Mansions, Monuments and Museums of the Plaza de Jerónimo Páez in Córdoba

While exploring the historic quarter of Córdoba, Spain, admire the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and Casa del Judío before you stop in the archaeological museum.

It’s easy to understand why Córdoba’s entire historic quarter earned its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1985. As Wally and I explored the narrow cobblestone streets of la Judería, the city’s former Jewish quarter, our wanderings led us to charming plazas that opened up to reveal historic homes and restaurants with inviting outdoor seating, where you can sit and relax with the locals. 

Among these squares is Plaza de Jerónimo Páez, named after a descendant of the influential Cordobesan family responsible for the Renaissance-style Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and the equally historic Casa del Judío. Having endured years of neglect, the plaza was renovated in the 1990s, when the archaeological museum was expanded.

During the city’s era of Roman occupation, known as Corduba at that time, this square served as the entertainment district, boasting one of the largest theaters in the empire. The partial remains of this historic structure are now displayed beneath the modern Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba, located next to the atmospheric 16th century Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo.

From palace gardens to private residence to school to museum, the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has had a rich history.

Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo

What initially caught our attention as we walked through the square was the gloriously decayed sandstone façade of the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo family — aptly named, considering their surname, Castillejo, translates to “Little Castle” — which is essentially what this home was.

A pair of life-size marble korai, female figures dressed in long tunics, and a Corinthian capital with acanthus leaves creates a striking vignette.

This lovely Roman mosaic includes motifs such as interlaced Solomon’s knot, vines, pomegranates and crescent-shaped pelta shields.

One of the many beautiful Mudéjar-style niches with scalloped arches within the palace courtyard — and the equally dashing Wally. 

The residence was renovated in the 16th century by Luis Páez de Castillejo and stands on the grounds of what were once the gardens of Ybrahim Ben Nacer Alfaqui’s palace. In 1538, he commissioned the prominent Spanish architect Hernán Ruiz II to oversee the redevelopment of the main courtyard, Renaissance-style façade and sculpted railing of the main staircase. Ruiz II collaborated with his father, Hernán Ruiz the Elder, on the contentious construction of the Capilla Mayor within the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.

The silhouettes on the cloth added a modern art feel to this area of the courtyard.

Besides serving as the Páez de Castillejo residence, the building was used as a school at the end of the 19th century, known as the Polytechnic Academy. And in 1959, it became the Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba.

This impressive sculpture, known as the Thoracata of Córdoba and named after a type of Roman battle armor, depicts the massive torso of a hero — possibly Aeneas in his escape from Troy — wearing an intricate breastplate adorned with a pair of griffins.

Its exterior is similar to Ruiz II’s work on the Puerta del Puente, the principal gateway to the Roman Bridge in town, and, like the monument, was designed in the style of a triumphal arch. Among its notable features are a pair of porticos supported by Doric columns, with heroic figures positioned between them. Above the entablature, classical figures hold the family coat of arms. This imagery aimed to immortalize the Páez de Castillejo family as the living embodiment of discipline, loyalty and self-sacrifice to the people of Córdoba. 

This staircase features a sandstone railing designed by Hernán Ruiz II as well as a Roman mosaic depicting rearing horses drawing a chariot.

Be sure to go through that gorgeous gateway — it’s free and only takes a short while to stroll around the courtyard.

Initially, Wally and I stood there, gawking and uncertain about entering, but after we saw a man speaking to the guard stationed at the entrance, we decided to ask about the building. The guard informed us that it’s an extension of the modern archaeological museum and welcomed us to take a look around the interior courtyard. We walked around the first courtyard, which is dedicated to Roman archaeology, including mosaics and sculptures. However, unlike the adjacent institution, the artifacts on display here are not clearly marked.

Although it’s not open to the public, the exterior of Casa del Judío is worth pausing to take a look at.

Casa del Judío

Over the centuries, the enigmatic building located across from the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has been inextricably linked to the Castilian royal family and the generations of noble lineages connected to them, including the Sousa, Haro, Armenia and Cárdenas families.

Originally a Mudéjar palace, the stately manor is also called the Palacio del Duque de Medina Sidonia, or the Palace of the Duke of Medina Sidonia. For, it was within these walls that the bastard son of Juana de Sousa and Henry II of Castile, Enrique de Castilla y de Sousa, aka the first duke of Medina Sidonia, was born.

While eating at La Cavea, we spotted a cool couple in front of the Casa del Judío.

Although it’s not open to the public, you can still admire its ceramic-tiled roof, vibrant fuchsia bougainvilleas and square tower with a hipped roof enclosed by a latticework screen. To the left of the doorway, sheltered by greenery, is a bronze bust perched atop a marble plinth immortalizing the Roman poet Marcus Annaeus Lucanus (39-65 CE), better known in English literature as Lucan. 

Lucan was the nephew of the philosopher-statesman Lucius Annaeus Seneca (Seneca the Younger). He attracted the favorable attention of the Roman emperor Nero but conspired with Gaius Calpurnius Piso in a scheme to assassinate Nero and install Piso as his successor. Ultimately, its failure led to Lucan’s arrest and his subsequent suicide at the age of 26. 

Today the home is more commonly referred to by locals as la Casa del Judío, or in English, the Jew’s House, in reference to Elie J. Nahamias, a Judeo-Greek businessman and its most recent owner, who passed away in 1994. Nahamias was a descendant of the pre-exile Sephardic communities that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula and assembled an impressive library of printed books and manuscripts spanning six centuries of Jewish history. His collection is held by the Library of the Alliance Israélite Universelle based in Paris, France. And although the property is privately owned by his children, you can still admire its beautiful exterior.

A cute location and a good option if you want a snack or drink while visiting the archeological museum — but otherwise you can find better food elsewhere in town.

Café-Bar La Cavea

The center of the square is taken up with a casual resturant, with tables placed under the shade of trees (with white umbrellas an additional barrier from the heat when needed), all sitting amid broken remnants of Roman columns. When we stopped by, there was live music, with a performer taking up station by the fountain.

Beware choco! Although our Spanish friends say it’s actually good, this one was rubbery and flavorless. If you really want to cringe, do a search for “cuttlefish.”

While the café gets points for its setting, the food didn’t impress us — especially since we ordered calamari but where told they had choco instead, which is very close. Imagine our dismay when we discovered that it not only looked like and and was practically the size of a bleached, deflated football, it tasted like one, too. (Wally had also made the mistake of Googling what cuttlefish look like, which didn’t do him any favors). I was recovering from heat stroke, so he choked down as much choco as he could before giving up.

Detail of an intricately carved Mudejar relief featuring sebqa work, a decorative technique characterized by the repetition of geometric and vegetal forms.

Hidden Gems

Our wanderings through the historic Plaza de Jerónimo Páez offered glimpses into Córdoba’s rich history, through its ruins, artifacts and storied mansions. This square is no longer the bustling entertainment district it was when it was home to one of the largest theaters in the Roman Empire. But it still captivates visitors with its antique structures and inviting energy. Be sure to admire your surroundings before you head into the archeological museum, which is worth visiting. –Duke

Plaza de Jerónimo Páez

 

From Starter to Star: How Boulenc Became the Must-Visit Café in Oaxaca

Say bonjour to a taste of France at the hottest bakery and breakfast spot in Oaxaca City, Mexico.

The open-air dining area of Boulenc has a bohemian vibe and an eye-catching pendant.

For Wally and me, the best places are often the ones shared among friends. This is how we came to make a pilgrimage to Boulenc, after one of my coworkers stayed at the attached hotel for a couple of days and raved about the food and atmosphere. 

However, we didn’t realize how easy it is to pass by.  

“Let’s talk about the real reason you go to Boulenc: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious.

They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. ”

Somehow we found ourselves getting lost in Oaxaca de Juárez, Mexico more often than we typically have in other cities. Centro, the “downtown” of this laidback town, has a dense and irregular network of streets that more than occasionally change names. 

The unassuming façade of Boulenc is easy to pass by.

For this reason, we walked past the faded blue façade on Calle Porfirio Díaz a couple of times before realizing it was Boulenc. If the metal grille doors covered with flyers and a chalkboard that lead to the main dining patio happen to be closed, you’d never know you’ve reached one of the culinary hotspots of Oaxaca. 

However, we were determined — and by our third day in the enchanting city, we arrived early and soon found ourselves having breakfast there. Boulenc is attached to and part of the panadería, or bakery, that brought the artisanal bread movement to Oaxaca nearly a decade ago. 

Stop into the bakery next door for some delicious pastries and artisanal breads.

Juan Pablo: The Pope of Pastries

But let’s start at the beginning. The bakery’s mastermind and co-founder, Juan Pablo Hernández aka “Papa,” first took an interest in teaching himself how to bake bread, specifically sourdough, while working at a friend’s restaurant. 

No one knows for certain how Papa acquired his nickname. However, Boulenc’s co-owner Bernardo Dávila has a theory. They’ve been friends since their teens, and Juan Pablo has had the moniker since he was very young. Bernardo thinks that it could be because Juan Pablo attended a Catholic school, and at the time, the name of the sitting pope was John Paul II aka Juan Pablo. In Spanish, the word for Pope is Papa — not to be mistaken with Papá, which means Dad. 

Since his friend’s restaurant was only open for lunch and dinner, Juan Pablo asked if he could use the kitchen before it opened for the day to experiment and learn to make different types of non-traditional loaves, including the bread that started it all, sourdough. 

Great food, great service and a charming boho chic vibe to boot

Starting From Scratch: The Rise Of Boulenc

In January 2014, Juan Pablo invited his good friends Bernardo and Daniel López to Oaxaca de Juárez to convince them that it was the right time to open a bakery. He had been selling his artisan bread as a side hustle. He had created a logo and landed on Boulenc, which comes from the word for bread maker in the Picard dialect of France. 

“We came to Oaxaca right before the boom,” Bernardo recalls. “We knew that it had to be located in Centro, because that’s where all the restaurants and tourists are.” 

The trio found a suitable location that was formally an art gallery space. It was within their budget — and became the first incarnation of Boulenc. It didn’t have much, Bernardo says, but it did have three capable co-owners who were up for the challenge. 

Boulenc moved to a larger space and now has a boutique hotel attached (and some cool murals in the restaurant).

Their instincts had proven right. The bakery was quite popular and quickly found devotees. About two years later, one of their loyal customers asked if they might be interested in relocating to the colonial-era home across the street at Calle Porfirio Díaz 207.

“It’s a huge house,” Bernardo says. “When we went to check it out, there were just three people living there with three massive Neapolitan mastiff dogs. It was a little weird but it was also a good deal, so we said yes.” 

So, in 2016 Boulenc relocated and went from being a cafeteria counter limited to seven customers to a full-blown restaurant that can accommodate up to 25 people. 

Juan Pablo is known for his amazing pastries and breads.

A Passion for Baking and Local Ingredients 

Juan Pablo is known for his passion for baking and his use of fresh, regional ingredients. He sources his flour from a nearby mill in Nochixtlan, and fruits, nuts and other ingredients from small local producers. 

“I believe in using natural, healthy ingredients and making everything from scratch,” Juan Pablo told Plate magazine. “I’m very particular about the ingredients that I use, and I like to know where they come from.”

Boulenc has something for everyone, and serves breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a variety of beverages too long to list here. If you just want to grab something to go, there are European-style artisan breads, delectable pastries and coffee you can get at the bakery counter next door to the restaurant. 

The bar at Boulenc has a cool wire sculpture created by the owners’ friends at Máscaras de Alambre.  

A Fresh Start

Boulenc expanded the business by renovating and adding Boulenc Bed and Bread, a seven-room boutique hotel. 

Paulina García, another co-owner of Boulenc, moved from Saltillo, Mexico and began making jams and preserves in the kitchen above the restaurant patio before experimenting with fermented foods. Eventually she and Daniel opened Suculenta, a provisions store next door to the café. 

Both projects were completed and opened to the public in 2020. 

Despite their success, the founders of Boulenc are constantly trying out new recipes and techniques. 

“I’m always experimenting and trying new things,” Juan Pablo told the Oaxaca Times. “I’m constantly looking for ways to improve and refine our recipes, and to create new flavors that people will love.” 

Most recently, the founders organized and attended a five-day cheesemaking workshop with David Asher from the Black Sheep School of Cheesemaking at a ranch outside of Oaxaca de Juárez. And knowing them, they’ll find a way to introduce some incredible homemade cheeses in the future. 

Be sure to stop into Boulenc at least once during your time in Oaxaca — you won’t be disappointed!

Breakfast at Boulenc 

Over the seven days that Wally and I stayed in Oaxaca, we came to Boulenc twice, and that’s high praise since they had tough competition from our hotel’s in-house coffeeshop, Muss Café. 

Boulenc’s dining room proper is just beyond the doors I mentioned earlier. Inside is a tranquil, open-air courtyard with rustic wooden tables and chairs.  

The walls of the interior courtyard reminded me of another excellent restaurant we dined at in Fez, Morocco called the Ruined Garden, which occupied part of a former dar, or traditional Moroccan home. 

But let’s talk about the real reason you’re here: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious. They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. 

During our first visit, I ordered a velvety cold brew that was so good I didn’t need to add milk. Wally had an iced latte, and since he ordered a second one, I know that he enjoyed his drink, too. 

For breakfast, I got a stack of warm, fluffy pancakes made with rice, oat and almond flour served with bananas, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries and figs. This was accompanied by maple syrup served out of a copita, a small gourd cup, and housemade granola. Wally had the turkey ham and cheese croissant with a fried egg, chipotle mayonnaise and fresh tomato. Not traditional Mexican fare, but sometimes when you travel, you crave something continental. 

There’s not a lot of seating, and Boulenc is a popular spot, so be sure to get there early.

A word of advice if you’re interested in having breakfast at Boulenc: Arrive early to avoid waiting in line. It’s a popular spot, and Wally and I made sure to arrive just before 8:30 a.m, when the restaurant opened. We were able to get right in. Breakfast is served until 1 p.m.

The restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and attentive, which made for a wonderful experience. And while we certainly didn’t feel rushed, there was already a line forming when we left at 9:15. 

To one side of the restaurant is the bakery; on the other is Suculenta, an adorable provision shop.

After breakfast, we popped into Suculenta. You’ll find delicious jarred foods, cheeses, natural wines, organic fruits, vegetables and more. 

We bought mustard with capers, mango and pineapple marmalade, a cocoa peanut butter and jabón de cacao (an exfoliating soap with cacao nibs from Mamá Pacha Chocolate). 

Suculenta offers a selection of homemade condiments and other items, all charmingly packaged.

A variety of booze is on offer at the tienda, with a focus on natural wines.

If the store’s not open, you can also purchase a variety of their goods at the bakery counter. 

The verdict: You might have to keep your eyes peeled to find it, but be sure to add this to your Oaxaca itinerary. And should you have to join the queue, know that it’s worth waiting for. –Duke

Boulenc 

Calle Porfirio Díaz 207
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
México

 

Oaxaca Day Trip to Tlacochahuaya and Teotitlán del Valle

First stop: the Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, with its heavenly rustic painted interior. Then on to Teotitlán del Valle for lunch at Tlamanalli and gorgeous candles from Casa Viviana.

This amazing church in San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, with its rustic paintings, is en route to the natural wonder of Hierve el Agua.

To say that there’s a vast amount of things to do and see in Oaxaca is an understatement. So when Wally and I agreed to take a day trip to Hierve el Agua, a natural mineral spring where water collects in clifftop pools, I insisted that we make a few stops along the way. 

Driving is the best way to get around outside of town, and our friend Kevin, an expat living in Oaxaca de Juárez, kindly agreed to rent a car. 

While driving in Oaxaca, you might have to stop to let herds of cattle pass by.

You also might see stray dogs in flagrante delicto.

We set out early and met him and his friend David at Alamo Rent a Car, which was a short walk from Casa Antonieta, where we were staying in Centro. 

After a few minutes of waiting in line and filling out paperwork, we were ready to begin our adventure. It helped having a friend familiar with renting a vehicle in Oaxaca. 

The lowdown: It cost us $75 for the day, including insurance. 

Alamo Rent a Car
Mariano Matamoros 203 A
Ruta Independencia
Centro 68000 
Oaxaca de Juárez

You can’t miss the church — it dominates the small village of San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya.

Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya: A Rustic Church Painted With Symbolism 

Our first stop, about a half hour southeast from Centro Oaxaca, was the 16th century Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, aka the Templo de Tlacochahuaya, the centerpiece of the village of the same name. Try pronouncing it as “Tella-kocha-huh-why-uh” — a name that basically means “In the Swamp.” This is because the town is located in a valley surrounded by mountains, which makes it prone to flooding. 

The pueblo was founded by a Zapotec warrior by the name of Cochicahuala, which translates to “He Who Fights by Night.”

A sculpture of Jesus on a donkey, representing how he entered Jerusalem, sits in the back corner of the iglesia and is used during a Palm Sunday procession.

We parked the car and walked along the outer wall surrounding the church. I could hear the rhythmic beat and swirling melody of an unseen drummer and woodwind player, which to me sounded a bit like music from a Renaissance Faire. This set the mood for our visit — it was like stepping back in time to an older, slower-paced pre-modern world.   

The church’s main façade is made up of twin bell towers, pilasters (low-relief columns that project slightly from the surface), a split pediment and niches with sculptures of various saints. An image of Saint Jerónimo, or Saint Jerome, the church’s patron, is depicted above the central doorway, with God’s trumpet directed to his ear. 

All of the walls inside the Templo Tlacochahuaya are covered with red, blue and tan painted designs.

This fresco portrait depicts Saint Mark seated atop a winged lion (which is actually a symbol of Venice, Italy).

San Jerónimo’s heavenly hand-painted interiors are a mix of Baroque and indigenous pre-Hispanic imagery. These include plants and flowers that arc overhead like garden arbors. Tones of blue were achieved using indigo extracted from the leaves of the plant and pink blush tones from cochineal, an insect that feeds on nopal cactus and produces the color carmine red.

We had driven all the way here — we weren’t going to let a Do Not Enter sign prevent us from popping in.

Offerings of flowers fill one smaller altar inside the chruch.

The main altarpiece is a stunning example of Plateresque style, which comes from the Latin word platearius, which means “silversmith.” A gilded golden masterpiece, the retablo includes a painting depicting the moment when Christ’s body was removed from the cross to be taken away for burial, and is attributed to Juan de Arrué, one of the most renowned religious artists of Mexico’s colonial era. 

Wooden carvings, oil paintings, gilded frames and simplistic paintings create lovely vignettes.

A statue of the Virgin Mary with the Sacred Heart

We had only been inside for a short time before we were chased out by one of the church’s caretakers. The man spoke to us rapidly in Spanish that was too difficult for me to understand. Kevin mentioned that he thought the man may have been asking for a donation. In hindsight, it probably was due to the fact that there was a No Pasar sign posted at the entrance, which I had missed but Wally had pointedly ignored as we entered. 

Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya
Calle Unión 17
San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

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The Mendoza sisters cook indigenous Zapotec cuisine at their restaurant, Tlamanalli.

A Taste of Zapotec Tradition at Tlamanalli 

After visiting the church, we got back into the car. As we headed out of town, we saw two dogs having sex. We weren’t sure what kind of omen that was. At any rate, we were headed to our next stop, Teotitlán del Valle, 20 minutes away, and a short detour to the northeast. The artistic enclave is known for its high-quality woven goods — and candles (but more on that later). 

Duke, Kevin and Wally sit on the staircase in the center of Tlamanalli.

First up: a delicious lunch at Tlamanalli. The restaurant came highly recommended by our primary care physician, Ross Slotten, who shares our passion for travel. The restaurant has been serving patrons for over three decades. 

Using ancient culinary techniques and recipes that have been passed down through generations, Tlamanalli is co-owned and run by Maestra Abigail Mendoza Ruiz and her sisters, Marcelina, Rufina, Rosario and Adelina. The menu pays homage to indigenous Zapotec cuisine, a legacy that Mendoza Ruiz is recognized for internationally. The space, which is low-key and humble, feels like a large home, a deeply personal space that honors their familial bond. 

The menu is limited and written on a small chalkboard. Wally and I each ordered the quesadillas de calabaza (pumpkin quesadillas) and washed it down with a cold beer. 

The menu is written on a chalkboard —and note that you can only pay in cash.

Tlamanalli makes a great stop for lunch (and shopping) en route to Hierve el Agua.

A prominent feature of the establishment is its large open kitchen, which was designed by Mendoza Ruiz. The restaurant is off to one side of the central staircase, and the other side is a shop selling a wide variety of handmade items. We can never say no to artisan-made goods and ended up purchasing a plate with a mermaid sporting perky raised-relief breasts, a candle holder in the shape of an axolotl and a small winged ceramic devil ensnared by a serpent. 

The adorable Abigail Mendoza Ruiz, whipping up dishes with her sisters in the restaurant’s open kitchen.

The restaurant is spacious and offers ample seating. However, we weren’t visiting during peak season, and due to the popularity of the spot, you might want to plan ahead and make reservations. 

Open: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Reservations recommended 

Tlamanalli
39 Avenida Juárez
Teotitlán del Valle

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Gorgeous handmade candles at Casa Viviana

Waxing Poetic About a Master Candlemaker: Casa Viviana 

The real reason I wanted to visit Teotitlán was to meet the master candlemaker at Casa Viviana. 

The legendary artisan and her family live on a quiet unpaved road. The only indication that we were at the right spot was a sign hanging outside an unassuming door leading into the living quarters, workshop and store.

But when we arrived, the front door was locked. We knocked loudly — I really didn’t want to go away disappointed — and eventually the door opened and we were led into the central courtyard. 

Turns out we had interrupted a family celebration. But Doña Viviana Alávez, the matriarch of the family, graciously welcomed us into her shop. 

Viviana herself came out to help us, briefly leaving a family party. We love the local tradition of connecting two long braids with ribbons.

Viviana is recognized as one of the grand masters of Oaxacan folk art. Her family has been making handmade beeswax candles for over 300 years. These remarkable works of art are mostly used for traditional celebrations, including baptisms, engagements, weddings and funerals. 

Many of Viviana’s candles are bought for special occasions.

When we visited, Viviana didn’t have any big tapers left — the elaborate 4-foot-tall constructions I had seen in images and videos online. (Perhaps it was for the best — I’m not sure how we would have gotten one home.) 

She did, however, have a variety of small intricate flower candles. The candles are known as velas tradicionales de concha, for the delicate shell-like shapes of their ornamentation and are made from wax that is cut, shaped and dyed with natural colorants like cochineal (red), indigo (blue) and pericón (yellow), which are added to the beeswax. 

After some deliberation, we purchased a few of the small traditional velas to give as gifts as well as one shaped like a lily and one shaped like a cactus that came in a small ceramic pot for ourselves. The candles came to about $7.50 each — a small price to pay for these works of art. 

The maestra herself: Viviana holds two of her works.

We passed a loom with nopal cactus paddles above it (those white bits are actually cochineal bugs used to make red dye).

Open: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (but maybe call ahead)

Casa Viviana 
Absalo s/n
Teotitlán del Valle 

With our purchases safely packaged by Doña Viviana, we said our goodbyes and returned to the car. It was time for us to continue our trip to the popular tourist destination of Hierve el Agua. –Duke

West Rose: Ellicottville, New York’s Chicest Spot

The buzzy and Instagrammable West Rose restaurant in Eville is more than just a pretty face. Known for their wood-fired pizza, you should also check out the noodle shop upstairs.

West Rose, famous for its wood-fired pizzas and stylish aesthetic, has definitely taken Ellicottville’s food scene up a notch.

When Wally and I visit my family in the charming Western New York burg of Ellicottville, we always make it a point to wander Washington Street, the main thoroughfare of shops and restaurants. We’ve watched its evolution over the years and couldn’t help but notice the newish standout restaurant West Rose. 

Our visits tend to be short, so we weren’t able to check it out until this past fall. When we mentioned wanting to make sure we finally got to experience West Rose for ourselves, my sister suggested that Wally and I go for brunch. She had us at “breakfast pizza.”

“My sister suggested we go to West Rose for brunch.
She had us at “breakfast pizza.”
”

It was a Sunday and we had made reservations for 10 a.m., in hopes of beating the brunch rush. When we arrived, the front bar was already hopping with families.  

The front bar provides additional seating.

A (West) Rose by Any Other Name 

Something Wally and I noticed before even stepping foot into the restaurant was their strong brand identity. The subdued color palette uses dusty rose, gold, gray-green and yellow-ochre to great effect throughout. Upon entering the bright, airy space I admired the stylized brushed brass rose inlay in the white and gray marble tiled floor. 

A nice detail on the floor by the entrance

Wally suddenly thought he had a eureka moment: “West Rose! Westeros!” he exclaimed, alluding to the fictitious continent in the popular series Game of Thrones. 

However, we later learned from co-owner Caryn Dujanovich that it doesn’t have any connection to GoT, and is in fact a nod to where it’s located: Western New York, combined with her daughter's name, Louise Rose. And you’ve gotta admit, it’s got a nice ring to it. 

Three years into running the Grange Community Kitchen, a restaurant in nearby Hamburg, Brad Rowell and his business partner Caryn were approached by a couple of regular guests from Ellicottville who incidentally own the building that West Rose inhabits — and, as they say, the rest is history. 

“We had a great staff at the Grange and felt confident that we would be able to maintain the same level of quality there while offering some employees opportunities to advance in the company,” Caryn explains. “We were able to make our Grange sous chef, Anthony Petrilli, a partner in West Rose. He creates the menus and runs the kitchen.”

The interior is chic and clean — mostly white and light wood, with pops of the brand’s colors.

The Design: Getting Hygge With It 

The vision for the restaurant’s interior aesthetic was led by Caryn and embodies a cozy Scandinavian vibe, which suits the charming town of Ellicottville. Eville, as it’s affectionately known among locals, started as a ski town but has become an all-season destination with a variety of outdoor activities, including hiking, golf, horseback riding and Sky High Adventure Park, the largest zipline and aerial course in New York state.

Wally’s glad his in-laws live in such a charming, quirky town. (He’s says it reminds him of Stars Hollow from Gilmore Girls.)

Time-worn details like the exposed ceiling, wood floors and brick walls are complemented by industrial and natural textures. Elements such as brushed brass, cognac-colored leather, marble and white plaster, pair seamlessly with yam-colored velvet, terrazzo and beechwood. 

“We wanted the space to have a warm interior with a focus on texture,” Caryn says. “We are always mindful of making sure we won’t get sick of the design in five years!”

Hand-painted murals by Julie Molloy, art director at Block Club, the Buffalo-based agency behind the branding and identity of West Rose, enlivens the second floor space. 

We stopped in for brunch and had the breakfast pizza, topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup.

The Food: American Cuisine Elevated 

The menu changes regularly to reflect the freshest available ingredients from local producers and farms.  

“After considering seasonality, we then decide what dishes fit the vibe and theme of the restaurant,” Caryn tells us. 

You’ll find items like cheeseburgers, cioppino, kale Caesar salads and crispy chicken on the menu — but the wood-fired pizzas are the star of the show. 

The restaurant’s use of geometric shapes and a captivating color palette instantly drew our attention.

Wally and I  were seated across from the kitchen bar, which is perhaps the most special part of the restaurant, as it features a wood-fired oven imported from Naples, Italy. We had quite the show: I tried unsuccessfully to capture a chef expertly tossing and spinning pizza dough. 

We ordered and shared a savory breakfast pizza topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup — washed down with a couple of spicy Bloody Marys, of course. 

West Rose Upstairs has become a noodle shop and cocktail bar.

Using Their Noodles

Be sure to check out the second floor of the restaurant, which features a lounge and ramen bar. 

“The noodle bar concept was actually not what we originally had in mind for that space!” Caryn explains. “That area of the building was left unfinished when the restaurant was first built, and after two years, we decided it would be a good time to make use of the space.” 

The original plan was to offer an easy-to-execute menu of upscale bar food items, including fancy hot dogs, focaccia pizza and cheese plates. 

“Our chef and manager Mark decided to try something different and made a drunken noodle bowl to put on the menu,” Caryn continues. “This became by far our most popular item, and since Mark is a talented chef, who is able to create and execute a full noodle bar concept, we decided to go in a new direction!”

If noodles aren’t your thing, though, you can order snacks such as smoked spiced Marcona almonds, housemade focaccia or marinated olives. 

Both spaces are open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, and brunch on weekends. 

“The best part of running a restaurant is working with our team to create memorable experiences for our guests on a nightly basis,” Caryn says. 

If you’re in Eville, stop in and see for yourself. 

And be sure to check out their newest project, Wayland Brewing Company in Orchard Park. –Duke

West Rose

23 Washington Street
Ellicottville, New York 

 

An Insider’s Guide to Nantucket

Are you looking for things to do in Nantucket, Massachusetts? We cover the popular tourist attractions like the Whaling Museum and Brant Point Lighthouse as well as some of this charming island’s best-kept secrets — an icon of Mister Rogers, anyone? Also: the best Nantucket restaurants. 

For some strange reason, the Wampanoag Native Americans who lived on Nantucket gave it a name that alludes to it being a distant, desolate place. According to Britannica, it could even mean “sandy, sterile soil tempting no one”!

From stunning natural landscapes and beaches to must-see historical landmarks and quirky interior spaces, Nantucket, Massachusetts has it all. 

Here are my insider tips on the gems of Nantucket, an island in the Atlantic about 30 miles south of Cape Cod.

The island of Nantucket is 30 miles off the south coast of Cape Cod. It’s 14 miles long and three and a half miles wide.

Quick Tips for a Hassle-Free Nantucket Vacation

Keep in mind that this could be an expensive getaway: Things can be a bit pricey on the island.

One of the best ways to experience the Nantucket lifestyle is to rent a home during your stay.

Be sure to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Vacation rental homes are a great option to get a feel for how locals live.

Why bring your car over when you can reach everything on a bike?

Choose your mode of transport. You can get to the island either by plane or ferry. Once there, I’ve found that the most satisfactory way to tour this exquisite island is by bike. Of course, you can bring your car, but it’ll cost you about $400-$450 to do so. I suggest renting a bike at Nantucket Bike Shop. Cycling is a great way to see the sights and exercise at the same time. Besides, there are numerous bike trails on the island.

8 Top Attractions on Nantucket

Nantucket is home to many gems, including secluded beaches, secret gardens and hidden coves. Here are my favorite spots:

Greater Light, a historic home in Nantucket, has become a cultural center and wedding venue.

1. Greater Light

Gertrude and Hanna Monaghan, two artistic sisters, had come to Nantucket because of its growing creative community. In the summer of 1929, the Monaghan sisters were taking in the city's vibrant art scene when they stumbled upon a herd of cattle. They followed the herd until it took a U-turn at Howard Street and entered a 140-year-old barn. The siblings were fascinated with the dilapidated structure. They discovered it was owned by the town grocer, William Holland, and they convinced him to sell it to them. 

The siblings named the barn Greater Light after the Bible verse Genesis 1:16: “God made two great lights — the greater light to govern the day and the lesser light to govern the night.” They began turning the barn into a light-filled summer home and filled it with architectural artifacts and an eclectic mix of furnishings. If you want to experience the emotional vibe of the town, this is the place to be.

Insider’s Tip: Greater Light is accessible to the general public from May to October. It’s a 10-minute walk from the town center. In addition to being a popular wedding venue, numerous events, including book signings, concerts and lectures, are held on the renovated property. For the most current schedule, visit the Nantucket Historical Association website.

Greater Light
8 Howard Street

Could someone just make this man a saint already? The icon of Mister Rogers at St. Paul’s.

2. Mister Rogers Portrait at St. Paul’s Church

Some people would indeed consider Mister Rogers a saint; they’d find it fitting that he’s an idol at St. Paul’s Church. Before he became a beloved children’s television icon, Rogers studied to be a Presbyterian preacher. 

He spent the summers on Nantucket with his family, residing in the Madaket neighborhood on the island's west side. He and his family attended St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on Fair Street. 

A local artist, Julie Dunbar, painted a tribute to Mister Rogers’ legacy as an honored parishioner and a well-known friend to many. Pop into the church, identifiable by its beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows, to see this quirky icon bearing the words “Gentle, Kind + True.”

Insider’s Tip: While the church is open to visitors, check to see if it happens to be closed for exclusive services and activities.

St. Paul’s Epsicopal Church
20 Fair Street

The 46-foot-long skeleton of a sperm whale that died in 1998 hangs from the ceiling. Check out those chompers — a testament to the dangers of the whaling profession.

3. The Whaling Museum

Once known as the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket has a historic whaling district, and the museum is housed in a former whaling captain’s house. The Whaling Museum was established in 1929 and is among the oldest naval museums in the United States. 

The Whaling Museum in Nantucket

Its gallery has a collection of over 1,000 artifacts, including a sperm whale skeleton and a whaleboat. The museum also has a library and archives with over 500 books, maps and manuscripts. 

Insider’s Tip: The museum is open year-round and offers various educational schedules for adults and children. Hopefully you’ll get a guide as colorful as Emily Gilmore on The Gilmore Girls. And be sure to climb the spiral staircase (or take the elevator) up to Tucker’s Roofwalk for a panoramic view of the harbor — where the captain’s wife might once have kept an anxious lookout for the return of her husband’s ship.

The Whaling Museum
13 Broad Street

Brant Point Lighthouse is one of three to see in Nantucket. Look for the American flag on its side.

4. The Lighthouses 

Nantucket has three lovely lighthouses, all of which are well worth a visit:

Brant Point Lighthouse is near the city at the end of Easton Street and is the ideal location to view the sunset or sunrise. Its white stairway and American flag painted on its side make it easy to spot.

Great Point Lighthouse is in a wildlife reserve at the northern tip of the island.

Arriving at Great Point Lighthouse is slightly more complicated since the light is on sandy land. Hire a four-wheel drive if you don’t have one. The trip can be backbreaking, so bring a picnic lunch to eat and get reenergized. 

Sankaty Head Lighthouse stands 70 feet tall at the easternmost point on Nantucket, flashing its light every 7.5 seconds

With its distinctive white and sandy red stripe design, Sankaty Head Lighthouse could be the most outstanding lighthouse on Nantucket. The light is on Baxter Road, but on a clear day, you will see it miles away in every direction. 

Insider’s Tip: The lighthouses are open from  9 a.m. to 6 p.m. all year round. For Great Point, you’ll need an oversand vehicle permit. 

Pay homage to Maria Mitchell by stargazing at the Loines Observatory.

5. Maria Mitchell Association

Maria Mitchell was raised on the island and was a Quaker with a passion for astronomy. She channeled her passions into a spectacular career as America’s first female astronomer. She established the Maria Mitchell Association, Nantucket’s only scientific organization.

The association has plenty to see: an aquarium, the historic 1800s Quaker house Mitchell lived in and a natural science museum, in addition to a series of scientific speakers.

The Historic Mitchell House, where the first female U.S. astronomer lived.

Insider’s Tip: Nantucket has long been famous for its meticulous craft of scrimshaw and historic whaler voyages. But in the 19th century, Mitchell added a curious new chapter to the history of this small island. Honor her legacy by stargazing at the Loines Observatory. The Vestal Street Observatory is currently closed for conservation.

Maria Mitchell Association
33 Washington Street

The Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

6. Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

The charitable Egan Maritime Institute runs this museum, which shares the stories of local shipwrecks and the brave rescuers who put their lives in danger to save drowning seamen. 

The building, constructed in 1968, features the design of the traditional stations run by the U.S. Life-Saving Service. It’s the earliest museum devoted to maritime lifesaving and safety history. Its hours of operation are Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. The entrance fee includes a tour guide.

Insider’s Tip: Keep in mind that Nantucket is a seasonal destination, and many places, like this museum, are only open part of the year, closing in the fall and winter. A 15-minute journey down Polpis Road will take you to the museum, which is three miles east of town. But you can also catch the Shipwreck Shuttle from the visitors bureau at 25 Federal Street every half hour starting at 9:30 a.m., returning from the museum on the hour, with the last ride at 5 p.m.), Monday through Saturday from May 30 through October 10.

Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum
158 Polpis Road

You have to get on the water during every stay in Nantucket.

7. The Harbor

When in Nantucket…

Sailing around the harbor is the perfect afternoon pastime and can take you into the evening to enjoy the most splendid sunset in Nantucket. You’ve got plenty of choices: tugboats, larger whale-viewing cruises and swanky schooners. Many offer two-hour rides that head around Brant Point Lighthouse. 

Insider’s Tip: Shearwater Excursions offers the Ice Cream Cruise, where you can enjoy not only a scenic tour but also its namesake treat. But my favorite thing to do is rent a tugboat for the late afternoon, where you can bring cocktails to sip and have some snacks (perhaps a charcuterie board). 

Catch your dinner on a fishing charter into the Atlantic Ocean.

8. Fishing Zones

Nantucket has a large population of game fish, and the best time to go fishing is from May to November. A suitable spot is the south bay between Nantucket Harbor and Great Point. But you can also try your luck near the Sankaty Head Lighthouse. Additionally, the harbor offers dedicated charters for catching large game fish like mahi mahi, marlin and tuna.  

Insider’s Tip: Waves can be intense — even deadly — so make sure you find a pro and ask for the safest times to get on the water. 

Straight Wharf Restaurant

Where to Eat in Nantucket

From fresh seafood to classic New England fare, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on this beautiful island.

For seafood lovers, the Straight Wharf Restaurant is a must-visit. The spot is well known for its fresh, local seafood and harbor views.

Head to the Wauwinet hotel to dine at Topper’s.

Head to Topper’s at the Wauwinet hotel to taste classic New England cuisine. This elegant restaurant is known for its delicious lobster dishes, as well as its stunning views of the ocean. 

Get your New England staples and some good beer at the Nantucket Tap Room at the historic Jared Coffin House.

The Nantucket Tap Room at the Jared Coffin House is an excellent alternative for a more casual dining experience. This historic inn’s tavern offers a cozy atmosphere and classic dishes like clam chowder and fish and chips.

Other good restaurants to try include:

• Millie’s: Seafood

• Cisco Brewers: Great outdoor area for local beers and food trucks

• Cru: Rosé and oysters 

• Provisions: Sandwiches (try the Turkey Terrific or BLT)

• The Downyflake: Doughnuts

• The Juice Bar: Ice cream

Heads up: The popular spot Black-Eyed Susan’s seems to be closed for good. But no matter your mood, you’ll uncover plenty of places to feast in Nantucket.

Smaller than Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket offers a quaint New England getaway.

The Ideal New England Getaway

Nantucket is a small island with a big reputation. It’s a popular summer tourist destination, thanks to its picturesque hangout spots and plenty of outdoor activities. Moreover, the locals are warm and welcoming, guaranteeing you have a great time. As far as I’m concerned, the island is the perfect New England getaway. –Christine Cooper

48 Hours in Cairns, Australia’s Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef

In addition to the marine wonderland of the Great Barrier Reef, there’s so much to do in the Cairns area — including the Kuranda Scenic Railway, Trinity Inlet and the Cairns Museum — that you’ll have to plan your visit, especially if you’ve only got a couple of days.

The Great Barrier Reef stretches over an area of 134,634 square miles (344,400 square kilometers) — not surprisingly, it’s the largest coral reef in the world.

Considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, is home to an incredible diversity of marine life, and a visit to the reef is an unforgettable experience. 

The best jumping-off point to see the largest coral reef on the planet is the city of Cairns, on Australia’s northeast coast. 

“With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. ”

But as impressive as the Great Barrier Reef is, it’s not the only thing to see in the area. Here’s a guide to making the most of a couple of days in Cairns. 

Snorkeling or diving the reef is an experience you’ll never forget.

Start with a snorkeling or diving tour of the Great Barrier Reef. 

If you only have 48 hours in Cairns, be sure to book a snorkeling or diving tour of the reef. The Great Barrier Reef is home to an astonishing variety of marine life, and there’s no better way to see it than up close.

A snorkeling or diving tour will give you the chance to explore the reef at your own pace, but a qualified guide can point out the best bits. With its clear waters and abundance of marine life, the Great Barrier Reef is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

If you want to be close to the water but not in it, take a glass-bottom boat tour of the reef instead.

See the reef on a glass-bottom boat tour — or a helicopter ride. 

If snorkeling or diving isn’t your thing, a glass-bottom boat tour is a must if you’re looking for an unforgettable way to experience the Great Barrier Reef. You’ll have the chance to see the reef up close — while staying dry — as you glide over the colorful coral and fish. Be sure to keep an eye out for turtles, manta rays and sharks. If you’re short on time, plenty of tour operators offer half-day or even three-hour tours.

And there’s nothing quite like a helicopter ride for a bird’s-eye view of the reef. You’ll marvel at the size and scale of the reef as you soar over its vast expanse. Helicopter rides typically last around 30 minutes, so they’re perfect if you’re pressed for time. Just be sure to book in advance, as spaces fill up fast.

The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway takes you through lush greenery, where you can see rainbow lorikeets, koalas and cassowaries.

Admire the flora and fauna along the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Rainforest Cableway. 

There’s no time to waste when you only have 48 hours in Cairns. Make the most of your limited time by taking a walk through the rainforest via the Kuranda Scenic Railway. This popular tourist operation offers breathtaking views of the lush rainforest canopy, as well as opportunities to spot some of the area’s wildlife, including koalas, rainbow lorikeets (parrots as colorful as their name suggests) and even a large flightless bird called the cassowary (if you stop off at Birdworld).

The railway is also a great way to learn about the local Aboriginal culture, with guided tours available in several languages. 

And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can even take a dip in one of the many natural swimming holes along the way.

Go for a swim in the Esplanade Lagoon, then explore the CBD, the central business district.

Spend the day exploring Cairns CBD. 

To explore the city, start with a visit to the Esplanade Lagoon, where you can take a dip or simply relax on the beach. Then, head to the Cairns Museum to learn about the city’s history and culture.

Visit a local history museum, the botanic gardens or zipline over a crocodile at Cairns Zoom and Wildlife Dome.

Finish up your day with a walk through the botanic gardens, where you can admire the diverse plant life of Tropical North Queensland. With so much to see and do, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience when you spend a day exploring Cairns CBD.

The patio at the hip Chambers café, known for its brunch and cocktail bar.

Enjoy a meal at one of the city’s many restaurants or food trucks. 

There’s no denying that food is an important part of the travel experience. Trying new dishes and sampling local specialties is a great way to get a taste for the culture of a place. If you’re short on time but big on appetite, make sure to check out some of Cairns’ best restaurants. 

From casual cafés like Caffiend and the Chambers to fine dining establishments like the French restaurant C’est Bon and Tamarind at the Reef Hotel Casino, there’s something to suit every taste and budget.

For a quick bite, head to one of the city’s many food trucks or grab a slice of pizza from a pizzeria. 

Whether you’re looking for a quick snack or a gourmet meal, Cairns’ restaurants won’t disappoint.

A gorgeous sunrise over Trinity Inlet

Head to the lookout for views of Cairns and Trinity Inlet. 

If you find yourself in Port Douglas (about an hour up the coast), make sure you stop at the Trinity Bay Lookout. It’s just a short walk from Four Mile Beach, and from here you'll be able to see the city skyline, including the iconic palm trees that line the waterfront.

Climb to the top of the Trinity Bay Lookout for views of Four Mile Beach.

On a clear day, you may even be able to see as far as Double Island off the coast. The lookout also offers stunning views of Mount Whitfield, which is worth hiking to the top of for another vantage point.

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You might not find Nemo (or any other clownfish) with only two days in Cairns. But plan your itinerary — and make sure you include the Great Barrier Reef.

So there you have it: 48 hours in Cairns doesn’t have to be rushed. By following these tips, you can make sure you have a truly memorable experience, even when time is limited. –Charlie Btallent

 

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A Tour of the Quinta Real Oaxaca Hotel and Its Gorgeous Gardens

Learn this UNESCO site’s colorful past, from convent to cinema, from prison to palace — and even a Masonic lodge still in use — and explore its beautiful grounds. 

A tour of the grounds of the Quinta Real Oaxaca hotel yields unexpected delights, like this glimpse of a lush interior courtyard.

It’s undeniably one of the most popular hotels in Oaxaca, and even though we weren’t staying there, we read that we simply had to have a drink there and admire the gardens, which rivaled those at the Alhambra in Spain. (They’re perfectly delightful, but that’s a bit of a stretch.)

Duke and I popped into the Quinta Real on our last day in Oaxaca. We wanted to get a drink and enjoy it in one of their courtyards — but we couldn’t find an actual bar at the hotel; you have to sit at a table to get served. Not sure if we’d be able to get a drink and wander around, we opted to forgo the booze and just wander the grounds on our own. 

“In the late 1800s, a buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use as a Masonic lodge — which still operates to this day!”

One of the highlights of an exploration of the grounds is the stone gazebo and fountain in the Los Lavaderos Courtyard, so named because it was once used for laundry by the nuns.

Repurposed a Seemingly Endless Number of Times

The hotel began as property of the Roman Catholic Church, much like the Ex Convento de San Pablo, about another historic building in town, now home to the Casa Antonieta boutique hotel, the Textile Museum of Oaxaca and the Centro Cultural de San Pablo. 

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577. The nuns lived a life of seclusion and quiet meditation there for centuries — until 1859, when they were booted out by Benito Juárez’s Reform laws, which nationalized the church and seized its property. 

“The monument would then begin a long history of deterioration, monstrous construction work and atrocious transformations,” reads a sign out front. 

You can see part of the original convent exterior in the gorgeous pool area.

Not a bad spot to catch some rays

The ex-convent was put to a crazy amount of uses by the state government. In addition to a stint as a prison from 1862 to 1958, the structure also housed, at varying times, the civil registry office, the weights and measures office, the state printing press, a police precinct, the craftsman’s society, criminal courts, a night school and the Abraham Castellano Primary School from 1956 to 1962. 

What was the convent’s atrium even became the municipal palace for almost a century, from 1873 to 1970. 

Cantera stone, used in the façade of the convent, which is now a hotel, has a distinctive greenish color.

The Quinta Real is succulent — in more ways than one.

The sprawling grounds have undergone numerous and varied uses over the years, including a police precinct, printing press, school — even a municipal palace!

The Quinta Real is housed in the former Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena, which was built in 1577.

The Quinta Real property takes up an entire city block and has lots of nooks to discover. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In the late 1800s, a private buyer purchased the northeast section of the property to use it as a Masonic lodge — which still operates there to this day!

The onsite chapel has its own storied past: It was first converted to a municipal warehouse, but in the 1930s it became an art school, and then a movie theater from 1950 to 1960. Then, in 1972 the chapel was finally restored, along with the rest of the estate, when it was reconceptualized as a hotel. 

Paintings and statues can be found throughout the hotel.

Be sure to check out the faded fresco on the wall of the gift shop.

The old chapel was empty when we explored the hotel but would make a good event space. It was once used as a cinema.

The Quinta Real has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s worth a visit, even if you’re not staying there, to wander and admire the grounds. Try to figure out a way to have a drink in the gardens — and don’t set your bag down (thankfully empty of everything but the chocolate bars we bought at Mamá Pacha) to take pictures and leave it like I did. –Wally

Orange trees give the restaurant, Los Naranjos, its name.

This dining area, Los Cántaros, has an interesting art installation. Those ceramic containers, cántaros, were unearthed during the renovation and were once used to as pitchers or to hold oil.

Quinta Real Oaxaca

5 de Mayo 300
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

 

Sampling the 7 Moles of Oaxaca

Holy mole! The restaurant Hierba Dulce focuses on plant-based fare and takes traditional Oaxacan cuisine to the next level. 

Most Americans are only familiar with mole negro and don’t even realize there are many varieties of the Mexican sauce.

Mole (pronounced moh-lay) is one of Mexico’s most complex and versatile sauces. And nowhere is that more in evidence than in the southcentral state of Oaxaca, famous for seven distinct types of moles. 

If you’ve ever tried mole in the U.S., chances are it’s mole negro (black mole). This velvety, umber-colored sauce is a savory-sweet combination of dark chocolate, spicy chiles, nuts and spices usually served over enchiladas. Don’t get me wrong — I love me some chocolate, but mole can be so much more than that. There are numerous variations containing dozens of different ingredients, including chiles, garlic, spices, nuts and pepitas (pumpkin seeds), pulverized to a paste in a molcajete (a volcanic stone mortar and pestle). Tomatoes, tomatillos and water or broth are sometimes added, and many are slow-cooked to allow flavors to meld.

“ Don’t get me wrong — I love me some chocolate, but mole can be so much more than that. ”

The lightwood tables and modern chairs (not to mention that wall of cacti) take the Oaxacan restaurant Hierba Dulce up a notch.

Hierba Dulce’s Local, Organic Ingredients 

On our trip to Oaxaca, we knew we wanted to try the seven different types of mole, and we had heard that there was no better place to do so than at Hierba Dulce. The women-run establishment opened in 2017 and was the first in Oaxaca de Juárez to feature an entirely plant-based menu. Using traditional cooking and fermentation methods as a foundation, the restaurant began as a conversation among the founders of its sister project, Pochote Press. Their goal was to create a welcoming, inclusive culinary concept where they could offer accessible, nutritious, unprocessed fare to the local community. 

As Hierba Dulce began to flourish, Pochote Press moved out of the space. The restaurant uses organic ingredients, working strictly with small local farmers, and its dishes are made without processed oils, refined sugars or animal byproducts like asiento (lard). This setup helps provide a lifeline for these producers, who value genetic diversity over mass production. 

The restaurant is run by chef Mayora Georgina Cruz, and is tucked away in the open-air walled courtyard of a colonial-era house not far from the city center of Oaxaca de Juárez. Its name is the Spanish version of tzopelic xihuitl in Náhuatl, an indigenous language of the region, translating to  “sweet herb.”

This was the first place we dined at during our stay in Oaxaca. We arrived around 6 and were seated shortly after. The centerpiece of the courtyard was a tiled fountain with an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe. This was adorned with strands of brightly colored woven palm leaf garland anchored by a straw flower arrangement that put me in a festive mood. 

The gorgeous fountain at Hierba Dulce, with the Virgin of Guadalupe, colorful garlands and bright straw flowers

Hierba Dulce is women-run and focuses on unprocessed, local ingredients. The dinnerware, with its distinctive blackened spots, are from the nearby village of Santa María Atzompa and were handmade by Maestra Josefina Zárate.

To start, we each ordered Oaxaqueños, a cocktail made with the restaurant’s tepache and cachaça, a distilled spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice. At first, neither one of us thought it was that strong — until we finished it. They packed a surprisingly strong punch, and neither of us needed to order a second. 

The Oaxaqueño, a cocktail made with tepache and cachaça, packed a surprising punch.

Wally and I opted for the mole tasting for two, which featured the seven most famous types of Oaxacan moles. 

Dinner kicked off with a salsa verde and a roja.

As an appetizer, we were served a complimentary pair of salsas: a green one made with miltomate (tomatillo), serranos, avocado and cilantro, and a red one with smoked pasilla, morita and chile de árbol with miltomate. These were accompanied by housemade tostadas, crisp corn tortillas made with heirloom maíz, on a comal (a round, flat griddle). 

Try a sampler of the seven moles of Oaxaca and rate them as you go. Our fave was rojo, while verde came in last.

The 7 Moles of Oaxaca

Mole comes from the Nahuatl word molli, or “sauce.” This traditional, multilayered sauce typically begins with a base of dried or fresh chiles, seasoned with wild endemic herbs, vegetables and other ingredients. Cooking times vary by type; some come together quickly and can take as little as a few hours, while others take days to prepare. 

No two moles are alike. Recipes vary from region to region, from village to village, from family to family. All are slightly different, depending on who’s making it. The ones served at Hierba Dulce are Cruz’s recipes, adapted and tweaked into versions made without oil or refined sugar. 

We found that tortillas weren’t the best vehicle to serve with these moles — the sauce oozed out and made for a messy meal.

1. Amarillo / Yellow

Yellow chilhuacle, costeño and smoky-sweet guajillo chiles, spices, hoja santa (literally “sacred leaf” — a heart-shaped leaf with a slight peppery taste) combine with white beans to make an ochre-colored, mildly spicy mole. 

2. Verde / Green

This was the only mole of the seven that didn’t contain dried chilis (perhaps that’s why it was our least favorite). Its bright green color comes from miltomates, serranos, cilantro and epazote (a pungent herb with a flavor between tarragon and anise). 

3. Almendrado / Almond

This mole is made with guajillo and ancho chiles, heirloom tomatoes, almonds, oregano and cinnamon. 

4. Chichilo 

Intense and smoky, with pasila, mulato, guajillo and black chilhuacle chiles, garlic and onion, the addition of dry-roasted avocado leaves lend a subtle licorice flavor. 

5. Estufado

Olives, almonds, miltomates, tomatoes, onion, capers, perejil (parsley) and cinnamon combine in this version.  

6. Rojo / Red

This thick, brick-red sauce was the spiciest of the seven moles and used ancho chiles, pasilla chiles, garlic, onion, tomatoes, peanuts and dark chocolate. It was our fave. 

7. Negro / Black

The most labor-intensive of the moles, this one contains chilhuacle negro, mulato, pasilla, ancho, guajillo and chipotle chiles, plantains, and dark, bitter chocolate. The charred seeds of the chilhuacle negro give this mole its signature depth of color and flavor. Wally thought it was so sweet compared to the others, it practically worked as a dessert course. 

Most moles are made with chiles, herbs, tomatoes — and some even have chocolate.

Getting Sauced 

Moles are often served over rice, chicken or pork. Ours came with corn tortillas that were made moments before on a nearby comal in the corner of the courtyard. Most of the sauces were soupy, resulting in a messy dining experience. Perhaps we should have tried the mole sampling that comes with mushrooms. And after trying a few different varieties, it was difficult to really appreciate the subtle differences between the seven — though maybe that was because of the buzz we felt from the Oaxaqueños. 

Either way, we admired how Cruz has reinterpreted traditional ingredients in a sophisticated way. –Duke

Wally and Duke pose by the back wall of the Hierbe Dulce courtyard, which is lined with cacti known as Mexican fence posts.

Hierba Dulce

Calle Porfirio Díaz 311
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oxaca
Mexico

 

Continue Your Culinary Tour of Mexico

An Enchanted Evening at Alfonsina Restaurant in Oaxaca

World-class dishes meet home cooking at chef Jorge León’s destination restaurant in San Juan Bautista la Raya, one of the best dining experiences in Mexico.

The tranquil setting in a pueblo half an hour outside of Oaxaca Centro puts the spotlight on the meal. You can see Elvia, the chef’s mother, in the background, making tortillas.

The taxi had been driving for about half an hour. As we rumbled along a dirt road in a small village outside of Oaxaca de Juárez, Wally and I wondered where the heck we were going.

Located in San Juan Bautista la Raya, Alfonsina is the culinary masterpiece of chef Jorge León. A coworker who had visited Oaxaca last year tipped me off to the restaurant and insisted we go. For those of you reading this who like to skip to the end, Wally and I were not disappointed. To me, the prospect of having a meal in the backyard of a local chef sounded magical — and, indeed, it was. 

“Like a beautifully choreographed dance, guests were served simultaneously.”

There was time before dinner for Wally and Duke to wander the grounds, chat with other guests and have their picture taken.

Our experience began the minute we were dropped off outside, passed through a doorway and entered the yard. We were ushered in and seated at a rustic two-top wooden table. Surrounded by foliage and cool brick walls, it felt more like a secret garden than a restaurant. It’s an inviting outdoor space that encourages you to stay a while, to hang out in the courtyard and take pictures. 

An incense burner in the yard

Nopale cactus, a popular ingredient

León grew up in San Juan Bautista la Raya. He began his career at Casa Oaxaca and honed his skills under chef Enrique Olivera in Mexico City, who hired him to work at the legendary Pujol. Returning home with a clear vision and the money he had saved over the last decade, León created Alfonsina. He purchased a plot of land next to his mother Elvia’s house and built the space from scratch with help from his relatives. 

It’s a family affair in the truest sense. Elvia runs breakfast and lunch, and León’s brothers and cousins assist with service and food preparation. We noticed a couple bussers wearing black T-shirts that had “Familia” printed on them.

A traditional outdoor brick oven used at Alfonsina

The evening we dined at the restaurant, it was filled with a mix of locals and travelers, who made the pilgrimage like us. There were four tables total when we were there, and the prix-fixe service starts at the same time, 7 p.m., with every course coming out simultaneously for the entire restaurant.

While taking photos before our meal, we struck up a conversation with a couple who were also visiting from Chicago and a gay couple from San Francisco. They were all dining with their family at a nearby table. 

A small patio by the men’s room. The location is part of the home where chef Jorge León grew up.

A Meal Worth Traveling For

Alfonsina is León’s tribute to traditional Oaxacan cuisine. Our inventive meal consisted of five courses and featured seasonal local produce. Although the menu is predominantly plant-based, ours included seafood. 

Our server asked what we would like to drink other than water and suggested an artisanal IPA made in Oaxaca by a women’s collective. I never thought I’d find myself saying yes to — and actually enjoying — an IPA, as the ones I’ve tried in the U.S. are aggressively hops-forward and bitter. However, the ones I’ve had in Mexico City and Oaxaca taste more like a lager. 

The prix-fixe meal started off with a delicious salad and shrimp dish.

First Course

To start, we were served camarones al chepil, a salad of quintonil (leaves of the amaranth plant) and cuatomate (small tomatoes), with a dressing made with capulin (a seasonal fruit about the size of a cherry with a mellow sweetness). Chepil, also known as chipilín, is an edible leaf with a subtle flavor somewhere between spinach and watercress. The smooth texture of the dressing alongside the gently poached shrimp melded beautifully with the acidity of the tiny tomatoes. 

In between courses, we were served small clay cups of pulque. The pre-Hispanic fermented beverage is made from aguamiel, the sap of the agave, the same plant that’s used to make tequila and mezcal. It has a tang not unlike kombucha. We also were offered shots of mezcal espadín, which was earthy, vegetal and not overly smoky. 

Second Course

Next up: tacos de pulpo, or octopus tacos, in a sweet and sour chipotle marinade with avocado criollo (a variety whose skin you can eat) and purslane (an herbaceous edible succulent). The Creole corn used for their tortillas is sourced from the village, milled onsite and cooked on a comal, a large flat circular griddle made from clay. I found myself savoring the surprise of how its flavor evolved atop slightly smoky seared octopus. 

Below the squash blossoms and crispy tortilla was chileate, a parsley soup.

Third Course 

Chileate, a thickened parsley soup, came next. It was a simple but hearty soup made of parsley, roasted tamala squash and mahi-mahi, topped with squash blossoms. It came served with a crisp tortilla that was fun to break and dip into the velvety broth. 

Fourth Course

The main course was perfectly prepared mahi-mahi served atop an ochre-colored mole made with hoja santa (leaves that are popular in the region), estrella de nopal (an edible cactus) and green beans. I was sold from the first bite, which yielded moist, lightly flaky mahi-mahi. 

A bright, palette-cleansing dessert: nieve de garrafa de coco

Dessert

The meal ended with nieve de garrafa de coco, accompanied by a steaming mug of café de olla (a traditional cinnamon-flavored coffee). Nieve, a water-based frozen dessert, is a kind of sorbet native to Mexico. Its texture is lighter than traditional ice cream and has a creamy consistency, even though there’s no dairy in it. This nieve was studded with shaved coconut and sections of charred sweet pineapple, topped with walnut pieces. 

The idyllic setting at Alfonsina in the quiet pueblo of San Juan Bautista la Raya made Wally smile.

The setting sun lights up Duke’s face (or was it the experience of dining at Alfonsina?).

A Special Evening

One of the best parts of our experience was the staff. Like a beautifully choreographed dance, guests were served simultaneously. No one was left waiting to eat. The servers were eager to explain each dish in detail, and at the end of the meal, one of them came around with a plate loaded with the ingredients used in the meal, pointing out each and informing us what course it was included in. It was a charming tradition, and one we wish more restaurants would take up.

After dinner, our server brought out a plate of the local, seasonal ingredients used in the evening’s meal, explaining what each was.

Alfonsina reveals the magic that prevails when tradition is honored amidst experimentation; León has created a culinary environment that reflects both his skill and experience in leading global restaurants as well as his mother’s home cooking that has served the local community for many years before the restaurant was formally established.

Cacti, flowers and other plants in the yard at the restaurant

It was an unforgettable evening that felt like an intimate gathering of friends coming together to enjoy a world-class meal. Each dish brought a wonderful surprise and we were happy to have dined here. This hidden gem is not about one individual thing — it’s the entire experience, centered on the food that reflects the ever-changing nature of the best seasonal ingredients and the chef who cooks from his heart. –Duke

To book a reservation at Alfonsina, click here. 

The space is simple, relaxing — like eating in a friend’s yard.

Alfonsina

Calle García Vigil 183
San Juan Bautista la Raya
Oaxaca
México

 

Casa Antonieta: A Tranquil Oasis in Oaxaca Centro

This boutique hotel in Oaxaca has all the comforts of home — plus a spectacular rooftop terrace.

The open-air lobby of the hotel. The second floor is currently being built out.

Over time, as I do research on upcoming trips, I’ve come to learn what Wally and I appreciate the most when staying abroad. Or should I say what I like — and Wally ends up being pleasantly surprised by? In the end, a lot depends on location, budget, how you travel, what kind of comfort you’re looking for and, of course, style. I’ve got one main rule: Find a place within walking distance of sites and shops that delivers a well-rounded travel experience versus a mere hotel stay. In Oaxaca, that was Casa Antonieta. 

Duke on the terrazo — our favorite spot at Casa Antonieta

Wally enjoying a glass of wine at the end of another fun day

Casa Antonieta: To Grandmother’s House We Go

When Wally and I arrived at check-in, we were warmly greeted by concierge Ana Jiménez. Our luggage was whisked away and taken to our room, and we were served refreshing glasses of rosemary- and lemon-infused water and freshly baked cookies.

As I took in the tranquil interior courtyard with its gracefully arched and symmetrical arcades, it reminded me of the ones we had seen in traditional Moroccan riads. Clearly the Spanish conquistadors brought this design to Mexico, influenced by the Moors, as the design is well-suited to hot weather, promoting natural ventilation and shade from harsh sunlight.

“ A large part of Casa Antonieta’s appeal is that it’s close to the action but far enough away from the bars to get a good night’s sleep.”

Casa Antonieta is located on a quiet stretch of Calle de Miguel Hidalgo, a short distance from the Zócalo, the historic center and public square of Oaxaca city. Tucked between the Fundación Alfredo Harp Helú and the Oaxaca Textile Museum, Casa Antonieta started life as a convent but became a mansion in the 1890s. Its name comes from Edificio María Antonieta, after the hotel’s founder Helwig George’s grandmother. A large part of its appeal to me was that it’s close enough to the action but far enough away from the bars and club scene to get a good night’s sleep.

The hotel is built around a central courtyard, much like a Moroccan riad.

In fact, Casa Antonieta is the perfect accommodation for exploring Oaxaca city’s historic quarter, restaurants, bars and shops. As you wander the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca Centro, you will undoubtedly find a variety of brightly colored Mexican Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau and more than a few neglected French and Spanish Colonial relics — one of which had a prominent banner announcing, “No Se Vende,” meaning the building is not for sale, in case you were wondering.

Our bedroom at Casa Antonieta — the woven rattan headboard evoked shelter and seclusion.

A Solid Foundation as a Convent

The boutique hotel was conceived by George, who worked with Mexico City architect Mariana Ruiz of At-te to refurbish and reimagine the property. Embracing its historic roots, the hotel has stayed true to the character of the original building, with the added bonus of modern amenities. George came up with the idea for Casa Antonieta in 2017, and the hotel opened its doors to welcome guests in April 2018. It stands on the site of the former 17th century Franciscan Convent of San Pablo. In 1911 it became a private single-story residence, and a short time after, a second floor was added.

George’s grandfather purchased the building in the ’70s, adding two additional floors and giving the building its name. 

“When he passed away, my mother, aunt and uncle each inherited a floor,” George told us. 

The hotel currently offers nine rooms, with plans to add seven more on the second floor. Ruiz collaborated with Mexican artisans, using local and natural materials where possible, such as the light-colored macuil wood and rattan. Walls are covered in an earthy hand-applied ecru-colored clay plaster, exuding a warm, rustic feel. 

Room 15 was our home away from home.

The quaint kitchenette with its macuil wood

We stayed in room 15, which was located on the third floor. Our elegant room featured terrazzo floors, custom-built furniture and doors made with tropical hardwood indigenous to Southern Mexico. Lighting was designed by Taller Lu’um, a studio that collaborates with Mexican artisans. I also admired a wool rug made by Zapotec weavers in the nearby village of Teotitlán del Valle and conceived by Oaxaca-based studio Rrres.

The galley-style kitchen had open shelving with a potted succulent in a green glazed pot from Santa María Atzompa, and a few utilitarian barro rojo (red clay pottery) vessels from San Marcos Tlapazola. Both villages are close by and would make a good day trip. 

The spa-like bathroom featured a floating countertop and shelf of macuil wood and a rain shower edged by river rock drainage. 

Start your day on the terrace and end it there, as well, when the space becomes the bar Amá.

Golden hour on the rooftop is a good spot to take a new Tinder profile pic.

In the lobby, you can get lost in your thoughts, peruse the hotel’s collection of art and photography books, or simply enjoy sipping a latte from Muss.

Elsewhere, greenery further enhances the property’s tranquil atmosphere and creates a visually striking space. 

Order breakfast at Muss…

…and enjoy it on the terrace.

Before heading out for the day, we enjoyed breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace with views of the city and surrounding mountains. At night the rooftop transforms into Amá, which serves up expertly crafted cocktails and light bites. Wally and I recommend the roasted cauliflower steak with smoked pasilla chile rub. Plus, there’s a shop within the bar where you can purchase a selection of artisanal objects from the surrounding villages without having to leave the city.

Get a cold brew to go.

The popular coffeeshop that’s part of the hotel

the Buzz-worthy Muss Café

The hotel also contains a cool little café named Muss, which can be accessed from the lobby. The name of this “younger sibling” of Casa Antonieta comes from an adjective that means something like “tousled” or “organized mess” — which is exactly how we feel until we have our morning caffeine fix. Popular with locals and guests of the hotel alike, Muss offers great coffee and food. Their cold brew was one of the best that I had in the city. When I mentioned this to the charming concierge Javier Guzmán, he smiled and conspiratorially told me that they grind the beans with cacao nibs.  

Casa Antonieta was a welcome refuge for us to return to after a full day of adventures within and outside of the city. The concierge team was always happy to share recommendations and arrange transportation for us when needed. If you’re searching for a great home base and unforgettable stay in Oaxaca Centro, look no further. –Duke

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The unassuming façade of Casa Antonieta belies the lush interior.

Casa Antonieta

Miguel Hidalgo 911
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico