Mexico City Travel Guide: Best Things to Do in CDMX, Neighborhoods & Itinerary

Everything you need to plan a Mexico City vacation, from where to stay and what to eat to museums, architecture, markets and hidden gems across CDMX.

Frida and Diego, err, Wally and Duke offer up this guide to CDMX.

I hesitate to write this guide. Sure, I could rave about Mexico City for days — but that’s exactly the problem. I don’t want it to get too popular. There’s something special about CDMX that feels like a secret, and every time someone returns, I ask, “Did you love it?” The answer is always a resounding yes. It’s a city with undeniable magic. But maybe it’s time we stop singing its praises quite so loudly before it gets overrun and loses its charm. (And it’s already well on its way, as the recent protests against expats and digital nomads, who have driven up rents and fast-tracked gentrification, can attest.)

For one thing, Mexico City is an embarrassment of riches, with enough history, art and culture to keep even the most seasoned traveler captivated for weeks on end. Like Paris, you can spend a week here and barely scratch the surface. With every neighborhood offering something unique — from the bohemian charm of Coyoacán to the vibrant streets of La Condesa — there’s an endless amount to explore.

To help you navigate this sprawling city, we’ve organized our guide by neighborhood, highlighting the best markets, museums, landmarks, restaurants and quirky spots that make CDMX unforgettable. Whether you’re hunting for artisan crafts, enjoying a peaceful moment at a museum, or getting a little creeped out at the Island of the Dead Dolls on the canals of Xochimilco, this guide will take you through the gems that make Mexico City one of the most thrilling destinations in the world. 

Just accept the fact that you’ll just have to pick the things that appeal to you the most, knowing that you can’t hit them all — and that you have a reason for coming back. 

Click on any of the links for deeper dives into these spots. 

Centro Histórico

Most Instagrammable Places in Centro

Our guide to the most Instagrammable spots in Mexico City’s Centro takes you through one of CDMX’s most photogenic neighborhoods, where colonial architecture, Art Nouveau landmarks and modern public art collide. Our self-guided photo tour begins at the Sinagoga Histórica, whose unassuming façade gives way to a stunning folk art-inspired sanctuary, before continuing to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, birthplace of the Mexican muralism movement. Along the way, stop for lunch on the rooftop at La Casa de las Sirenas, overlooking the Catedral Metropolitana and (unimpressive) Templo Mayor, then admire the cathedral’s lavish Baroque interior before wandering past the tiled façade of the Casa de los Azulejos.

Next, duck into the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México to marvel at its soaring stained-glass ceiling, then don’t miss the spectacular Palacio Postal, where twin gilded staircases and intricate brasswork make it one of the city’s most photogenic interiors. From there, cross to Sears for the iconic view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes dome before wrapping up with the Hemiciclo a Benito Juárez in Alameda Central and the striking red pyramids of Fuente de Vicente Rojo just across the street.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

From the outside, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is a stunning Art Nouveau dome-topped palace glowing across Centro Histórico; inside, it’s home to Mexico’s premier opera house, the National Museum of Architecture, and a renowned collection of murals that provoke as much as they awe. We first glimpsed its golden crown from across the street, taking in the best view from Sears department store. But on another visit, we dove into the heart of the building, to find that in the Palacio’s mural museum, Mexico’s famous large-scale artists — Rivera, Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros — don’t hold back.

Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe takes center stage, revisiting his controversial commission for the Rockefeller Center — destroyed for depicting Lenin. Here, Karl Marx and Charles Darwin rub shoulders. Meanwhile, Orozco’s Catharsis unleashes a dystopia where naked bodies and mechanical beasts clash, featuring the infamous La Chata, a grinning prostitute, who adds to the mural’s disturbing reputation. Each mural tells a story, whether it’s Siqueiros’ dream of Cuauhtémoc defeating the conquistadors or Rivera’s sly digs at White tourists and their clichés in Carnival of Mexican Life. The collection is edgy and bold, and it’s impossible to walk away without feeling like the walls just had the last word.

Monumento a la Revolución

The Monument to the Revolution is a triumphal arch with some serious swagger. Originally destined to be the Palacio Legislativo Federal, the grand project was abandoned when the Mexican Revolution took center stage. For two decades, the half-built structure just sat there, rusting away. But then architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia had a better idea: turn that mess into a towering 220-foot icon, now the tallest triumphal arch in the world. Take that, Arc de Triomphe!

Today, the monument wears many hats: mausoleum, observation deck and revolutionary museum, with a little copper-clad cupola action thrown in for good measure. The glass elevator ride up the center is worth it for the views alone, but the exposed steel innards are also worth checking out. 

Meanwhile, down below, the National Museum of the Revolution does its best to impress with its “avant-garde” exhibits (we’ll take their word for it). 

Outside, the Plaza de la República buzzes with vendors selling everything from T-shirts to street snacks, and the sunken garden gives you a breather from the city’s chaos.

Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Castle

A castle in the middle of Mexico City? Yes, really — perched atop Chapultepec Hill, this once-imperial palace is now a museum, a monument and a mood. From its sweeping views to its storybook staircases, Chapultepec Castle delivers drama at every turn.

On our visit, we followed the winding hilltop path, dodging packs of schoolchildren to reach the gates. Once inside, things get surreal. French chandeliers, trompe-l’œil ceilings, and checkerboard floors speak to its time as Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota’s royal residence, when the castle played dress-up as a European palace. And don’t miss the stained glass gallery of Muses and the rooftop garden.

The castle also houses the National Museum of History — and the exhibits remind you that while emperors played house, revolutionaries were gearing up to take it all down. Cases hold Aztec codices, colonial relics and revolutionary banners. It’s a crash course in Mexico’s past, where empires rose, ideals clashed, and the culture kept reinventing itself.

Museo Nacional de Antropología

The museum doesn’t wait until the galleries to wow you — its massive umbrella fountain out front rains spectacle on everyone walking in. Inside, soaring halls hold colossal Olmec heads, Aztec sun stones and Maya stelae — alongside delicate figurines that speak to everyday life. Every gallery plunges you deeper into the civilizations that shaped Mexico long before the Spanish arrived. My favorite part: Various galleries lead outside, where you feel like you’ve stumbled into the jungle and discovered an ancient temple and artifacts.

Another highlight? The way animals come to life in pottery and sculpture, each one symbolizing something sacred, fierce or divine. Here’s what we uncovered about animal symbolism in pre-Columbian pottery.

And if you’re drawn to the darker corners of history, don’t miss the exhibits on burial rituals and offerings. From jade beads in the mouths of the dead to xolo dogs sacrificed as guides to the afterlife, the museum doesn’t shy away from the raw power of the death cults of Ancient Mexico.

La Condesa

Morning in La Condesa

Start your morning in La Condesa, where Avenida Amsterdam’s tree-lined oval leads you past Art Deco gems and green spaces that feel worlds away from the city’s hustle. The avenue’s curving path traces the outline of an old racetrack. As you stroll, keep an eye out for the architectural detail: Streamline Moderne façades and stylish mansions make every turn a feast for the eyes.

For breakfast, we recommend Frëims, tucked inside a renovated 1920s home. The sun-drenched patio is perfect for savoring a coffee or one of their fresh juice blends, while admiring the mural. Fuel up on something like the lemon ricotta pancakes or huevos benedictinos, then take a leisurely walk over to Parque México. This green space, once home to an elite jockey club, now offers a mix of dog walkers, skaters and public art, like the Fountain of the Pitchers, which immortalizes Luz Jiménez as the iconic indigenous beauty of the 1920s. Whether you’re there for a stroll or just people-watching, La Condesa’s vibe is pure magic.

Where to stay in La Condesa

Octavia Casa

Octavia Casa is where minimalist design meets boutique charm, offering a chic retreat from the mellow bustle of La Condesa. The hotel’s teak lattice façade and the tropical plants spilling out over the concrete and glass exterior provide a touch of nature in the urban landscape. It’s a natural extension of the Octavia fashion brand, with spaces inspired by the label’s understated style, brought to life through thoughtful details like chukum stucco walls and muted earth tones that give each room an airy, welcoming vibe.

Mornings begin with a breakfast buffet of fresh fruit, pastries and handmade mugs. The staff go above and beyond, from a surprise birthday bottle of wine to Silvia’s heartfelt hugs. Evenings bring a different ambiance, with candlelight and libations on offer, perfect for winding down after a day of exploring CDMX. It’s hard not to feel special here, especially when you happen to be sharing the space with stars like Natalia Lafourcade.

Where to eat in La Condesa

Ojo de Agua

Ojo de Agua in La Condesa is where health-conscious meets delicious. Situated near the lush Avenida Amsterdam and Plaza Citaltépetl, this fast casual café has a bright, fresh vibe and a fruit stand right inside. Named after a Michoacán town, the restaurant channels a commitment to living well, celebrating fresh ingredients in dishes that don’t skimp on flavor. The interior is casual chic, with Mudéjar-style tiles, big windows and plenty of natural light, while the outdoor seating is perfect for soaking up the neighborhood’s morning buzz.

The menu has something for everyone, from açaí bowls to cinnamon roll French toast, but we couldn’t resist the savory options. The santos ahogados, with its poached eggs, grilled panela and two salsas over a heart-shaped hoja santa leaf, brought a rich balance of flavors, while the huevos Polanco paired eggs with avocado purée and a za’atar-spiced jocoque. With Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” playing in the background and fresh juice from the bar to finish things off, Ojo de Agua left us feeling fully satisfied and ready to take on CDMX.

Roma

Where to stay in Roma

Ignacia Guest House

Ignacia Guest House in Colonia Roma is a sophisticated blend of historic charm and modern elegance, tucked away in one of Mexico City’s most picturesque neighborhoods. The meticulously restored 1913 mansion captures the spirit of the area with its Neoclassical and Art Nouveau touches, while the modern wing adds a sleek contrast of glass and steel. Named after the beloved housekeeper who spent more than 70 years living and working in the home, Ignacia’s story is woven into every detail, from the Oaxacan cactus garden she planted to the woodcut portraits of her displayed in the lobby. We stayed in the Azul suite, which features reclaimed bowling alley maple floors and Carrara marble bathroom fixtures, providing the perfect mix of rustic and luxe.

The daily breakfast menu, crafted from Ignacia’s original recipes, offers a delicious start to the day, complete with fresh pastries and locally sourced ingredients. We especially loved the cocktail hour, where we sampled mezcal-infused drinks with sal de gusano (worm salt) and even tried crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) — because when in Rome… or, Roma. The courtyard patio is a central hub for socializing, shaded by ivy-covered walls and overlooked by the glass corridor that connects the new and old buildings. As much as the architecture and gardens enchanted us, it was the warm and welcoming staff who truly made us feel at home. 

Coyoacán

Wandering Coyoacán

An afternoon in Coyoacán offers a perfect mix of history, culture and a bit of boho chic. Start in Plaza Hidalgo, where the Fuente de los Coyotes splashes in the heart of a classic colonial square, and balloon vendors and palm-leaf crickets are part of the scene. Nearby, Los Danzantes serves up dishes like cricket croquetas and mezcal cocktails, perfect for people-watching while soaking up the bohemian vibe.

Wander into the Mercado Artesanal Mexicano for quirky souvenirs like Oaxacan alebrijes or oddball folk art, then recharge at Panadería Pública with a coffee and a guava pastry. Just a short stroll away, Plaza de la Conchita offers a quiet escape, where the 16th century chapel holds stories of Hernán Cortés’ time in the neighborhood. Finish at Frida Kahlo Park, where topiary animals greet you and teenagers practice salsa moves under bougainvilleas, and a mural by Dan Silva adds a burst of color. Coyoacán’s charm is irresistible, making it easy to see why artists and dreamers have called it home.

La Casa Azul: The Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul, or the Frida Kahlo Museum, is as bold and layered as the artist herself, with its vibrant cobalt walls and eclectic blend of art, artifacts, and personal relics. The iconic blue-painted house in Coyoacán offers a glimpse into the world of Frida and Diego Rivera, where the bohemian spirit comes alive in the courtyard’s botanical garden and the interiors filled with papel picado, Tehuana dresses, and intricate folk art. We recommend booking tickets well in advance and arriving early to avoid the hours-long wait; it’s worth it to step inside this iconic space where Kahlo’s personality radiates from every corner.

From her wheelchair and easel to her night bed with a mirror overhead—where she painted while bedridden—La Casa Azul tells the story of an artist who turned pain into beauty. The house is filled with fascinating details, like the miniature clay mugs spelling out “Frida” and “Diego” above the stove, or the ashes resting in a pre-Columbian urn beside her bed. Beyond the personal spaces, you’ll find rooms with her lesser-known artworks, a display of her distinctive wardrobe, and even a pyramid of pre-Columbian sculptures Rivera added to the garden. The whole experience leaves a lasting impression, as if you’ve walked through the pages of Frida’s life story, with every object and plant bearing witness to her creative and resilient spirit.

Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Parroquia San Juan Bautista, or La Iglesia de Coyoacán, is a captivating piece of Spanish colonial history nestled in Mexico City’s bohemian Coyoacán neighborhood. Built between 1527 and 1552 on the site of an Aztec noble school, the church’s relatively plain Herrerian-style exterior belies the ornate Baroque splendor within. Step inside, and you’re greeted by gilded altars, frescoed ceilings depicting Christ’s life, and an array of small chapels, including the opulent Chapel of the Rosary.

The church is full of fascinating details, from the creepy yet compelling Cristo de los Milagros, adorned with healing charms, to niche statues and elaborate ornamentation that evoke Mexico’s blend of indigenous and Catholic traditions. Don’t miss wandering the peaceful cloisters out back, where Nahuatl-speaking converts were once baptized. La Iglesia de Coyoacán is not just a church; it’s a glimpse into the neighborhood’s layered history and enduring cultural richness. Read more here.

Museo Anahuacalli

The Anahuacalli Museum is unlike any other—a temple-like structure housing Diego Rivera’s vast collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts. Built on the rugged volcanic rock of El Pedregal, this black basalt museum rises like a Mesoamerican pyramid, surrounded by myth and history. Rivera envisioned it as a place to contemplate Mexico’s ancient past, with over 50,000 artifacts collected over his lifetime, though only a fraction is displayed. The museum’s dim and cool interior, lit by alabaster windows, creates an otherworldly atmosphere, while colorful ofrendas and papier-mâché alebrijes burst against the stone.

Inside, narrow staircases lead you up through galleries filled with Zapotec, Maya, Aztec, and Olmec relics, culminating in Rivera’s art studio on the sunlit second floor, where you can see studies for his controversial murals. The rooftop terrace offers a stark contrast to the dark confines below, with panoramic views of CDMX. Rivera’s passion for the past comes to life here, where mythological mosaics, jaguar statues, and Mesoamerican symbolism honor Mexico’s ancient heritage. It’s an unforgettable experience that feels as much like stepping into a temple as it does a museum.

San Ángel

Bazar Sábado

The Bazar Sábado in San Ángel is a Saturday-only spectacle that fills the historic streets with artisans, craft stalls, and cultural treasures. The cobblestone lanes and colonial architecture set the scene for browsing unique wares, from vivid alebrijes and handpainted ceramics to quirky Day of the Dead memorabilia. Founded in 1960, the bazaar has grown into a beloved tradition, with its epicenter located in a central courtyard where you can also grab a bite or sip a local craft brew, like a Monstruo de Agua beer—a must-try for its unusual ingredients and axolotl-themed branding.

Though the market can get busy, a friendly “con permiso” helps you navigate the crowded stalls. Don’t miss browsing nearby shops like Cerámica San Germán, where the traditional meets the artistic, or grabbing a molcajete for your guacamole needs. The cupolas of Nuestra Señora del Carmen loom overhead, hinting at San Ángel’s rich history, complete with mummies and macabre relics in the crypt below. Whether you’re drawn to crafts, ceramics, or quirky curiosities, Bazar Sábado promises a vibrant and eclectic day out in CDMX’s most enchanting neighborhood.

Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel is a captivating glimpse into Colonial Baroque architecture, with its faded domes tiled in vibrant patterns and gilded altarpiece that balances opulence with austerity. The church was founded for the Discalced Carmelites, a curious order known for their vow of shoelessness, established in the 16th century by Saint Teresa of Avila. Its history stretches back to the early 1600s, and the Carmen Complex encompasses more than just the church itself—it’s a former monastery and convent, now a museum where you can even find mummies lurking in the catacombs.

The church’s story doesn’t shy away from drama. After the War of Reform, when Mexico’s Liberal forces stripped the Catholic Church of its vast properties, parts of the complex were repurposed into everything from prisons to barracks. Today, the ornate interior of Nuestra Señora del Carmen stands in contrast to its unassuming façade, offering plenty to explore, from offshoot chapels to quiet corners for reflection. Whether you’re there for the architecture or just trying to catch a glimpse of those creepy mummies, this church is a must-see when wandering through the historic, tree-lined streets of San Ángel.

Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio House

While most visitors flock to Casa Azul—and rightly so—the duo’s other home in San Ángel offers a quieter, more architectural glimpse into their tangled lives. Designed by Juan O’Gorman in bold modernist style, the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo features two separate houses: one bright and spacious for Diego, the other small and cramped for Frida. Connected only by an outdoor stairwell and a narrow bridge, it’s a layout that feels like a metaphor—and a bit of a slap. Frida, who lived with chronic pain and mobility issues, had to climb steep steps just to see her husband.

Inside, Diego’s studio is full of light, murals-in-progress, and towering papier-mâché figures. Frida’s space is noticeably more austere—tight, plain, and edged with a kind of imposed solitude. If Casa Azul is where she found comfort, this house whispers of compromise.

Architectural Marvels in CDMX

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a must-see, offering an otherworldly experience in the Buenavista neighborhood of Mexico City. Designed by Alberto Kalach, the library’s floating metal and glass bookshelves create an intricate, maze-like space that seems to defy gravity. From the moment you step inside, it’s like entering a cathedral of knowledge, with sunlight streaming through louvered panels, casting an ethereal glow on the translucent walkways. The sensation is thrilling—and a little terrifying—as you navigate the thin, steel-framed floors that hover above the atrium.

Adding to the library’s allure is Gabriel Orozco’s “Mobile Matrix,” a mesmerizing installation featuring the skeleton of a gray whale, its bones intricately etched with thousands of mechanical pencil circles. Suspended mid-air, the piece echoes the library’s daring design, blurring the line between museum and reading space. After soaking in the modern architecture and art, venture into the surrounding botanic park for a breath of fresh air, or take a short walk to explore the nearby Kiosco Morisco, a colorful pavilion that serves as the perfect counterpoint to the library’s futuristic vibe.

Kiosko Morisco

Kiosko Morisco, tucked away in the charming neighborhood of Santa María la Ribera, is a hidden gem with a fascinating past. This 19th-century Moorish-style pavilion, designed by José Ramón Ibarrola, was originally built for the 1884 World’s Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition in New Orleans. After its star turn on the world stage, the pavilion was relocated to Mexico City, where it has since become a beloved part of the local landscape. Featuring ornate arches, slender columns, and a striking bronze eagle devouring a snake atop the dome, this architectural wonder reflects Mexico’s rich cultural history with a touch of Spanish flair.

Now sitting proudly at the center of the Alameda de Santa María park, the Kiosko Morisco draws visitors with its vibrant colors, elegant design, and relaxed atmosphere. Whether you’re watching locals dance salsa beneath its arches or simply soaking in the beauty of its intricate patterns, this pavilion offers a glimpse into Mexico City’s storied past. Stop by for a leisurely afternoon and take in the beauty of this remarkable relic while exploring the laid-back barrio that surrounds it.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco’s canals are a surreal slice of Aztec history in modern-day CDMX, where colorful trajineras glide past floating gardens called chinampas. Renting one of these vibrant boats is like having your own portable party—complete with a long table for snacks and drinks. We kicked off our trip at Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, perfect for accessing the infamous Isla de las Muñecas, where eerie dolls dangle from trees to appease a young girl’s restless spirit.

Cruising these ancient waterways, you’ll encounter everything from floating food vendors selling quesadillas to impromptu mariachi performances. The early hours are ideal for beating the crowds, but brace yourself for the chaotic boat traffic as the day goes on. It’s a magical and slightly macabre experience that brings the rich history and quirky charm of Xochimilco to life. 

The Island of the Dead Dolls

Just south of Mexico City in the Xochimilco canals lies la Isla de las Muñecas aka the Island of the Dead Dolls, an unsettling attraction draped in local legend. It’s said that a little girl drowned there under mysterious circumstances, and the island’s caretaker, Don Julián Santana Barrera, began hanging dolls he found floating in the canal to appease her restless spirit. Over the years, he amassed a bizarre collection of dolls, many decayed and missing limbs, creating a macabre shrine to the lost soul. In 2001, Don Julián himself drowned in the very spot where he had found the girl’s body.

When we visited, we couldn’t resist adding our own contribution to the legend. We brought a doll from Chicago and placed it on a toy car under a bower on the island. It’s now known as “la negrita en el carro,” one of only two foreign dolls on the island. Be sure to keep an eye out for her when you visit!

La Isla de las Muñecas is one of the eeriest destinations in CDMX and a must-see for fans of the supernatural and strange. Tours from Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas offer a closer island option, while the original site takes around four hours round-trip. Don’t forget to bring a doll of your own as an offering!

Nearby 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

NOTE: Sadly, a familial dispute has led to the (hopefully temporary) closure of the Museo Dolores Olmedo. When last we heard, it was set to reopen in 2026. Say a little prayer to Santa Frida — this is an amazing excursion that should be open to the public. 

The Museo Dolores Olmedo is an enchanting oasis that merges art, history, and whimsy on a sprawling 16th-century hacienda in Xochimilco. From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted by flocks of peacocks roaming the lush grounds, strutting their iridescent feathers like they own the place. The estate itself is worth the visit, with its colonial charm and gardens of dahlias, agaves, and bougainvilleas, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of old Mexico. But it’s not all just eye candy—the museum also houses the largest private collection of Diego Rivera’s work, plus several pieces by Frida Kahlo, including her distinctive small-format paintings and traditional Tehuana dress.

Inside, Rivera’s masterpieces span multiple rooms, showcasing his evolution from post-Impressionism to Cubism, while Olmedo’s pre-Columbian collection adds a layer of ancient mystique, with Colima dog effigies that once guided spirits through the Aztec underworld. The hacienda’s playful side shines through in the Day of the Dead ofrendas, where traditional and modern elements blend seamlessly, reflecting Olmedo’s inventive spirit. Don’t forget to swing by the Xoloitzcuintli enclosure, home to the adorably odd Mexican hairless dogs that roam the grounds like living relics. Whether you’re an art lover, history buff, or just here for the peacocks, the Museo Dolores Olmedo will surprise and charm you at every turn.

Barragán Architecture Tour

Luis Barragán (1902–1988) didn’t just design buildings—he created spaces that stirred the soul. A poetic modernist and the only Mexican architect to win the Pritzker Prize, Barragán took the clean lines of European architecture and infused them with color, silence, shadow, and stillness. His homes, fountains, and public works reflect a love of introspection and nature—a legacy that’s best experienced in person.

To really understand Barragán, we recommend booking a tour with the Traveling Beetle, which took us from city outskirts to surreal spaces, all in a tomato-red VW bus. 

Torres de Satélite

You’ll spot them first from the freeway—five towering columns in blue, red, yellow, and white. These are the Torres de Satélite, co-designed with sculptor Mathias Goeritz, and they mark the edge of a planned community that never quite came to be. But the towers endure, bold and mysterious, like sentinels from another dimension. They aren’t just monuments—they’re Barragán’s modernist exclamation point.

Fuente de los Amantes

Hidden in a quiet corner of the San Cristóbal subdivision, the Fuente de los Amantes (Lovers’ Fountain) speaks in whispers. The aqueduct releases water once a day into the rectangular basin below, where two simple stone figures sit—one gazing, the other waiting. It’s classic Barragán: deceptively simple, achingly emotional. A place to contemplate connection, longing, and the kind of love that waits in silence.

Cuadra San Cristóbal

This is the showstopper. From the outside, Cuadra San Cristóbal feels like a fortress—flat pink walls, geometric cutouts, no hint of what’s inside. But step into the courtyard and it unfolds like a fever dream: a long pink wall set against cobalt pools, fountains built for horses, and trees erupting through carefully placed openings. It’s the kind of space that doesn’t just look beautiful—it makes you feel something. Even the horses seem to know they’re walking through art.

Paseo de los Gigantes and Plaza del Bebedero

The name Paseo de los Gigantes isn’t a metaphor, it’s literal. Those majestic, gnarled eucalyptus trees — unyielding and grand — are the giants the path is named for. Once part of a glamorous social scene where Barragán hosted horsing events, today the park feels forgotten — overgrown, faded — but no less haunting. From their bark to their scale, the trees still command attention. As you continue, you reach the Plaza del Bebedero, anchored by a long, empty horse trough fountain and framed by stark white and indigo walls where light and shadow play like whispered memories of its past.

Best Restaurants in CDMX

Masala y Maíz

Masala y Maíz serves one of the most memorable meals we've had anywhere in the world. The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant blends Mexican, South Asian and East African culinary traditions into dishes that somehow feel both inventive and deeply rooted in history. Every course surprised us, from brisket-filled samosas and vibrant chaat to chile-rubbed shrimp with vanilla ghee and clams simmered in turmeric, coconut milk and tomato masala.

Just as impressive as the food is the philosophy behind it. The owners have built a restaurant committed to fair labor practices, ethical sourcing and fostering a healthier restaurant culture—values that shine through in every aspect of the experience. Pair your meal with one of their excellent natural wines, and it's easy to see why Masala y Maíz remains one of our favorite restaurants in Mexico City.

Quirky Attractions in CDMX

Witch’s Market at Mercado Sonora

If creepy, offbeat shopping is your thing, the witch market at Mercado Sonora in Mexico City is an absolute must-see. Tucked away in the market’s back left corner, this bizarre bazaar offers everything from potions to voodoo dolls, making it the ultimate mix of brujería and Catholic kitsch. Santa Muerte figures sit next to baby Jesus statues, and spells for love or money come in bottles of neon liquid you probably shouldn’t drink.

The aisles are tight, chaotic, and filled with the scent of sage. While navigating the labyrinthine stalls, you’ll find unsettling trinkets like Lucero Mundo dolls with sewn-shut eyes or macabre fur balls that defy description. It’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re into all things witchy, Mercado Sonora is a slice of dark magic in CDMX. 

Shopping in CDMX

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a paradise for folk art and handicrafts lovers, offering a treasure trove of arte popular from all over Mexico. This sprawling market is packed with stalls selling everything from Oaxaca’s vibrant alebrijes and intricate Otomi textiles to pre-Columbian-style clay sculptures that rival museum pieces. It’s impossible to see it all in one go, so take your time and maybe even ask for a discount if you’re buying multiple items.

When you need a break from browsing, head to Fonda Carmelita, the market’s cantina, for traditional Mexican food and a refreshing margarita. It’s the perfect spot to recharge before diving back into the market’s colorful chaos. Don’t miss this iconic shopping destination whenever you’re in Mexico City — we never do.

Exploring Baixa and Chiado: How the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake Reshaped the City

From the wave-patterned stones of Rossio Square to the waterfront Praça do Comércio — with coffee at A Brasileira — we trace how the 1755 Lisbon earthquake reshaped the neighborhoods of Baixa and Chiado forever.

In Baixa and Chiado, Lisbon’s Pombaline buildings pair wrought-iron balconies with azulejo-covered façades — a style born from the city’s post-1755 reconstruction.

Wally and I spent our first full day in Lisbon wandering the historic cobblestone streets of Baixa and Chiado, two of the city’s central neighborhoods that feel orderly today but were dramatically reshaped after a disastrous earthquake struck the city on All Saints’ Day, November 1, 1755.

The powerful quake toppled buildings and ignited fires that would rage for nearly a week. Some 40 minutes later, a massive tsunami triggered by the tremors surged up the Rio Tejo (Tagus River), washing away ships and the thousands who had fled to the waterfront believing it was safe. By the time the devastation subsided, tens of thousands were dead or homeless, and much of the city lay in ruins.

“The earthquake, and the tsunami that followed, erased the palace in an instant, permanently reshaping the waterfront.”

The rebirth of the Cidade das Sete Colinas — the City of Seven Hills — was led by Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the powerful royal minister who was later given the title Marquês de Pombal. Appointed Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs when José I took the throne in 1750, he steadily consolidated power until, by the time the earthquake struck, he was the king’s de facto chief minister — and, in the aftermath, the undisputed force behind Lisbon’s reconstruction. He remains Portugal’s most consequential political figure of the 18th century. 

This statue, with a seagull perched upon her head, is Justice (or Wisdom, perhaps), positioned near the inscription marking Dom Pedro’s grant of the constitutional charter in 1826.

Under his direction, architects and engineers, including Manuel da Maia, Eugénio dos Santos and Carlos Mardel drew up plans to redesign Lisbon from the ground up. Buildings were constructed using the innovative gaiola (“cage”) system — a lattice of vertical, horizontal and diagonal wooden beams arranged in a Saint Andrew’s cross pattern and embedded within masonry walls, designed to absorb shocks. It ranks among the world’s earliest anti-seismic construction methods. From the rubble rose the Baixa Pombalina, with its wide avenues, grand squares and uniform façades shaped by Enlightenment‑era urban planning.  

Pedro IV watches over Lisbon, while hand-cut limestone and basalt create the calçada portuguesa pattern that mimics the sea.

Rossio Square: Lisbon’s Wave-Patterned Plaza 

Since we were staying at Locke de Santa Joana near the Marquês de Pombal roundabout, we stepped out of the hotel and followed Rua Camilo Castelo Branco down to Avenida da Liberdade, continuing south until we reached Praça dos Restauradores and the edge of Praça do Rossio.  

Known locally as Rossio, Praça de Dom Pedro IV sits at the northern edge of the Baixa district and ranks among Lisbon’s liveliest squares. It has been the city’s historic hub since the Middle Ages, witnessing royal proclamations, political revolutions and autos de fé (the public sentencing ceremonies of the Portuguese Inquisition that frequently culminated in heretics being burned at the stake by civil authorities). The Inquisition tribunal was once headquartered on the square’s north side in the Estaus Palace, later replaced by the Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, which was under restoration when we visited.

Lisbon’s Teatro Nacional de São Carlos has hosted opera since 1793 and was modeled after Italian theaters.

At the center of Rossio stands an 89-foot (27-meter) column topped by a bronze statue of Pedro IV, who also ruled as Brazil’s first emperor. Installed in 1870, it presides over a sea of black-and-white wave-patterned calçada portuguesa — traditional cobblestone paving made from small limestone and basalt cubes arranged in decorative patterns, and notoriously hard on the feet. At the base, four allegorical figures — Justice, Wisdom, Strength and Moderation — keep watch, presumably to remind the king (and everyone else) how virtuous he was.

The Rossio fountains feature mermaids and other sea creatures, echoing Portugal’s deep connection to the ocean and its Age of Exploration.

Twin fountains imported from France anchor either end of the square. Cast in bronze and installed in 1889, they were designed by French sculptors Mathurin Moreau and Michel Liénard and produced at the Val d’Osne foundry before being shipped to Lisbon. Each richly ornamented fountain rises in tiers of cherubs and allegorical figures, while nereids and other sea creatures spout water into the basins below — a subtle nod to Lisbon’s identity as a city shaped by water, trade and the sea. 

Designed in a Neo-Gothic style, the Elevador de Santa Justa has been lifting pedestrians between Lisbon’s lower and upper neighborhoods since 1902.

The Elevador de Santa Justa and Commerce Square 

As we made our way down to the waterfront, we passed the iconic Elevador de Santa Justa. Inaugurated on July 10, 1902, the Neo-Gothic cast-iron elevator was designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a Portuguese engineer whose work reflects the iron construction innovations of his era. Often compared to the techniques associated with Gustave Eiffel, the industrial structure rises roughly 148 feet (45 meters) and links Baixa, the city’s low-lying commercial district, with the plaza Largo do Carmo in Chiado. 

Passing by the Elevador and continuing on for about 10 minutes, Wally and I reached Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square), Lisbon’s vast waterfront square rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. It was from this very stretch of the riverfront — and from nearby Belém, a few miles downstream — that Portuguese ships departed on their great voyages of exploration. The reconstruction was directed by the Marquês de Pombal and financed through a combination of crown authority and taxes levied on merchants and goods — a reminder that commerce and statecraft bankrolled the city’s rebirth.

Before the disaster, this open expanse was known as Terreiro do Paço (the Palace Courtyard), acting as the ceremonial forecourt of the Paço da Ribeira (Ribeira Palace). The earthquake, and the tsunami that followed, erased the palace in an instant, permanently reshaping the waterfront. 

Today, one side of the square opens directly onto the Tagus River, while the others are ringed by stately ochre-colored buildings topped with terracotta-tiled roofs. Their arcades face the plaza and now house government ministries, Lisbon’s main tourism office, and a mix of restaurants and cafés, including the Pousada de Lisboa hotel’s Rib Beef & Wine Lisboa. 

King José I surveys Praça do Comércio on horseback, part of Lisbon’s grand post-1755 rebuild designed to project power, order and a city very much back in business.

Up on a Pedestal: A Monument Fit for a King (José I, That Is)

The centerpiece is the bronze equestrian statue of King José I, who reigned from 1750 to 1777.  Installed two decades after the disaster, the monarch sits atop a lofty pedestal, rides with arm raised, and defiantly faces the Tagus, his horse trampling writhing serpents — a symbol of triumph over catastrophe.

In reality, José I’s post-quake life was less triumphant. Traumatized by the disaster, he developed a lifelong fear of enclosed stone buildings and withdrew from the city, establishing his court in a sprawling encampment of royal tents and lightweight structures at Ajuda, on Lisbon’s outskirts. He never again lived in a traditional palace, ruling instead from his improvised settlement for the remainder of his reign.  

Flanking the pedestal are two allegorical figures: Triumph and Fame, accompanying a horse trampling a vanquished warrior and an elephant overcoming a fallen figure, together representing Portugal’s dominion in Europe and India. The front is dominated by an exuberant royal coat of arms, paired with a bronze medallion of the Marquês de Pombal — in case anyone forgot who was responsible for the monument. 

The monumental ensemble was designed by Joaquim Machado de Castro, a self-taught 18th century sculptor. José I refused to pose for the work, forcing Machado de Castro to rely on coins and other likenesses — and deliberately emphasized the king’s plumed helmet to draw attention away from the face. When Queen Mariana Vitória first viewed the completed statue at the foundry, she reportedly remarked that the king’s face looked “horrendous.”

The cover of Le Petit Journal’s February 1908 edition depicted the regicide of Dom Carlos —though incorrectly shows four assassins rather than the actual two.

The Assassination of King Carlos I and His Heir

But change, even when it reshapes a city in stone and bronze, rarely guarantees stability. Decades later, the same square would bear witness to an act that shattered any lingering illusion of permanence. 

On Saturday, February 1, 1908, Praça do Comércio became the site of a shocking assassination. King Carlos I and the royal family were returning to Lisbon from the winter hunting season at Vila Viçosa when gunfire erupted as their open carriage crossed the square. A shot struck the king in the neck, killing him instantly; his heir, Luís Filipe, was mortally wounded and died at the nearby Navy Arsenal shortly after; and his younger son, Prince Manuel, was hit in the arm.

The attackers, Alfredo Luís da Costa and Manuel Buiça, were shot dead by police and identified as republican activists. Just two years later, in 1910, the monarchy fell, ending centuries of royal rule.

Completed in 1875, the Rua Augusta Arch celebrates Lisbon’s reconstruction following the devastating 1755 earthquake.

Rua Augusta Arch: A City’s Triumph in Stone 

Rising at the northern edge of the square, the majestic Arco da Rua Augusta connects the city to the Praça do Comércio and frames the entrance to Rua Augusta, Baixa’s grand pedestrian boulevard. 

The immense arch was first conceived by Eugénio dos Santos, chief architect of Lisbon’s post-quake reconstruction. Construction began in 1759, but political unrest, funding shortages, and shifting artistic tastes stalled the project for decades. Work resumed in 1843, when a revised design by architect Veríssimo José da Costa, drawing on Santos’ original proposal, was approved. 

Completed in 1873, the arch is crowned with an assemblage of classical figures. At the summit, the allegorical figure of Glory crowns Valor and Genius — sculptures by the French artist Anatole Calmels. Below, a pantheon of historical figures and allegorical elements unfolds, including personifications of Portugal’s great rivers: the Tagus on the west side and the Douro on the east. 

Beneath the figure of the Tagus stand Viriathus, the Lusitanian leader who resisted Roman rule, and Vasco da Gama, the navigator whose voyages opened the sea route from Europe to the East. On the east side are the figures of the Marquês de Pombal and Nuno Álvares Pereira, the medieval military hero who played a pivotal role in securing Portugal’s independence from Castile and later became a Carmelite friar and founder of the Carmo Convent.

Look closely — A Brasileira’s façade is as theatrical as its clientele, with sculpted figures and ornate details framing the entrance.

A Brasileira: Where Lisbon Learned to Love Coffee 

By this time, we were both feeling peckish and in serious need of a caffeine fix, so we made our way to the buzzy A Brasileira, one of Lisbon’s oldest and most iconic cafés.

Fun fact: Famous for its cafés, shops and literary spirit, Lisbon’s Chiado district most likely takes its name from a 16th century poet, António Ribeiro. A sharp-tongued satirist, Ribeiro lived in the neighborhood and was known for his impressions of notable figures — a talent that earned him the nickname O Chiado — Portuguese for “the Squeak.” The name was already attached to the area during his lifetime, and the two became so intertwined that it’s now impossible to say with certainty which named the other. 

Opened in 1905, A Brasileira helped popularize coffee in Lisbon.

Opened on November 19, 1905, A Brasileira was founded by Adriano Telles, a Portuguese emigrant who had travelled to Brazil and married the daughter of one of the largest coffee producers in Minas Gerais, one of Brazil’s top bean-growing regions.

When he returned to Portugal, Telles set out to introduce high-quality Brazilian coffee to a city that scarcely knew it and, frankly, had little taste for its bitterness. To convert skeptics, he offered a free cup to anyone who bought a kilogram of ground coffee — a promotion that quickly built the café’s reputation. 

The small, strong coffee served here, later called bica, is comparable to an espresso and usually drunk black. Over time, the bica became a daily ritual, fueling conversations, business deals and bursts of creativity across Lisbon. Visitors can also order um garoto — literally “little boy” — the same size as a bica but half coffee, half milk, for those who prefer a milder taste. 

A Brasileira quickly became a hub for Lisbon’s artists, writers and other intellectuals. Most famously, the poet Fernando Pessoa was a frequent patron, reportedly lingering over sweet coffee or absinthe while reading, writing and smoking. Today, a bronze likeness of Pessoa sits at one of the outside tables, eternally holding court.

Duke takes a seat with Fernando Pessoa outside A Brasileira, where the poet was a regular — now permanently holding court in bronze.

The building itself is a feast for the eyes. Its ornate two-story façade, designed by architect Manuel Norte Júnior and blending Art Nouveau and Art Deco elements draws the eye with ironwork, glass and richly sculpted detailing. Beneath the café’s name, a decorative relief depicts a smiling man in a loosely tied cravat and emerald-green jacket, cheerfully enjoying a cup of coffee. Inside, the atmosphere is delightfully Old World, with polished brass fittings, richly sculpted woodwork, and a classic black-and-white checkerboard tile floor. 

Duke wishes he had kept one of Nuno Saraiva’s illustrated tablecloths, which bring A Brasileira’s playful spirit to life.

Despite the crowds, Wally and I managed to get seats outside facing Rua Garrett, where, much like Pessoa, we lingered over our coffees and split a chocolate pavlova. I couldn’t help admiring the whimsical illustrated paper tablecloths on the outdoor tables, designed by Portuguese illustrator Nuno Saraiva, which perfectly capture the café’s playful spirit — and exactly the kind of souvenir I wish we’d taken home with us. –Duke

A Brasileira
Rua Garrett 120/122

Gorgeous Guanajuato: The Ultimate Day Trip From San Miguel de Allende

A one-day itinerary for travelers looking to experience the best of Guanajuato City, including the Museo de las Momias, the Teatro Juárez and the funicular to the Pipila Monument and overlook.

If you’re staying in San Miguel de Allende, you’ve gotta take a day trip to Guanajuato — and we’ve got the perfect itinerary for you.

Even if you’re not into displays of desiccated corpses, the charming and colorful capital of Guanajuato, Mexico has plenty to offer. It makes for a delightful day trip from the tourist hotspot San Miguel de Allende. 

“The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.”

A Brief History of Guanajuato

Originally inhabited by indigenous groups, the region was conquered by the Spanish, and the town of Guanajuato was incorporated in 1554. 

Like San Miguel, Guanajuato was an important and wealthy colonial city due to the region’s large silver deposits. It played a pivotal role in Mexico’s struggle to break the Spanish yoke. The city was the site of the first major battle of the Mexican War of Independence, which took place in 1810. Guanajuato also played a significant role in the Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910 — it was the site of the first battle (which the revolutionaries won).

Hop to it! Follow this walking tour of charming and quirky Guanajuato.

Guanajuato Day Trip Itinerary

With this tried-and-true one-day itinerary, you’ll experience the best of colorful and quirky Guanajuato, taking in the top attractions, flavors and vistas that this charming city has to offer.

Start your day at the Mummy Museum, then head to the Plaza of the Frogs before strolling along the main street of town. Here are the places we recommend stopping at, before ending with a funicular trip to overlook this incredible mountain town. With its vibrantly painted buildings and lively plazas, Guanajuato is one of Mexico’s most beautiful colonial towns.

Museo de las Momias

Looking for a bit of spook-tacular fun? The Museo de las Momias has you covered. In our estimation, this is the town’s main attraction. The macabre museum features the desiccated husks of some of the city’s former residents who couldn’t pay their burial tax, were dug up and discovered to be naturally mummified due to the arid climate. It’s a morbidly fascinating experience that’s not for the faint of heart.

LEARN MORE: The Haunting and Horrific Mummy Museum of Guanajuato

Explanada del Panteón Municipal s/n

Plaza de las Ranas

Hop on over to Plaza de la Hermandad, also known as Plaza de las Ranas (Frog Plaza). The centerpiece is a fountain created by French sculptor Gabriel Guerra and installed in 1893. It looks a bit like a swimming pool, but the stars of the show are the whimsical frog statues made of stone that decorate the open plaza. 

Why frogs? The name Guanajuato comes from the indigenous Purépecha words Quanax-Huato, which means “Place of the Frogs.” One theory is that the town took its name from a pair of colossal boulders resembling giant frogs. Seeing this as an auspicious sign, the Purépecha decided to settle here. They were a powerful empire that dominated western Mexico prior to the Spanish conquest. 

Fun fact: Guanajuato was the birthplace of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, who referred to himself as “el Sapo-Rana,” the Frog-Toad. 

Galereña Dulces Típicos de Guanajuato

Want something sweet? Next stop: Galereña Dulces, a candy store that’s been around since 1865. They’ve got all kinds of traditional Mexican sweets — but don’t get your hopes up about mummy gummies. Much to our dismay, those don’t exist. 

The cellophane-wrapped caramel-colored confections we found are actually known locally as charamuscas. They’re a type of hard candy made from spun boiled cane sugar twisted into a mummy figure shape. Which, now that I think about it, these gnarly, crunchy versions are actually more fitting. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 188

Empanadas MiBu

Feeling a bit peckish? Time for a snack at Empanadas MiBu. I always say: If there’s a Heaven, there will be empanadas up there. These tasty little pockets of joy come in all sorts of varieties, from savory (rajas con queso are my fave) to sweet (you can never go wrong with Nutella), and are the perfect snack to munch on while exploring the city. They’re made to order and served in paper bags, making them the perfect handheld food to eat on the go. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 65-A

Jardín Reforma

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city by taking a stroll through this serene park that’s just past Empanadas MiBu. Head through the classical arch into a tranquil oasis that’s surprisingly peaceful for being mere steps off the city’s main drag. The loudest sound you’re likely to hear here is the gurgling of the fountain in the center or the chirping of birds.

Be sure to pop into G&G Cafe, the coffeeshop in the corner of this small park, if you need a caffeine fix. 

Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato

Continue down Avenida Benito Juarez until it turns into De Paz. The yellow Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, dedicated to the city’s patroness, Our Lady of Guanajuato, is hard to miss. The yellow edifice stands proudly on the historic Plaza de la Paz (Plaza of Peace), the main square. However, unlike most Spanish colonial cities, the plaza is not a square but a triangle, to better fit Guanajuato’s hilly geography. 

The church’s façade was designed in the Mexican Baroque style and is adorned with carvings of saints and features two bell towers and a red clay dome. The interior is just as impressive, with soaring arches, intricate gold leaf detailing and a stunning main altar that encompasses the local likeness of the Virgin Mary. 

Calle Ponciano Aguilar 7

Teatro Juárez

While you’re in the vicinity, stop by the Teatro Juárez, a majestic Neoclassical theater, built from 1872 to 1903. Bronze statues of the Greek Muses, who represent the arts and sciences, stand on the roof.

We didn’t get a chance to go inside, but it looks impressive, awash in red velvet and gold details, with a colorful ceiling motif in the Neo-Mudéjar style, a nod to the mix of Spanish and Arab design popular in the South of Spain.

The landmark hosts a wide variety of performances, from concerts and operas to plays, international movies and dance. It has served as the main venue of the Festival Internacional Cervantino since 1972. 

De Sopena 10

Funicular and El Pipila Monument 

End your stroll through town with a ride on the funicular. The station is close by the Teatro Juárez. A cable car system built in 2001 takes you up the hill to an overlook and costs 60 pesos (about $4) for a roundtrip ticket. We had to stand in line for a bit, but it was worth the wait. The ride up is pretty fun — but the view is breathtaking. I was utterly captivated by the hilly landscape and the colorful, densely clustered  patchwork of buildings that stretched out before us. I leaned against the railing and gazed out at it for a long time. It’s easy to see why the enchanting city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pro tip: When facing the city below, head off to right for a less-crowded viewing platform above the basilica.

Crowds of tourists and locals gather in the shadow of the El Pipila monument, a towering 80-foot statue built in 1939 to commemorate a hero of the Mexican War of Independence.

So who exactly was this Pipila fellow? His real name was Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, who, during the siege of Guanajuato, crawled towards the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, a granary used as a fortress by Spanish troops. He had a large stone slab used to grind corn (a pipila — hence his nickname) on his back. Once he reached the door, he used the stone to break it down, allowing the rebel forces to enter and defeat the Spanish troops.

De La Constancia 17

Outside the Mummy Museum, we watched a performance of men in drag mock-fighting. The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.

SMA Day Trip

All told, we spent about four hours in Guanajuato. We hired a driver from San Miguel de Allende through our hotel’s concierge. The ride is an hour and a half each way. We got dropped off at the Mummy Museum and then texted our driver at the end of the day once we on our way back down on the funicular.

From truly disturbing to truly delightful, Guanajuato is a day trip not to miss. –Wally

7 Fun Facts About the Monumento a la Revolución in Mexico City

The iconic Monument to the Revolution in CDMX offers an observation deck up top, tombs of famous revolutionaries and a museum below.

The Monument to the Revolution was going to be a much bigger structure but opened in its present incarnation in 1938.

We had a bit of time before seeing the Immersive Frida show at Frontón México across the street. So we wandered through the Plaza de la República, admiring the Monumento a la Revolución (Monument to the Revolution) from all angles. We didn’t end up going inside (either up to the top or down below, which are both options). 

At the time, what we knew about this monument barely scratched the surface. It has hidden depths — literally.

Here are seven fun facts about the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City.

The Monumento a la Revolución is the tallest triumphal arch in the world and has become a CDMX icon.

Fast facts about the Monument to the Revolution 

Opened: 1938

Designer: Carlos Obregón Santacilia

Height: 220 feet 

Style: Art Deco and Mexican Social Realism

A local market sets up shop in the Plaza de la República in front of the Monumento a la Revolución.

1. It’s the tallest triumphal arch in the world. 

Take that, Arc de Triomphe! Paris’ monument might arguably be more famous, but Mexico City’s rises higher than any other, at 220 feet. (The Arc de Triomphe is a paltry 164 feet high.)

A historic shot of the structure first being built, from 1912. The monument was originally going to be a palatial government building, the Palacio Legislativo Federal.

2. It was originally supposed to be a massive legislative building. 

The structure was planned to be the Palacio Legislativo Federal (Federal Legislative Palace). No royalty would have resided in this palace — instead, it was to house legislators and bureaucrats during the corrupt reign of Porfirio Díaz (more on him below). But then the Mexican Revolution ignited and the project was abandoned. 

The metal structure that was to serve as the core of the building languished for over 20 years, rusting away. But then Mexican architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia convinced the government to transform the structure into a monument to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution.

The dictator Porfirio Díaz (left) was ousted during the Mexican Revolution, and Francisco I. Madero (right) was set up as the president of the new democracy.

3. The Mexican Revolution deposed a crooked ruler and instituted democracy for the nation.

A hero of the battle that defeated invading French troops (why Cinco de Mayo is celebrated every year), Díaz ran for president of Mexico. But when he lost, the sore loser launched a coup in 1876 and seized power, ruling nonstop, aside from a four-year break, until 1911. Francisco I. Madero, a presidential contender who was jailed when he threatened to unseat Díaz, became a leader of the pro-democracy movement. He called Mexicans to arms on November 20, 1910 (that date is now Revolution Day). The revolutionaries succeeded, and Díaz’s reign ended when he was forced into exile in France. It’s estimated that 2 million people died during the revolution, or 1 in 8 Mexicans.

The (in)famous bandit Pancho Villa, folk hero of the Mexican Revolution, is interred in a pillar of the Monumento a la Revolución.

4. The monument also serves as a mausoleum for Mexican presidents and rebels.

If I had done a bit of research beforehand, I would definitely have insisted on heading inside the monument. The bases of each of the four main pillars house the tombs of some of the most famous Mexican revolutionaries: Pancho Villa (bandit), Madero (president), Plutarco Elías Calles (general, then president) and Lázaro Cárdenas (another general, another president). 

The glass elevator in the middle of the monument takes visitors up to a viewing platform by the cupola.

5. There’s an observation deck at the top of the monument.

The Monument to the Revolution underwent an extensive renovation in 2010, when a new glass elevator was added. You can easily spot it rising right into the center of the structure. It takes visitors up to a viewing platform inside the copper-clad cupola — though I bet the ride up is the best part. Part of the structure has been left exposed to reveal the steel innards that support it. If this interests you, I’ve heard you can book a short tour during your visit. 

6. And, under all those tons of concrete, there’s a museum and art exhibit space below.

Head down to the basement to find an art gallery as well as the National Museum of the Revolution. The museum (self-described as avant-garde — we’ll have to take their word for it) includes a series of rooms that each deal with a time period of Mexico’s history.

To one side of the monument, there’s a sunken garden that offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City.

7. The Plaza de la República has a nice hangout spot. 

The day we walked around the plaza, there was a small market by the monument’s main entrance. I do love how vendors can set up shop pretty much anywhere in Mexico City. This market seemed to be more for locals, with stalls selling shirts, hats, purses and the like, with some food stands mixed in. 

On the other side of the plaza, there’s a sunken garden. The walls are high enough to block out the busy intersections that surround the square — certainly visually if not aurally. It’s a great place to seek a bit of serenity right in the midst of a commercial district. 

So, even though there’s so much going on inside, above and below the Monumento a la Revolución, I never beat myself up for missing something while traveling. I’m always happy to have a reason to go back — especially to as magical a city as CDMX. –Wally

Keeping the Plaza de la República clean

Monumento a la Revolución

Plaza de la República S/N
Tabacalera
Cuauhtémoc
06030 Ciudad de México
México