hanoi

Mystical, Magical Ha Long Bay

The otherworldly Bay of the Descending Dragon and Hang Sung Sot Cave are a don’t-miss day trip from Hanoi.

The boats that ply the waters of Ha Long Bay are modern takes on Chinese junks.

The boats that ply the waters of Ha Long Bay are modern takes on Chinese junks.

If it hadn’t been for the typhoon, we would never have visited Ha Long Bay. 

We were planning on spending a couple of days in Hanoi, then heading down to Central Vietnam to visit Hoi An, which everyone we spoke to gushed about, calling it the prettiest town they’ve been to. 

The problem, though, was that a horrific tropical cyclone had swept across from the Philippines, leaving Hoi An 10 feet underwater. Needless to say, we worried a waterlogged town wouldn’t be as charming, so we decided to stay in Hanoi for this portion of our trip. 

I know it sounds as if I’m being overly dramatic, but when we were out there, with no one else in sight, as the deep darkness of nature encroached, we felt utterly helpless.

We added a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda as well as an overnight boat ride on Ha Long Bay. One look at the pictures of this mystical-looking locale, the rock formations peeking out of the water, wrapped in an ethereal mist, and we were hooked. 

Through our hotel, the Prince II in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, we arranged an overnight excursion on Ha Long Bay. The tourist boats that ply the waters are modeled on Chinese junks, with their distinctive sails that unfurl like handheld fans. The real deal once sailed upon the bay.

Duke and Wally were glad that they ended up having more time in Northern Vietnam to take an overnight excursion on Ha Long Bay.

Duke and Wally were glad that they ended up having more time in Northern Vietnam to take an overnight excursion on Ha Long Bay.

The boat operators assured us we would want a hat to protect us from the sun, so I caved and bought a coppery cowboy hat (a genuine Vietnamese article, I’m sure). I spent much of the second morning on the top deck, writing in my journal and resting with the cowboy hat over my face.

Wally takes a nap on the top deck with his stylin’ new cowboy hat.

Wally takes a nap on the top deck with his stylin’ new cowboy hat.

Aside from Duke, our travel buddy Vanessa and me, there were two Chinese couples sharing our boat, which had a name that translated to Sea Pearl 6. The one bummer was that they ran out of double berths, so Duke and I had to sleep in a small stateroom with twin beds.

Ahoy, mateys! All aboard the Sea Pearl 6!

Ahoy, mateys! All aboard the Sea Pearl 6!

Despite there being quite a few other tourboats out on the bay, they disappeared behind the rock outcroppings and it didn’t feel crowded.

Of course we kept singing a riff on the U2 song: “Ha Long… Ha Long must we sing this song?”

Now and then, a woman in a rowboat loaded up with snacks would pull up alongside our boat, calling out, “Coca Cola! Snickers! Coca Cola! Snickers!” This became another refrain of the trip.

The rocks that dot the bay are said to be the undulating body of a dragon, peeking up from the depths.

The rocks that dot the bay are said to be the undulating body of a dragon, peeking up from the depths.

The Legend of Ha Long Bay

As with many Vietnamese words, the bay is spelled variably as two words or mushed together as Halong. (In fact, the official name of the country is Việt Nam.)

Ha Long means “Dragon Descending,” and our guide told us how a dragon came down from the sky, plunging into the Gulf of Tonkin. Some of the numerous islets were formed when it lashed its tail, and others are its offspring, peeking their undulating bodies out of the water.

Although we didn’t spot anyone with scales or tails, the Vietnamese people believe themselves to be descended from dragons.

Others tell a version of the legend of Ha Long Bay that’s more elaborate.

No matter its origin, there’s something otherworldly about this bay of over 1,000 small limestone islands. Despite the jagged formations, greenery somehow finds a way to root itself, covering the outcroppings and helping with the illusion that these are humps of a snakelike dragon’s body.

Wally and Vanessa pretend to be in a Scooby-Doo episode as they descend into Hang Sung Sot, the Cave of Surprises.

Wally and Vanessa pretend to be in a Scooby-Doo episode as they descend into Hang Sung Sot, the Cave of Surprises.

Hang Sung Sot, the Cave of Surprises — and Its Cock Rock

Our first stop on the trip was to a massive cave complex, Hang Sung Sot, which translates as Most Surprising Cave or Cave of Surprises. It got its name from what the French called the island, Île de la Surprise.

Duke and Wally, sweaty but happy, in the massive cave complex in Ha Long Bay

Duke and Wally, sweaty but happy, in the massive cave complex in Ha Long Bay

Ladies and gentlemen, the fantastical fertility phallus, the legendary Cock Rock!

Ladies and gentlemen, the fantastical fertility phallus, the legendary Cock Rock!

It was immense, like a theme park ride, and puts other caves I’ve explored to shame. We wandered through three chambers of karst, or eroded limestone, lit up with colored lights. The highlight was a rock formation undeniably shaped like a glowing pinkish orange erection. Not surprisingly, locals believe this phallic formation possesses powers of fertility.

The bay is mostly empty, aside from tourboats and the odd floating structure.

The bay is mostly empty, aside from tourboats and the odd floating structure.

Nearly Killed in a Kayak

We stopped at the local “village” — really just a series of wooden pallets floating on the water, supporting small structures, painted happy shades of blue or yellow, where you could buy supplies. There were square sections in one section of the village that were used as mini-ponds to raise fish.

A waterborne snack vessel alongside tourboats for daytrippers

A waterborne snack vessel alongside tourboats for daytrippers

We rented kayaks here and headed off for an adventure. Duke and I decided that we’d do a two-seater, which turned out to be a complete mistake. We just couldn’t get into a rhythm and kept going off course.

Utterly frustrated, I muttered, “We’d be terrible on The Amazing Race. Next time we get our own kayaks.”

We stopped at a floating “village” to get snacks and to take kayaks out for a fateful excursion.

We stopped at a floating “village” to get snacks and to take kayaks out for a fateful excursion.

At first our entire group was in the same vicinity, but Duke and I went off to explore a sea cave, and by the time we turned around, everyone else was gone. At this point, the sun was setting, and instead of admiring its golden orange and rose hues, we started to panic. Everywhere we looked, we saw the small islands that dot the bay — but our boat was nowhere in sight. We felt exposed. One tip and we’d be in the water. Even though we were surrounded by the karst islets, they were so jagged and steep, we’d never be able to climb onto one.

As the sky darkened and my blood pressure rose, we rounded a small island and spotted a vessel in the distance. 

“We’re heading to that boat, whether it’s ours or not,” I declared. “If it’s not, they can take us to ours.” 

We did our best to paddle as quickly as possible toward the junk boat, and relief flooded over us as we recognized the Sea Pearl 6, with Vanessa standing on deck. It was all a bit too close for comfort, and we wished one of the crew had remained with us to help ensure our safety. (Or maybe we were just a bad combination of inept and irresponsible.)

I know it sounds as if I’m being overly dramatic, but when we were out there, with no one else in sight, as the deep darkness of nature encroached, we felt utterly helpless.

In the morning, mist covered the bay, and Wally went on deck to write in his journal.

In the morning, mist covered the bay, and Wally went on deck to write in his journal.

Duke is much more relaxed after the death-defying adventure on the night before.

Duke is much more relaxed after the death-defying adventure of the night before.

Vanessa hangs out on the aft deck, admiring the view.

Vanessa hangs out on the aft deck, admiring the view.

Despite our near-death experience, I’m sure the Mother Dragon would have protected us. And while we were sad to miss out on the much-gushed-about village of Hoi An, we were happy to have had some extra time in Hanoi to experience the magic of this unforgettable bay. –Wally

 

The Temple of Literature in Hanoi and Its Confucius Connection

Looking for things to do in Hanoi? Walk through the five courtyards of Van Mieu and Quoc Tu Giam, Vietnam’s oldest national university. 

A pair of stone steles outside the main gates instructed everyone — even the emperor — to dismount their horses before entering the compound. It’s not as much of a concern nowadays.

A pair of stone steles outside the main gates instructed everyone — even the emperor — to dismount their horses before entering the compound. It’s not as much of a concern nowadays.

One of the perks of staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is that its many attractions are within walking distance. 

En route to one of the must-see destinations, the Temple of Literature, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I passed a shop selling trendy men’s short sleeve shirts. Sadly, even an XL in Vietnam would have been too small. 

The Temple of Literature is this way — but who’s right? Wally or Vanessa?

The Temple of Literature is this way — but who’s right? Wally or Vanessa?

We also passed the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long on our way to the temple. 

confucius.jpg

The Temple of Literature was built to honor Confucius, who strived to have his followers live up to their ideal selves.

Quoc Tu Giam University

Van Mieu, the temple-cum-university, is located in the Dong Da district, a leafy green neighborhood about a 35-minute walk from the Prince II Hotel, where we were staying.

The temple was originally conceived and built in 1070 to honor Chinese philosopher Confucius.

A mere six years later, Quoc Tu Giam, literally translated as the “Temple of the King Who Distinguished Literature,” was established within the complex. The prestigious academy opened in 1076 to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his 72 disciples to the royal family and elite members of society before opening its doors to bright commoners in 1253. Students accepted into Van Mieu’s Quoc Tu Giam attended for three to seven years. The curriculum was influenced by Imperial China and involved rigorous study in classical Chinese literature, poetry and penmanship. 

The man who says he can and the man who says he can’t are both usually right.
— Confucius

The core of Confucianism is aimed at creating the ideal man, emphasizing the disciplines of social, ethical and political conduct. It’s believed that if everyone followed these principles, the right balance would be attained, and social order would prevail. 

Five courtyards lead through the complex.

Five courtyards lead through the complex.

Making an Entrance: the Great Portico

One of the first things you’ll see as you approach the historic structure is the impressive two-tiered main temple gate, Van Mieu Mon. The grand portico contains three doorways. The largest is in the center and was traditionally reserved for the emperor. To the left is a stylized relief of the “Tiger of the Mountain” and to the right, the “Dragon in the Cloud.” These flank the main doorway and represent symbols of the power of the king and the success of students and past scholars. 

The second level holds a bronze bell that was rung when a notable person entered the temple complex. For some reason, it didn’t ring when we came in.

The three pathways beyond run the entire length of the complex. 

Van Mieu’s design and layout are based upon Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, located in the northeastern province of Shantung, China. Visitors take the central path, which leads to Dai Trung Mon, an open-air pavilion supported by red painted columns. Atop the middle of the roof, two carp with raised tails flank a gourd-shaped vase. 

templeofliteraturebonsai.jpg

Bonsai trees are planted in the temple grounds.

The Five Courtyards 

The Temple of Literature is divided into a total of five courtyards. Behind its high brick walls are a pair of courtyards where students would relax among the ancient trees and manicured lawns. 

In the center of the second courtyard is the Khue Van Cac, the Constellation of Literature pavilion. Khue is the name of the brightest star in the constellation of 28 in the Milky Way. The square wooden structure is supported by four white stone columns and has an elaborate terra cotta-tiled double roof. Its circular windows with spoke-like slats symbolize radiating suns. 

templeofliteraturewell.jpg

Well of Heavenly Clarity? More like Pond of Murky Greenness.

Muddy Waters at the Well of Heavenly Clarity

Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the Khue Van Cac and entered a third courtyard, where we found Thien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly Clarity. Ironically it’s neither clear nor a well, but rather a large basin of murky green water. 

Le Cour des Steles, as the French would say, as it was back in 1890.

Le Cour des Steles, as the French would say, as it was back in 1890

A similar shot of the Well of Heavenly Clarity, this one from the 1970s.

A similar shot of the Well of Heavenly Clarity, this one from the 1970s

Thien Quang Tinh and the Doctors’ Steles

Two great halls stand to either side of Thien Quang Tinh, containing the treasured stone steles placed atop the backs of turtle statues. In Vietnamese culture, turtles are a symbol of wisdom and longevity. 

templeofliteratureturtles.JPG

These tombstone-like monuments honor graduates and sit atop turtles, which represent wisdom.

The names commemorate more than 1,300 students who attained doctoral ranks in the triennial royal court exams held at Quoc Tu Giam and provide details about the greatness of the monarch issuing the exam, as well as some regional history. Over time, the turtles’ foreheads have become burnished by the touch of thousands of hands — it was considered good luck for students to rub the heads of the statues before their exams. 

confuciusdisciples.jpg

Shrines to two of Confucius’ followers

The Ceremonial Hall and Sanctuary of Great Success

The fourth courtyard is where you’ll find the Ceremonial Hall and Dai Bai Duong, the Sanctuary of Great Success, which was once considered so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, anyone may enter.

Inside is an elaborately decorated altar to Confucius and his four disciples Yanhui, Mencius, Zisi and Zheng Shen. One each side stands a bronze crane atop a turtle’s back.

templeofliteraturecrane.JPG

Wally loves a giant crane — but feels bad for the poor turtle it’s standing on.

templeofliteratureconfuciusshrine.jpg

The Sanctuary of Great Success houses a shrine to Confucius.

portedelagrandereussite.jpg

This part of the temple was once so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, you’re free to roam about its confines.

From University to Pagoda of Crows

The fifth and final courtyard is where the actual university, Quoc Tu Giam, once stood. It lay abandoned when the French arrived in 1883 and was referred to pejoratively by them as the Pagoda of Crows since a flock of the black birds nested in an old mango tree on the site. The French razed the original building to accommodate the sick and wounded during wartime.

templeofliteraturewally.jpg

The roots of a massive banyan tree allow Wally to take a dramatic shot.

templeofliteratureduke.jpg

Duke taking a break while exploring the temple

Today, there are several exhibits within the reconstructed academy, including a statue of Chu Van An, one of the academy’s rectors and a beloved figure in Vietnamese history for his dedication to teaching. 

Fortunately, the Temple of Literature has retained most of its original architectural style and character through multiple wars and restorations. It was declared a monument historique in 1906 by the French administration and restored by the École Française d’Extrême-Orient in 1920. Admission is 30,000 Vietnamese dong, or about $1.30. –Duke



templeofliteratureroof.jpg

A dragon undulates along the rooftop of the sanctuary.

Temple of Literature
58 Quốc Tử Giám
Văn Miếu
Đống Đa
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

 

The Legend of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter

A magical sword with the power to change fate is given to the warrior king Le Loi by a golden turtle who lives deep beneath the waters of  Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Legend has it that beneath the waters of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter, a turtle god guards a magic sword.

Legend has it that beneath the waters of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter, a turtle god guards a magic sword.

Hoan Kiem Lake, the tranquil body of water located within Hanoi’s Old Quarter, plays an important role in Vietnamese mythology. While there are several variations of the tale, all include the central figure of Le Loi, a great warrior defending Vietnam from the Ming Dynasty of China, as well as a fisherman, a deified golden turtle and Thuan Thein, a powerful weapon bequeathed to Le Loi by a Dragon King.

Imbued with magic, the sword enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men, bringing one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. 
Emperor Le Loi holds his magic sword, which could transform him into a giant, while Kim Qui, the golden turtle god, looks on.

Emperor Le Loi holds his magic sword, which could transform him into a giant, while Kim Qui, the golden turtle god, looks on.

Le Loi and Le Than: The Warrior and the Fisherman

Le Loi was a real person who lived in the 1400s. A revolutionary who became emperor, he began a dynasty that would last 360 years. 

According to the nation’s founding myth, the Vietnamese people are the offspring of a sea dragon and a mountain fairy. With such fantastical creatures running around, perhaps it’s not surprising that a local god, Long Vuong, called the Dragon King, happened to possess a magical sword.

The legend of Le Loi as depicted on a Vietnamese stamp

The legend of Le Loi as depicted on a Vietnamese stamp

The weapon was divided into two parts: the blade and its handle. The blade was discovered in Than Hóa Province by a fisherman named Le Than. Believing he had caught a big fish, he was bewildered to find a long thin piece of metal entangled in his net. He tossed it back into the water and recast his net in a different location. He was puzzled to have the same thing happen again. When the sword ended up in his net for a third time, he accepted his fate and decided to take it home with him. 

Meanwhile, the young general Le Loi set out to assemble an army. While recruiting from the surrounding villages, he paid a visit to the province of Than Hóa, happening to stop at the fisherman’s home. Though the interior was dimly lit, the blade unexpectedly emitted a shimmering glow in Le Loi’s presence. Le Than sold the blade to Le Loi, which was inscribed with the words “Thuan Thein” (According to Heaven’s Will).

There was only one problem — there wasn’t a safe way to grasp it. 

Sometime later, while fleeing the Ming army, Le Loi climbed a banyan tree to conceal himself, and it was there that he discovered the sword’s hilt. The two pieces fit together perfectly. Problem solved.

Imbued with magic, Thuan Thein enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men. The sword brought Le Loi one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. 

With echos of the Le Loi legend, King Arthur returned his magic sword, Excalibur, to the Lady of the Lake.

With echos of the Le Loi legend, King Arthur returned his magic sword, Excalibur, to the Lady of the Lake.

The Lake of the Restored Sword

Like the legend of Excalibur, the magical weapon wielded by King Arthur, Thuan Thein had to be returned to its watery source. After the war, Le Loi rowed out onto Luc Thuy, Green Water Lake, in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and was met by the golden turtle god Kim Qui. In a human voice, it asked Le Loi to return the sword to its divine owner, lest it corrupt him. The noble emperor drew the sword and cast it into the lake. With great speed, Kim Qui caught the sword in its mouth and retreated to the bottom of the lake, never to be seen again. 

A relief from Trấn Quốc Pagoda, on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake, features the turtle deity with the magic sword strapped on its back.

A relief from Trấn Quốc Pagoda, on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake, features the turtle deity with the magic sword strapped on its back.

To commemorate this extraordinary event, Le Loi renamed the lake Hoan Kiem, Lake of the Restored Sword.

Turtle Tower, or Thap Ruá, sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem on a small island, built to honor the tale of the Restored Lake and its guardian, Kim Qui.

Turtle Tower, or Thap Ruá, sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem on a small island, built to honor the tale of the Restored Lake and its guardian, Kim Qui.

A stone structure now rises from a small islet in the lake. Known as Thap Ruá, or Turtle Tower, it was built to honor Kim Qui, the magical aquatic guardian of the sword. –Duke


VISIT the Temple of the Jade Mountain in Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter


 

Ngoc Son, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, in the Hanoi Old Quarter

Enter the gates and cross the bright red Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake to explore this Hanoi tourist attraction and see the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

If you’re staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and wandering its warren of narrow streets like we did, chances are you’ll eventually end up at Hoan Kiem Lake. The small body of water is located in the historic district and known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. Its name alludes to the mythical blade wielded by Emperor Le Loi, a powerful warrior credited with liberating Vietnam from Chinese rule in 1428. 

After finishing our breakfasts of toasted baguettes and instant coffee with condensed milk at the Prince II Hotel on our second day in the Old Quarter, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I headed out to visit Den Ngoc Son. One of the most-visited sites in Hanoi, the Temple of the Jade Mountain lies on a small islet off the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Rua, Tortoise Tower

This is also where you’ll find the picturesque yet inaccessible landmark, Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower. The structure sits on a remote island in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake and was built in 1886 to memorialize the legend of General Le Loi and Kim Qui, the golden tortoise who’s believed to fiercely protect the magical sword of the Dragon King beneath the placid waters. 

One of the temple’s colorful shrines.

One of the temple’s colorful shrines

According to historical documents within the temple grounds, Ngoc Son was established in 1841 and later renovated under the guidance of Confucian scholar-poet Nguyen Van Sieu in 1864. Its pavilions and pagoda-style shrines are dedicated to revered beings and enlightened teachers, including General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century; La To, the patron saint of physicians; and scholar Van Xuong De Quan.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

Three Is the Magic Number: Through the Tam Quan Gates

In Vietnamese culture, odd numbers bring luck and fortune, and perhaps that’s why most Vietnamese temples feature the traditional tam quan, or triple gate — which is the case at Ngoc Son. 

The first gate is decorated with two large red Chinese characters — happiness on the right, and prosperity on the left. I’d like to imagine that by walking through this portal, these attributes are bestowed upon those who make the pilgrimage to the temple. 

Just beyond and adjacent to the first gate is the Tháp Bút, a stone tower built in the shape of a traditional calligraphy brush, complete with nib. Erected by Nguyen Van Sieu, the totem-like monument is inscribed with the words “Tà thanh thiên,” which somehow carries this lengthy meaning: To write on the blue sky is to imply the height of a genuine and righteous person's determination and will.

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate is embellished with colorful relief panels containing the Taoist symbols of yin and yang — a dragon and a tiger. The dragon represents male yang energy as power, wisdom and strength, while the tiger represents female protective yin energy.

Swimming koi carp gazing at the moon's reflection near a pine tree with roosting white cranes and are depicted on the other side and symbolize the concept of longevity — cranes are mythically believed to live for 1,000 years (koi, not so much). 

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

Finally, there’s the third gate. Be sure to pause in front of it and look up for the curious stone resembling half a peach perched on the back of three frogs. This object is known as the Dai Nghien, or Ink Slab. It was intentionally placed here by Van Sieu and ingeniously follows the Vietnamese lunar calendar. Like something out of a Dan Brown novel or perhaps an Indiana Jones adventure, the Pen Tower aligns with the sun every May 5 (which is, incidentally, Wally’s birthday) and casts its shadow upon the sacred stone. 

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

What the Huc?! Over the Red Bridge

Once Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the three gates, we crossed the graceful crimson painted wooden Huc Bridge, which arches over Hoan Kiem Lake, linking the shore with the islet. 

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Another gate separates the outside world from the interior realm of Ngoc Son Temple, known as the Dac Nguyen Lau, or Moon Reflection Pavilion. It was constructed in the Taoist style and has raised relief panels depicting the kylân, or lion-horse (often mistranslated as “unicorn”). This mythical hybrid animal symbolizes loyalty and power. To the left of the kylân is a tortoise carrying a book and a sword — representing strength and longevity. Both are suitable guardians for protecting the temple that lies beyond. 

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Pagodas, Pavilions and Taxidermied Turtles, Oh My!

Inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. The upswept eaves of the terracotta-tiled rooftops are adorned with intricately carved dragons. Altars brim with offerings of fresh flowers, tea, fruit and money left by worshippers. 

In front of the Tran Ba, the main pavilion, is a massive cauldron-shaped incense burner with stylized dragon heads on either side. The smell of incense smoke is one of my strongest memories of Hanoi — its scent permeated the humid air at all hours of the day. Incense is considered to be a sacred bridge between the visible world of the living and the spiritual realm of heaven and the gods.

Doors leading into the temple

Doors leading into the temple

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

There are also braziers specifically designed for burning joss paper, colorful fake currency known as ghost or spirit money. These offerings are believed to provide material wealth to deceased relatives and friends as well as deities. 

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Today, the turtle and the sword are a symbol of Hanoi, and you’ll notice this iconography throughout the city — including the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old. Sadly, the lake’s last known resident tortoise passed into legend in 2016 due to pollution. 

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

A jade demon

A jade demon

A holy man

A holy man

If you’d like a more authentic experience like we did, I’d recommended visiting Ngoc Son in the morning. You’ll find it buzzing with worshippers and locals who come to make their offerings before their workday. As one of the most-visited sights in the Old Quarter, it can become overrun with tourists by mid-afternoon. 

A gilded phoenix

A gilded phoenix

Inside the temple

Inside the temple

The entrance fee is a mere 3,000 dong or 13¢. To be respectful, consider covering your shoulders and knees before entering the temple. 

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

I’d also recommend walking around the lake at night to see the Huc Bridge and Tortoise Tower shimmering reflected on the surface of the water. It’s enough to make you believe in magic. –Duke

 

Ngoc Son Temple
Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Hàng Trống
Hoàn Kiếm
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

The Charming Chaos of the Hanoi Old Quarter

How to navigate the endless stream of motorbike traffic, plus a history of the 36 Streets in Hanoi, Vietnam, which are divided up by the products they sell.

Women sitting outside on small stools at makeshift shops are a common sight in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

Women sitting outside on small stools at makeshift shops are a common sight in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

We trust our doctor to not only keep us healthy, but we often take his travel advice as well. When I told Dr. Slotten we were planning a week in Vietnam, he recommended we skip Ho Chi Minh City and instead fly in and out of Hanoi, with its utterly charming Old Quarter. Decision made. After all, often the best travel advice you can get is from people who have blazed the trail before you.

A gorgeous fruit market we stumbled upon

A gorgeous fruit market we stumbled upon

So, for us, there wasn’t any debate: We knew we wanted to stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, known as the Hoàn Kiếm District. We just didn’t quite know what we’d be getting into.

After the first day or so, Vanessa and Duke stopped being intimidated by the near-death experience of crossing the road — for the most part.

After the first day or so, Vanessa and Duke stopped being intimidated by the near-death experience of crossing the road — for the most part.

How to Cross the Street in Hanoi

The first thing you need to know is how insane the traffic is. The narrow, winding streets are filled with motorbikes. A never-ending stream of motorbikes. This makes something as simple as crossing the street a near-death experience. 

Some vendors take their shops on the road.

Some vendors take their shops on the road.

As a pedestrian, you can’t wait for a break in traffic to cross the street — you’ll be waiting forever. Literally. 

So here’s what you have to do: Take a deep breath and step out into traffic. Don’t focus on the fact that there are swarms of motorbikes heading in your direction. Take slow, deliberate steps. It’s like a school of fish: Somehow — thankfully! miraculously! magically! — the motorbikes will swerve around you as you make your way across the street. 

I have a theory that you’d do just as well (or perhaps even be better off) closing your eyes, though I never tried it.

Motorbikes piled high with goods and passengers are a common sight in Vietnam.

Motorbikes piled high with goods and passengers are a common sight in Vietnam.

We spent a few days in Hanoi and didn’t end up with any sort of injury from these constant death-defying street crossings (though our travel buddy, Vanessa, did get her heel clipped a couple of times). 

The Hanoi version of a shoe store.

The Hanoi version of a shoe store.

The 36 Streets: A History of the Old Quarter in Hanoi

There are more modern sections of the capital city of Hanoi, with wider streets that can be even more alarming to cross since you have to vie with cars barreling toward you across multiple lanes. 

That’s bananas! Merchandise fills the sidewalks throughout the Old Quarter.

That’s bananas! Merchandise fills the sidewalks throughout the Old Quarter.

But no trip to Hanoi is complete without an exploration of the Old Quarter. The area first became known as a place of craftsmanship and commerce during the Ly Dynasty (1010-1225), when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi. Artisans followed the imperial entourage to the new city and set up shop in the shadow of the new palace, forming guilds to protect their best interests. In fact, what's now the Old Quarter was enclosed behind thick rampart walls with massive wooden gates until well into the 19th century.

Songbirds in cages were music to our ears.

Songbirds in cages were music to our ears.

The winding streets are densely packed with long, narrow shops — a ploy to avoid high taxes — with merchandise spilling out onto the sidewalk. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is known as the 36 Streets, though in truth these were more like small neighborhoods, often housing people from the same village who had learned a traditional trade. Each neighborhood’s name began with the word “Hang,” which can be defined as “shop,” and had a temple or communal house known as a dinh dedicated to its patron spirit. 

Wally and Duke called this stretch Tin Pan Alley.

Wally and Duke called this stretch Tin Pan Alley.

Navigating these twisting streets can be quite a challenge. I typically have a better sense of direction than Duke, but I was perpetually lost in the Old Quarter. Somehow Duke was able to keep landmarks in his head. We’d be wandering for a while, and then he’d say, “If we turn right at that shop with all the gravestone markers, it’s a straight shot to the hotel.” And I would just shake my head in amazement and be glad that one of us was able to find our way back.

Colorful fruit on sale — some types we hadn’t seen before

Colorful fruit on sale — some types we hadn’t seen before

I spent quite a bit of time trying to discover a list of the original 36 Streets, without much luck. Then I learned that the 36 might be an abstract concept. In Eastern philosophy, the number nine represents the concept of abundance. Multiply that by the four cardinal directions, and you get 36.

The currency of Vietnam is actually the dong — which always made Wally and Duke giggle when they asked, “How many dongs is that?”

The currency of Vietnam is actually the dong — which always made Wally and Duke giggle when they asked, “How many dongs is that?”

I know why the caged bird sings.

I know why the caged bird sings.

The fish market was filled with blood and guts.

The fish market was filled with blood and guts.

Some of the streets are still dedicated to their original goods, though most have adapted to more modern products as the centuries have passed by. And the winding streets are now further subdivided so that there are currently 76. 

Before we knew what was happening, a woman had the hat on Duke’s head and was positioning the pole on his shoulder. So, we ran with it, took a picture and gave her some money.

Before we knew what was happening, a woman had the hat on Duke’s head and was positioning the pole on his shoulder. So, we ran with it, took a picture and gave her some money.

The narrow buildings lean against each other, looking like they’re about to topple over like dominos.

The narrow buildings lean against each other, looking like they’re about to topple over like dominos.

Unable to find a trustworthy list of the 36 Streets, I’ve cobbled this one together from a few sources. Don’t view it as the authoritative record — but here are some of the guilds, featuring the area’s name, what it originally sold, and where possible, what it now offers:

  1. Hang Bac: Silver — now jewelry

  2. Hang Bat: Glazed terracotta ware

  3. Hang Be: Rafts

  4. Hang Bo: Bamboo baskets — now haberdashery (small items for sewing, including buttons, zippers and ribbons)

  5. Hang Bong: Cotton products, such as blankets and pillows

  6. Hang Buom: Sails — now imported foods, alcohol and sweets

  7. Hang Chai: Bottles and other recycled goods

  8. Hang Chieu: Sedge mats — now mats, rope and bamboo blinds

  9. Hang Cot: Bamboo lattices

  10. Hang Da: Leather

  11. Hang Dan: Stringed instruments

  12. Hang Dao: Fabric, including silk

  13. Hang Dau: Oil — now shoes

  14. Hang Dieu: Pipes — now cushions and mattresses

  15. Hang Dong: Copper

  16. Hang Duong: Sugar — now clothes and general goods

  17. Hang Ga: Chicken, duck and pigeon meat

  18. Hang Gai: Hemp goods — now silk, tailoring and souvenirs

  19. Hang Giay: Paper and shoes

  20. Hang Hai: Shoes

  21. Hang Hom: Wooden chests — now glue, paint and varnish

  22. Hang Khay: Trays

  23. Hang Luoc: Combs

  24. Hang Ma: Paper votive objects — now paper goods

  25. Hang Mam: Pickled fish

  26. Hang May: Rattan goods

  27. Hang Muoi: Salt

  28. Hang Non: Hats

  29. Hang Quat: Ceremonial fans — now religious accessories

  30. Hang Than: Charcoal

  31. Hang Thiec: Tin goods — now tin goods and mirrors

  32. Hang Thung: Barrels

  33. Hang Tre: Bamboo

  34. Hang Trong: Drum skin — now bag mending and upholstery

  35. Hang Vai : Fabric — now bamboo ladders

  36. Hang Voi: Limes

What kind of person will this little tyke grow up to be? Depends on what neighborhood they grow up in!

What kind of person will this little tyke grow up to be? Depends on what neighborhood they grow up in!

Hanoians are said to associate a person’s character based on which area of the Old Quarter they live in. For instance, men from Hang Bac, known for its silversmiths, are polite and elegant, while women from Hang Dao, where silk is sold, are known for their charm and beauty. 

While we were in Hanoi, we stayed at the Prince II Hotel in Hang Giay, known for paper and shoes. I wonder what that makes us. –Wally

Much of the Old Quarter feels a bit run-down.

Much of the Old Quarter feels a bit run-down.

Flower vendors selling their fragrant wares from the back of their bikes.

Flower vendors selling their fragrant wares from the back of their bikes

We knew we were near our hotel when we passed this gravestone maker. Hang Mam, once Pickled Fish Street, now sells marble headstone markers with a picture of the deceased.

We knew we were near our hotel when we passed this gravestone maker. Hang Mam, once Pickled Fish Street, now sells marble headstone markers with a picture of the deceased.

Paper lanterns are on sale along Hang Ma, or Votive Paper Street.

Paper lanterns are on sale along Hang Ma, or Votive Paper Street.

One street was entirely devoted to toys.

Wally and Duke felt like babes in Toyland.

Plastic bags stuffed with stuffed animals — some of which just might end up at a carnival near you!

Plastic bags stuffed with stuffed animals — some of which just might end up at a carnival near you!

Many people in the Old Quarter spend all day sitting out on the sidewalk, beginning with a pot of pho for breakfast.

Many people in the Old Quarter spend all day sitting out on the sidewalk, beginning with a pot of pho for breakfast.

Fresh veggies can be bought out of baskets on the street.

Fresh veggies can be bought out of baskets on the street.

This sign cracked us up every time we passed it.

This sign cracked us up every time we passed it.