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A Travel Guide to Qatar Ahead of the World Cup

Is it safe for gay tourists to travel to this Muslim country? What is there to do in Qatar aside from the big event? How expensive is it? Here’s what you need to know before you go to Qatar. 

On the field of Al Wakrah Stadium in Qatar

Al Wakrah Stadium is one of eight that the government of Qatar built to host the FIFA World Cup 2022.

The gulf state of Qatar is set for an influx of tourists this winter as the World Cup lands on its shore. There’s been a debate about how to pronounce the country’s name, but I’ve found you’re safe going with “Ka-tar.” 

It’s an unusual, even controversial, location for the World Cup; what’s considered the most popular sporting competition in the world is played during the summer months and has been ever since 1930 — but the heat in Qatar means it has been shifted to November. Also, the host country usually has a record of qualifications for the event, but Qatar has never been in the finals until now. 

Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.”
Al Janoub Stadium vagina-like exterior

Architect Zaha Hadid thought that claims that her Al Janoub Stadium resembles a vagina are “ridiculous.” You decide.

Still, with around 2.1 million tourists visiting annually and 1.8 million tickets sold for the competition, it promises to make 2022 a record-breaking year. The event is proving to be so popular the South China Morning Post reports that people are being offered to stay in tents in the desert, as the 30,000 hotel rooms have been booked up already.

The World Cup happens every four years and features 32 of the world's best soccer (or football to most of the world) teams. The United States will be there, joining England, Wales and Iran, and are expected to progress to the knockout stages. They're down in the overall ranking in the current Ladbrokes odds, but fans will still head out in large numbers, full of expectation. 

Qatar University Stadium aerial view

The Qatar University Stadium has been expanded to accommodate more fans in preparation for the World Cup.

If you’re heading to Qatar, you might not know what to expect from your team, but here’s how to prepare for whatever greets you off the field. The country is hoping that its new air-conditioned stadiums, hotels and museums will boost local and international tourism long after the games have ended. In fact, it has spent billions on infrastructure — including eight stadiums — in the 11 years since winning the bid to host.

Muslim men walking in front of the Souq Waqif

Qatar is a Muslim country where most men wear headdresses and long white garments called thobes, like this trio in front of Souq Waqif, a traditional marketplace in Doha.

Religion

It’s important to understand that Qatar is an Islamic country, and there are certain aspects of its culture with which you must be familiar. For instance, drinking in public is banned, but there is a level of tolerance within the country. Alcohol is permitted in some places. 

Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir of Qatar, says gays are welcome — just don’t be too gay.

And in a country where homosexuality is illegal many gay tourists are wondering if they’d be safe attending the World Cup. Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.”

Pink building and waterway in the Qanat Quartier of Doha

The Qanat Quartier in Doha has been compared to Venice.

Transport in Qatar

Getting around Qatar is easy, with Karwa taxis being widely available and reasonably priced. Apps such as Careem and Uber also operate in Qatar, so you should never be stuck without a ride. In addition, there's a metro network with three lines; the red line connects Hamad International Airport with the city center and is useful for new arrivals.

Skyscrapers of Doha, Qatar at night

Qatar is a country where you can get by quite cheaply — or you can travel in luxury.

Value

Qatar has two sides: One is very expensive and the other not. If you wish to take in top restaurants and luxurious hotels, the prices are sky-high. However, you can visit Qatar on a budget with ease. The World Cup might raise prices, but usually, the winter season sees hotel rooms available for around $60 per night. Eating out can also be done cheaply; food courts and street vendors can provide great food for as little as $20 per day.

City of Doha at night as seen through arches at the Museum of Islamic Art

The nighttime skyline of Doha as seen through the arches of the Museum of Islamic Art

Qatar Attractions

Visitors who venture outside the World Cup might be surprised to find a thriving art scene in Doha, the capital city. The Museum of Islamic Art is a must-see. It's a fantastic example of local architecture with a vast collection of glasswork, paintings and ancient manuscripts. Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art is also worth a visit. 

Museum of Islamic Art in Doha with boat

The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha was designed by I.M. Pei, the same dude responsible for the pyramid in front of the Louvre.

There are also three new museums being built, including the Lusail Museum, which will boast the world’s most extensive collection of Eastern paintings, drawings, photography and sculptures.

Khor Al-Adaid sand dunes from above

Khor Al-Adaid, with its sweeping dunes, is also known as the Inland Sea.

There are plenty of natural attractions, too. The Al Thakira mangroves in the north and the salt flats along the coast are both natural beauties, while Khor Al-Adaid, the Inland Sea, is another highlight visitors shouldn’t miss. And the “Singing Sand Dunes” on the southwest edge of Doha are a great day trip for those wanting a desert safari. A favorite activity there is dune bashing: off-road driving in an SUV with wide tires that slide across the sand as if on ice.

Aerial view of the Pearl in Doha

The World Cup is undeniably changing the country of Doha, adding infrastructure and attractions — making it more of a travel destination.

Beyond the World Cup

Those traveling to Qatar solely for soccer won’t see the best of the country: hotels will be booked solid, transport networks stretched and crowds intense. However, if you come early or remain after the tournament, you'll find a beautiful country that’s more tolerant than the media has suggested, waiting to welcome you with open arms. –Max Hopper