One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés.
If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course.
Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).
“Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.”
This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.
1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.
Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track.
Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.
Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment.
There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.
As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.
Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.
2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.
Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks.
We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail.
Lemon ricotta pancakes
Eggs Benedict
I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom.
ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa
A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.
3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is.
Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now. Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders.
This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.
Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.
At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.
Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.
Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.
This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.
Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke
