Magic Mushroom Retreats: The Psychedelic Side of Barcelona

Embark on a psilocybin-fueled spirit quest in Spain’s strangest city. But what should you expect? How do shrooms work?

Embark on a journey of self-discovery and healing at a magic mushroom retreat, (perhaps in Spain?), where guided experiences unlock the mind’s potential and foster profound personal growth.

Barcelona isn’t just your typical tourist hotspot with pretty sights and tasty tapas; it’s also an underground capital for those looking to flip their mental scripts with magic mushroom retreats. The city offers a variety of unique experiences, with one of the most transformative being retreats that harness the therapeutic benefits of psilocybin, the active compound in magic mushrooms. These retreats aim to provide a secure and supportive setting for participants to undergo profound personal development journeys.

“Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.”

Gaudí’s la Sagrada Família masterwork dominates the Barcelona skyline.

The Trip of a Lifetime

Enter the emerging world of magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona. Think of them as the love child of ancient shamanic rituals and cutting-edge neuroscience. It’s where you can unlock new dimensions of your consciousness with psilocybin. Guided by pros in the comfiest of settings, participants embark on a trip to explore the wilds of their consciousness that’s set up to be as safe as possible.

Psilocybin, a natural compound with psychoactive properties, is found in certain species of mushrooms.

What is psilocybin?

Simply put, it’s the “magic” in magic mushrooms that catapults you into profound psychological adventures. 

This naturally occurring compound is found in over 200 mushroom species that have been used for centuries in traditional spiritual and ceremonial practices. 

When ingested, psilocybin primarily interacts with serotonin receptors in the brain.

The intensity and nature of your trip can vary greatly depending on the dose, your psychology and the environment. 

As more and more scientists study psilocybin, the buzz is hitting a high. Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.

Consuming magic mushrooms can lead to vivid and profound changes in perception, emotions and thought patterns, often described as a journey through the depths of your consciousness.

What happens when you shroom?

When you eat magic mushrooms, it’s like your brain turns up the dial on reality to 11, making everything — from the colors around you to your innermost thoughts — more vivid, intense and sometimes downright bizarre. 

Here’s a bit of what you might expect:

Technicolor World: The world around you might suddenly seem crisper, more detailed and drenched in colors you never knew existed. It’s like you’re seeing the world in 4K resolution. 

Emotional Amplifier: Your emotions could get more intense. A song might move you to tears, or you could find yourself laughing uncontrollably at something that’s not usually funny. It can be a bit of an emotional rollercoaster.

Time Warp: Your perception of time might take a vacation. What feels like hours could be just minutes. Time can seem to slow down, speed up or become completely irrelevant.

Nature Feels: A newfound appreciation for nature is common. Trees might seem to breathe, and patterns in leaves or grass can become fascinating. It’s like Mother Nature is putting on a private show just for you.

The Inner Journey: Shrooms often kickstart a deep dive into your own psyche. You might unearth thoughts and feelings you didn’t know you had, leading to profound insights about yourself and your place in the universe.

Remember, every shroom trip is a unique adventure. Setting, mood and company play huge roles in shaping the experience. That’s why it’s so essential to be in a welcoming and safe environment.

Over 32 million people globally have shroomed before, according to a 2020 survey by Gitnux. That number has surely grown exponentially since then.

Why are shrooms so popular?

The surge in interest around magic mushrooms, spearheaded by “shroom mommies” and similar communities, signifies a seismic shift in how society views psychedelics. No longer relics of a bygone era of counterculture, these substances are being reexamined through the lens of wellness and self-care. This movement is not just about tapping into unexplored realms of the mind but also about challenging and dismantling the longstanding stigmas associated with psychedelic use.

Barcelona’s blend of enchanting landscapes and a culturally rich environment make it a great place for magic mushroom retreat.

Barcelona, Europe’s Version of Wonderland

If there were ever a place meant for shrooming, it’s Barcelona. Thanks in no small part to the curious genius of Antoni Gaudí and the city’s embrace of vibrant Moderisme, Barcelona is whimsy incarnate. It’s the perfect backdrop for a shift in perspective.

Is shrooming safe?

Participant well-being is prioritized at these retreats, with a focus on safety by professional teams who specialize in psychedelic therapy. These experts provide continuous support, creating a secure and therapeutic environment. The retreat experience is enriched by incorporating holistic practices like meditation, yoga and nature immersion, further elevating the transformative journey.

Dive into the depths of consciousness at a magic mushroom retreat, where nature’s wisdom meets transformative healing and awakening.

What are the benefits of a magic mushroom retreat?

Attendees say they come out the other side as someone new. The insights gained and emotional breakthroughs experienced often lead to lasting changes, offering new perspectives on challenges and enhancing theirquality of life in general. It’s a journey of healing, self-discovery and personal growth. Think of it as therapy — but the kind where you might see sound and hear colors. 

The trip doesn’t end when you leave Barcelona. Chances are you’ll gain insights and lessons into daily life, taking the first steps on a new path — one that has more joy, peace and a deeper appreciation for life.

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona offer a fusion of urban whimsy and spiritual depth, inviting participants to explore their consciousness with the safety of expert guidance.

Shroom to Grow: The transformative power of nature’s most mystical fungi

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona are more than just a psychedelic experience; they’re a gateway to personal transformation and healing. Set in one of the most interesting cities in Europe, they provide the opportunity for those to look introspectively and make meaningful changes, guided by ancient wisdom and a supportive community.

There’s a fungus among us — and it’s time to see what it’s all about. –Kate Johnson

Traditional Temazcal Ceremony and Massage in Oaxaca

The herb-infused indigenous steam ritual at Temazcal Oaxaca opens your mind as well as your pores. Plus, you won’t believe how they cleanse you of negative energy.

Duke takes a seat in front of the temazcal, a sort of steam lodge that has been used by the Aztecs, Mixtecs and other indigenous people of Mexico.

I’ve always dreamed of embarking upon a spirit quest. Throw in a massage afterward, and it’s a no-brainer. I’m in. 

When I first read about temazcales in Viva Oaxaca: An Insider’s Guide to Oaxaca’s Charms by Robert Adler and Jo Ann Wexler, I knew Duke and I had to experience one. 

When researching which temazcal to try out, Duke was drawn to Temazcal Oaxaca, thanks to its Insta page. 

“She walked behind me and began to lightly beat me with a bundle of herbs. 

The temazcalera does this to cleanse you of negativity. This transfers the bad energy to the herbs, which are then burned. ”

Wally is ready to embark upon his temazcal spirit quest — part of an ancient tradition of the indigenous peoples of Mexico.

We had just wrapped up a folk art tour with the wonderful Linda Hanna, and when the time came, we found a car waiting outside our hotel, Casa Antonieta, ready to drive us to the village of Santa María Coyotepec for our temazcal experience. The driver turned out to be Nathan Dawson, the young man who designed, built and runs Temazcal Oaxaca with his girlfriend, Orosei Acevedo. 

The courtyard at Temazcal Oaxaca with the cold plunge tub off to the right

What Is a Temazcal?

The name translates to “house of hot rocks.” These brick structures — imagine a Native American sweat lodge shaped like an igloo — are a tradition used for various purposes by many of the ancient indigenous peoples of Mexico. Sure, Nathan told us, they were part of spiritual rituals, but the Aztecs used them to prepare soldiers for battle, the Mixtecs of the mountains used them to induce labor, and more recently, they’re used for general bathing — villagers can save on precious water and emerge smelling like fresh herbs. 

Traditionally, a woman known as a temazcalera will guide you through the process. This role is sometimes referred to as a shaman or curandera (folk healer). Every pueblo has a midwife, and she’s who acts as temazcalera, Nathan informed us. 

The peaceful area where you relax before and after your temazcal experience

Temazcal Oaxaca: “By Far the Best”

When we arrived, an expat couple from St. Louis had just finished their experience. They moved to Oaxaca a few years ago, and like every American we’ve met living here, they have no plans of going back to the States. 

The man encouraged us to take a shot of mezcal to loosen us up for the temazcal, so I squeezed orange slices into our thimble-sized goblets and we threw them back. It’s also recommended you drink a couple of glasses of water to hydrate before the steam bath. 

As we sat at the table, a spray of liquid hit my forearm. No one else saw or felt anything. I began to believe I was marked by an invisible spirit animal in preparation for my temazcal. 

When I asked Nathan later what it might have been, he said it was most likely one of the giant cicadas that live in the tree — which certainly wasn’t as glamorous a spirit animal as I was hoping for. 

As the couple left, the man told us, “I’ve been to temazcals all over, and this is by far the best. It’s not touristy; it’s the real deal.”

The temazcal is purposefully shaped like a womb.

Inside the Temazcal: Return to the Womb

We ducked our heads and entered the dark brick structure, sitting upon wooden stools in front of a fire that heats rocks. Our temazcalera, Narcedalia, knelt next to me, taking bundles of herbs, dipping them into a bucket of water and then placing them atop the hot rocks. An aroma filled the space, with many of the herbs working to open the lungs. We took deep breaths and entered a meditative state. My mind journeyed to a troubled relationship I have with a family member, suggesting that I should make the effort to repair it. 

Our lovely temazcalera, Narcedalia, guided us through the ritual.

A glimpse inside the temazcal — before the door shuts and you embark upon a dark, steamy spirit journey

Now and then, Narcedalia rattled off something in Spanish, and we mostly caught the gist. She explained that temazcales are good for the head, the heart, the stomach, her hand moving to each part of the body as she spoke them. 

When sweat poured down our faces, Narcedalia took our washcloths, wet them and refreshingly dabbed our faces. Every once in a while, she sang a quiet song from her home, Atzompa, a nearby pueblo known for its pottery. It was lovely to hear her soft, soothing voice, filling the chamber like a lullaby.  

As I sat there in the dark, imagining I was part of an ancient Mixtec group undergoing a ritual experience, Narcedalia walked behind me and began to lightly beat me with one of the bundles of herbs. The temazcalera does this to cleanse you of negativity. This transfers the bad energy to the herbs, which are then burned. 

As Nathan later explained, modern-day grandmothers carry on this tradition. If something bad happens or a child is scared, the abuela will rub an egg on the person, declaring that the evil is now in the egg, which she will then bury. Alternatively, she might lightly whip you with herbs to get rid of your fear — like they do in a temazcal.

“You’re transferring the negativity to the herb,” Nathan said. “Then you’re symbolically letting go of it, burning it on the rock.”

You’ll get lightly beaten by bundles of herbs to cleanse you of negativity during the temazcal ceremony.

After about 20 minutes or so (it’s impossible to know for sure, as the experience seems to take place out of time), we took Nathan’s advice and moved to sit on the floor to cool off slightly. Then, after another passage of time, the temazcalera placed pillows on the ground, and we laid there, relaxed and refreshed. 

At one point, Narcedalia said something that sounded like she wanted us to open our towels. So, we made our privates public, hoping that’s what she was saying. 

And when she poured water over us in a baño, or bath, I sighed in contentment, and was relieved that we had correctly understood her. She was so gentle, like a mother bathing a baby. And indeed, the shape of the temazcal is round, to mimic a pregnant belly. 

“You’re going into Mother Earth’s womb and back out again,” Nathan told us. 

The massage beds as seen through gauze

Rubbed Down and Relaxed 

Don’t be surprised if your experience is a bit different. Nathan and Orosei are always seeking to enhance the experience, adding a sensory element here, a spa treatment there. (They’ve got plans to have patrons do a natural mud mask after the temazcal, once the pores are good and open.) 

After our temazcal, we skipped the cold plunge and went into the nearby building, where we had changed out of our clothes. Now we got ready for our massages. There are so many nice touches, including a blindfold and aromatic herbs placed by our noses — both of which connected back to the temazcal experience. 

Nathan hired Narcedalia and her two sisters to act as temazcaleras and put them through massage school. I don’t know that I’ve ever been more relaxed after a rub-down. We had turned into puddles of goop. After a cup of tea, Duke and I got up slowly, put our clothes back on and literally oozed outside. 

Wally, blissed out after the temazcal and massage

We sat in the courtyard and chatted with Nathan, who grew up splitting his time between this village and Texas. He walked us around, showing us the various herbs used in the temazcal. It’s a variety that might include: boldo (the most common), basil, rosemary, rue, fennel, aloe vera, vicks plant, hierba maestra and hierba buena. 

Nathan and Orosei grow most of their own herbs to open your lungs, your pores and perhaps even your soul.

Nathan, the owner of Temazcal Oaxaca, showed us the various herbs grown in the courtyard and used in the temazcal.

Vicks plant, on the left, is Mexico’s natural version of Vicks VapoRub.

While his family has operated a temazcal for decades, this site opened in October 2021. Nathan is an astute entrepreneur — he’s got a vision, and the experience he has created is one of a kind. 

We highly recommend adding Temazcal Oaxaca to your itinerary. It’d be best to do so toward the end of your trip — a wonderful way to refresh after days walking in the heat and driving to the charming villages on the outskirts of town. –Wally

Wally and Duke stand on either side of the Mixtec symbol for a heart.

When you’re done, say a prayer of thanks to the god of temazcales.

 

Temazcal Oaxaca

Allende Santa María Coyotepec
71254 Oaxaca
México

5 of the World’s Most Underrated Adventure Travel Destinations

The lemurs of Madagascar, the prayer flags of Nepal, the rock faces of South Korea, the azure waters of Slovenia and the mountainside fortresses of Bhutan: These are the best-kept secret destinations for trekking and other outdoor activities.

The Temple of Guru Padmasambhava is just one of the many delights found in Bhutan, one of the lesser known (albeit a bit tricky to visit) adventure travel destinations.

Choosing a destination for your next adventure can feel downright overwhelming. Trekking in Greenland? Bouldering in Utah? Paddling the Caribbean? Throwing a dart at a map and hoping it lands somewhere cool?

When the entire globe is your playground, it can be tough to choose. Hey, nothing like a list of suggestions to get the wheels turning, right? 

“Madagascar is an adventure travel destination that rivals the Galapagos in the “did I just step into a Dr. Seuss book?” factor. ”

Here are five of the world’s most underrated adventure travel destinations, all with their own unique appeal. Maybe that means the bucket list just got five lines longer. Better get planning!   

Baobab trees in Madagascar definitely up the Dr. Seuss factor.

1. Madagascar 

This far-flung island off the eastern coast of Africa isn’t just dancing lemurs — it’s an adventure travel destination that rivals the Galapagos in the “did I just step into a Dr. Seuss book?” factor. For lovers of nature, this island boasts biodiversity in spades, with chameleons, primates, frogs and sealife calling it home. For adventurers, its lack of cars means every step becomes part of an exploratory trek. 

Many spots on Madagascar are home to lemurs.

Between Madagascar’s Mantadia and Ranomafana National Parks, visitors will find miles and miles of hiking trails seemingly from another planet. After exploring inland, adventurers can migrate to the coast to unwind at pristine stretches of beach, like the impossibly turquoise Nosy Be island, which doubles as a lemur habitat. 

Prayer flags are found throughout Nepal. They’re said to carry prayers and mantras on the wind.

2. Nepal 

Perched atop the spine of the planet, Nepal might not seem “underrated” at all. Here’s the thing: With big names like Everest within its borders, it’s certainly one of the ultimate adventure destinations of the world. 

The base camp at Everest, the highest mountain on the planet, is a colorful spot to kick off a trek.

However, it’s a country that can feel entirely too challenging or out of reach for many travellers. When its main attraction is the tallest mountain on Earth, Nepal can be a bit intimidating to the masses. But you can, and should, visit even if you’re not planning on setting foot in a base camp. There’s something about trekking in Nepal, prayers flag fluttering overhead, rhododendrons blooming, towering peaks in the foreground… It’s magical. Don’t keep putting it off until you’re better, older, wiser, whatever. 

Paro Taktsang, a Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, clings to the cliffside.

3. Bhutan 

As much as the idea of isolation has taken on an entirely new meaning in the recent past (curse you, COVID!), Bhutan exemplifies one of the most fascinating applications of isolation in the tourism world. Having only just allowed television into the country in 1999 and still prohibiting the sale of goods like tobacco, Bhutan has opened to the ideas of the rest of the world on its own schedule. This includes tourism.

The masked dances of Bhutan take place annually. Try to catch one — it’s said to purify the soul and bring good luck.

Even getting into Bhutan feels a bit like jumping through hoops. You’ll need to be invited by a citizen of the country (unless you hold a passport from India, Bangladesh or the Maldives), or be a guest of the government. You’ll be required to pay a set daily fee to see the country, and the geographical isolation of the nation makes flights costly and complicated. 

However, if you manage to wrangle a visit, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most exceptional, unspoiled scenery the world has to offer, as well as a rich culture developed without interruption from the outside world. From 7,000-meter summits to lush green valleys, the natural landscape is simply unreal. Of course, the dzongs (fortresses) perched atop impossibly steep cliffs are one of the gems of Bhutan. The chance to explore this unknown destination is a rare treat and undoubtedly worth the effort. 

Cycling and great food come together for wellness travels in South Korea.

4. South Korea 

This small country (slightly larger than the U.S. state of Indiana) is an absolute goldmine when it comes to outdoor adventure. And South Korea’s relative lack of “hype” in the adventure travel world is a blessing in disguise. 

Rock climbers will find numerous sites for adventure in South Korea.

While others flock to Iceland and the Rockies, you can discover South Korea’s expansive hiking trails and climbing-ready rocky cliffs in peace. There are 20 mountains a stone’s throw from Seoul, making outdoor adventure an easy outing once you’re done eating your way through the capital (which you definitely should). Rock climbers will find more places than they could hope to cover in one trip, and many of these locations are so beautiful that the locals believe spirits call them home.

Because of a robust road system, South Korea is a must for cyclists looking to put in miles somewhere new, and the snowy slopes near Pyeongchang are perfect off-the-beaten-path destinations for snow sports enthusiasts. No shortage of adventure to be had here!

A small isle in Lake Bled in Slovenia is home to the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary.

5. Slovenia

Slovenia typically isn’t considered one of Europe’s many top-notch travel destinations. But as incredible as Italy and Spain will always be, Slovenia is truly one of the most underrated adventure travel destinations in the world. 

The gorgeous Soca River in Slovenia is a great spot for kayaking, rafting and other water sports.

It’s a teeny country, but it offers the Slovenian Alps, the bright blue Soca River, hidden beaches on seaside stretches and beautiful Lake Bled. Whether you’re looking to kayak, swim, hike, go canyoneering or just savor a fantastic view, Slovenia delivers. Plus, you’re not going to be battling crowds or dodging selfie sticks while you explore. 

Apologies in advance for the wanderlust. Which of these underrated adventure travel destinations will you be visiting first? –Lukas Saville

What It’s Really Like to Walk the Camino Frances

Everything you need to know about the Camino de Santiago, from the difficult first day to the frustrating ending — with all the serenity in between.

The Camino Francés is the most popular of the pilgrimage routes that end up in Santiago de Compostela, where Saint James the Great’s body is said to be buried

Walking for 35 days. A 500-mile trek through northern Spain. It’s not everyone’s idea of a vacation. So what got our friend Susan to decide to take on the Camino de Santiago?

Susan decided to hike the Camino de Santiago by herself

Blame Oprah. At least in part. You see, Susan saw Winfrey’s special about spiritual belief, and was intrigued by the camino. She was going through a transition in her life and wanted to do something epic.

There are at least eight different routes to choose from, and Susan decided upon the Camino Francés, the most popular option.

Here’s what this intense pilgrimage entails.

 

Why did you decide to do the Camino de Santiago?

I had heard about the Camino de Santiago back in 2011 when I was living abroad in Ireland. I always had it in the back of my head that it sounded really cool. I was burnt out as a lawyer and wanted to do something that was completely out of my element. I decided to quit my job and go back to school. I had about five weeks from my last day of work before my master’s program started, and the camino seemed perfect because you can do it by yourself and it’s safe. You can walk alone, but there are also lots of opportunities to meet other people from all over the world. When I told everyone I was going to go to Spain to walk 500 miles, they all said it sounded crazy — but also really cool.

“The first day was uphill through the Pyrénées. It was raining and muddy, and I was thinking to myself, “What have I gotten myself into?!”

I didn’t know if I was going to make it.”

In the spring, the camino is less crowded than in the summer

When did you go?

There’s a ton of people in June, July and August, but not in May, when I was there. There are stretches where you don’t see anyone.

How long was the hike?

About five weeks. It took me a few days to get to the starting point. I flew into Biarritz, France. The walk starts in a town called Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The overall route took me 32 days to walk 560 miles.

Some days involve hiking uphill in the Pyrénées, though some people find it even more difficult going downhill

What’s it like when you start the Camino de Santiago?

Scary. I didn’t prepare much. When I met people along the way, they had done so much research. I ordered hiking shoes and a backpack, and booked my flight. I got into Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and I was terrified. I didn’t know what to expect. The first day I got there, it was pouring rain. I got up at 7 a.m., put my backpack on…and just started walking.

How was the French leg of the journey?

You only spend about a day and a half in France. Unlike in Spain, where everything’s well marked, there are no signs in France. Within the first 500 feet, I took a wrong turn, which I’m gonna blame on this girl from Hungary. I followed her, and after a while, we were like, this doesn’t look right. So we had taken an hour-long detour.

The second half of the day was uphill through the Pyrénées, so it was very difficult. It was raining and muddy, and I was thinking to myself, “What have I gotten myself into?!” I didn’t know if I was going to be able to make it through the whole thing. And apparently, this was the easy route! We had heard horror stories from people who had done the harder route.

Things got so much easier after that. I’m kind of glad I didn’t know about the huge incline ’cause I would have been really anxious about it.

Look for this icon to keep on the camino

Was it easy to get lost on the camino?

There’s an app for the Camino de Santiago — which I didn’t realize until the third day. The app tells you all the different places you can stay, if it’s flat, if you have inclines or declines.

It’s called Buen Camino, which is what everyone says to you when you pass them. It means “good way.” You see yourself as a little yellow dot, so you can see if you’re straying off the path.

And once you get to Spain, it’s fabulous. The paths are marked with the shell that’s the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. Every so often you’ll see a cement pillar with a shell on it. And when you’re in towns, there are yellow arrows.

What’s the terrain like?

At first it was a path through the mountains, but most of the camino is gravel. There are other days when you’re in the forest or have to walk on the street. It’s beautiful. At some points, you’re walking through vineyards. I liked the smaller towns more than the cities. It was so peaceful and nice. I tried to bond with nature and take in my surroundings.

The first thing you see in every village is the church tower

Who else was on the camino?

I didn’t meet a lot of Americans — mostly Europeans, Australians and Koreans. You have all ages, women, men. Most people were by themselves, though you did have some couples. Some people did it for religious reasons, but most were doing it as a spiritual experience, trying to take a break from their lives. Some people were really fit; some people didn’t last the whole time.

People formed little groups. Most of them stayed in the albergues, the hostels.

How difficult was the hike?

About seven days in is a town called Logroño, and there’s a big hospital there. And that’s where they say a lot of people’s bodies break down. They have shin splints, plantar fasciitis, knee injuries.

The declines are actually the worst. You’ve got a heavy backpack on, it’s gravel, and you have to support yourself and not fall forward.

Some people ended up taking shortcuts because they physically weren’t up for it. I didn’t take any shortcuts!

I was surprised I held up as well as I did. But I live in Chicago and don’t have a car. I walk a lot. I had some blisters, but that was doable — I just put some band-aids on those.

The training plans are pretty intense. They say you should walk an hour a day and then six hours a day on the weekend with your backpack. I didn’t do that.

I’m not a hiker, but I would say it’s a moderate trek. I’d say a third of it is more difficult: up or down, rocky terrain.

What kind of shoes did you get?

I didn’t have any light hiking shoes, so I ordered some cute pink ones. I did a lot of reading on discussion boards, and I knew I didn’t want anything too heavy. People thought they looked like running sneakers. I ordered them a month before, and wore them every time I’d go out to walk the dog to break them in.

What’s Susan got in her bag? A couple extra outfits, toiletries, a hat, a portable charger, an extra pair of shoes, PJs, a rain jacket and a fleece

What was in your backpack?

They say to bring only two outfits — I brought three.

That would be the hardest part for us. We would’ve brought like 10 outfits.

There are services where you could have your backpack transported. I didn’t have a hiking backpack, so I bought one that was 34 liters. I brought tank tops, three pairs of stretchy yoga pants, small toiletries, a small sleeping bag — which I ended up ditching. You only need it if you’re staying at hostels. The second day I ditched a lot of stuff in my pack ’cause you just want to get it as light as possible. Bring a portable charger, just in case you’re in the middle of nowhere and your cell phone dies. I had a hat and an extra pair of shoes, one pair of pajamas, a rain jacket and a fleece, which I wore to bed a lot since I got cold. I had some pairs of thin hiking socks but ended up buying thicker ones when I got there that gave more support.

I ended up cutting two pairs of my pants and made shorts, ha ha. No shame! It’s one of those things you’d normally never do.

A lot of people that go in the summer get up early to hike before sunrise to avoid the heat. They bring headlamps to see in the dark, but I couldn’t imagine doing that on some of the terrain.

Gravel paths, paved roads, stony mountain passes and dirt trails through the woods — every day on the camino offers something different

Take us through a typical day on the camino.

I’d wake up — I’d have all my stuff laid out and I’d take a shower the night before. So I’d grab my backpack and go, around 7 or 8 a.m. The night before, I’d look at the app and all the towns and figure out how far I was gonna walk. I’d always book beforehand online. A lot of people just walked until they got tired and would find a place. I liked to have the security of knowing I had a room — a lot of these places were in the middle of nowhere.

I never ate breakfast, so I’d head out. Around 10 a.m., I’d find a place to stop and get a café con leche and a croissant. There wasn’t a lot of great food — these are tiny towns that cater to the pilgrims, as they call us. And none of the pilgrims are looking for good food; they’re looking for cheap stuff. The menu was the same at every place.

“I’d eat around 8 p.m. and go right to bed. And then do the same thing the next morning.

It was kind of like “Groundhog Day” — but I loved every minute of it.”

Every time you come up to someone — I’m a fast walker and would pass everybody — you would say hello, “buen camino.” If they seem like they wanted to chat, I’d walk with them for a bit. You’d see people you’d seen before, so it was very social. But I did spend a lot of the time by myself.

I would usually get to where I was going between 1 to 3 p.m. So I didn’t eat until I got there. A lot of people who stopped to eat breakfast and lunch got there much later. I liked to get there and relax — not that there was a lot to do there most of the time. But I’d walk around, and if I saw people I knew, I’d hang out with them.

I’d eat around 8 p.m. or so, and go right to bed because I was exhausted. And then do the same thing the next morning. It was kind of like Groundhog Day — but I loved every minute of it.

Where’d you stay?

You can pay 8 euros for a bed at a hostel, and dinner was €10. You can do this super cheap — for about €30 a day. For me, getting a private room, I’d pay about €20. In a bigger city, like Pamplona, Burgos, Léon and Santiago, I’d stay at a hotel and pay up to €75 euros.

The smaller villages were very downtrodden and economically depressed. I wanted to tell these people, “You should raise your prices!”

How about pee breaks?

I didn’t take a lot. There’s not a lot of places to go to the bathroom. Maybe every 15 kilometers, there’ll be a small coffeeshop you could go in. I’m not a person who can pee outside. So this is going to sound weird, but I didn’t drink a lot of water during the day. I’m sure a lot of people would say that’s really bad. When I got to where I was going, I’d drink a ton of water.

Most people do pee outside, though?

Yes! I saw a lot of people peeing outside. It’s acceptable to do so. I saw people’s asses. I felt like people should have had a little more discretion.

Were there differences between the French and the Spanish?

I don’t want to offend anybody. The French just weren’t as welcoming, though I was only in France for a day and a half. They don’t want to speak English to you. I don’t want to be an ignorant American saying they should speak English, ’cause I don’t think that. I felt like they were, why are you in my country? But maybe that’s not representative of everyone one else’s experience.

In Spain, everyone tried to speak English. They know what you want: You get your passport in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and you have to get it stamped at the hostels and cafés. And that’s what they inspect when you get to Santiago de Compostela to prove you did the whole thing, and then they give you a certificate called the compostela. I waited in line for two hours to get this. You have to walk at least 100 kilometers to get one — and what annoyed me is that it’s the same certificate, whether you’ve walked 100 kilometers or the entire 800 like I did.

For many, the Camino de Santiago is a spiritual journey — just don’t get bummed if you don’t “find yourself”

Was it a spiritual journey?

It’s funny — you’re walking 15 to 20 miles a day and are in your own head. But it’s not like I had all these deep thoughts and came to these epiphanies, which I thought I might! I was hoping to find myself, ha ha. A lot of your mind is taken up with thinking about the next town you’re getting to, following the trail, talking to people. I thought I’d have a lot of time to figure things out, but I didn’t contemplate life as much as I should have, maybe. You think you’re going to work out all the things in your life and come back perfect.

What’s it like when you finally get to Santiago?

It’s anticlimactic. You walk into Santiago and you think there’s going to be trumpets or a parade — you just walked 500 miles! It’s so crowded; it’s so commercialized. It’s very stressful. It wasn’t a good experience. Everyone ends up going to the Pilgrims’ Mass at the cathedral, where they say your name. But I didn’t end up going because I was in line to get my certificate.

The camino is technically a pilgrimage, so locals try to get you go into the village church

What then?

I didn’t think I was going to go anywhere else after Santiago. But I ended up doing it in less time than I had planned. You can keep going another 60 miles to the coast, an extra three days. And it was absolutely beautiful, a place called Finisterre. It’s right on the ocean and they call it the End of the World. That’s where the 0 Kilometer pillar is, so that’s cool. There wasn’t a lot of people there, and there’s a lighthouse and a guy playing bagpipes. There’s a beach with seashells. It’s very peaceful. It’s a great place to reflect and feel rewarded, rather than Santiago, which was so dispiriting. I got a room at a hotel that had a beautiful view of the ocean that wasn’t that expensive. It was such a fabulous way to end the trip.

Keep walking! Susan recommends going beyond Santiago to Finisterre, a lovely, more calm way to end the epic journey

A lot of people, if they’re not going to walk, they’ll take a bus. I took the bus back to Santiago since I was flying out of there. I ran into the Hungarian girl I met on the first day and other people, so I went out with them.

What surprised you about the Camino de Santiago the most?

I’m not a huge athlete or anything, so I was surprised by how effortlessly I was able to do it — apart from that first day.

I had always heard about the culture of Spain, but I was surprised by how poor a lot of the towns were. They’re all centered around the pilgrims. The places I stayed were acceptable, but I heard a lot of stories about people staying in albergues that weren’t. But when you’re paying €8 a night…

There was a lot of dirt and stray animals — it was a lot less glamorous than I expected. I didn’t realize how economically downtrodden this part of Spain was. But at the same time, the people were very generous and welcoming.

You can hike the Camino de Santiago very affordably — as low as 30 euros a day!

Siestas were crazy, too. Everything in town closes from 2 to 5 p.m. Hotels and restaurants tended to be open, but no grocery or clothing stores. I’d go to the store when it opened and get snacks for the next day.

Sometimes restaurants would be open, but the kitchen would be closed from 6 to 9 p.m. You could get drinks, but there wasn’t any food.

Religion was everywhere. Whenever you’d come into a town, the biggest building there would be the church — the first thing you’d see is that cross. So church bells were ever-present during my trek, which I really enjoyed. People would be there, trying to get you to go into the church.

Susan didn’t do a whole lot of planning for the trip — and it all worked out

What was the laundry situation?

I did a lot of sink-washing. But a lot of the places have washing machines, but not dryers. People would hang their stuff outside. But you’d have to get there first. Most of the time, I’d wash my stuff in the bathtub with shower gel.

It was simple. You don’t have creature comforts, but you have everything you need. Normally when I go on a trip, I bring big suitcases and all this shit. It was so nice to put everything into one backpack and that was it. I survived. Now I’m just gonna bring a backpack everywhere I go.

Really?

We’ll see.

Any final advice do you have for people who want to walk the Camino de Santiago?

Don’t plan too much. Take it as it comes — don’t overcomplicate things, because it’s all going to work out totally fine. –Wally

“It’s acceptable to pee outside. I saw people’s asses.

I felt like people should have had a little more discretion.”

Spa Day Heaven: Padma Spa at Plataran Borobudur

If you’re in Java, relax with a massage and scrub — though it’s all about the volcanic stone tub and epic view.

Our treatment room overlooked the jungle-covered mountain

Indonesian hospitality is in full effect at Padma Spa at Plataran Borobudur Resort. The exotic teakwood villa that houses the space sits perched like a Javanese treehouse on a hillside overlooking a dense forest of teak, casuarina and rasamala trees.

The facility offers a wide range of options and features six treatment rooms equipped with bathtubs carved from volcanic stone taken from nearby Mount Merapi as well as a relaxation lounge, nail salon and gym. They also have a small but well-curated assortment of items for sale in the reception area.

Among the elements incorporated into the spa’s design are intricately hand-carved teak fretwork window panels reflecting the region’s cultural heritage.

“The first thing we noticed was the volcanic stone tub, big enough for both of us.

The room offered floor-to-ceiling views across the jungle valley to the temple of Borobudur.”

The spa is on the grounds of Plataran Borobudur

Java Nadi Massage

Our visit began with cool towels and cups of ginger tea. Wally and I opted for the 60-minute Java Nadi massage. The spa director suggested we add a body scrub from the treatment menu. We agreed to add the 45-minute Lakshmi scrub — and were glad we did.

When we entered our treatment room, the first thing we noticed was the freestanding Merapi stone soaking tub, big enough for both of us. Flooded with natural light, the room offered floor-to-ceiling views across the jungle valley to the ancient Buddhist temple of Borobudur in the distance.

After we had changed into our robes, our feet were placed in basins of warm water to soak. Each therapist added bath salts, kaffir lime wheels, lemongrass, dried pomelo slices and peppermint essential oil, which gave off a delightfully revitalizing aroma.

Various natural ingredients are used in the spa’s treatments

We were asked to lie face-down under the top sheet on our massage tables. The tone from a single-note energy chime resonated as it was tapped three times before beginning.

The word “nadi” refers to the pathways or channels of energy that run throughout the human body. Java Nadi is a healing technique rooted in centuries-old traditions. Its aim is to restore balance and energy to the body.

A unique combination of slow, fluid movements, incorporating deep kneading and thumb pressure, this hands-on holistic treatment eases muscle and joint pain while increasing circulation.

When our massage had concluded, we experienced the hammam-like Lakshmi scrub: an aromatic combination of sandalwood, ground rice, lemongrass, candlenut and grapefruit that left our skin silky smooth.

Wally didn’t want to ever get out of the volcanic stone bathtub

Duke relaxes in the milk bath after the massage and body scrub

We finished by relaxing (OK, there was some goofing off as well) in the dramatic bathtub, which was filled with a lemongrass milk soak. As we gazed out the window, it felt like we were hovering over the landscape. Eventually, I was able to convince Wally to leave the tub.

I wanted to take home the earthenware teapot, batik robes and energy chime — but I didn’t want the bad karma. We loved every minute of our experience, and it put us in a deep state of relaxation. –Duke

Plataran Borobudur Resort & Spa
Dusun Tanjungan
Borobudur, Magelang
Jawa Tengah 56553
Indonesia

Taksu Spa: A Wellness Wonderland in Ubud

Try the Esalen massage at this gorgeous spa that offers healthy meals, yoga and other treatments.

Wally relaxes on the bridge at Taksu, after his amazing Esalen massage

Like the wardrobe that leads to the magical realm of Narnia, the unassuming building at the end of the lane doesn’t even begin to hint at the wonders that lie behind it.

“Then came a massage unlike any other we’ve experienced.

It was as if a Balinese dancer (or, more appropriately, a four-armed Hindu goddess) was moving her arms in all directions at once.”

The buildings at Taksu are nestled in lush greenery

The Quiet Stretch of Buddha Street

The night before our appointment, Duke and I found ourselves wandering around Ubud. It was still new to us, each street opening up like a flower, revealing its own personality. We had just crossed Jalal Dewisita, strolling down Jalal Goutama, which I nicknamed Buddha Street. Suddenly we were filled with a sense of calm. The restaurants that were open didn’t blast music. Conversation was subdued, respectful. Everyone seemed to have come to an agreement that this stretch of the street would offer a quiet oasis.

I turned to Duke and said, “I feel like this is where Taksu will be.” Sure enough, about five steps farther, we saw the sign for Taksu off to the right. As my dad, who tends to get words adorably wrong, has said, “ESPN runs in the family.”

There’s a very zen feel to the spa

Taksu Spa: A Hidden Oasis in Ubud

Once you step beyond that unassuming façade at Taksu Spa, you enter another world. The grounds are situated in a small valley, which a river literally runs through. The rains were so intense recently, the spa had to raise the bridge that spans the ravine.

Statues of the Buddha are tucked into various nooks on the spa grounds

Paths wind through zen gardens, ending in a small copse with a Buddha statue. Go off in another direction and you’ll pass a building that houses one of the two yoga schools or the Hindu shrine for the staff to worship at.

These poles are part of the hydroponic garden, growing herbs and veggies

Enjoy a quiet meal or snack at the café

Other trails lead to a hydroponic garden growing basil, lettuce, mint. Then you’ll come to the chill out zone and café, meandering past water features and an affordable all-you-can-eat salad bar in front of the open kitchen, where the smiling chef waves amidst his culinary creation.

Namaste

Taksu is one of those foreign words that has no direct translation. It acts as a linguistic suitcase, packing in a lot of meaning into those five letters. One way of defining it is as the essence of the spirit, explains Jero, the spa’s marketing advisor, who took us on a tour of the complex. It’s often a trait performers search for: a divine inspiration channeled into the ability to captivate an audience.

This cool waterfall feature is the centerpiece of Taksu, and helps create the relaxing atmosphere

That idea of wellness pervades everything at Taksu, from massage to yoga to healthy food options. In fact, they plan to open a wellness center as well, to help people live a wholesome lifestyle, learning what foods to eat and good behaviors to follow.

We had our massages in a building at the far end of the bridge

Our First Esalen Massage

Jero led us across the bridge, under a curtain of banyan branches, to a group of rooms at the far end of the grounds. Duke and I were shown into a room and told to change into those black mesh panties that fit as flatteringly as a shower cap.

Wally and Duke are two super sweet travel bloggers "obsessed with other cultures, religion, folklore, architecture, handicrafts and food" as they put it themselves. It was a delight to have you both with us today, @notsoinnocents! Come and see us again very soon! .. . . . . #taksuspa #exploreubud
 #infoubud
 #ubud
 #ubudbali 
#ubudcafe
#ubudfood
 #ubudhood
 #ubudlife
 #ubudrestaurant
 #ubudtrip 
#ubudvape
#bali🌴
 #baliadvisor 
#balibible 
#baliindonesia
 #baliisland
 #balilife
 #balilivin
 #balitrip
 #balivibes 
#bestinbali
 #thebalibible
 #thebaliguideline
 #thebaliguru 
#whatsnewbali 
#wheretoeatinbali 
#deliciousdishes 
#hungryinbali 
#foodventurer

A post shared by Taksu Spa & Restaurant (@taksuspa) on May 2, 2018 at 2:46am PDT

We let the masseuses know we were ready and lay side by side. And then came a massage unlike any other we’ve experienced. It was as if a Balinese dancer (or, more appropriately, a four-armed Hindu goddess) was moving her arms in all directions at once.

Most massages focus on one area at a time, starting with the right shoulder, then on to the left shoulder, followed by the lower back, then moving down to the legs… But during this massage, the masseuse would simultaneously sweep up my leg while kneading my back. She’d work on one of my shoulders while somehow massaging my arms at the same time. The massage felt holistic, especially compared to past treatments, and you never knew what was coming.

What was this magical massage technique? I wanted to know. It’s called Esalen, and those long, sweeping strokes, the stretching, the acupressure, even an exchange of energy that sounds reminiscent of reiki — it’s all part of a school of practice created in the 1960s in Big Sur, California.

Post-massage smoothie, juice and amuse-bouche

The shrimp was spicy and sweet — and delicous

Duke and Wally became obsessed with cold soups in Ubud — they’re refreshing and can be found on many menus in town

Afterward, as Duke and I enjoyed smoothies and a light lunch of chilled soup and spicy honeyed shrimp, we felt utterly recharged, ready to explore the bustling town of Ubud and its surrounding jungle.

You’d never guess that all this lies at the end of a quiet street in Ubud. Part of the appeal of Taksu is that magic of discovery, though there are plans to renovate the spa’s façade, to give a better hint at the gorgeousness just beyond. –Wally

Wally, with that post-massage glow

A refreshed and reinvigorated Duke

Taksu Spa
Jalan Goutama Selatan
Ubud, Kabupaten, Gianyar
Bali 80571
Indonesia

Kanyakumari and the Healing Waters of Cape Cormorin

A Kovalam day trip to the southern tip of India will wash away your sins.

The restaurants in Varkala, another day trip from Kovalam, put their fresh catches on display

Who wouldn’t want the opportunity to spiritually cleanse themselves with a quick dip?

Our friend Kelly visited the beach town of Kovalam in the state of Kerala, India. Her new friends from a yoga retreat kept talking about a day trip to the southern tip of the county and bathing in the spiritually healing waters found there.

“I took one look, and said, “I’m going to get like 15 different flesh-eating bacteria if I go into this water.” ”

Kanyakumari is where three bodies of water meet: the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. The spot is also referred as Thriveni Sangamam and amongst English speakers as Cape Comorin. It’s about a two-hour and 45-minute drive down from Kovalam. –Wally

Tell us about the day trips you took from Kovalam.

We went to Varkala, which is an hour and a half north of Kovalam. It has a similar vibe, but it skews much younger. Kovalam seems like a place where older people come to retreat.

Varkala has a similar beachy, hippie vibe as Kovalam but skews younger

We also went to the southern tip of India, Kanyakumari. We visited Suchindram Temple and a couple other touristy things. The temple was white and had seven windows to symbolize the different stages of enlightenment.

Include Suchindram Temple on a day trip to Kanyakumari

There’s this idea that if you bathe in the waters of Kanyakumari, you’ll be cleansed of your sins. I was with a bunch of super granola, hardcore yogis, and they were so all about getting in this water. I took one look, and said, “I’m going to get like 15 different flesh-eating bacteria if I go into this water.” There were tons of people there, and the water smelled bad.

The Thiruvalluvar Statue on a small island off of Kanyakumari depicts a famous Tamil poet and philosopher. He is best known for Thirukkural, a collection of couplets on ethics, politics, economics and love. His statue is 133 feet tall — the same number of chapters in his famous tome

So you didn’t end up getting in the water?

Well…they ended up talking me in. Very reluctantly, I finally got in.

Three bodies of water converge at Kanyakumari, and local lore has it that you can wash away your sins by swimming here

That’s called hippie peer pressure.

I wouldn’t put my head in. They were like, “No, you have to — otherwise your sins won’t be cleansed!” And I was like, “I’m good.”

We were pretty much the only white tourists there. A large crowd of men gathered around the area where my friends and I were bathing. People were taking videos and photos.

Did you find that people were fascinated with you as a white woman?

Everyone wanted to take a selfie with me. I’m on so many random people’s cell phones and Facebook pages.

At one point, I decided that I was sick of everybody looking at us, so I took pictures of them.

Ayurvedic Treatment in Kovalam

Our correspondent undergoes bizarre and intense Ayurveda practices in South India.

Ayurveda treatments often involve an oil that smells like peanut butter, and they can be quite intense

The more I heard about Ayurveda, the more intrigued I became. Why the heck isn’t this a major trend here in the United States, like yoga, acupuncture, or heck, even cupping? Could someone please inform Gwyneth Paltrow she needs to start a new fad?

Our friend Kelly went off to India to attend a yoga retreat to break out of a rut in her practice. While in the beach town of Kovalam in the southern state of Kerala, she also investigated Ayurvedic treatments.

“Yoga and Ayurveda are sister sciences,” Kelly told us. Here she describes her intense Ayurvedic treatment during her stay in India.

“You would lay down on a table and have this oil receptacle that was hung by a chain. A woman would slowly drizzle oil over your forehead, back and forth, for 20 minutes at a time.”

The quality of your hair, how oily or dry your skin is, how cold or hot you get — all of these factor into what your dosha is

What exactly is Ayurveda?

Ayurveda is the practice of balancing your body’s natural constitution, also known as your dosha. Everyone is one of three doshas: vata, pitta and kapha. They’re aligned to different elements. I’m a pitta dosha, so I have certain imbalances in my body that Ayurveda tries to correct.

The doctor did an assessment. Your dosha is made up of physical traits as well as personality characteristics. As a pitta dosha, I’m supposed to eat cooling foods. There’s a whole diet I’m supposed to follow.

The three doshas at the center of the star are aligned with different elements and characteristics

What was the facility like?

I went to two. The first one was super sketch. I went twice and decided it was maybe violating some child labor practices. The second facility was a proper one. It was beautiful inside — a huge wooden, three- or four-story hospital.

Describe the Ayurvedic treatments.

If you want treatment, you have to sign up for a minimum of 10 days. Every day I went for about three hours. The way that it broke down was, they would do a massage for an hour, and then a variety of treatments, depending on where I was in the Ayurveda course.

There was a treatment where they would take cotton cloths filled with herbed powder that they would dip in really hot oil and smack all over my body. Smack, smack, smack, smack!

The Ayurvedic oil they used smelled like peanut butter. The oil is believed to cure basically everything, so they use it in almost all of their treatments.

After that, they would do a powder massage rub. There were three women who would work on you together, in unison.

There were baths with this milk substance, which they’d heat and pour over you again and again. There were herbed water baths. There was this one treatment where there was a wooden pillar with a hanging oil receptacle. You would lay down on the table and you’d have this oil receptacle that was hung by a chain, and the woman would slowly drizzle it over your forehead, creating a line, back and forth, for 20 minutes at a time.

What was that like?

It was very relaxing — but a lot of the treatments were actually very stressful, especially after 10 days.

There a bunch of quizzes you can take to determine what dosha you are. I’ve taken a few — and gotten varying answers. I also tend to get dual prakriti, which signifies that I’m influenced by two doshas. From what Kelly has said, that means I’m a big ol’ mess. –Wally

Yoga Escape in Kovalam, India

Experiencing Ashtanga yoga classes in Kerala taught by David Garrigues.

The Ashtanga yoga studio in the beach town of Kovalam, where Kelly began each day

Our friend Kelly, a delightful, brave young woman, went off to India on a whim to join a yoga retreat run by David Garrigues.

The town of Kovalam charmed Kelly — you can read about its strange walled-in sidewalks and the quirky treehouse-like B&B she stayed in here. –Wally

“We do yoga to understand God and prepare ourselves for enlightenment.”

Our fearless adventurer, who had a major breakthrough in her yoga practice during her two-week stay in India

What brought you to Kovalam?

I went to practice yoga. I had been thinking about going to India for a few years, since I started practicing. I was kinda stuck in a rut with my yoga practice. I hadn’t been progressing, and I decided a good way to get out of it would be to go to India.

Why India?

That’s the birthplace of yoga. That’s where the Ashtanga tradition is from —  it originated in Mysore, India. Ashtanga yoga is basically a set number of postures in each of the six series. It’s super traditional. You do it every morning.

I didn’t end up going to Mysore, but I did practice with David Garrigues, a prominent Ashtanga teacher, in the South of India, in Kovalam. He’s based in Philadelphia but has been traveling around a lot.

It was one of those spur-of-the-moment things — though I don’t know if most people do a spur-of-the-moment thing with India. I made the decision very quickly. I booked the trip after thinking about it for about five minutes.

Sometimes you need a helping hand to move past a gatekeeper pose

What was the yoga retreat like?

Every morning, I’d get up at 6 a.m. and do yoga for about two hours. Sometimes there were sutra classes, or we’d go back in the afternoon for an asana [yoga postures] theory class.

What was interesting is I had a lot of challenges with my body over the two weeks I was there. I was in a program that was pretty physically demanding. At the same time, I was getting my body worked on three hours a day at an Ayurvedic clinic. And so the whole time I was there, I was intensely aware of the experience of being in a body. I would feel more frustrated when I couldn’t do a yoga pose. It felt more emotional than it usually does.

But by the second week, I was doing poses that I could never do. That’s a big deal in Ashtanga because in order to move to the next posture in the series, you have to be able to do the one preceding it. People get stuck at what are called gatekeeper poses. I was stuck at Marichyasana D. It’s basically a really deep twist, where you bind behind your knee. I broke through that, with an assist, and I had never come close to doing it before. And I felt like crying — it was really intense emotion.

Some of the more intense asanas, or yoga postures

What appeals to you about yoga?

There are eight limbs of yoga, and asana is just one of them. It’s this all-encompassing spiritual practice to actually do yoga. There are the breathing practices, meditation and other ones. All of it ladders up to this idea that we do yoga in order to understand God and prepare ourselves for enlightenment.

It isn’t associated with any religion — that’s a common misperception. It pairs really well with Buddhism and with Hinduism, and there are definitely shared influences.

Not a bad spot for some evening yoga

How did you feel by the end of your trip?

It was the definitely healthiest I’ve ever felt in my life. I was not ready to come back. I wanted to stay.

---

Kovalam: A Hippie Haven in Kerala

This small beach town in South India isn’t your typical Indian experience — but it has its own intensity.

A stay in Kovalam isn’t your typical Indian experience. As a beach town, it’s much more laidback

Most people who travel to India don’t do so on a whim. But Kelly was at an impasse in her yoga practice and sought a spiritual kickstart. So when she saw that David Garrigues, a yoga instructor she admires, would be in a small beach town in the South of India, not five minutes had passed before she had booked her ticket.

Here Kelly shares her life-changing Indian spirit journey. –Wally

Kelly had a magical time on her solo adventure in Kovalam

“In Kovalam, all of the sidewalks have very high walls built up around them. If you are passing someone, and they don’t turn their body, you will touch them. That is how tight the space is.”

All sorts of interesting people flock to Kovalam for its beaches and focus on wellness

Tell us about Kovalam.

It’s a small town on the beach, but super touristy. Apparently, Kovalam used to be this hippie haven. I remember on my second day there, I was sitting in this restaurant overlooking the ocean and looking around and being like, What are all these random people doing here at the edge of the world? You have these old ladies from Russia who are decked out in all of this costume jewelry, and you have the beautiful, sleek yogis and the Brazilians who are there backpacking through India, and it just seemed like such a strange group of people who had gathered there.

Hints of the chaos of India slip into even this idyllic town

The other thing that struck me was the overwhelming sense of anonymity. This was a place I could navigate as my true self versus the self that I have cultivated here with my friends and work.

Most of the locals spoke English, which I didn’t expect. I’ve heard a lot about India, but I think the experience of this town was a lot different. Though I will say there was a certain amount of chaos — leaving the airport in Trivandrum and getting to Kovalam was insane: people on rickshaws and bikes weaving in and out of traffic.

It seemed like everything was in a different stage of being constructed or being torn down. And there were people burning garbage, fires lining the street, and all this new construction, and in front of that, there’d be old men in loincloths selling fruit. It was this bizarre mix of new construction and old tradition.

Johny’s Beach House is like staying in a treehouse

Where did you stay in Kovalam?

I stayed at a place called Johny’s Beach House. It was like stepping into a jungle. It’s only four rooms. But he has this huge garden — there are literally monkeys that will climb through the trees there.

Johny himself — his warm heart is why his B&B is a top-rated place to stay in Kovalam

The garden at Johny’s is filled with lush greenery — and the occasional monkey

Johny built Johny’s Beach House, this hilarious, quirky treehouse, four years ago and he’s been running it ever since. He comes from this really small village and worked his way up in the tourism industry in Kovalam and now he’s the highest-rated place to stay. Which all of the other hotels are really baffled by because they don’t understand why this tiny little treehouse four-bedroom B&B is the top-rated place. But the thing is, when people stay there, they aren’t rating the B&B itself — they’re rating Johny, because he is such a personality, with this quirky sense of humor and is super engaging and really creative. That is his space, and it’s completely a representation of him.

Breakfast at Johny’s

Every morning Johny would make me this porridge with bananas and cardamom and different nuts when I’d get back from yoga. And I’d eat it on my balcony and read my yoga books. It was beautiful.

Did you ever feel unsafe in Kovalam?

There was only one time. I was coming home late. In Kovalam, the way that the town is structured — all of the sidewalks have very high walls built up around them. I bet they’re 7-foot walls. If you are passing someone, and they don’t turn their body, you will touch them. That is how tight the space is.

That was the challenge: getting anywhere. Google Maps doesn’t have all those tiny twists and turns, so I would literally allot 40 minutes to get to a place because I was like a mouse in the middle of a maze — even if it was a 5-minute walk away. Because the sidewalks were built around the homes, there would be dead ends; the sidewalk would turn into a dirt path that would go into somebody’s house. I got lost a bunch of times and one time had to be rescued.

It’s actually sad. Johnny told me that as the tourism industry took off in Kovalam, a lot of these hotels and restaurants and visitor homes built up the walls to prevent locals from entering their properties. And so in way, it was this discriminatory measure, to appeal more to the tourists.

It was a problem if you were coming toward a group of men and they didn’t make any sign of moving. That happened a few times, and it’s very intentional — people do that on purpose with women.

A strange encounter in the walled labyrinthine sidewalks in Kovalam

There was one time I was coming home late. There was a little dog I made friends with while I was there and it hung out outside of Johny’s Beach House and it would follow me around everywhere. I would go find it in the morning and he would follow me to the market or the beach. So he was my little buddy for two weeks.

This little fella followed Kelly everywhere she went in Kovalam and acted as her guard dog

Did you name the doggie?

He was just little Sweeters. So this one night I was walking home and there was a drunk man who I think was maybe following me. I don’t know exactly what happened, but I was starting to get that danger feeling, and a few moments later, I heard the dog start growling. Sweeters was snapping at the man. So I ran to the gate, opened it really fast and shut it.

What was it like being in such a small town?

Everyone watched your every move. The locals would ask, “Where are you from? Where are you staying? What are you doing?” And then they’d track me. They’d say, “Oh, I saw that you were at the blah-blah-blah the other day.” Or I’d meet somebody at a restaurant and they’d say, “You’re studying with David.” Everyone knew everyone’s business, which was really crazy.

People would ask me, “Are you married? Do you have a boyfriend?” It was very intrusive.

You’ll see offering bowls, like this one at Johny’s Beach House, all over Kerala

What was the most interesting Indian custom you encountered?

I really like the head bob. I had to ask Johny, “What does this mean?” And he was like, “Sometimes it means yes. Sometimes it means no. Sometimes it means they didn’t understand what you said.” And I was like, “Oh, that clears it up. Thanks.”

But I also found myself kind of doing it.

Because Johny and I became friends, I was able to do a lot of things I wouldn’t have been able to as a tourist. I spent a lot of time on the back of Johny’s motorbike, clinging on for dear life, struggling to breathe through the pollution. But it was like seeing this area through the eyes of a local.

We went to this really bizarre restaurant in Trivandrum. It seemed like this restaurant was a converted version of a twisty parking garage ramp. There are all these booths along the far wall as the restaurant spirals upward. I guess it’s the place to go in Trivandrum if you want coffee or dosa, which is like a crepe.

Kelly likes to play with her food, as seen on this houseboat restaurant

What was the food like in Kerala?

I’m obsessed with food. But surprisingly, I was underwhelmed.

The yoga studio that I go to in Chicago, the owner was coincidentally in Kovalam at the same time, doing a completely separate retreat. So I spent a lot of time with his people, and he had a house and has been going there for 20 years. He knows everything about Kovalam. And he had a neighbor friend, this woman, who made all of this food for us for our final meal. It was thali [the Indian version of tapas] served on a banana leaf — it was definitely the best meal that I had.

Thali, presented on this banana leaf, consists of small bites of different dishes, much like tapas

“Kelly: What does the head bob mean?

Johny: Sometimes it means yes. Sometimes it means no. Sometimes it means they didn’t understand what you said.

Kelly: Oh, that clears it up. Thanks.”