night, but nobody wants to be denied a celebratory cocktail because their charming laminated card from home means nothing to the bartender either.

Check local requirements and use your judgment about when carrying your passport is necessary.

A woman at the front desk of a hotel hands a man his bill, loaded with surcharges

7. Hotels can have surprise fees too

Sales tax isn’t the only number that can mysteriously grow.

Some U.S. hotels — particularly resorts and properties in major tourist destinations — charge mandatory resort, destination or amenity fees on top of the advertised room rate. These may supposedly cover things such as Wi-Fi, gym access, pool towels or other amenities, whether you use them or not.

Parking can also be shockingly expensive at urban hotels.

Before booking, look for the total price including mandatory fees and taxes, and check the parking charge if you’re renting a car.

A cheap hotel room becomes much less cheap after a nightly fee and $50 parking enter the chat.

A big trucker checks out a tourist holding a coin in front of public restrooms

8. Public bathrooms are easier to find than in many countries — with one catch

Here’s some good news: You won’t need a pocketful of coins to use a restroom in the United States.

Public toilets are free. Museums, department stores, malls, airports, large supermarkets, highway rest areas and many chain restaurants have them.

The catch is that availability varies by city, and some businesses restrict bathrooms to customers or require a code to get in.

On road trips, highway rest areas and large gas stations are your friends. In dense cities, use a bathroom when you see one rather than confidently assuming another will materialize exactly when required.

This is wisdom acquired through suffering.

A man sits, bored, in a taxi stuck in traffic, while the driver drinks coffee and smiles, and a jogger passes them

9. Americans measure distance in time

Ask an American how far away something is and you may hear:

“About 20 minutes.”

You did not ask how long it takes. You asked how far it is. This distinction is irrelevant in the U.S.

That’s partly because a five-mile journey could take 10 minutes in one place and an hour in another. Traffic, road type and time of day often matter more than mileage.

Google Maps might tell you something is “only” 12 miles away. In Los Angeles at 5 p.m., those could be the longest 12 miles of your natural life.

When planning your days, check travel times at approximately the time you’ll actually be making the trip. And leave extra room for traffic, parking and the inexplicable American phenomenon of needing 15 minutes to get from a parking lot into the building you came to visit.

A bunch of people hold out their hands for money while a man looks into his wallet in front of a massive plate of spaghetti and meatballs

First Trip to the USA: A Little Preparation Goes a Long Way

The fun of visiting another country is discovering all the little things nobody thought to warn you about.

In the United States, that might mean learning that the $5 coffee isn’t actually $5, dinner is large enough to become tomorrow’s lunch, a “nearby” attraction is 90 minutes away and the smiling person behind the counter would now like you to answer a complicated ethical question about tipping on a touchscreen.

None of these things should make the United States intimidating to visit. They’re simply part of figuring out how the place works.

Sort out your transportation and mobile data, budget a little extra for taxes and tips, keep an eye on travel times, determine the best eSIM for the USA — and then enjoy the weirdness. –Megan Brooks

The Big Island Is the Hawaii for Couples Who Think They’re Over Hawaii

Plan the perfect Big Island couples getaway with manta ray snorkeling, black sand beaches, Volcanoes National Park and Hawaii’s most scenic drives.

There’s a particular kind of traveler who has done Waikiki once, spent a wedding anniversary fighting for pool chairs in Wailea, and quietly concluded that Hawaii is a beautiful place ruined by everyone else who also read about it. 

If that describes you and your partner, the Big Island is the rebuttal. It works precisely because the island is too large and too strange for crowds to accumulate anywhere except a handful of resort lobbies, and because most visitors never drive more than 30 minutes from their hotel.

I should know. I nearly skipped it.

The Island That Doesn’t Feel Like a Resort

The scale changes the math of a trip. The Big Island covers about 4,028 square miles, roughly the size of Connecticut, and holds a population smaller than Anaheim, California. 

The couples who fall for this island are the ones who treat it as a road trip with a hotel attached rather than a resort with an island attached.

Drive 20 minutes in any direction from the Kona resort strip and you’re alone on lava fields, or in coffee country at 1,500 feet in air that smells like roasting beans, or on a black sand beach where the only other visitors are green sea turtles who got there first.

The couples who fall for this island are the ones who treat it as a road trip with a hotel attached rather than a resort with an island attached. That mental flip matters more than any single reservation you will make, and it explains almost everything else in this post.

A Day That Actually Feels Like Yours

A few specifics from my own circling of the island, in the order i’d do them again.

Start with Kealakekua Bay at 7 a.m., kayaking across water so clear you can watch spinner dolphins pass 40 feet below. The afternoon wind arrives around noon and turns the bay to chop, so the early start isn’t optional, and the reward for it is having a marine sanctuary nearly to yourselves.

Then drive south through Kau to Punaluu, where the sand is genuinely black and the turtles haul out most afternoons like they own the place — because, legally speaking, they more or less do. 

Continue to South Point, the southernmost spot in the United States, where locals cliff-jump off a 40-foot ledge, and you can decide together that watching counts as participation.

End in Waimea, the upcountry cattle town at 2,670 feet, where paniolo ranching culture predates Texas cowboys by decades. Merriman’s has been doing farm-to-table there since 1988, before the phrase existed on menus, and the drive back down to the coast at dusk, with the Kohala mountains going purple behind you, is the kind of thing you’ll describe to friends (who will assume you’re exaggerating).

Date Night, Rewritten

Here’s the evening that outranks every scheduled romantic gesture I’ve attempted anywhere else. Sunset at a Mauna Kea overlook around 6:30 p.m., above the cloud layer, followed by manta ray night snorkeling off Keauhou at 8 p.m.

You float on the surface in dark water, holding a light board, while 14-foot animals somersault a foot beneath your masks with their mouths open, feeding on plankton that the lights attract. 

It’s not what most people mean by date night. That’s exactly the argument for it. The operators run at better than a 90% sighting rate, the whole thing takes two hours, and you’ll talk about it at dinner parties for the next decade.

The Unromantic Logistics That Make It Work

This Big Island punishes improvisation, so handle the boring parts early.

You’ll drive between 60 and 120 miles on any day you do something interesting. The restaurants worth planning around are rarely in the resort corridor. Rideshare coverage thins to nearly nothing past Waikoloa after dark, and more than one couple has ended a romantic evening waiting 90 minutes for a driver who never accepted the ride.

The fix is an easy one: Book a Kona car rental for the entire stay rather than day-by-day, from a local operator that delivers the car to your hotel or the airport. This spares you the arrival-day counter line that eats the first two hours of a five-day trip. 

And if the occasion is an anniversary or honeymoon, it’s worth knowing that a luxury car rental in Kona runs meaningfully less than the equivalent on Maui or Oahu. 

The Queen Kaahumanu Highway at golden hour, lava fields going amber on both sides and the top down, is the single best driving hour in the state. And it costs about what two resort dinners do.

Whatever you book, confirm that the mileage terms cover an island this size. A single loop runs about 220 miles before you add a foot of side trips.

Where to Base and What to Skip on the Big Island

Base on the Kona side for reliable sun and the manta trip. If Kilauea is erupting, add one or two nights in Volcano Village, because falling asleep to a faint red glow over the caldera is worth rearranging a reservation for, and the eruption viewing crowds thin dramatically after 8 p.m.

Skip the impulse to split the trip with a second island. The interisland flight, the second rental car, and the repacking consume a full day of a week you’ll wish was longer. 

The Big Island keeps producing new versions of itself, rainforest to lava desert to alpine summit, faster than you can experience them.

Hawaii's crowded islands are crowded for defensible reasons. This one just quietly has more, spread across more space, with fewer people standing in front of it. Go before the couples fighting over pool chairs figure that out. –Oliver Brooks

Houston Travel Tips: 5 Things to Know Before Booking Your Trip

Houston travel tips to help you plan smarter, including when to visit, whether to rent a car, where to eat and how to map out your days.

Colorful mural in Houston, Texas

Planning a trip to Houston sounds easy enough at first. You picture NASA, great museums, barbecue, Tex-Mex, maybe a baseball game and a hotel pool you can justify as “recovery time.” Then you open your map app.

Suddenly, your breezy Houston vacation has turned into a geometry problem. The Museum District is here. Space Center Houston is way down there. The restaurant everyone told you to try is in a strip mall 35 minutes away. Your hotel is “central,” technically, but Houston’s version of central may still involve a highway.

That doesn’t mean Houston is hard to visit. It just means the city rewards a little planning. Houston is huge, humid, delicious, spread out and full of surprises. Get your logistics right and you can have an excellent trip. Wing it completely and you may spend more time in transit than you do seeing the city.

Here are five Houston travel tips to know before you book.

1. You’ll most likely want a car.

Houston is a driving city. For most visitors, especially anyone hoping to see several parts of the city, a car makes the trip much easier.

Think of Houston less like a compact weekend city and more like a collection of mini-trips. One morning might take you to the Museum District. Another day might be built around Space Center Houston. Dinner could be in Montrose, the Heights or Chinatown.

Rideshares work well for shorter hops, but they can add up fast if you’re crossing town multiple times a day. Before you book your hotel, look into rental cars in Houston. You may find that having your own wheels gives you more freedom and less schedule stress.

Take the weather in Houston seriously — especially during hurricane season.

2. Houston weather can be more intense than you may expect.

Houston doesn’t do “a little warm.” In summer, the city can feel like it’s been wrapped in a wet towel and placed under a heat lamp. The humidity is real, the sun is serious, and the air conditioning indoors can be aggressive enough to make you wish you’d packed a sweatshirt.

If you’re planning lots of outdoor time, spring and fall are generally more comfortable than peak summer. If you’re visiting in summer anyway, build your days accordingly. Do outdoor activities early, drink lots of water, pack breathable clothes and bring a hat you actually like enough to wear. 

Weather should also factor into your hotel and car choices. Make sure your room has reliable air conditioning. If you’re renting a car, good AC isn’t a luxury. It’s a survival tool with cupholders.

And while Houston is famous for heat and humidity, sudden storms can be part of the package too. Heavy rain can affect roads, traffic and plans, especially during the wetter months and hurricane season. Keep an eye on the forecast, take flood warnings seriously and give yourself extra time when weather looks messy.

3. Plan by area, not by theme.

This may be the most important Houston travel tip: Don’t plan one “museum day,” one “shopping day” and one “food day,” unless everything on each list happens to be near each other. Houston is too spread out for that.

Instead, plan by geography. Pick one anchor activity for each day, then build around it.

If you’re going to the Museum District, pair it with Hermann Park, the Houston Zoo, Rice Village or dinner nearby. If you’re heading to Space Center Houston, treat that as the centerpiece of the day and look for stops in the Clear Lake or Galveston direction. If you want to explore Montrose or the Heights, give yourself time to wander, eat, shop and linger instead of trying to sprint across town afterward.

And if you’re planning to visit Meow Wolf’s Radio Tave, Houston’s gloriously weird immersive art experience in the Fifth Ward, treat that as its own anchor too. It’s the kind of place where you don’t just pop in, snap a photo and move on. You wander through portals, poke around strange rooms, follow whatever mystery is unfolding and eventually wonder whether you’re still in Houston or have been gently abducted by an interdimensional radio station. Pair it with nearby food, drinks or a Downtown stop rather than trying to wedge it between attractions on opposite sides of the city.

A good Houston itinerary might look like this:

Day 1: Downtown, Theater District, Discovery Green and a game or show
Day 2: Museum District, Hermann Park and Montrose
Day 3: Space Center Houston, Kemah or Galveston
Day 4: Fifth Ward, Meow Wolf’s Radio Tave, the Heights and Buffalo Bayou Park

That kind of planning saves time, cuts down on backtracking and makes the city feel much more manageable. It also leaves room for the best kind of travel moment: the unplanned stop. In Houston, that might be a taco truck, a tiny Vietnamese bakery, a mural or a cocktail bar.

Sure, you can get great Tex-Mex and barbecue in Houston — but make sure you venture out and try other cuisines as well.

4. Take the Houston’s food scene seriously.

Houston is one of the great American food cities, and the best advice is simple: Be curious.

Yes, you can get excellent barbecue and Tex-Mex. You should. But don’t stop there. Houston’s food scene reflects the city itself: Mexican, Vietnamese, Nigerian, Indian, Chinese, Cajun, Creole, Pakistani, Korean, Thai, Ethiopian and many more cuisines all have a place at the table.

Some of the best meals in Houston won’t announce themselves with dramatic architecture or velvet ropes. They may be in a strip mall, next to a nail salon, under fluorescent lights — a setting that looks unbothered by Instagram. Go anyway.

That’s part of the fun of visiting Houston. The city isn’t always polished in a traditional tourist-brochure way. It sprawls. It surprises. It hides some of its best food in plain sight. Ask locals where they eat, not just where visitors go. Search by neighborhood and cuisine. Leave at least one meal open for a recommendation you get after you arrive.

And if you’re building an itinerary around food, remember the previous tip: Group restaurants by area. A lunch reservation across town can quietly eat an entire afternoon if you don’t plan for drive time.

Cowboy about to be thrown of his bucking horse as part of the Houston rodeo

The rodeo can be fun — but prices go up when it comes to town.

5. Timing can change the price of your trip.

Houston hotel prices can shift dramatically depending on what’s happening in town. A week that looks mysteriously expensive may overlap with a major convention, concert, sporting event, college tournament, energy conference or rodeo season.

Before you book, check the event calendar. Look at what’s happening at NRG Stadium, Toyota Center, Daikin Park and the George R. Brown Convention Center. Also check dates for the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, which brings huge crowds in late winter and early spring.

If your dates are flexible, click around. Moving your trip by even a week can sometimes make a big difference in hotel rates and availability. If your dates aren’t flexible, book early and choose a hotel based on the area where you’ll spend the most time.

The same goes for restaurant reservations, museum tickets and special attractions. Houston is a major city with a major visitor economy, so don’t assume you can always glide in at the last minute. A little advance planning can save money and prevent the “Why is everything sold out?” panic spiral.

The Saturn V rocket on display at Space Center Houston

FAQs: Visiting Houston

Is Houston worth visiting?

Yes. Houston is worth visiting for its museums, food, sports, neighborhoods, performing arts, NASA connection and easy access to Gulf Coast day trips. It’s especially rewarding for travelers who like big, diverse cities and don’t mind planning around distance.

Do you need a car in Houston?

Most visitors will find Houston easier with a car. Public transit can work well in specific areas, including downtown, the Museum District, NRG Park and the Texas Medical Center, but many major attractions and restaurants are spread across the city. If you don’t rent a car, choose your hotel carefully and group your itinerary by neighborhood.

What is the best time to visit Houston?

Spring and fall are usually the most comfortable times to visit Houston, especially if you plan to spend time outdoors. Summer can be very hot and humid, while late winter and early spring can be busy because of rodeo season and major events.

How many days do you need in Houston?

A long weekend gives you enough time for a first taste of Houston: one day for museums, one day for food and neighborhoods and one day for Space Center Houston or another major attraction. Four or five days is better if you want to add Galveston, shopping, sports or a slower-paced food crawl.

Is Houston walkable for tourists?

Some parts of Houston are walkable, including pockets of downtown, the Museum District, Montrose and the Heights. But Houston as a whole isn’t a city where most visitors can rely on walking alone. Plan for driving, rideshares or public transit between neighborhoods.

What is Houston known for?

Houston is known for Space Center Houston, NASA’s Johnson Space Center, world-class museums, major sports teams, the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, diverse neighborhoods and one of the most exciting food scenes in the U.S.

The Houston, Texas skyline at night, with a lit-up Ferris wheel in the foreground

Houston is a big city, but you can group your adventures by area to maximize your time.

Houston Is Big. That’s Part of the Fun.

Houston isn’t a city you conquer by accident. It’s too large, too spread out and too full of detours for that. But with a little planning, those detours become the point.

Rent a car if it makes sense. Respect the weather. Build your days by neighborhood. Eat widely. Check the calendar before you book. Do those five things and Houston becomes much easier to love: a big, bold, generous city where the best part of the trip might be the thing you found between the itinerary you planned. –Abigail Walters


GIDDYUP! MORE TEXAS: 

Quirky Dallas

Artsy Marfa

5 Wedding Destinations in the U.S. Your Guests Will Actually Thank You For

The best destination weddings balance your dream day with a trip guests will genuinely enjoy. These five destinations do both.

A bride smiles up at the groom while posing by a horse-drawn carriage and flower-covered mansion in New Orleans' Garden District

Destination weddings get a bad rap. Mention one, and someone inevitably pictures draining their savings account to attend a ceremony on a remote beach, where the only available activity is awkward small talk with distant relatives.

But destination weddings don’t have to be an elaborate hostage situation disguised as a celebration.

Destination weddings don’t have to be a hostage situation disguised as a celebration.

The best ones strike a balance between what matters to you and what makes the trip enjoyable for everyone else.

The best ones strike a balance between what matters to you as a couple and what makes the trip genuinely enjoyable for everyone else. Because if you’re asking guests to use vacation days, book flights and figure out childcare, it helps if the destination itself feels like part of the gift. But before you arrange the room block for wedding guests, it’s key that you choose the right destination.

The good news? Some cities practically do the heavy lifting for you. Whether you’re prioritizing weather, logistics or making sure your wedding weekend becomes a trip people still talk about years later, these five destinations deliver.  

Two grooms, one holding a parasol, dance down the street at their wedding in the French Quarter of New Orleans with a jazz band playing

1. New Orleans: For Couples Who Want a Wedding With Personality

Some cities host weddings. New Orleans is the wedding.

Few places lean into celebration quite like the Big Easy. Picture exchanging vows in a hidden courtyard before leading guests through the French Quarter in a joyful second-line parade. Add Creole and Cajun cuisine that will ruin bland wedding chicken forever, and you’ve got the recipe for an unforgettable weekend.

The city practically creates the atmosphere for you.

  • The French Quarter offers historic romance and undeniable character.

  • The Warehouse District delivers a more contemporary, artsy vibe.

  • The Garden District surrounds guests with grand homes and lush gardens worthy of a Southern fairy tale.

Your guests may arrive for the wedding, but don’t be surprised if they leave planning a return trip.

Two women get married on the beach under a wood structure covered in white cloth and flowers in San Diego

2. San Diego: Because Nobody Wants to Gamble With the Weather

Wedding planning involves enough uncertainty. The forecast doesn’t need to be one of them.

With mild temperatures and sunshine most of the year, San Diego is one of the safest bets for couples hoping to avoid weather-related drama. The city’s laidback coastal vibe also means guests can easily turn the celebration into a mini vacation.

Beyond the postcard-worthy beaches, you’ll find elegant resorts, historic hotels and garden venues that stay beautiful year-round. Visitors can spend downtime exploring Balboa Park, strolling downtown or simply enjoying the coastline. There are also some underrated day trips from San Diego that might appeal.

A thoughtful bonus: Many beaches offer complimentary beach wheelchairs, making ocean access more inclusive for guests with mobility needs.

A few timing tips:

  • May through October: Classic Southern California beach weather with warm, sunny days

  • November through April: Cooler temperatures and fewer crowds create a more relaxed experience

  • January through March: The highest chance of rain, though still lower than many destinations

If predictability is your love language, San Diego may be your perfect match.

Newlyweds celebrate by neon signs, a pink convertible and a wedding chapel in Las Vegas

3. Las Vegas: Surprisingly Stress-Free

Las Vegas may be famous for impulsive weddings, but it’s also one of the easiest places to plan one intentionally.

The city has streamlined the process to an art form. Couples simply need to be over 18, provide government-issued identification and confirm they’re not currently married. There’s no waiting period, meaning you can obtain your marriage license and tie the knot the same day.

International couples especially appreciate how straightforward the process is. Marriages performed in Las Vegas are generally recognized worldwide, though additional documentation, including a certified marriage certificate and apostille, may be required, depending on your home country.

Best of all, Vegas knows exactly what it is. Guests have endless entertainment options, flights are plentiful, and venues range from delightfully over-the-top to surprisingly elegant. And yes, there are things to do in Vegas besides gamble. For one thing, it’s home to world-class restaurants.

If your priorities are simplicity, convenience and making sure nobody spends the reception complaining they’re bored, Vegas delivers.

A groom and bride raise their hands as they ride a rollercoaster in Orlando, Florida, with the Disney World castle and Epcot ball in the background

4. Orlando: For the Couple With a Guest List the Size of a Small Nation

Every family has that wedding guest list that somehow expands to include toddlers, grandparents, second cousins and people your parents insist you absolutely must invite.

Orlando handles that kind of logistical challenge exceptionally well.

As one of the country’s biggest tourist destinations, the city is designed to accommodate large groups. You’ll find venues ranging from botanical gardens and museums to luxury resorts and, yes, world-famous theme parks.

But Orlando’s real superpower is infrastructure.

Professional childcare services can accommodate both individual families and larger events. Transportation options make moving dozens of people around surprisingly manageable. And with a major international airport offering abundant flight options, getting everyone there becomes much less complicated.

When your biggest challenge is coordinating a crowd ranging from age 2 to 82, Orlando makes it feel almost easy.

A rockabilly couple get married in Nashville, Tennessee, by a black classic bar, a sign and downtown buildings, as a band plays

5. Nashville: Turn Your Wedding Into a Weekend Everyone Remembers

The best destination weddings don’t just create memorable ceremonies. They create memorable weekends.

Nashville excels at exactly that.

The city offers venues for nearly every aesthetic. Cheekwood Estate & Gardens delivers timeless elegance with its historic mansion and manicured grounds. Meanwhile, the Wedgewood-Houston district caters to couples seeking industrial-chic spaces with a creative edge.

But Music City’s biggest advantage happens between wedding events.

Guests can explore the Country Music Hall of Fame, discover local restaurants, wander Broadway’s legendary honky-tonks or stumble upon live music seemingly everywhere they go. The wedding becomes the centerpiece of the weekend rather than the only attraction.

For the best experience:

  • April through October generally offers the most pleasant weather.

  • Ceremonies held in Metro Parks require special event permits.

  • Events involving alcohol or amplified music require Park Board approval at least 60 days in advance.

A little planning goes a long way, leaving everyone free to enjoy the celebration.

A couple on their wedding night sit on a blanket on the beach, watching the sun set and drinking wine

The Secret to a Great Destination Wedding

The best destination weddings don’t happen because you picked the trendiest location on Instagram.

They work because you remembered that your guests are taking a trip, too.

When you choose a destination that solves your biggest concern — whether that’s weather, logistics or simplicity — while giving guests a place they’re genuinely excited to visit, everyone wins.

Years later, people probably won’t remember the centerpieces. They’ll remember dancing through New Orleans behind a brass band, watching the sunset in San Diego or discovering their new favorite honky-tonk in Nashville.

That’s the kind of wedding worth traveling for. –Sarah Sidney


Not quite at the stage where you’re planning the wedding? Here’s how to pick the perfect proposal destination.

FAQ: David Byrne’s Theater of the Mind: A Spoiler-Free Guide to the Immersive Experience

A gif showing scenes from the house in the immersive experience Theater of the Mind

A neuroscience funhouse? Yes. A David Byrne concert? Absolutely not. Everything you need to know before you go — without spoiling any of the tricks. 

Here’s the pitch: David Byrne — Grammy winner, Talking Heads frontman, the man who once performed an entire Broadway show in an excessively broad-shouldered gray suit — has co-created an immersive experience in a century-old Chicago landmark building where a small group of strangers walks through a series of rooms and gets their perception of reality gently, gleefully dismantled. The New Yorker declared it “an ambitious addition to the genre of immersive art… a through-the-looking-glass fantasy.” 

We had to check it out. And we had about a thousand questions going in — most of which we’re going to answer for you here, without ruining any of the magic. Consider this your no-spoiler field guide.

Theater of the Mind

The Basics

Where Reid Murdoch Building
333 N. LaSalle St.
River North, Chicago
When Through July 12, 2026
Tues–Sun, timed entries
every 15 minutes
Duration 75 minutes
Group 16 people per session
Tickets $69–$99
goodmantheatre.org
312-443-3800
Ages Recommended 10+
Phones Off and stowed —
this means you

What is Theater of the Mind? Qu’est-ce c’est?

Theater of the Mind isn’t a play. It’s not a concert. It’s not an escape room, though the room-to-room structure might make you think so at first. The best working description: It exists somewhere in the margins of creepy festival funhouse meets cool high school science experiment.

More precisely: You follow a guide through a surreal 15,000-square-foot installation as a group of just 16 audience members. Over 75 minutes, you move through a series of rooms where you’ll participate in thought-provoking neuroscience experiences and learn how easily your own senses can deceive you. Byrne himself has called it a “neuro funhouse,” though he’s acknowledged it evolved into something more. 

Is it actually autobiographical? Are we watching David Byrne’s life story?

Sort of — and Byrne himself is delightfully ambivalent about it. “I wasn’t sure how I felt about the character being named David and having little elements of my life in it,” he said. “But I also thought, why not? A lot of the stuff is not exactly biographical or autobiographical.” 

That hedging is worth taking seriously, because the show plays deliberately with the line between real and invented. The guide’s mother, for example, dabbles in painting. In reality, it was Byrne’s late father who painted as a hobby. 

The show borrows from his life and then quietly rearranges the furniture.

What is real: Byrne was born in Dumbarton, Scotland, to a Catholic father and a Presbyterian mother — a combination that caused enough tension in the extended family that his parents eventually packed up and emigrated, first to Hamilton, Ontario, then to Arbutus, Maryland, where his father worked as an electronics engineer.

Byrne describes himself as having undiagnosed autism, calling it a superpower that lets him hyperfocus on creative work.

Go in ready to be a willing participant in a series of jaw-dropping perceptual experiments — and you’re going to have a great time.

The bigger theme running through the biographical material isn’t any single memory but the question of memory itself. “We like to think that our brains are recording machines,” Byrne has said. “But they’re not. Every time we remember, we’re kind of making things up, embellishing. Not intentionally lying, but if our identity is made up of ‘I’m the person that this happened to, who was born here, and this happened to me’ — does that mean our sense of identity is in question as well?”

A man hangs off the sign for Theater of the Mind, an immersive experience by David Byrne, on a street in downtown Chicago

Is Theater of the Mind only for Talking Heads fans?

You certainly don’t need to be a Talking Heads fan for any of this to land. In fact, it might be better if you’re not — you’ll walk in with zero expectations to disappoint and zero nostalgia to protect.

Byrne himself has acknowledged that Talking Heads fans might show up expecting music and David. “I’m hoping the word gets out — that I’m not in it, that it’s not musical,” he said.

There is one original Byrne composition in the show — described by director Andrew Scoville as a “banger” — but this is not a concert, a jukebox or a nostalgia trip. It’s something genuinely new, which is either the most David Byrne thing imaginable, or the least.

Does David Byrne actually appear? Will I get to meet him?

Let’s be direct about this, because a lot of Talking Heads fans are going to show up expecting a concert cameo and we don’t want anyone to feel ambushed: David Byrne will not be performing in Theater of the Mind. He’s the co-creator, not the performer.

What do you actually do in there? What should I expect?

We’re not telling you. That’s the point. But here’s what we can say about the shape of it without ruining anything:

Some spaces may be dizzying or disorienting. The experience includes cognitive and sensory manipulations, including flashing and moving lights.

There’s a definite story, but if you go in expecting a tight narrative arc, recalibrate your expectations. Instead, go in ready to be a willing participant in a series of jaw-dropping perceptual experiments — and you’re going to have a great time.

One practical note worth passing along: Wear comfortable shoes. The experience requires a lot of walking, though the creative team builds in ample opportunities to sit along the way. You won’t be standing for 75 minutes straight.

I hate audience participation. Is this going to put me on the spot?

Reasonable fear. The answer is: No, not in the way you’re imagining. For those wary of immersive theater, don’t worry. The show doesn’t put audience members on the spot or ask them to improvise.

There is some audience participation, but the experience is interactive without being in your face. If you don’t want to say anything, you don’t have to. If you want to talk about that time you tripped on acid, well, your group will be happy to hear it.

Will my experience be the same as my friend’s? 

Because of the visceral, personal nature of immersive work, no two participants will have the same experience.

Part of that is by design: Different actors play the guide at different performances, and the audience’s own reactions and participation shape the way the narration unfolds. Part of it is the nature of neuroscience itself — the whole point is that our perceptions differ even when we’re standing in the same room.

Comparing notes afterward is basically required. Plan for a drink after.

Who’s Mala Gaonkar, and why does she co-get top billing?

Mala Gaonkar is an investor and philanthropist working at the intersection of finance, data science and human behavior. She and Byrne had been collaborating on ideas around neuroscience and perception for years before creating Theater of the Mind.

Their earlier collaboration, Neurosociety, translated cognitive science into interactive environments. Theater of the Mind builds on that work by weaving a series of experiments into a single narrative, shifting the role of the audience from observers to participants. Byrne brings the artistic vision, Gaonkar brings the scientific rigor, and the result is something neither would have made alone.

Any content warnings? What should I know before I go?

The experience includes flashing and moving lights, cognitive and sensory manipulations, some adult themes, and spaces that may be dizzying or disorienting. Recommended for ages 10 and up.

Cell phones, smartwatches and any wearable devices that light up must be completely turned off during the experience or left in a locker at the entrance. Not on silent. Off. (Yes, they mean it. No, this is not negotiable. Yes, you’ll survive.)

Also: Once the experience begins, there’s no late admittance, and refunds will not be issued for tardiness. Build in extra time. The Reid Murdoch Building is right on the river — treat the walk along the Chicago River as part of the experience.

If you have specific sensory concerns, the Goodman has a detailed sensory guide available (Note: It contains spoilers). Email Access@GoodmanTheatre.org for accommodations.

It’s been extended — how long do I actually have to see this?

Theater of the Mind runs through July 12, 2026, with multiple experiences per day at the Reid Murdoch Building. Timed entry slots begin every 15 minutes. Tuesday evenings through Sunday afternoons.

Tickets run $69–$99 and are available through the Goodman Theatre box office at 170 N. Dearborn or at theaterofthemindchicago.com. 

Is Theater of the Mind coming to a city near me?

For now, Chicago is it. The show had its world premiere in Denver in 2022-23, and Chicago is its second home. As of publication, there are no announced tour dates beyond the current run. 

OK, but was it actually worth $90?

Here’s the honest version: Cool? Yes. Mind-bending? Absolutely. Worth the price? That depends on you.

The 75 minutes goes fast — maybe faster than you’d like given what you paid. There are moments that will genuinely stop you in your tracks, and you’ll be talking about specific rooms for days. But if you’re someone who measures an evening by hours-per-dollar, you may walk out doing math you don’t love.

Here’s our actual recommendation: If you read this FAQ and thought, ‘that sounds intriguing’ — go. The people who get the most out of Theater of the Mind are the ones who show up curious and willing. If you’re already there mentally, you’ll leave glad you went. –Wally

Unusual Natural Wonders of the USA That Are Worth Seeing

Skip the skyline. From Bryce Canyon’s alien rock spires and Yellowstone’s bubbling geysers to the Grand Canyon, Niagara Falls and Hawaii’s volcanic hot springs, these unusual natural wonders reveal the wild, weird beauty of the USA.

Curving rock formations in Antelope Canyon in Arizona

The United States may be known for cities like New York and Los Angeles, but its landscapes are where things get properly weird — in the best way. From eroded stone spires to volcanic hotbeds and mirror-clear lakes, the country offers natural wonders that feel closer to science fiction than sightseeing. Below are some of the most unusual natural sights in the USA that are genuinely worth the trip.

Row after row of hoodoo rock formations at Bryce Canyon in Utah

The Most Amazing U.S. National Parks

America’s national parks are protected spaces that preserve rare ecosystems and showcase landscapes that don’t exist anywhere else on Earth.

Bryce Canyon in Utah is famous for its hoodoos: tall, thin rock spires shaped by centuries of erosion. At sunrise and sunset, the whole canyon glows like it’s lit from within, which explains why people travel halfway around the world just to stare at rocks.

A bison in yellow grass by mountainous rock formations in Grand Teton Park in Wyoming, USA

Then there’s Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, where jagged peaks rise dramatically above glacial lakes. It’s the kind of place that makes even casual hikers feel outdoorsy and wildly competent.

Tip: If international travel is already on your radar, some travelers explore long-term mobility options like a Dominica passport, which can simplify border crossings and expand where — and how easily — you roam beyond the USA.

A river running through the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Unique Geological and Natural Formations in the U.S.

The United States doesn’t do subtle geology.

The Grand Canyon in Arizona is a mile-deep reminder that nature has both patience and drama. Carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, it’s vast enough to make photos feel useless and silence feel necessary.

Massive hot spring with blue, green and yellow water inside, at Yellowstone National Park in the U.S.

Yellowstone National Park is another level entirely. Sitting atop one of the largest active volcanic systems on the planet, it’s home to geysers, bubbling hot springs, and surreal mineral colors that look Photoshopped but very much are not.

Rock formations and trees, with their reflections in small pools in Sedona, Arizona, USA

Sedona, Arizona rounds out the trio with towering red rock formations that shift color throughout the day. It’s a magnet for photographers, hikers and people who swear the rocks have “energy.” 

Waterside cliffs with caves and trees above the greenish waters of Lake Superior

Water Wonders of the USA

America’s water features can be just as dramatic as its deserts and canyons.

Lake Superior in Minnesota is so large it behaves like an inland sea, complete with rocky shorelines, shipwrecks and weather that changes its mood fast. It’s beautiful, intimidating and absolutely worth seeing.

Dramatic mountains, clouds and trees at Saint Mary Lake, Montana, USA

Saint Mary Lake in Montana is famous for its clarity and glacier-fed blues, especially when framed by surrounding mountains. Calm, cold and postcard-perfect.

A boat gets near the base of Niagara Falls

And then there’s Niagara Falls. Loud, powerful and unapologetically excessive, it remains one of the most impressive waterfalls in the world. Walking near the falls feels less like sightseeing and more like standing next to a force of nature that doesn’t care about you.

A volcano with lava pool in Hawaii, USA

For geothermal water lovers, Hawaii delivers with hot springs and volcanic landscapes that feel almost prehistoric — a rare blend of relaxation and raw earth energy.

An arch on a clifftop at the Grand Canyon in the United States

Practical Tips for Travelers to U.S. National Parks

Seeing these natural wonders takes more than just showing up. A little planning goes a long way — especially when the landscapes are remote and the distances are large.

  1. Plan your route in advance. Many parks require timed entry, permits or advance reservations during peak seasons. Check before you go so you’re not turned away at the gate.

  2. Think about timing. Summer is prime hiking season, but shoulder seasons like fall and spring often mean fewer crowds and better light. Some parks are magical in winter — if you’re prepared.

  3. Rent a car. Public transportation rarely reaches the most interesting natural sites. A car gives you freedom, flexibility and access to the weird stuff.

  4. Be honest about physical demands. Hiking, kayaking and uneven terrain are common. Bring proper footwear, layers and a realistic sense of your limits.

  5. Don’t ignore legal logistics. If your travel plans extend beyond the U.S. — or you’re thinking more international — consulting global citizen lawyers can help you navigate visas, passports and cross-border travel considerations without surprises.

The cities may get the headlines, but it’s the hoodoos, geysers, canyons, and waterfalls that remind you just how strange — and spectacular — the USA really is. –Anatoly Yarovyi

Snowed-In Layover at MSP: Skyways Survival, Saunas & Sweet Spots

Got a layover at Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport? Here’s how to amuse yourself, from a terminal massage to a quick trip downtown via the skyways.

A handsome man with a tattoo sleeve gets a chair massage at MSP airport

You step off the plane, and the jet bridge exhales a blast of arctic air. Outside, Minneapolis is a snow globe; inside, the terminal hums with gate changes and scarf-wrapped travelers clutching hot coffee. You’ve got three to six hours until your next flight. Great. 

But a winter layover at MSP can be fun. It’s an invitation to warm up, wander smart and waste precisely zero time.

A woman in winter garb holds a to-go cup of coffee and goes down an escalator at MSP airport with her suitcase

The 3-to-6-Hour MSP Game Plan: Choose Your Own Cozy

Before you sprint toward the nearest cinnamon roll, map the layover by time:

  • 3 hours or less: Stay terminal-side. Walk to reset your circulation, grab one indulgent local treat, book a shoulder-saving mini-massage, and pick one micro-mission (reading nook, art stroll or people-watching perch near a window).

  • 4–5 hours: Consider a quick city dip. The Metro Blue Line from MSP to downtown runs directly from both terminals. Trains run frequently, and the ride to the core is under half an hour each way, so you can touch base with Minneapolis without flirting with a missed connection.

  • 6 hours: Stretch your legs downtown via the skyways (more on that below), nibble something warm, and loop back with a cushion to spare.

Pro tip: If you drove to the airport: Avoid terminal garage sticker shock by pre-booking off-site MSP parking so arrival and departure are frictionless. It’s dull logistics that pays you back in actual fun once you’re landside.

A man holds a cup of coffee while looking out the window at MSP airport

MSP Terminal Comforts: Heat, Knead, Feed

This is a winter layover: Your core mission is warmth and circulation. Inside MSP, you’ll find:

  • Quick kneads. Ten to 30 minutes in a massage chair can reset even the surliest spine before a long haul. If you’re the “I didn’t know my neck could make that sound” traveler, build one mini-treatment into your itinerary.

  • Warmth by walking. Terminals here are made for laps. Lace up, cue a podcast, and walk 10 to 20 minutes between bites or tasks. Your joints (and mood) will thank you at cruising altitude.

  • Strategic calories. Think “one hot + one hydrating”: soup or a toasted sandwich plus a giant water to counteract the dehydrating air. If you do coffee, chase it with water so you don’t arrive at your gate feeling like a raisin in a parka.

  • Delay insurance. Put your meds, a spare pair of socks, and a portable battery in your personal item — not the carry-on you gate-check when overheads fill up. If chaos hits, you’ll still be functional. If chaos really hits, you’ll appreciate how to not freak out if you lose your wallet — mindset and method matter when travel gets messy.

A woman smiles as she walks through the Skyway in Minneapolis, Minnesota

Want a Taste of Minneapolis? Ride & Glide

If your layover is 4–6 hours and the weather isn’t actively auditioning for a disaster movie, do the quick city loop:

  1. Hop on the Blue Line. From Terminal 1 or 2, board the light rail toward downtown. Trains are frequent, and it’s a straight shot to Nicollet Mall/Target Field. Check schedules and any service alerts before you commit; the official pages keep them current.

  2. Enter the sky. Downtown’s enclosed walkways are the city’s winter superpower — roughly 10 miles of climate-controlled routes connecting about 80 blocks. Think of it as a heated maze where you can wander without windburn. Hours vary by building (weekday-heavy), so plan for daytime/early evening access.

  3. A tiny “sky-tour.”

    • From the Nicollet area, duck into an entrance and follow overhead signage toward retail or food courts.

    • Loop two to four blocks, pausing where you see cozy seating or bakery smells (the best compass).

    • Snap a skyline peek from an elevated window and then reverse course. The goal isn’t maximal sightseeing; it’s staying toasty while you get a feel for Minneapolis’ unique winter rhythm — walking without ever going outside.

  4. Time discipline. Set a departure alarm that gets you back on the Blue Line with a generous buffer. Winter means slower everything; your future self would like to avoid cardio sprints in snow boots.

Weather reality check: Minneapolis winters can deliver serious wind chills. If you’re curious how cold it really feels, the National Weather Service’s wind chill chart translates temps and wind into “what your face experiences,” so you can decide whether street-level detours make sense, or if indoor skyways should be your sole playground.

A woman enters her hotel room with her suitcase at the InterContinental MSP

Heat Therapy, Minnesota Edition: Saunas, Steam and “Warm Enough” Hacks

No, MSP isn’t Helsinki. But you can still nudge your core temp upward without a full spa day:

  • Hotel-adjacent warmth. The InterContinental MSP connects to Terminal 1 via skybridge and (when operating) offers a dedicated TSA checkpoint window for carry-on travelers — handy if you’re starting or ending in Minneapolis and want a “roll out of bed, roll onto plane” morning. Even if you’re not staying the night this time, earmark it for a future trip when you are starting in MSP; the path beats a frosty curbside dash. (Always verify current hours before you plan around them.)

  • Make your own sauna lite. Swap a bulky coat for tactical layers you can modulate: thermal tee, mid-layer fleece, packable shell. Layering beats sweating, then freezing, especially when you’re transitioning between warm terminals, brisk platforms and steamy coffeeshops. (If you’re revisiting your packing system, you might find the field-tested notes on what to pack for South America useful — different continent, same principles of warmth, weight and sanity.)

  • Hands and feet first. Carry a tiny tube of unscented balm (for nose and lips), thin glove liners that work with phone screens, and wool socks that keep your toes snug and warm. If you’re prone to Raynaud’s, stash disposable hand warmers and use them before you feel the sting.

  • Hydrate and humidify. Winter air is bone-dry. Drink more water than you feel comfortable with, and if you’re sensitive, a pocket-sized saline spray can do wonders. Your skin will forgive you by the next boarding call.

  • Mindset matters. Long layovers feel better with a small, self-sufficient kit and a loose plan — exactly the ethos of how to survive and actually enjoy off-grid travel. You don’t need a cabin in the woods to use those habits; an airport in February will do.

The Minneapolis skyline with the Stone Arch Bridge over the Mississippi River in the foreground, as a plane flies overhead

Micro-Itineraries for an MSP Layover

3-Hour Thaw: Staying Airside

  • 0:00–0:10 — Walk a long loop to shake off the plane

  • 0:10–0:40 — Quick chair massage, shoulders + neck

  • 0:40–1:10 — Soup and water; download podcasts or audiobooks

  • 1:10–2:10 — Art stroll + bookshop browse; text the friend you always forget to text

  • 2:10–3:00 — Gate shift, stretch, board

4½-Hour Tour: Touching the City

  • 0:00–0:15 — Exit to the Blue Line platform; set your return alarm

  • 0:15–0:45 — Train to Nicollet Mall; enter an indoor walkway; browse a couple of blocks for a warm lunch

  • 0:45–1:45 — Loop through the skyways; peek at street views from elevated windows

  • 1:45–2:15 — Train back to MSP

  • 2:15–3:00 — Security + hydration + boarding buffer

6-Hour Itinerary: Maximizing Comfort

  • Split your time:

    • An hour of movement (walks)

    • An hour of eating (twice)

    • An hour of errands (charging, reorganizing your bag), plus transit and buffers

    • If the wind-chill reading makes you wince, keep the whole thing indoors and bask in the fact that Minneapolis lets you wander for blocks without ever braving the curb.

A man stands on the platform of the Blue Line metro in Minneapolis, Minnesota in the snow

Minneapolis Winter Know-Before-You-Go

  • Transit timing. Blue Line frequency and travel times are predictable, but winter can slow transfers. Always skim the official page right before you commit to the downtown hop; it’ll flag any service changes.

  • Skyway hours vary. Many connections keep weekday business hours, with shorter weekends. If you’re planning a Saturday or Sunday wander — or an evening hop — expect a smaller network than the lunch-hour rush.

  • Layer logic beats heavy coats. You’ll move between overheated interiors and brisk platforms; being able to peel or add is the difference between “glow” and “sweaty popsicle.”

  • Security reality. Liquid rules are still very much a thing in the U.S., so consolidate your gels/creams into a 1-quart bag, and don’t gamble on oversized lotions. If you need a refresher, the official TSA liquids rule is the no-drama reference — worth a peek before you hit the checkpoint on your way back to the gate.

  • Money and ID always accessible. Keep a small “essentials kit” (ID, a backup credit or debit card, some cash, phone) on your person.

  • If you’re a “park and fly” person. For multi-day trips, booking offsite parking in advance means you’re not circling garages at odd hours or paying top-tier prices on return day. Treat it like lodging: The earlier you book, the saner the rate and the smoother your exit.

  • Pack a small mercy. A spare pair of socks. Trust me. Dry wool on cold feet is a personality upgrade. It’s something you don’t ever want to forget to pack.

A gay couple with their carry-on luggage and backpacks have a meal and glasses of wine at a cafe in Minneapolis

A snowed-in layover can be a slog, but it can also be a strangely lovely intermission: a heated stroll above the streets, a real meal, a reset for your brain and back, and a tiny story to take home. You don’t need to conquer Minneapolis in an afternoon; you just need to leave warmer, calmer, and a little bit smug about how well you used the time. –Munazza Faisal

Underrated Weekend Getaways From San Diego

Perfect weather. Gorgeous beaches. Ho hum. From Julian to Baja Wine Country, these underrated weekend getaways from San Diego offer desert stars, mountain cabins, Mexican vineyards, retro pool scenes and all the apple pie you can handle.

A palm tree-lined road in San Diego, leading to the water, at sunset

Let’s be honest: Living in San Diego is both a blessing and a trap. Sunshine 300 days a year. Fish tacos everywhere. Beaches that make postcards jealous.

So why on Earth would anyone want to leave?

The thing about living in San Diego is that the constant perfection can start to feel monotonous.

That’s why it’s essential to escape, even if it’s just for a weekend.

Because perfection gets boring. Eventually, even the world’s most ideal climate starts to feel like a screensaver that won’t turn off. And when that happens, you need to swap your palm trees for pine trees, your surfboard for a road map, and your Baja hoodie for something that actually counts as a jacket.

Here’s how to do that — without joining the crowds in L.A. or pretending Joshua Tree isn’t overrun.

Snow covers the ground at Lake Cuyamaca near Julian, California

1. Julian (for Pie, Pines and People Who Think Snow Is a Novelty)

An hour east of San Diego, Julian feels like stepping into a parallel universe where the air smells like apples and nobody owns a surfboard. The town sits in the Cuyamaca Mountains, complete with crisp air, gold rush history and a suspicious number of pie shops.

Go in autumn if you can — apple-picking season turns the place into a Hallmark movie, minus the sappy soundtrack. In winter, there’s even snow. Actual snow! For San Diegans, it’s practically witchcraft.

Stay overnight, hike around Lake Cuyamaca, and leave with the smug glow of someone who “did the mountains this weekend.”

A giant brown snake sculputre in the desert at Borrego Springs, California

2. Borrego Springs (Desert Solitude With Bonus Giant Lizard)

Two hours northeast lies Borrego Springs, the only International Dark Sky Place in California. Translation: The stars are so intense, they look like they’ve been Photoshopped.

By day, explore Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Think canyons, slot trails and giant metal sculptures scattered through the sand. The 350-foot serpent alone is worth the drive (and the photos).

By night, grab a drink at a local dive, then lean back and watch the Milky Way show off. It’s as close as you’ll get to peace without joining a silent retreat.

Colorful chaise deck chairs by a pool at a Mid-Century Modern home in Palm Springs, California

3. Palm Springs (Mid-Century, Modern Escape)

Palm Springs isn’t exactly a secret, but it remains one of the easiest transformations you can make in a single afternoon: from San Diego surf rat to martini-sipping poolside minimalist.

The desert heat, the Mid-Century design, the ridiculous pool floats — it all works. Rent a retro Airbnb or book a spa hotel, and spend the weekend pretending you’re in a Slim Aarons photo.

Yes, it’s a bit performative. That’s half the fun.

Vineyards in the misty hills of Baja Wine Country in the Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

4. Baja Wine Country (The World’s Most Chill Vineyard Scene)

Cross the border and drive an hour south into Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s not-so-secret wine country. It’s Napa … if Napa cost half as much and didn’t take itself so seriously.

You’ll find open-air restaurants, rolling vineyards and boutique hotels built from reclaimed shipping containers. Order a mezcal cocktail you can’t pronounce, and accept that you’ll probably come home with a few extra bottles.

Pro tip: The sunsets here are the kind that make your phone camera give up and say, “Just live in the moment.”

Trees and a rocky stream near Idyllwild, California

5. Idyllwild (A Forest Hideaway for People Who Still Own Flannel)

Two hours north, tucked into the San Jacinto Mountains, is Idyllwild — a tiny town of artists, hikers and dogs who all seem suspiciously happy. It’s cabin country at its best: pine needles underfoot, jazz bars at night, and trailheads that start behind coffeeshops.

It’s the ideal reset button after a week of traffic, Slack notifications and ubiquitous oceanfront.

A rocky promontory with flowers and palm trees in San Diego overlooks the Pacific Ocean

The Joy of Leaving Paradise

If you’ve ever thought, “I need a vacation from my vacation city,” you get it. The thing about living in San Diego is that the constant perfection can start to feel monotonous. That’s why it’s essential to escape, even if it’s just for a weekend.

You don’t have to plan it from scratch, either. Here’s a curated list of weekend getaways from San Diego that’ll help you find your next mini-adventure — whether that means soaking in a hot tub with mountain views or eating your body weight in pie.

The trick isn’t leaving San Diego forever; it’s remembering that there’s a whole world beyond your idyllic bubble. Sometimes, stepping into the desert or up into the mountains makes you appreciate the beach even more.

And when you roll back into town, tanlines fading and cooler full of wine, you’ll remember why you live here in the first place.

Just don’t tell the tourists that paradise actually gets old. It’ll ruin the mystique. –Shahroz Yousaf


Savannah’s Telfair Academy: Classical Casts, Impressionism and the Bird Girl

Housed in an 1818 Regency-style mansion, the Telfair Academy is the oldest art museum in the South. A can’t-miss stop in Savannah for art lovers, history buffs and fans of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

The yellow facade of the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia, with statues of famous artists and classical columns

The Telfair Academy sits on the east side of Telfair Square, and is a short walk from West Broughton Street.

There’s just something about Savannah, Georgia: the moss-draped live oaks, the historic squares, and the beautiful architecture always draw us back. It’s a living, breathing city that honors its past while still looking toward the future.

Wally and I had visited Savannah many times before — wandering through the artsy, emerging Starland District, strolling up and down Broughton, and popping into the SCAD gift shop more than once. This time though, we decided to visit the Telfair Museums, which included the Telfair Academy and the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters

When we arrived at the Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences, we were greeted by the towering sculptures of Phidias, Michelangelo, Raphael, Rembrandt, and Rubens. Hewn from limestone by Austrian sculptor Viktor Tilgner, each figure stands seven feet, six inches tall. Their commanding presence at the entrance to the stately edifice set the perfect tone for what awaited us inside.

We ascended the steps of the central porch and purchased our tickets at the museum gift shop, which included admission to all three museums: the Telfair Academy, the Jepson Center & Telfair Children’s Art Museum , and the Owens-Thomas House.

Portrait of Dr. George Jones by Rembrandt Peale, 1834

Portrait of Dr. George Jones by Rembrandt Peale, 1834

The History of the Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences

The story of the South’s oldest public art museum begins with the death of Mary Telfair, the last surviving member of one of Savannah’s most prominent antebellum families. When she passed away on June 2, 1875, at the age of 84, she entrusted her Regency-style residence and its contents, along with a generous portion of her personal fortune, to the Georgia Historical Society. Her will stipulated that the home be converted into an institution dedicated to introducing art and culture to the public.  

Fun fact: Mary Telfair’s bequest establishing the Telfair Academy preceded the idea for New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art by just one month, which was conceived by a group of men in Paris on July 4, 1866.

But instead of opening its doors, the house stood silent, caught in legal limbo for nearly a decade. Distant relatives challenged her will, alleging that she was not of sound mind. The dispute dragged on until it reached the U.S. Supreme Court, which ultimately upheld her wishes in Jones v. Habersham in 1883.

With the legal hurdles cleared, the Society’s board appointed the academically trained Carl Ludwig Brandt as the museum’s first director. A German-born painter who had crossed the Atlantic in 1852, Brandt was a trusted friend of Mary’s younger sister, Margaret Telfair Hodgson. In 1874, she commissioned him to paint a portrait of her late husband, William Brown Hodgson. That painting was unveiled at the 1876 dedication ceremony for Hodgson Hall, which Margaret had built in her husband’s memory to house the Society’s collections and library.  

Perhaps it was this connection that convinced the board, and Brandt found himself tasked with the daunting job of converting the home into a cultural institution. He was given $20,000 (about $640,000 today) and passage across the Atlantic to procure works that would shape the museum’s permanent collection: engravings, oil paintings, full-scale plaster replicas of classical statuary, and casts of the Parthenon frieze and east pediment.

When Brandt returned, the board brought on architect Detlef Lienau to enlarge and adapt the home for its new purpose. Lienau removed the original staircase, raised the roofline, expanded the skylight, and effectively doubled the building’s size. Where the garden and former slave quarters once stood, he added a sculpture gallery at street level, topped by a rotunda to showcase the works Brandt had acquired in Europe.

On May 3, 1886, the former family residence officially reopened as the Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences, marking a bold new chapter in Southern cultural history as the first museum in the United States to be founded by a woman.

Staircases at the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia,, and visitors looking at paintings in the hallway

Entrance Hall and Octagon Reception Room

The entrance hall of the Academy bears little resemblance to the original house. Lienau replaced the pine floors with marble and widened the passage to allow guests to move freely through what had once been a private residence. Today, the central corridor displays a range of works — from Harriet Hyatt Mayor’s 1915 bronze sculpture Art and Science to notable examples of 20th century American and French Impressionism and beyond.  

Three Shack Landscape by Hughie Lee-Smith, 1947

Three Shack Landscape by Hughie Lee-Smith, 1947

Hughie Lee-Smith’s haunting surrealistic painting Three Shack Landscape depicts three weathered shacks — one dark brown, one red and one green — standing along a desolate, rocky shoreline beneath heavy blue and gray clouds. A burst of light cuts through, illuminating the dunes and stones around them, while in the foreground a lone pole with a twisted wire juts toward the sky, heightening the sense of isolation.

Lee-Smith was born in Eustis, Florida in 1915 and spent part of his youth in Atlanta before moving to Ohio, where he graduated from the Cleveland School of Art in 1938. After a brief stint in the Navy stationed on the Great Lakes Naval Training Center during World War II, he briefly taught art in South Carolina before settling in Detroit, where economic opportunities for African Americans were more abundant. 

Lee-Smith moved to New York City in 1958, where he taught at the Art Students League. In 1967, he reached a milestone as the second Black artist to be elected to full membership in the National Academy of Design.

Le port de la Rochelle by Gaston Balande, 1949

Le port de la Rochelle by Gaston Balande, 1949

French impressionist painter Gaston Balande’s Le port de la Rochelle captures a lively view of the harbor in La Rochelle, a historic seaport on France’s Atlantic coast. Painted around 1949, the piece reflects the influence of Paul Cézanne, particularly in his exploration of color, line, and form. Rather than relying on traditional perspective and chiaroscuro, light and shade techniques that defined Western art since the Renaissance, Balande used these elements to create depth and solidity. 

Marketing by Robert Gwathmey, 1943

Marketing by Robert Gwathmey, 1943

Robert Gwathmey was an American social realist painter known for his depictions of rural life in the American South, particularly the plight of African American sharecroppers. Born in Richmond, Virginia, in 1903, Gwathmey was deeply influenced by his experiences and observations of the South. In 1944, he spent time working alongside sharecroppers in Rocky Mount, North Carolina, to better understand their lives and challenges. 

Like his contemporaries Jacob Lawrence and Ben Shahn, Gwathmey developed an abstracted figurative style. He utilized bold geometric shapes, flat planes of vibrant color, and minimal shading to convey his social commentary. This approach emphasized form and composition over naturalistic detail, giving his works a powerful and visually striking impact. 

Jerry by Emma Cheves Wilkins, 1944

Jerry by Emma Cheves Wilkins, 1944

Octagon Reception Room

At the front of the Academy is the Octagon Reception Room. Once a traditional period room, it’s been reimagined to host the exhibition One Museum, Many Facades: Telfair Through the Ages. The walls still feature a rare, surviving example of early 19th century trompe-l'œil wood graining, a highly realistic, illusionistic painting technique that was popular when the mansion was built in 1818. 

The room’s sparse décor makes the portrait of Jerry Dickerson above the fireplace mantle all the more special. Savannah artist Emma Cheves Wilkins painted it around 1942, shortly before Dickerson’s retirement after more than 25 years as a janitor at the Academy. This work captures him in his recognizable work attire: a collared shirt, tie, pin, apron and feather duster in hand. He lived in the basement offices, the former slave quarters and carriage house for the mansion.

After leaving the Octagon Reception Room, we passed the former Dining Room, which was undergoing restoration. Continuing down the hall, we came upon a set of staircases with ornate iron railings.

The Sculpture Gallery at the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia, with a lighter section of the floor where a fountain once stood, and a statute of Laocoön and His Sons against the wall

The view of the Sculpture Gallery from the top of the stairs reveals a subtle distinction in the flooring. The lighter-colored area on the marble floor marks the spot once occupied by a fountain installed in 1966 and removed in 1973. 

The Sculpture Gallery

One set of stairs leads to the upper level, while the other descends into the Sculpture Gallery. We took the latter, and the moment we entered, my eyes were drawn to the dramatic plaster cast of Laocoön and His Sons — a copy of the famous Hellenistic masterpiece, which dominates the center of the gallery. Discovered in Rome in 1506 and now housed in the Vatican Museums, the sculpture depicts the Trojan priest Laocoön and his sons, Antiphantes and Thymbraeus, locked in a desperate struggle against deadly sea serpents.

When it first opened, the gallery displayed more than 70 plaster cast reproductions of classical sculptures, including the colossal Toro Farnese, which depicts the myth of Dirce, a cruel queen who was tied to a wild bull and dragged to her death by Amphion and Zethus for their mistreatment of their mother, Antiope.

There’s an unverified rumor that sometime in the 1970s, an Academy curator hosted a “sledgehammer party,” where guests were invited to destroy several of the institution’s large plaster casts. While it makes for a colorful story, there’s no proof to support it.

What almost certainly did happen is less dramatic: artistic tastes changed, and as the museum acquired more original works, the collection was gradually reduced, and in some cases destroyed, due to the high cost of maintaining them.

Top part of a statue of Pudicita, 1st century BCE (cast made before 1893) at Telfair Academy

Pudicita, 1st century BCE (cast made before 1893)

Many of the works now displayed on the walls of the Sculpture Gallery were acquired through the efforts of Julius Garibaldi “Gari” Melchers, an American artist who served as the Academy’s fine arts advisor after Brandt. During his tenure, he acquired more than 70 works for the permanent collection, including many of the museum’s most treasured American Impressionist and Ashcan School paintings.

Stuyvesant Square in Winter, by Ernest Lawson, 1907

Stuyvesant Square in Winter, by Ernest Lawson, 1907

Brooklyn Bridge in Winter by Childe Hassam, 1904

Brooklyn Bridge in Winter by Childe Hassam, 1904

After returning from Paris in 1889, American Impressionist painter Childe Hassam frequently turned his attention to New York City as a subject of his art. The city’s dynamic urban life provided ample inspiration for his work. In Brooklyn Bridge in Winter, Hassam employs pastel colors, a high vantage point, and broken brushstrokes — formal elements characteristic of Impressionism. This style, which he adopted during his time studying in Paris, emphasizes capturing the fleeting effects of light and atmosphere. Like the French Impressionists, Hassam was committed to portraying contemporary subjects drawn from daily life, and New York’s vibrant streets offered him endless material.

Vespers by Gari Melchers, 1892

Vespers by Gari Melchers, 1892

Vespers contains all the hallmarks of  Melchers’s early work: rural Dutch subject matter, a vibrant and colorful palette, and a keen interest in decorative pattern and texture. In this painting Melchers portrays Dutch villagers as hardworking, strong, and devout, tapping into a nostalgic yearning for traditional rural life during a time of rapid industrialization. The painting was originally owned by Walther Rathenau, an industrialist, writer and politician from Berlin who helped found the German Democratic Party.

Landscape grouping, with Shaghead by George Wesley Bellows and By the River by István Boznay, 1913 

Landscape grouping, with Shaghead by George Wesley Bellows and By the River by István Boznay, 1913 

Lingering Snows by Willard Leroy Metcalf, 1924

Lingering Snows by Willard Leroy Metcalf, 1924

In this panoramic view of mountains and a stream, Willard Leroy Metcalf captures the serene beauty of a New England spring. The painting showcases his signature Impressionist style, characterized by subtle harmonies of green and purple tones that evoke the gentle light of the season. This relatively large canvas was likely painted on site in Woodstock, Vermont, on the Ottauquechee River. Metcalf employs quick, textured brushstrokes, allowing the canvas to show through, to define the trees and left shore. Thicker paint applied with a palette knife in a blend of salmon and lime represents the sky, while soft, lightly mottled colors depict the river, the right shore, and the deep blue mountain shadow. Most striking is the irregular patch of snow resting in the upper right mountain dale, its whiteness matched only by the reflected white clouds in the river.

The Rotunda Gallery at the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia, with blue walls covered with paintings, and a yellow circular settee with a vase of flowers atop it and a woman sitting on it, looking at her phone

The Rotunda Gallery

We made our way back up the stairs and into the Rotunda Gallery: a breathtaking, spacious two-story room designed by Brandt and Lienau to emulate the grandeur of a 19th century European salon. Artworks in this style are hung close together on the walls, as opposed to being spaced out individually. 

Grouping featuring works by Adolf Lüben, Robert Seldon Duncanson, George Majewicz and Guido Von Maffei

Grouping featuring works by Adolf Lüben, Robert Seldon Duncanson, George Majewicz and Guido Von Maffei

Look up, and you’ll see four paintings by Brandt positioned at the cardinal points of the gallery. Each work depicts a master of one of the four primary art forms, according to his view: Apelles for painting (west), Iktinos for architecture (north), Praxiteles for sculpture (east), and Albrecht Dürer for printmaking (south). The inclusion of three Ancient Greek artists reflects the late 19th century reverence for classical art and culture.

The Black Prince at Crécy by Julian Russell Story, 1888

The Black Prince at Crécy by Julian Russell Story, 1888

Brandt purchased the impressive The Black Prince at Crécy from the artist Julian Story in 1889. Brandt acquired the painting with his own funds and donated it to the museum upon his death. The dramatic work portrays the aftermath of the Battle of Crécy during the Hundred Years’ War, and contrasts the historic figure of the Black Prince (the Prince of Wales) with the lifeless body of the fallen King John of Bohemia, highlighting the clash of heroism and tragedy on the battlefield.

La Parabola by Cesare Laurenti, 1895

La Parabola by Cesare Laurenti, 1895

Cesare Laurenti was born near Ferrara, Italy, but spent most of his life in Venice — the setting of La Parabola. In Laurenti’s day, German artists nicknamed the work Lebensbrücke, or Bridge of Life

In a letter to Brandt, Laurenti explained that the painting was meant to reflect the course of human life, “the race toward pleasure, until clouds of weighty thoughts and sorrow come to disturb the serenity of the young soul.” 

The first part of the scene is a lively celebration: two young men invite a group of young women to join in songs and laughter. At a doorway, a suitor representing Love kisses a girl’s cheek as she steps inside. 

But the mood soon darkens. The same girl, now pensive, appears behind a window, her youth already fading. The scene then shifts to the entrance of a church, where “poor suffering souls seek relief.” Here, Laurenti wrote, “one can see the man, who, clad in priestly garments, represents Faith.”

Jour de régates, Menton (Regatta Day, Menton) by Alfred E. Stevens, 1894

Jour de régates, Menton (Regatta Day, Menton) by Alfred E. Stevens, 1894

A view of the upper gallery of the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia, with a plaster casting of part of the frieze from the Parthenon in Athens, Greece

A view of the upper gallery, with a plaster casting of part of the frieze from the Parthenon in Athens, Greece

Second Floor Galleries 

Upstairs, the rooms that once served as the Telfair family’s bedrooms were converted into galleries and feature works from the Academy’s permanent collections as well as temporary exhibitions. To make space for hanging art, original features like windows and fireplaces were covered up, leaving wide, uninterrupted walls for display.

The first two galleries held the ongoing exhibit Craft Along the Coast and included works from Telfair’s permanent collection that date from the 18th to the late 20th centuries. The first gallery presents examples of woodworking, ceramics and painting, while the second focuses on Savannah’s silversmithing traditions. Both galleries tell stories of markets and craft legacies, helping to draw lines of continuity through a dynamic history.

Old City Market by Augusta Denk Oelschig, 1950

Old City Market by Augusta Denk Oelschig, 1950

Savannah native Augusta Denk Oelschig painted Old City Market, a lively portrayal of the City Market building that occupied Ellis Square from about 1872 to 1953. In the scene, the market pulses with life: Shoppers, vendors, produce stands and even animals are in motion across the square. 

When the building was razed in 1954, the loss galvanized the community, and helped spark the creation of the Historic Savannah Foundation the next year, which continues to protect and preserve the city’s historic architecture. 

In 1947, during a trip to Mexico, Oelschig met muralists Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco, whose work left a lasting impression on her. Inspired by the political and social themes in their art, she returned to Savannah with plans for a mural depicting the history of Georgia. Intended for the Savannah High School, her drafts included imagery of Ku Klux Klan members whipping African Americans and a reference to a politician later associated with the the Klan. Unsurprisingly, the school’s conservative officials rejected the proposal.

Savannah by Andrée Ruellan, 1942

Savannah by Andrée Ruellan, 1942

In Savannah, Andrée Ruellan captures the view of the river seen between buildings and down a cobblestone ramp that leads to the wharves. The painting’s small figures (including a man with a cane and a vendor with children) evoke the quiet, everyday life of the waterfront rather than a bustling port. 

Savannah’s riverfront historically relied on ramps (Barnard, Bull, Abercorn, Lincoln, etc.) down to River Street and its wharves, which is exactly the kind of setting Ruellan sketched. The waterfront was also a center for local craft traditions; Savannah has a documented history of woodcarving and walking-stick makers.  

The statue of the Bird Girl statue, holding two bowls in her hands, in an exhibit at the Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia

The iconic Bird Girl. Her outstretched arms don’t actually symbolize the weighing of good and evil — the shallow bowls in her upturned hands were intended to hold water and birdseed. 

The Bird Girl of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil Fame

I was especially intrigued by the gallery featuring Before Midnight: Bonaventure and the Bird Girl. It showcases artwork from Bonaventure Cemetery, including the famous statue. 

Created in 1936 by Sylvia Shaw Judson, a sculptor from Lake Forest, Illinois, Bird Girl was first exhibited in 1938 at the Art Institute of Chicago under the title Girl With Bowls. Judson originally cast six versions, one in lead and five in bronze, but later stated that only four bronze casts were ever made. 

One of the original bronzes was purchased by Savannah native Lucy Boyd Trosdal and installed in her family’s plot in Bonaventure Cemetery, where it was affectionately nicknamed “Little Wendy.”

For decades, the statue remained largely unnoticed — until photographer Jack Leigh captured its haunting image at dusk for the cover of John Berendt’s bestselling nonfiction novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, thrusting “Little Wendy” and the city into the national spotlight. Concerned about the crowds it began to attract, Trosdal removed the statue from the cemetery and loaned it to the Academy, ensuring it would be protected for future generations.

Fun fact: Jim Williams, the central figure in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, wasn’t just a successful antiques dealer and historic preservationist — he also served as president of the Telfair Academy.

An iron gate fragment from Bonaventure Cemetery hangs on the wall at Telfair Academy in Savannah, Georgia

An iron gate fragment from Bonaventure Cemetery hangs on the wall. 

Bonaventure by Louis Bouché, 1969

Bonaventure by Louis Bouché, 1969

Bonaventure Cemetery by Henry Clernewerck, 1860

Bonaventure Cemetery by Henry Clernewerck, 1860

Plaster bust of the Telfair Academy’s first director, Carl Brandt, by John Walz, 1891, in Savannah, Georgia

Plaster bust of the Academy’s first director, Carl Brandt, by John Walz, 1891

Stay Awhile: Interiors in Art 

The last gallery featured a selection of paintings from the Academy’s permanent collection that focused on interior settings. 

Rather than emphasizing a specific narrative, the labels beside each painting encouraged visitors to form their own interpretations of the works. 

The Lacemakers by Walter MacEwen, 1900

The Lacemakers by Walter MacEwen, 1900

In The Lacemakers, three seated Dutch women are engaged in tatting the edges of a large piece of white fabric. Behind them, a man stands by a window, smoking a pipe and staring at the woman on the left, who seems lost in thought. The palette is dominated by muted, silvery tones, enlivened by the bright red bodices of two of the women and the tiny potted flowers on the windowsills.

A native of Chicago, Walter MacEwen had originally planned to pursue a career in business, but an unexpected event changed the course of his life.

When a destitute painter asked MacEwen for a small loan, the artist left his paint and brushes as collateral. He never returned to collect them, and MacEwen began to experiment with the abandoned materials.

By 1877 he had departed for Europe, where he studied under Frank Duveneck at the Royal Academy in Munich, and later at the Académie Julian in Paris. By the mid-1880s, MacEwen had established studios in Paris and Holland spending sixty years in Europe before returning to the United States in 1939. 

Café Fortune Teller by Mary Hoover Aiken, 1933 

Café Fortune Teller by Mary Hoover Aiken, 1933 

The style of Café Fortune Teller evokes elements of American scene painting, characterized by its focus on everyday life and its narrative quality. The work was completed on the island of Ibiza prior to the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War and depicts the artist reading her own fortune amidst the bustle of a café. In 1936, Mary Hoover met the Savannah-born poet Conrad Aiken, whom she married in 1937. Her later works included portraits of famed author T.S. Eliot and British painter Edward Burra, and she also had solo exhibitions at the Telfair in 1964 and 1975.

Wally and I visited on a weekday and spent about 90 minutes exploring the galleries and browsing the gift shop. Admission for adults was $30, valid for seven days from the date of purchase and offers access to all three museums. –Duke

Telfair Academy Visitor Information

Hours of Operation

Open Wednesday through Monday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.  
Closed on Tuesdays  

Admission Fees

Tickets grant unlimited access to all three Telfair museums (Telfair Academy, Jepson Center and Owens-Thomas House) for seven days from the date of purchase. 

Adult: $30  
Senior (65+): $27  
Active military (with ID): $27  
Student (ages 13 to 25, with ID): $20  
Child (ages 6 to 12): $10  
Child (5 and under): Free  

Accessibility and Visitor Services

Wheelchair accessible: Yes. Entrance is on the south side facing President Street (with nearby accessible parking and elevator access).  

Sketching: Allowed with pencil only; sketchbooks no larger than 8½ by 11 inches. No easels or sitting on the floor.  

Photography: Non-flash photography is permitted for personal use unless otherwise posted. Tripods, selfie sticks, lights and other gear are prohibited.  

Checkroom policy: Bags larger than 11 by 14 inches must be checked. Laptops and luggage are not accepted.  

Strollers: Restricted in the historic Telfair Academy and Owens-Thomas House but welcome at the Jepson Center.  

Why You Should Visit the Telfair Academy

Historical significance: Established in 1886, it’s one of the first public art museums in the U.S. and the first in the South.  

Architectural beauty: A Regency-style mansion designed by English architect William Jay (built 1818 to 1820).  

Collections and highlights: 19th and 20th century American and European art, restored period rooms, decorative arts and the famed Bird Girl statue.  

Telfair Academy 

121 Barnard Street 
Savannah, Georgia 31401
USA

 

The Sea Loft Treehouses of Deer Island: Sea Pine’s Hidden Gem

Where is Deer Island? This hideaway within Sea Pines Plantation feels like a secret world on stilts. These quirky octagonal “treehouse” villas have roots in radical planning, not just marsh mud.

I was about 12 years old the first time I stumbled upon the enchanting enclave of Deer Island. At the time, my family spent a week vacationing on Hilton Head Island every year, and most afternoons, my brother, the Hollister girls and I would hop on our bikes to explore the winding trails of Sea Pines. We often ended up in Harbour Town for ice cream — but now and then we’d take a detour. And that’s how we found it: the treehouses of Deer Island, hidden away, like something out of a storybook.

Years later, when my parents retired and made Hilton Head their full-time home, my husband, Duke, and I continued the tradition: going for bike rides just like I did as a kid — only now we stop for coffee, frozen cocktails and ice cream. On one of those visits, we discovered a shortcut to Harbour Town. As we pedaled along Calibogue Cay Road, looking for a secret passage to Harbour Town we had heard about, I spotted a small sign and a narrow path disappearing into the woods. Curiosity (and the promise of shade) pulled us in.

Why octagons?

Because they’re practical and poetic. No big blank walls to block views. Every angled facet has a window or sliding glass door, offering wraparound vistas and loads of natural light.

As we emerged from the path, the houses immediately clued us into the fact that we had found a back entrance to Deer Island. This maritime hammock surrounded by salt marsh has its road access at the other end, accessible by a wooden bridge over the colorfully named Heddy Gutter Creek near CQ’s Restaurant. 

The main entrance to Deer Island across from Harbour Town

It’s the houses on Deer Island that immediately capture your attention. Perched among the trees, and built around a central pillar, these octagonal dwellings feel like the Ewok Village on the Forest Moon of Endor. 

But these homes aren’t simply whimsical treehouses. They were part of a bold, eco-conscious vision that redefined coastal development — decades before “sustainable” became a corporate buzzword. The 74 freestanding Sea Lofts were unlike anything else on Hilton Head Island: a cross between futuristic retreat and Swiss Family Robinson hideaway.

How Sea Pines Gave Rise to a Treehouse Island

The story of Deer Island begins in 1956 with developer Charles E. Fraser, who set out to build a different kind of coastal community — one that didn’t pave over paradise to put up a parking lot. A law school graduate with a passion for conservation, Fraser turned his Sea Pines Plantation Company into a proving ground for planning principles that would go on to influence resort communities from Kiawah Island, also in South Carolina, to Costa Rica. (The word “Plantation” was eventually dropped from the name due to its associations with slavery.)

Fraser’s philosophy was simple but radical: Build around nature, not over it. That meant curving roads to preserve trees, designing low-slung homes that blended into the landscape, and enforcing strict architectural guidelines banning bright colors, boxy footprints and big egos.

“We didn’t want to build a resort,” Fraser once said. “We wanted to build a community.”

Sea Pines became a visionary experiment in eco-conscious design as well as a haven for architecture buffs, environmentalists, and anyone who prefers to sleep where the egrets (and alligators) roam.

By the late 1960s, Sea Pines was booming. The iconic red-and-white Harbour Town Lighthouse was completed in 1970, and Hilton Head was quickly becoming a premier coastal destination. Amid this growth, Fraser and his team, including renowned landscape architect Hideo Sasaki and urban designer Stuart Dawson, began sketching out something entirely different: a marshfront community that would feel like a private island while still offering access to nearby beaches, restaurants and shops.

That idea became Deer Island. Completed in 1971, it marked a bold shift in Sea Pines’ residential offerings. Instead of vacation estates, the Sea Lofts were designed to be compact, elevated and unconventional. These octagonal bungalows featured open floor plans that maximized views and minimized environmental impact. Each home overlooks a tidal creek or salt marsh, without disrupting the lush canopy of trees.

Fraser’s team believed the natural landscape should take the lead. While the rest of the island leaned into more conventional development, Deer Island embraced its own quiet charm: no shops, hardly any traffic — just birdsong, breezes and the occasional deer wandering beneath your house. Because, yes, we’ve seen plenty of deer on Deer Island.

Yes, there are plenty of deer on Deer Island — but the treehouses are the stars.

Deer Island Homes: A Style Designed to Disappear

If you’ve ever been to Sea Pines and wondered, “Where are all the houses?” — that’s the point. Deer Island takes that idea to the extreme. From across the marsh, the homes vanish into the canopy. Even up close, you might find yourself squinting through loblolly pines, palmettos and live oaks, trying to spot the angular lines of a Sea Loft villa. These houses were meant to exist in harmony with their surroundings.

Fraser and his team set strict guidelines: low rooflines, muted earthy colors and tree preservation. In fact, if you have to cut down a tree on a Sea Pines property, you’re required to plant new ones to match the original trunk’s diameter in inches. 

The result? A neighborhood that feels like it grew there — even though every detail was carefully planned, down to the last railing. 

Architecturally, it’s a style referred to as Hilton Head Modern, or sometimes, Lowcountry Modern. Think deep overhangs, shaded porches, wide windows and colors inspired by the ubiquitous live oaks. You won’t find any pink stucco or coral trim here. It’s less Miami Beach flash, more Zen retreat in the marsh.

The Octagonal Treehouses of Deer Island

Now let’s talk shape.

The Sea Loft villas are small — roughly 800 to 900 square feet — but they pack a punch. Each is octagonal, lifted one story aboveground on wooden pilings. I’m not the only one who calls them “treehouses,” and while no rope ladders are involved, the vibe is spot on.

Why octagons? Because they’re practical and poetic. No big blank walls to block views. Every angled facet has a window or sliding glass door, offering wraparound vistas and loads of natural light. Inside, the open floor plan and vaulted ceilings make the small footprint feel more spacious. 

And because the homes are up on pilings, you’re always eye level with the birds and squirrels. Beneath the houses, deer graze. As mentioned, the island lives up to its name.

On top of the views, the design is functional. The elevated structure lets floodwaters pass beneath, which is kind of a big deal on a barrier island prone to hurricanes. The shape helps diminish wind during storms. And the materials — often cedar siding, weathered to a silvery brown — hold up beautifully in salt air.

The People Behind the Planning of Deer Island

There may not be a single “starchitect” behind Deer Island, but its DNA can be traced back to a team of forward-thinking planners. Fraser may have been the frontman and public face of the project, but his collaborators included some of the most influential figures in landscape architecture and urban design of the 1960s and ’70s.

Take Sasaki, widely regarded as one of the most influential landscape architects of the 20th century. He believed that good design should serve both people and the planet — a rare point of view at the time. Working alongside his colleague Dawson at Sasaki, Dawson & DeMay, the pair helped shape Sea Pines into a model of what environmentally conscious development could look like. Dawson introduced the concept of “leisure villages” and laid out the roads in short loops, T-intersections and cul-de-sacs — not just to reduce traffic, but to preserve views and soften the human footprint. To this day, planners still point to his designs as best in class.

Supporting players included local landscape architect Joe Harden, who laid out much of Sea Pines’ lush greenery and trails, and Phil Lader, a young planner who later wrote about Fraser’s groundbreaking approach. Even the Sea Pines Architectural Review Board deserves a shoutout; they enforced the color palettes and tree preservation like they were protecting the Mona Lisa.

Still, it all comes back to Fraser. He may not have drawn every line or plotted every trail, but he set the tone — and made sure everyone followed it.

A Living Legacy (With Real Estate Perks)

Fast forward 50 years. Hilton Head has undeniably changed. Sea Pines has grown, the lighthouse area has been completely renovated, and plenty of the early homes have been replaced by larger, multimillion-dollar structures (though they still adhere to his aesthetic).

But not on Deer Island.

Here, the original 74 Sea Loft villas are still standing — weathered, yes, but proudly so. They’ve been updated inside, though, and a few have gotten modest expansions or screened-in porches. But the exteriors? Still hugging trees. Still octagonal. Still charming.

Heddy Gutter Creek. leading out to Calibogue Sound

In an industry where teardown culture reigns, Deer Island is a time capsule that’s only gained value. Buyers today are part of a design legacy. A slice of Sea Pines history. A front-row seat to the marsh.

Prices reflect that. In the past few years, sales have ranged from mid-$600,000 to just over $1 million, depending on the view and renovation level. 

Real estate agents pitch it as immersive natural surroundings” and private tranquility, but you could just say: It feels good here. Like someone actually cared about how people would live — and how the land would look half a century later.

Spoiler: It looks great.

Deer Island: A Small Isle With a Big Idea

Deer Island may be small, but it punches well above its weight — architecturally, historically and spiritually. It’s a place where planners once dared to ask, “What if we didn’t bulldoze the trees?” — and then literally built the homes around (and among) them. A place where you can sip coffee on your deck while snowy egrets and blue herons glide past.

It’s Hilton Head at its most thoughtful. Most peaceful. Most quietly radical.

And in a world where luxury often means “more,” Deer Island whispers a different kind of promise: less square footage, more soul. The kind of place that still feels like a secret.

So if you ever find yourself in Sea Pines, look for that discreet entrance en route to Harbour Town and follow it. See what happens when development makes room for the wild things. You might just find yourself dreaming of life inside one of these architectural marvels like we do. –Wally