la condesa

Mexico City Travel Guide: Best Things to Do in CDMX, Neighborhoods & Itinerary

Everything you need to plan a Mexico City vacation, from where to stay and what to eat to museums, architecture, markets and hidden gems across CDMX.

Wally and Duke pose in cutouts of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

Frida and Diego, err, Wally and Duke offer up this guide to CDMX.

I hesitate to write this guide. Sure, I could rave about Mexico City for days — but that’s exactly the problem. I don’t want it to get too popular. There’s something special about CDMX that feels like a secret, and every time someone returns, I ask, “Did you love it?” The answer is always a resounding yes. It’s a city with undeniable magic. But maybe it’s time we stop singing its praises quite so loudly before it gets overrun and loses its charm. (And it’s already well on its way, as the recent protests against expats and digital nomads, who have driven up rents and fast-tracked gentrification, can attest.)

For one thing, Mexico City is an embarrassment of riches, with enough history, art and culture to keep even the most seasoned traveler captivated for weeks on end. Like Paris, you can spend a week here and barely scratch the surface. With every neighborhood offering something unique — from the bohemian charm of Coyoacán to the vibrant streets of La Condesa — there’s an endless amount to explore.

To help you navigate this sprawling city, we’ve organized our guide by neighborhood, highlighting the best markets, museums, landmarks, restaurants and quirky spots that make CDMX unforgettable. Whether you’re hunting for artisan crafts, enjoying a peaceful moment at a museum, or getting a little creeped out at the Island of the Dead Dolls on the canals of Xochimilco, this guide will take you through the gems that make Mexico City one of the most thrilling destinations in the world. 

Just accept the fact that you’ll just have to pick the things that appeal to you the most, knowing that you can’t hit them all — and that you have a reason for coming back. 

Click on any of the links for deeper dives into these spots. 

Centro Histórico

The famous staircase inside Palacio Postal in Mexico City's Centro

Most Instagrammable Places in Centro

Our guide to the most Instagrammable spots in Mexico City’s Centro takes you through one of CDMX’s most photogenic neighborhoods, where colonial architecture, Art Nouveau landmarks and modern public art collide. Our self-guided photo tour begins at the Sinagoga Histórica, whose unassuming façade gives way to a stunning folk art-inspired sanctuary, before continuing to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, birthplace of the Mexican muralism movement. Along the way, stop for lunch on the rooftop at La Casa de las Sirenas, overlooking the Catedral Metropolitana and (unimpressive) Templo Mayor, then admire the cathedral’s lavish Baroque interior before wandering past the tiled façade of the Casa de los Azulejos.

Next, duck into the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México to marvel at its soaring stained-glass ceiling, then don’t miss the spectacular Palacio Postal, where twin gilded staircases and intricate brasswork make it one of the city’s most photogenic interiors. From there, cross to Sears for the iconic view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes dome before wrapping up with the Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez in Alameda Central and the striking red pyramids of Fuente de Vicente Rojo just across the street.

A statue in front of the orange and yellow domed Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City's Centro neighborhood

Palacio de Bellas Artes

From the outside, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is a stunning Art Nouveau dome-topped palace glowing across Centro Histórico; inside, it’s home to Mexico’s premier opera house, the National Museum of Architecture, and a renowned collection of murals that provoke as much as they awe. We first glimpsed its golden crown from across the street, taking in the best view from Sears department store. But on another visit, we dove into the heart of the building, to find that in the Palacio’s mural museum, Mexico’s famous large-scale artists — Rivera, Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros — don’t hold back.

Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe takes center stage, revisiting his controversial commission for the Rockefeller Center — destroyed for depicting Lenin. Here, Karl Marx and Charles Darwin rub shoulders. Meanwhile, Orozco’s Catharsis unleashes a dystopia where naked bodies and mechanical beasts clash, featuring the infamous La Chata, a grinning prostitute, who adds to the mural’s disturbing reputation. Each mural tells a story, whether it’s Siqueiros’ dream of Cuauhtémoc defeating the conquistadors or Rivera’s sly digs at White tourists and their clichés in Carnival of Mexican Life. The collection is edgy and bold, and it’s impossible to walk away without feeling like the walls just had the last word.

The top of the Monumento a la Revolución in Mexico City

Monumento a la Revolución

The Monument to the Revolution is a triumphal arch with some serious swagger. Originally destined to be the Palacio Legislativo Federal, the grand project was abandoned when the Mexican Revolution took center stage. For two decades, the half-built structure just sat there, rusting away. But then architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia had a better idea: turn that mess into a towering 220-foot icon, now the tallest triumphal arch in the world. Take that, Arc de Triomphe!

Today, the monument wears many hats: mausoleum, observation deck and revolutionary museum, with a little copper-clad cupola action thrown in for good measure. The glass elevator ride up the center is worth it for the views alone, but the exposed steel innards are also worth checking out. 

Meanwhile, down below, the National Museum of the Revolution does its best to impress with its “avant-garde” exhibits (we’ll take their word for it). 

Outside, the Plaza de la República buzzes with vendors selling everything from T-shirts to street snacks, and the sunken garden gives you a breather from the city’s chaos.

Chapultepec Park

The rooftop garden and observatory tower by a fountain and hedges in Mexico City's Chapultepec Castle

Chapultepec Castle

A castle in the middle of Mexico City? Yes, really — perched atop Chapultepec Hill, this once-imperial palace is now a museum, a monument and a mood. From its sweeping views to its storybook staircases, Chapultepec Castle delivers drama at every turn.

On our visit, we followed the winding hilltop path, dodging packs of schoolchildren to reach the gates. Once inside, things get surreal. French chandeliers, trompe-l’œil ceilings, and checkerboard floors speak to its time as Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota’s royal residence, when the castle played dress-up as a European palace. And don’t miss the stained glass gallery of Muses and the rooftop garden.

The castle also houses the National Museum of History — and the exhibits remind you that while emperors played house, revolutionaries were gearing up to take it all down. Cases hold Aztec codices, colonial relics and revolutionary banners. It’s a crash course in Mexico’s past, where empires rose, ideals clashed, and the culture kept reinventing itself.

Animal heads and other carvings on parts of an Aztec temple in CDMX's Museo Nacional de Antropología

Museo Nacional de Antropología

The museum doesn’t wait until the galleries to wow you — its massive umbrella fountain out front rains spectacle on everyone walking in. Inside, soaring halls hold colossal Olmec heads, Aztec sun stones and Maya stelae — alongside delicate figurines that speak to everyday life. Every gallery plunges you deeper into the civilizations that shaped Mexico long before the Spanish arrived. My favorite part: Various galleries lead outside, where you feel like you’ve stumbled into the jungle and discovered an ancient temple and artifacts.

Another highlight? The way animals come to life in pottery and sculpture, each one symbolizing something sacred, fierce or divine. Here’s what we uncovered about animal symbolism in pre-Columbian pottery.

And if you’re drawn to the darker corners of history, don’t miss the exhibits on burial rituals and offerings. From jade beads in the mouths of the dead to xolo dogs sacrificed as guides to the afterlife, the museum doesn’t shy away from the raw power of the death cults of Ancient Mexico.

La Condesa

Brightly colored buildings in CDMX's La Condesa neighborhood

Morning in La Condesa

Start your morning in La Condesa, where Avenida Amsterdam’s tree-lined oval leads you past Art Deco gems and green spaces that feel worlds away from the city’s hustle. The avenue’s curving path traces the outline of an old racetrack. As you stroll, keep an eye out for the architectural detail: Streamline Moderne façades and stylish mansions make every turn a feast for the eyes.

For breakfast, we recommend Frëims, tucked inside a renovated 1920s home. The sun-drenched patio is perfect for savoring a coffee or one of their fresh juice blends, while admiring the mural. Fuel up on something like the lemon ricotta pancakes or huevos benedictinos, then take a leisurely walk over to Parque México. This green space, once home to an elite jockey club, now offers a mix of dog walkers, skaters and public art, like the Fountain of the Pitchers, which immortalizes Luz Jiménez as the iconic indigenous beauty of the 1920s. Whether you’re there for a stroll or just people-watching, La Condesa’s vibe is pure magic.

Where to stay in La Condesa

The interior courtyard / eating area with stones and plants trailing off balconies at Octavia Casa in Mexico City, Mexico

Octavia Casa

Octavia Casa is where minimalist design meets boutique charm, offering a chic retreat from the mellow bustle of La Condesa. The hotel’s teak lattice façade and the tropical plants spilling out over the concrete and glass exterior provide a touch of nature in the urban landscape. It’s a natural extension of the Octavia fashion brand, with spaces inspired by the label’s understated style, brought to life through thoughtful details like chukum stucco walls and muted earth tones that give each room an airy, welcoming vibe.

Mornings begin with a breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, pastries and handmade mugs. The staff go above and beyond, from a surprise birthday bottle of wine to Silvia’s heartfelt hugs. Evenings bring a different ambiance, with candlelight and libations on offer, perfect for winding down after a day of exploring CDMX. It’s hard not to feel special here, especially when you happen to be sharing the space with stars like Natalia Lafourcade.

Where to eat in La Condesa

Breakfast dishes from Ojo de Agua in La Condesa, Mexico City

Ojo de Agua

Ojo de Agua in La Condesa is where health-conscious meets delicious. Situated near the lush Avenida Amsterdam and Plaza Citaltépetl, this fast casual café has a bright, fresh vibe and a fruit stand right inside. Named after a Michoacán town, the restaurant channels a commitment to living well, celebrating fresh ingredients in dishes that don’t skimp on flavor. The interior is casual chic, with Mudéjar-style tiles, big windows and plenty of natural light, while the outdoor seating is perfect for soaking up the neighborhood’s morning buzz.

The menu has something for everyone, from açaí bowls to cinnamon roll French toast, but we couldn’t resist the savory options. The santos ahogados, with its poached eggs, grilled panela and two salsas over a heart-shaped hoja santa leaf, brought a rich balance of flavors, while the huevos Polanco paired eggs with avocado purée and a za’atar-spiced jocoque. With Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” playing in the background and fresh juice from the bar to finish things off, Ojo de Agua left us feeling fully satisfied and ready to take on CDMX.

Roma

Where to stay in Roma

The backyard of Ignacia Guest House in Mexico City, with cacti, a water feature, bar and trees

Ignacia Guest House

Ignacia Guest House in Colonia Roma is a sophisticated blend of historic charm and modern elegance, tucked away in one of Mexico City’s most picturesque neighborhoods. The meticulously restored 1913 mansion captures the spirit of the area with its Neoclassical and Art Nouveau touches, while the modern wing adds a sleek contrast of glass and steel. Named after the beloved housekeeper who spent more than 70 years living and working in the home, Ignacia’s story is woven into every detail, from the Oaxacan cactus garden she planted to the woodcut portraits of her displayed in the lobby. We stayed in the Azul suite, which features reclaimed bowling alley maple floors and Carrara marble bathroom fixtures, providing the perfect mix of rustic and luxe.

The daily breakfast menu, crafted from Ignacia’s original recipes, offers a delicious start to the day, complete with fresh pastries and locally sourced ingredients. We especially loved the cocktail hour, where we sampled mezcal-infused drinks with sal de gusano (worm salt) and even tried crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) — because when in Rome… or, Roma. The courtyard patio is a central hub for socializing, shaded by ivy-covered walls and overlooked by the glass corridor that connects the new and old buildings. As much as the architecture and gardens enchanted us, it was the warm and welcoming staff who truly made us feel at home. 

Coyoacán

The fountain of two wolves in the square of Coyoacán in Mexico City

Wandering Coyoacán

An afternoon in Coyoacán offers a perfect mix of history, culture and a bit of boho chic. Start in Plaza Hidalgo, where the Fuente de los Coyotes splashes in the heart of a classic colonial square, and balloon vendors and palm-leaf crickets are part of the scene. Nearby, Los Danzantes serves up dishes like cricket croquetas and mezcal cocktails, perfect for people-watching while soaking up the bohemian vibe.

Wander into the Mercado Artesanal Mexicano for quirky souvenirs like Oaxacan alebrijes or oddball folk art, then recharge at Panadería Pública with a coffee and a guava pastry. Just a short stroll away, Plaza de la Conchita offers a quiet escape, where the 16th century chapel holds stories of Hernán Cortés’ time in the neighborhood. Finish at Frida Kahlo Park, where topiary animals greet you and teenagers practice salsa moves under bougainvilleas, and a mural by Dan Silva adds a burst of color. Coyoacán’s charm is irresistible, making it easy to see why artists and dreamers have called it home.

The bright blue Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo's family home, surrounded by greenery, in CDMX

La Casa Azul: The Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul, or the Frida Kahlo Museum, is as bold and layered as the artist herself, with its vibrant cobalt walls and eclectic blend of art, artifacts, and personal relics. The iconic blue-painted house in Coyoacán offers a glimpse into the world of Frida and Diego Rivera, where the bohemian spirit comes alive in the courtyard’s botanical garden and the interiors filled with papel picado, Tehuana dresses, and intricate folk art. We recommend booking tickets well in advance and arriving early to avoid the hours-long wait; it’s worth it to step inside this iconic space where Kahlo’s personality radiates from every corner.

From her wheelchair and easel to her night bed with a mirror overhead—where she painted while bedridden—La Casa Azul tells the story of an artist who turned pain into beauty. The house is filled with fascinating details, like the miniature clay mugs spelling out “Frida” and “Diego” above the stove, or the ashes resting in a pre-Columbian urn beside her bed. Beyond the personal spaces, you’ll find rooms with her lesser-known artworks, a display of her distinctive wardrobe, and even a pyramid of pre-Columbian sculptures Rivera added to the garden. The whole experience leaves a lasting impression, as if you’ve walked through the pages of Frida’s life story, with every object and plant bearing witness to her creative and resilient spirit.

Murals on the ceiling, arches, pews and a red carpet runner inside Parroquia San Juan Bautista in Mexico City

Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Parroquia San Juan Bautista, or La Iglesia de Coyoacán, is a captivating piece of Spanish colonial history nestled in Mexico City’s bohemian Coyoacán neighborhood. Built between 1527 and 1552 on the site of an Aztec noble school, the church’s relatively plain Herrerian-style exterior belies the ornate Baroque splendor within. Step inside, and you’re greeted by gilded altars, frescoed ceilings depicting Christ’s life, and an array of small chapels, including the opulent Chapel of the Rosary.

The church is full of fascinating details, from the creepy yet compelling Cristo de los Milagros, adorned with healing charms, to niche statues and elaborate ornamentation that evoke Mexico’s blend of indigenous and Catholic traditions. Don’t miss wandering the peaceful cloisters out back, where Nahuatl-speaking converts were once baptized. La Iglesia de Coyoacán is not just a church; it’s a glimpse into the neighborhood’s layered history and enduring cultural richness. Read more here.

The stone exterior of Museo Anahuacalli at sunset

Museo Anahuacalli

The Anahuacalli Museum is unlike any other—a temple-like structure housing Diego Rivera’s vast collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts. Built on the rugged volcanic rock of El Pedregal, this black basalt museum rises like a Mesoamerican pyramid, surrounded by myth and history. Rivera envisioned it as a place to contemplate Mexico’s ancient past, with over 50,000 artifacts collected over his lifetime, though only a fraction is displayed. The museum’s dim and cool interior, lit by alabaster windows, creates an otherworldly atmosphere, while colorful ofrendas and papier-mâché alebrijes burst against the stone.

Inside, narrow staircases lead you up through galleries filled with Zapotec, Maya, Aztec, and Olmec relics, culminating in Rivera’s art studio on the sunlit second floor, where you can see studies for his controversial murals. The rooftop terrace offers a stark contrast to the dark confines below, with panoramic views of CDMX. Rivera’s passion for the past comes to life here, where mythological mosaics, jaguar statues, and Mesoamerican symbolism honor Mexico’s ancient heritage. It’s an unforgettable experience that feels as much like stepping into a temple as it does a museum.

San Ángel

Paper skulls hang by craft vendors at the Bazar Sábado in San Angel, Mexico City

Bazar Sábado

The Bazar Sábado in San Ángel is a Saturday-only spectacle that fills the historic streets with artisans, craft stalls, and cultural treasures. The cobblestone lanes and colonial architecture set the scene for browsing unique wares, from vivid alebrijes and handpainted ceramics to quirky Day of the Dead memorabilia. Founded in 1960, the bazaar has grown into a beloved tradition, with its epicenter located in a central courtyard where you can also grab a bite or sip a local craft brew, like a Monstruo de Agua beer—a must-try for its unusual ingredients and axolotl-themed branding.

Though the market can get busy, a friendly “con permiso” helps you navigate the crowded stalls. Don’t miss browsing nearby shops like Cerámica San Germán, where the traditional meets the artistic, or grabbing a molcajete for your guacamole needs. The cupolas of Nuestra Señora del Carmen loom overhead, hinting at San Ángel’s rich history, complete with mummies and macabre relics in the crypt below. Whether you’re drawn to crafts, ceramics, or quirky curiosities, Bazar Sábado promises a vibrant and eclectic day out in CDMX’s most enchanting neighborhood.

A man sits by the fountain at Nuestra Señora del Carmen in the San Angel neighborhood of CDMX

Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel is a captivating glimpse into Colonial Baroque architecture, with its faded domes tiled in vibrant patterns and gilded altarpiece that balances opulence with austerity. The church was founded for the Discalced Carmelites, a curious order known for their vow of shoelessness, established in the 16th century by Saint Teresa of Avila. Its history stretches back to the early 1600s, and the Carmen Complex encompasses more than just the church itself—it’s a former monastery and convent, now a museum where you can even find mummies lurking in the catacombs.

The church’s story doesn’t shy away from drama. After the War of Reform, when Mexico’s Liberal forces stripped the Catholic Church of its vast properties, parts of the complex were repurposed into everything from prisons to barracks. Today, the ornate interior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen stands in contrast to its unassuming façade, offering plenty to explore, from offshoot chapels to quiet corners for reflection. Whether you’re there for the architecture or just trying to catch a glimpse of those creepy mummies, this church is a must-see when wandering through the historic, tree-lined streets of San Ángel.

Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio House

While most visitors flock to Casa Azul—and rightly so—the duo’s other home in San Ángel offers a quieter, more architectural glimpse into their tangled lives. Designed by Juan O’Gorman in bold modernist style, the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo features two separate houses: one bright and spacious for Diego, the other small and cramped for Frida. Connected only by an outdoor stairwell and a narrow bridge, it’s a layout that feels like a metaphor—and a bit of a slap. Frida, who lived with chronic pain and mobility issues, had to climb steep steps just to see her husband.

Inside, Diego’s studio is full of light, murals-in-progress, and towering papier-mâché figures. Frida’s space is noticeably more austere—tight, plain, and edged with a kind of imposed solitude. If Casa Azul is where she found comfort, this house whispers of compromise.

Architectural Marvels in CDMX

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a must-see, offering an otherworldly experience in the Buenavista neighborhood of Mexico City. Designed by Alberto Kalach, the library’s floating metal and glass bookshelves create an intricate, maze-like space that seems to defy gravity. From the moment you step inside, it’s like entering a cathedral of knowledge, with sunlight streaming through louvered panels, casting an ethereal glow on the translucent walkways. The sensation is thrilling—and a little terrifying—as you navigate the thin, steel-framed floors that hover above the atrium.

Adding to the library’s allure is Gabriel Orozco’s “Mobile Matrix,” a mesmerizing installation featuring the skeleton of a gray whale, its bones intricately etched with thousands of mechanical pencil circles. Suspended mid-air, the piece echoes the library’s daring design, blurring the line between museum and reading space. After soaking in the modern architecture and art, venture into the surrounding botanic park for a breath of fresh air, or take a short walk to explore the nearby Kiosco Morisco, a colorful pavilion that serves as the perfect counterpoint to the library’s futuristic vibe.

The Kiosko Morisco in Mexico City, Mexico

Kiosko Morisco

Kiosko Morisco, tucked away in the charming neighborhood of Santa María la Ribera, is a hidden gem with a fascinating past. This 19th-century Moorish-style pavilion, designed by José Ramón Ibarrola, was originally built for the 1884 World’s Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition in New Orleans. After its star turn on the world stage, the pavilion was relocated to Mexico City, where it has since become a beloved part of the local landscape. Featuring ornate arches, slender columns, and a striking bronze eagle devouring a snake atop the dome, this architectural wonder reflects Mexico’s rich cultural history with a touch of Spanish flair.

Now sitting proudly at the center of the Alameda de Santa María park, the Kiosko Morisco draws visitors with its vibrant colors, elegant design, and relaxed atmosphere. Whether you’re watching locals dance salsa beneath its arches or simply soaking in the beauty of its intricate patterns, this pavilion offers a glimpse into Mexico City’s storied past. Stop by for a leisurely afternoon and take in the beauty of this remarkable relic while exploring the laid-back barrio that surrounds it.

A man paddles one of the flat-bottomed boats that cruise the canals of Xochimilco outside of CDMX

Xochimilco

Xochimilco’s canals are a surreal slice of Aztec history in modern-day CDMX, where colorful trajineras glide past floating gardens called chinampas. Renting one of these vibrant boats is like having your own portable party—complete with a long table for snacks and drinks. We kicked off our trip at Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, perfect for accessing the infamous Isla de las Muñecas, where eerie dolls dangle from trees to appease a young girl’s restless spirit.

Cruising these ancient waterways, you’ll encounter everything from floating food vendors selling quesadillas to impromptu mariachi performances. The early hours are ideal for beating the crowds, but brace yourself for the chaotic boat traffic as the day goes on. It’s a magical and slightly macabre experience that brings the rich history and quirky charm of Xochimilco to life. 

Dolls and stuffed animals are nailed to a tree on the Island of the Dead Dolls on an island in Xochimilco, CDMX

The Island of the Dead Dolls

Just south of Mexico City in the Xochimilco canals lies la Isla de las Muñecas aka the Island of the Dead Dolls, an unsettling attraction draped in local legend. It’s said that a little girl drowned there under mysterious circumstances, and the island’s caretaker, Don Julián Santana Barrera, began hanging dolls he found floating in the canal to appease her restless spirit. Over the years, he amassed a bizarre collection of dolls, many decayed and missing limbs, creating a macabre shrine to the lost soul. In 2001, Don Julián himself drowned in the very spot where he had found the girl’s body.

When we visited, we couldn’t resist adding our own contribution to the legend. We brought a doll from Chicago and placed it on a toy car under a bower on the island. It’s now known as “la negrita en el carro,” one of only two foreign dolls on the island. Be sure to keep an eye out for her when you visit!

La Isla de las Muñecas is one of the eeriest destinations in CDMX and a must-see for fans of the supernatural and strange. Tours from Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas offer a closer island option, while the original site takes around four hours round-trip. Don’t forget to bring a doll of your own as an offering!

Nearby 

A peacock perches on a metal fence at the Museo Dolores Olmedo in CDMX

Museo Dolores Olmedo

NOTE: Sadly, a familial dispute has led to the (hopefully temporary) closure of the Museo Dolores Olmedo. When last we heard, it was set to reopen in 2026. Say a little prayer to Santa Frida — this is an amazing excursion that should be open to the public. 

The Museo Dolores Olmedo is an enchanting oasis that merges art, history, and whimsy on a sprawling 16th-century hacienda in Xochimilco. From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted by flocks of peacocks roaming the lush grounds, strutting their iridescent feathers like they own the place. The estate itself is worth the visit, with its colonial charm and gardens of dahlias, agaves, and bougainvilleas, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of old Mexico. But it’s not all just eye candy—the museum also houses the largest private collection of Diego Rivera’s work, plus several pieces by Frida Kahlo, including her distinctive small-format paintings and traditional Tehuana dress.

Inside, Rivera’s masterpieces span multiple rooms, showcasing his evolution from post-Impressionism to Cubism, while Olmedo’s pre-Columbian collection adds a layer of ancient mystique, with Colima dog effigies that once guided spirits through the Aztec underworld. The hacienda’s playful side shines through in the Day of the Dead ofrendas, where traditional and modern elements blend seamlessly, reflecting Olmedo’s inventive spirit. Don’t forget to swing by the Xoloitzcuintli enclosure, home to the adorably odd Mexican hairless dogs that roam the grounds like living relics. Whether you’re an art lover, history buff, or just here for the peacocks, the Museo Dolores Olmedo will surprise and charm you at every turn.

Purple and pink walls by the stables of Cuadra San Cristóbal architect Luis Barragán outside CDMX

Barragán Architecture Tour

Luis Barragán (1902–1988) didn’t just design buildings—he created spaces that stirred the soul. A poetic modernist and the only Mexican architect to win the Pritzker Prize, Barragán took the clean lines of European architecture and infused them with color, silence, shadow, and stillness. His homes, fountains, and public works reflect a love of introspection and nature—a legacy that’s best experienced in person.

To really understand Barragán, we recommend booking a tour with the Traveling Beetle, which took us from city outskirts to surreal spaces, all in a tomato-red VW bus. 

The blue, white, yellow and red thin sculptural Torres de Satélite by the architect Luis Barragán outside of CDMX

Torres de Satélite

You’ll spot them first from the freeway—five towering columns in blue, red, yellow, and white. These are the Torres de Satélite, co-designed with sculptor Mathias Goeritz, and they mark the edge of a planned community that never quite came to be. But the towers endure, bold and mysterious, like sentinels from another dimension. They aren’t just monuments—they’re Barragán’s modernist exclamation point.

Modernist pink walls and cascading water at the Fuente de los Amantes by architect Luis Barragán outside Mexico City

Fuente de los Amantes

Hidden in a quiet corner of the San Cristóbal subdivision, the Fuente de los Amantes (Lovers’ Fountain) speaks in whispers. The aqueduct releases water once a day into the rectangular basin below, where two simple stone figures sit—one gazing, the other waiting. It’s classic Barragán: deceptively simple, achingly emotional. A place to contemplate connection, longing, and the kind of love that waits in silence.

A pool by brightly colored minimal modern walls at Cuadra San Cristóbal byarchitect Luis Barragán outside of CDMX

Cuadra San Cristóbal

This is the showstopper. From the outside, Cuadra San Cristóbal feels like a fortress—flat pink walls, geometric cutouts, no hint of what’s inside. But step into the courtyard and it unfolds like a fever dream: a long pink wall set against cobalt pools, fountains built for horses, and trees erupting through carefully placed openings. It’s the kind of space that doesn’t just look beautiful—it makes you feel something. Even the horses seem to know they’re walking through art.

Gnarled eucalyptus tree and stepped structure by Barragán at Paseo de los Gigantes and Plaza del Bebedero outside CDMX

Paseo de los Gigantes and Plaza del Bebedero

The name Paseo de los Gigantes isn’t a metaphor, it’s literal. Those majestic, gnarled eucalyptus trees — unyielding and grand — are the giants the path is named for. Once part of a glamorous social scene where Barragán hosted horsing events, today the park feels forgotten — overgrown, faded — but no less haunting. From their bark to their scale, the trees still command attention. As you continue, you reach the Plaza del Bebedero, anchored by a long, empty horse trough fountain and framed by stark white and indigo walls where light and shadow play like whispered memories of its past.

Best Restaurants in CDMX

Two shrimp in a small bowl amid lunch at  Masala y Maíz in CDMX

Masala y Maíz

Masala y Maíz serves one of the most memorable meals we've had anywhere in the world. The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant blends Mexican, South Asian and East African culinary traditions into dishes that somehow feel both inventive and deeply rooted in history. Every course surprised us, from brisket-filled samosas and vibrant chaat to chile-rubbed shrimp with vanilla ghee and clams simmered in turmeric, coconut milk and tomato masala.

Just as impressive as the food is the philosophy behind it. The owners have built a restaurant committed to fair labor practices, ethical sourcing and fostering a healthier restaurant culture—values that shine through in every aspect of the experience. Pair your meal with one of their excellent natural wines, and it's easy to see why Masala y Maíz remains one of our favorite restaurants in Mexico City.

Quirky Attractions in CDMX

A doll painted half black, half red as the Santeria deity Lucero at the Sonora witch market in CDMX

Witch’s Market at Mercado Sonora

If creepy, offbeat shopping is your thing, the witch market at Mercado Sonora in Mexico City is an absolute must-see. Tucked away in the market’s back left corner, this bizarre bazaar offers everything from potions to voodoo dolls, making it the ultimate mix of brujería and Catholic kitsch. Santa Muerte figures sit next to baby Jesus statues, and spells for love or money come in bottles of neon liquid you probably shouldn’t drink.

The aisles are tight, chaotic, and filled with the scent of sage. While navigating the labyrinthine stalls, you’ll find unsettling trinkets like Lucero Mundo dolls with sewn-shut eyes or macabre fur balls that defy description. It’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re into all things witchy, Mercado Sonora is a slice of dark magic in CDMX. 

Shopping in CDMX

Nuns walk through the handicraft market of La Ciudadela in CDMX

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a paradise for folk art and handicrafts lovers, offering a treasure trove of arte popular from all over Mexico. This sprawling market is packed with stalls selling everything from Oaxaca’s vibrant alebrijes and intricate Otomi textiles to pre-Columbian-style clay sculptures that rival museum pieces. It’s impossible to see it all in one go, so take your time and maybe even ask for a discount if you’re buying multiple items.

When you need a break from browsing, head to Fonda Carmelita, the market’s cantina, for traditional Mexican food and a refreshing margarita. It’s the perfect spot to recharge before diving back into the market’s colorful chaos. Don’t miss this iconic shopping destination whenever you’re in Mexico City — we never do.

A Perfect Morning in La Condesa, Mexico City

One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés. 

Colorful buildings along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course. 

Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).

Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.
Purple house with sign out front for Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.

1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.

Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track. 

Median park along Avenida Amsterdam in Mexico City

Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.

Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment. 

Edificio San Martin in La Condesa, Mexico City

There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.

As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.

2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.

Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks. 

We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail. 

Lemon pancakes at Freims restaurant

Lemon ricotta pancakes

Eggs Benedict at Freims restaurant

Eggs Benedict

I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom. 


Facade of Ojo de Agua in La Condesa, CDMX

ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa


Dog park in Parque Mexico, Mexico CIty

A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.

3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is. 

Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now.  Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders. 

Rollerbladers and others enjoying the Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh in Parque Mexico, Mexico City

This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.

Bougainvillea covering a pergola in Parque Mexico, CDMX

Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.

At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.

Fuente de los Cántaros in Parque Mexico in Mexico City

Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.

Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.

Clock tower fountain in Parque Mexico, CDMX

This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.

Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke

Ojo de Agua: A Delightful Breakfast in La Condesa

Using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, this CDMX fast casual restaurant offers delicious egg, coffee and smoothie options. 

A fantastic breakfast (or coffee or smoothie) option in the La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City

Some cities really do have it all: food, culture, adventure and more. On our fourth morning in CDMX, we ventured out for breakfast and decided to try Ojo de Agua. Situated off the picturesque Plaza Citaltépetl roundabout near the tree-lined Avenida Amsterdam, Ojo de Agua is a fast casual restaurant that wants you to eat on the healthier side — without being bland or boring. With its own bountiful fresh fruit and vegetable stand on display inside, a literal feast for the eyes, the concept reinforces the proverbial saying “you are what you eat.”

The fruit stand in Ojo de Aqua

The founder named the café after Ojo de Agua, the small town built around a freshwater spring pool located in the state of Michoacán, where the family is from. Their ethos “living a healthy life, in the company of people we love, in harmony with nature and strengthening habits which provide the body with tools to be fulfilled” rings true. The first location opened in the upscale Polanco neighborhood 14 years ago and the brand has since expanded to 23 locations in CDMX. 

The clean and simple logo (a white background with turquoise type and Fanta-blue droplets of water) offer a nod to the town’s namesake spring and can be seen under the awning.

A tasty breakfast at Ojo de Agua’s sidewalk café in La Condesa

A Healthy Way to Start the Day

The interior is casual and chic with big windows, concrete floors, patterned Mudéjar-style tile and white-painted brick walls, which makes it bright and welcoming. Plus, if you arrive early like we did, there’s outdoor seating where you can soak up the morning sun and people-watch while enjoying some of the tastiest food in La Condesa. 

You’ll find plenty of breakfast options to choose from on the menu, including açaí bowls, chilaquiles and cinnamon roll French toast. I ordered the santos ahogados, two poached eggs served in a cast-iron skillet over hoja santa, a large aromatic heart-shaped leaf plucked from the plant of the same name, complete with a generous helping of grilled panela cheese, in a broth of refried beans, salsa roja, salsa verde and sliced avocado. Wally ordered the huevos Polanco, made with two Parmesan cheese-crusted baked eggs served over an avocado purée and dressed with a za’atar-dusted cilantro jocoque, a fermented dairy product somewhere between yogurt and sour cream. My breakfast was savory, flavorful and very tasty. The salsa verde was relatively mild, while the salsa roja had a nice fiery heat to it. 

Wally couldn’t help but be jealous of that thick slice of grilled panela cheese on Duke’s santos ahogados.

I appreciated that real silverware was provided, neatly presented in kraft paper sleeves. The unmistakable and familiar strains of “Bohemian Rhapsody” by the British rock band Queen played over the speakers as we ate up every last bit of our breakfast. 

You’d be hard-pressed to find cuter details than this citrus juicer that acts as a napkin holder.

After breakfast, we made a beeline to the juice bar and ordered the South Face, a combination of fresh mango, passion fruit and pineapple juice. We also purchased a small jar of smoky salsa matcha. I’m considering tossing it with some roasted root vegetables or putting it on some chilaquiles. Needless to say, we left very happy and full. –Duke

 

Ojo de Aqua

Condesa Hipódromo 23C
06100 Ciudad de México
Mexico

Octavia Casa: La Condesa’s Chic New Boutique Hotel

A minimalist and modern retreat in one of CDMX’s most vibrant neighborhoods, Octavia Casa provides a tranquil sanctuary. 

Duke stands in front of the teak screening that covers the façade of the small boutique hotel.

When Wally and I decided to plan our second trip to Mexico City, aka CDMX, we agreed that we wanted to stay in La Condesa, the leafy green, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood where the city’s Art Deco movement was born. 

We love to stay in small, stylish hotels where we get to know the staff, and I was pleased to discover Octavia Casa. It’s location is ideal; it’s within walking distance of Parque México and Avenida Amsterdam, which was once a horse racetrack and is now home to numerous trendy shops and restaurants. 

The gravel courtyard off the entrance where we had breakfast

A Fashionable Place to Stay

The modern boutique hotel is an extension of Octavia, the contemporary women’s wear fashion brand launched in 2015 by Mexico City-based designer and creative director Roberta Maceda. 

When Maceda decided to venture into hospitality, she collaborated with architect Pablo Peréz Palacios and his firm PPAA (Pérez Palacios Arquitectos Asociados). Peréz Palacios thoughtfully drew inspiration from the eponymous label to create a unique hospitality experience. 

Upon arrival, we stepped out of the car and onto Avenida Amatlan. I was struck by the textures and shadows that were filtering sunlight through the teak lattice screen covering the façade of the hotel. At street level, lush tropical vegetation including monstera and jasmine add an organic element that pairs with the concrete and glass structure beneath. 

Beyond is the lobby, a space for rest and relaxation. A bronze rack holds a small collection of dresses from Octavia and a stone vase with dried magnolia leaves sits atop a circular concrete table by interior design studio Habitación 116 paired with a couple of Pierre Jeanneret Chandigarh office chairs. 

Octavia Casa’s lobby is really more of a foyer, making visitors really feel like they’re staying in a home.

The hotel’s chic minimalist aesthetic is inspired by Octavia, the women’s wear label run by the owner. A few of her dresses are on display in the lobby.

Around the corner the “lobby” continues into a communal open-air patio covered in pea gravel, which creates a zen ambiance. 

The staff described the open-air space as a continuation of the lobby.

You can see the stucco work on the wall — a technique that’s been around since the Ancient Maya.

The ingenious and well-designed interior staircase, which Wally referred to as Escheresque, ascends and descends from the ground floor to the rooftop in 90-degree turns. 

The sleek concrete stairwells looked to Wally like something out of an M.C. Escher drawing.

The scent of lilies filled the air.

A Modern Mix of Materials

A cohesive palette of muted neutrals are featured throughout Octavia Casa, anchored by refined natural and sustainable materials such as stone, wood, rattan and textiles. Interior walls are finished in chukum, a traditional and environmentally friendly Ancient Mayan stucco technique extracted by twice boiling the thorny tree’s bark. The resulting spaces are airy and bright, as well as rich, textured and welcoming. 

Reeded glass catwalks add yet another interesting visual element.

Each of the seven rooms are named after a natural element or material, such as Earth, Ochre, Bronze and Jute. We stayed in the Lino suite, the only room on the third floor, with balconies overlooking the interior courtyard and Avenida Amatlan. 

Wally does one of his jumping shots — and in a hotel as amazing as this, who can blame him?

A Sweet Suite at Octavia Casa

Our suite felt like an elegantly appointed residence and we immediately felt at home. 

The king-size bed, with linens by Octavia Casa’s homeware line, was luxurious and welcoming — especially after days spent exploring sites and the neighborhood, which had so many things to see that I feel like we barely scratched the surface. The Lino suite is also only one flight from the rooftop terrace, an oasis that provides views of the surrounding neighborhood. 

The Lino suite at Octavia Casa

A quiet nook near the balcony that overlooks the interior courtyard

The property doesn’t include a restaurant. However, they do offer a breakfast buffet in the ground-floor courtyard. We opted to do this for a few days and it included Nespresso coffee, baguettes, brie, seasonal fresh fruit, juices, jams by Rosetta, yogurt, croissants and conchas, a traditional Mexican sweetened bread roll with a crunchy topping. I was mildly obsessed with the handmade bowl-shaped mugs, and when I asked where they were from, one of the staff members, Fedra, kindly provided the name of the shop: Templo. (Incidentally, Fedra makes a mean latte.)

Fresh fruit, yogurt and bread are on offer at the breakfast buffet.

How we started every day

The coffee and espresso mugs Duke was obsessed with

In the evening the lobby transforms, illuminated by candlelight, with libations on offer, from local mezcals and tequilas to a selection of wines available for purchase. 

The personnel, including Raúl, Fedra and Luis, were genuine and friendly and took the time to make Wally and I feel welcome with every encounter. Thoughtful gestures such as a complimentary bottle of red wine for my birthday and offering the guest lounge on the ground floor when we anxiously took our on-site COVID tests, arranged by Octavia Casa, before flying home. Another employee, Silvia, reminded us of our favorite Spanish teacher, Mariú, and was a delight the entire time. She gave me a big hug on my birthday as again when we left. 

The staff at Octavia Casa gave birthday boy Duke the special treatment.

We found Octavia Casa to be a unique and unpretentious accommodation. (And so did Natalia Lafourcade, one of Mexico’s most famous singers, who stayed there at the same time as us and had the staff all aflutter.) It’s the perfect place to wake up and return to after each day’s adventures. If you’re planning a trip to this magical city, look no further and book your stay here. –Duke

Pale concrete and teak pair with green plants and the blue sky, helping make Octavia Casa a tranquil retreat from the bustle of CDMX.

Octavia Casa
Avenida Amatlan 126
Hipódromo Condesa
Cuauhtémoc
06170 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Mexico