Off the Beaten Path: Discovering Cambodia’s Lesser-Known Destinations

Escape the crowds at Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh and discover Cambodia’s hidden treasures in Battambang, Mondulkiri, Koh Rong Samloem, Kratie and Kep. Pristine beaches, colonial charms, wildlife, waterfalls, crab dishes — and the bamboo train — await adventurous travelers. 

Angkor Wat is an astounding experience — but if you want to escape the crowds, there are many other amazing adventures to be had in Cambodia.

Cambodia is an enchanting country to visit, where ancient temples, lush landscapes and warm hospitality await. 

While popular destinations like Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat draw crowds of tourists each year, there are various lesser-known areas that offer an authentic Cambodian experience. Discover some of Cambodia’s hidden gems — where you can escape the tourist crowds and immerse yourself in the true essence of this captivating country.

But first things first. Unless you live in one of eight neighboring nations in Southeast Asia, Cambodia requires a visa to enter. Apply for your visa today and start planning your trip.

With its colonial-era charm, Battambang has a wealth of attractions both within the city limits and beyond.

Battambang: A Charming City With a Rich Colonial History

Nestled in the northwest region of Cambodia is the charming city of Battambang. It’s known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, like Sala Khaet, the former governor’s residence, which stands on the west bank of the Sangkae River. It was commissioned by the last Thai governor of Battambang in 1905 and used by the French until 1953, when Cambodia became independent.

Another notable heritage building is the bright yellow National Bank of Cambodia, a fully restored villa that previously housed a pawn shop and radio station.

If you’re a history buff, you’ll definitely want to check out the Battambang Provincial Museum. This well-curated museum contains a collection of artifacts from the surrounding Ankorian-era temples, including lintels and statuary. 

Hire a tuk-tuk, a motorized rickshaw, and head six miles north of the city center to the ruins of Wat Ek Phnom, an 11th century Hindu temple with sandstone carvings built during the reign of King Suryavarman I. The relief on the temple’s central tower depicts the mythic Churning of the Ocean of Milk — an epic tug-of-war between the gods, demons and a serpent in a battle to obtain the elixir of immortality.

Plus, there’s a towering seated Buddha statue and an active Buddhist temple on the grounds. Its interior features serialized paintings that cover the walls and ceiling, telling the Buddha’s life story. 

The super-cool ruins of Wat Ek Phnom, an ancient Hindu temple

A newer temple stands on the grounds of Wat Ek Phnom.

Looking for a thrill? Take a ride on the famous norry, or bamboo train, an unusual mode of transportation. People, rice and livestock are shuttled back and forth on squat wooden platforms placed on top of a wheeled metal carriage and powered by a small engine. The train cruises along an old track at about 35 mph, offering breathtaking views of the countryside. You’ll pay $5 per person to the villagers operating the train once you reach your destination. It’s a small price to pay for a unique and thrilling experience!

If you’re in Battambang, you’ve gotta take a ride on the bamboo train!

If you’re hungry after a day of exploring the city and its surroundings, try the regional specialty mee kola. It’s a delicious dish of stir-fried rice noodles and soy sauce, served with papaya, cucumber, pickles, bean sprouts, other vegetables, fragrant herbs and crushed peanuts.

The serene riverside setting and relaxed atmosphere make Battambang an ideal place to unwind and experience the authentic side of Cambodia. 

How to get there: Battambang is a three-hour drive west of Siem Reap, or a 90-minute boat ride across Tonlé Sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia.

---

RELATED: See the amazing floating villages of Tonlé Sap!

---

Bou Sra Waterfall

Mondulkiri: An Off-the-Beaten-Path Outdoor Adventure

The remote province of Mondulkiri in eastern Cambodia is home to breathtaking waterfalls, lush jungles and rolling hills. Trek through the picturesque landscape and encounter the wildlife, including gibbons and elephants. 

For a truly authentic experience, take a tour of a Bunong hill tribe village with a local guide. Learn about their agricultural fields, spirit forests and burial grounds, all of which are living places of social, spiritual and historical importance.

Take a tour of a Bunong hill tribe village and learn about their customs.

Looking for a relaxing day in the great outdoors? Hire a tuk-tuk for the day and head to Bou Sra Waterfall, 31 miles (50 kilometers) outside of Sen Monorom. Pack a lunch to go and enjoy a picnic in the shade of the trees. After lunch, cool off in the pools beneath the upper waterfall. Even if you don’t take the plunge, the spray from the waterfall is a great way to cool down on a hot day. 

If you’re feeling more adventurous, try the Mayura Zipline. This seven-zipline course takes you as high as 500 feet (150 meters) above the waterfall — that’s the equivalent of a 45-story building! — making it one of the highest ziplines in Asia. Soar through the jungle canopy and get a bird’s-eye view of the waterfall.

Brave souls can zipline 500 feet above the waterfall!

The Elephant Valley Project (EVP) is a nonprofit organization that rescues and rehabilitates retired Asian elephants. They work to protect these pachyderms by allowing them to roam freely within a 1,200-hectare habitat, while providing medical care. Day trips to the sanctuary usually involve two walks through the forest, learning about these amazing creatures and enjoying a buffet lunch overlooking the forest canopy.

Two of the well-cared-for members of the Elephant Valley Project sanctuary family

EVP is a great place to learn about elephants and their conservation. You’ll get to see them up close and personal, and learn about their natural behaviors — as well as have the opportunity to support their care and rehabilitation.

How to get there: Mondulkiri is a five-and-a-half-hour drive northeast of Phnom Penh. You can hire a taxi or take an express bus or minivan.

---

RELATED: Why Elephant Tourism Is Evil

---

Literally escape from it all at the untouched island of Koh Rong Samloem.

Koh Rong Samloem: An Unspoiled Tropical Paradise 

Have you ever dreamed of escaping to a secluded island? With a bit of planning, you can! Koh Rong Samloem, a small island 14 miles (23 kilometers) off the southwest coast of Cambodia, is the perfect getaway. Unlike its more developed neighbor, Koh Rong, this island remains largely unspoiled and untouched.

Here, you can lounge on pristine white sand beaches and enjoy a cocktail or two. Go snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters and explore vibrant coral reefs. And at night, head back to the beach to witness amazing bioluminescent plankton. 

Just look at the crystal-clear water and those colorful fish!

Head back to the beach at night to see breathtaking blue bioluminescent plankton washing ashore.

How to get there: Heads up: The only way to get to Koh Rong Samloem is via a one-and-a-half-hour ferry ride from Sihanoukville. If you’re staying in Siem Reap, you can take a 50-minute direct flight to Sihanouk International Airport. From there, you can hail a tuk-tuk or taxi to take you to the ferry terminal. Alternatively, you can take a six-or-so-hour bus ride or private taxi from Phnom Penh.

While in Kratie, you have to look out for the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins.

Kratie: A Gem on the Mekong River

Situated along the banks of the Mekong, Kratie is a small town known for its incredible wildlife — most notably, the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins. Take a boat tour to observe these gentle creatures in their natural habitat for a truly magical experience.

You can also rent a bike and explore the peaceful countryside to admire the sleepy villages, traditional stilt houses, rice fields and lotus farms. Be sure to visit Wat Sorsor Muoy Roy, the 100-Column Pagoda. Then, grab a beer and watch one of the epic Mekong sunsets. 

Kratie offers a glimpse into rural Cambodian life and a chance to witness the wonders of nature up close. 

How to get there: Kratie is 149 miles (240 kilometers) north of Phnom Penh, and is roughly a four-hour drive from there. 

Relax on the beach in the seaside town of Kep.

Kep: A Coastal Delight

For a blend of coastal beauty and culinary delights, head to Kep, a charming seaside town located in southern Cambodia. Known for its fresh seafood, Kep is a paradise for any foodie. Expect an abundance of fresh shrimp and mouth-watering crab (try it with Kampot pepper), while enjoying unforgettable views of the Gulf of Thailand. 

Try the most popular local dish, Kampot pepper crab.

Explore the lush jungle trails of Kep National Park, hike to the gorgeous Kep Beach or visit the iconic abandoned villas that showcase the rich history of the old colonial beach resort.

Before or after heading into the park, be sure to stop in Led Zep Café, a short distance from the park entrance. They offer maps and snacks for hikers, as well as delicious crepes and sandwiches for anyone looking for a quiet lunch spot with a nice view.

Return to Kep and visit Sothy’s Pepper Farm to learn how the rare Kampot peppercorn is produced — considered by many to be the finest pepper in the world. It’s named after its region of production, just like Vidalia onions, Bourbon whiskey and Roquefort cheese.

How to get there: Kampot is 14 miles (22 kilometers) from Kep, or a 30-minute tuk-tuk ride.

The Hidden Gems of Cambodia 

Cambodia is a treasure trove of amazing sites just waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re seeking natural beauty, relaxation, cultural immersion or just to get away from the crowds, the lesser-known areas of Cambodia offer a truly authentic experience. –Sally Giles

4 Spectacular Historical Monuments in India — Besides the Taj Mahal

Take a tour of some lesser-known but utterly awesome temples across India: the Golden Temple of Amritsar, Meenakshi Temple, Palitana Temples and Birla Mandir.  

The majestic entrance to the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It’s time for the Taj Mahal to stop hogging the spotlight.

Ask anyone to name one thing they know about India and you’re likely to hear the same thing every time: the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is beautiful — but isn’t by any means the only impressive site to see in India.

Built between 1631 and 1648 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a testament to his love for his favorite wife, this iconic tourist attraction is as synonymous with India as the Eiffel Tower is with Paris, and Big Ben is with London. But amidst the understandable fanfare, travelers to India may be overlooking a host of other exciting historical monuments.

Here are four of the most beautiful and culturally significant locations in India — other than that famous marble mausoleum. One thing all these sites have in common: They’re some of the most underappreciated monuments in the country.

The Golden Temple

Location: Amritsar, Punjab

History: Completed in 1589, this iconic structure stands as a symbol of immense significance for Sikhism. As the name suggests, the temple is adorned with a resplendent golden coating — at least since 1830, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh overlaid the sanctum with gold leaf. Located in the city of Amritsar, the Golden Temple is surrounded by the tranquil Sarovar, a sacred pool of holy water.

Why it’s so cool: The temple’s exquisite architecture and serene ambiance pair with harmonious prayers and hymns to create a soul-stirring experience. 

Fun fact: The Golden Temple is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of equality and community service. The temple houses the world’s largest community kitchen, called the Langar, where volunteers serve free meals to thousands of visitors daily, regardless of their caste, religion or social status. This inspiring tradition embodies the core values of Sikhism, emphasizing equality, compassion and selfless service.

Travel tip: Consider joining one of the escorted tours that traverse the northern regions of India. Amritsar is well-connected and can be easily reached by various means of transportation. 

While visiting the Golden Temple, it’s advised to dress modestly and for women to cover their head as a sign of respect. Before entering the temple complex, take a moment to cleanse your feet at the designated washing area as a ritualistic purification.

Meenakshi Temple

Location: Madurai, Tamil Nadu

History: Step into a world where ancient legends and vibrant hues intertwine at the awe-inspiring Meenakshi Temple. The roots of this remarkable monument stretch back to the 6th century, when an ancient temple first graced this sacred site. Between 1190 and 1205, the current Meenakshi Temple was built, incorporating and expanding upon its historical foundations. 

Why it’s so cool: While the Taj is serene and understated, Meenakshi has an enchanting kaleidoscope of colors that adorn its 14 gopurams. These towering pyramidal structures, perched over the temple entrances, are resplendent with 3,000-some intricate carvings and statues, from celestial deities to mythical creatures.

Fun fact: The temple is not only dedicated to Meenakshi (an avatar of Parvati, the Hindu goddess of love, beauty and fertility), but also Sundareshwarar, an avatar of her consort, Lord Shiva. The complex houses shrines for both deities, symbolizing the divine union of feminine and masculine energies.

Travel tip: From Madurai Junction Railway Station, it’s a 10-minute walk to the temple grounds. Again, dress respectfully. Consider engaging a guide who can illuminate the temple’s fascinating history, legends and the symbolic significance behind its vibrant colors.

Palitana Temples

Location: Shatrunjaya hills near Palitana in Bhavnagar district, Gujarat

History: Nestled amidst the hills of Gujarat, the Palitana Temples comprise a colossal collection of over 800 sacred buildings that dot the mountainous landscape. These temples, built around the 11th century, hold immense significance for followers of Jainism, drawing thousands of pilgrims from around the world who embark on a spiritual journey of devotion and enlightenment.

Why they’re so cool: Prepare to be awestruck by the sheer magnitude of the Palitana Temples, as they create an ethereal landscape of spirituality and architectural splendor. The journey to these sacred shrines is a testament to the unwavering faith of Jain followers, who ascend a staggering 3,500 steps to reach the base of the temples. The sight of hundreds of temples scattered across the hills creates a mesmerizing panorama that is truly awe-inspiring.

Fun fact: Palitana holds the distinction of being the world’s largest cluster of Jain temples. This extraordinary complex is a sanctuary for Jain devotees, with each temple showcasing intricate carvings, vibrant colors, and architectural marvels. The temples serve as a testament to the spiritual devotion of the Jain community and provide a serene sanctuary for introspection and reverence.

Travel tip: The temples can be conveniently accessed by taking the Western Railway line from major cities like Delhi, Chennai and Kolkata. The nearest cities, Ahmedabad and Bhavnagar, located approximately 25 kilometers away, offer transportation connections to Palitana. 

Be prepared for the ascent to the temples by wearing comfortable shoes and carrying water. If climbing the stairs is not an option, you can hire a palanquin in the town at the base of the hills and get carried up. 

Birla Mandir Kolkata

Location: Ashutosh Chowdhury Avenue, Kolkata, West Bengal

History: The illustrious Birla family commissioned the temple, which was constructed from 1970 to 1996. Carved out of pristine white marble and sandstone, this architectural gem emanates a celestial radiance when the midday sun casts its rays upon it. A symbol of devotion and artistic brilliance, Birla Mandir stands as another testament to India’s rich religious heritage.

Why it’s so cool: Venture inside to discover a realm of intricate statues and carvings dedicated to Hindu avatars of the god Vishnu, such as Lord Krishna and Radha. The exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail bring these divine figures to life, evoking a sense of reverence and spiritual tranquility.

Fun fact: Across India, there are 14 temples bearing the name Birla Mandir. Each is a testament to the philanthropic efforts of the Birla family, who have contributed significantly to the construction of these sacred spaces. However, the Kolkata Mandir stands out as a pinnacle of aesthetic beauty. Just make sure you’re planning to visit the right one!

Travel tip: You can easily reach the temple by taxi or bus tour from the city. Remember to dress modestly when entering the temple. And be aware that the temple is closed for much of the day. Go early or go late: It opens from 5:30 a.m. to 11 a.m., then closes. It reopens in the evening, from 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. 

A carving of Virabhadra, a fierce form of the god Shiva, as part of the crowded and colorful façade of Meenakshi Temple

India, Beyond the Taj Mahal

While I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing the majestic beauty of the Taj Mahal during your sojourn in India, turning a blind eye to these other captivating destinations would be nothing short of a crime. These lesser-known gems deserve a spot on your travel bucket list. –Andrew Ellison

The Beautiful Bahai Temple in Chicago

What is Baha’i? What’s the history of the Baha’i Temple in Wilmette, Illinois?

The beauty of the Bahai’i Temple makes Wally jump for joy.

Those of us who live in the Chicago area are familiar with the Baha’i Temple — though most know nothing about the religion itself. We’ve seen glimpses of the structure on the North Shore and have been drawn to it, where we discover that it’s a gorgeous building that makes for a pleasant visit to spend a short time wandering its gardens and admiring its intricate stonework. 

Which is exactly what we did one weekend with our friend Kate during the COVID-19 pandemic. We weren’t able to go inside the temple, but to be honest that’s not too big a disappointment. The interior isn’t all that impressive — a large, open space that’s unadorned, in stark contrast to the ornate exterior. OK, the interior of the dome is gorgeous. But that’s the extent of the beauty inside, I promise. 

“The Earth is but one country, and mankind its citizens.”

— Bahá’ulláh, founder of Bahá’í

An illuminated manuscript of Baha’u’llah’s writings that was presented to the British Museum in 1913

What is the Bahá’í religion?

It’s a relatively new faith, having emerged in the Middle East in the 1840s. A Persian teacher known as Bahá’ulláh preached a religion founded on the principles of peace, equality and the unity of humankind. Sounds nice, doesn’t it? 

Bahá’ulláh, the founder of the Baha’i faith, might look stern — but he was really all about peace, love and understanding.

To Baha’is, the soul is eternal and should be illuminated by focusing on kindness, generosity, integrity, truthfulness, humility and selflessness. That’s exactly what this world needs more of, if you ask me.

At a Parliament of the World’s Religions meeting in Chicago in 1893, the United States was introduced to Baha’i. (By the way, it’s pronounced “Buh-high.”) Despite being proclaimed as one of the world’s fastest growing religions, it never caught on big time, and I’d wager that most Americans aren’t familiar with the faith. 

But by 1900, there were about 1,000 Baha’is living in the U.S. and Canada. Worldwide, the faith’s adherents now number around 5 million.

Duke and Wally spent a pleasant day with their friend Kate, circling (and admiring) the Baha’i Temple.

Do they have a prophet or savior like Mohammed or Jesus?

Like Muslims, the Baha’i believe that Mohammed, as well as Jesus (along with Abraham, Moses, Buddha, Krishna and Zoroaster, for that matter) was a prophet — just not God’s final prophet. Divine revelation, to them, is not final but ongoing; there will be other prophets in the future. Maybe the next one will be female.

The Baha’i faith sees all people as equal — a view that doesn’t fit with conservative Islam — and has led to persecution since its inception.

How have Baha’i been treated over the years?

It’s sad that a religion that preaches acceptance has suffered so much oppression and violence. Perhaps it’s telling that no temple exists in Iran, the birthplace of the faith. The Baha’i messages of religious tolerance, gender equality, universal education, and elimination of all prejudice and racism don’t jibe well with many conservative religious entities, and the faith is viewed as a heretical branch of Islam. As such, countries including Yemen, Egypt and Afghanistan have persecuted and imprisoned Baha’is on the sole grounds of their beliefs. And Iran has a history of torturing and killing Baha’is, closing their schools, banning their literature, and denying their rights and marriages.

Worship for Baha’is is very personal and freeform, devoid of rituals and clergy.

What is worship like for Baha’i?

The freeform, personal worship certainly won’t appeal to everyone, especially those who find comfort in religious rituals. My ex became interested in Baha’i, but the lack of any sort of pomp and circumstance never appealed to me. I have always been more drawn to Wicca, which has a similar acceptance of all faiths, seeing them as symbols, but has the flair of magic spells.

In keeping with the Baha’i philosophy of egalitarianism, everyone is welcome at their temples, and there isn’t any clergy. Ceremonies happen on only a few holy days each year. Typical worship consists of sitting there quietly, praying or meditating on your own. 

It’s also encouraged to get involved in social projects in your community. 

The COVID pandemic meant most people had to stay closer to home, so Wally and Duke headed up to give the Baha’i Temple another visit.

What is the Chicago Baha’i Temple’s history?

It began with the purchase of a couple of plots of land along Lake Michigan in 1907, north of Chicago in what is now the town of Wilmette. Because it was funded by individual contributions, the project was delayed, much like Gaudí’s La Sagrada Família cathedral in Barcelona, Spain (which is still being built, by the way). The Chicago Baha’i Temple was further held up by the two World Wars and the Great Depression. The foundation stone was laid in 1920 and construction ended with the temple’s formal dedication in 1953. 

The temple was built from 1920 to 1953 and is composed of a variety of architectural styles.

Who designed the Chicago Baha’i Temple?

Louis Bourgeois, a French Canadian who had been a Baha’i for over a decade at the time, got the commission. He wanted the building’s design to reflect the beliefs of the faith: the oneness of humanity and the unity of all religions. To really run with this symbolism, he designed a conglomerate of various architectural styles: Neoclassical symmetry, Gothic ribbing, a Renaissance dome, Romanesque clerestory and Islamic arabesques on pillars that hint at minarets. And while that sounds like an unpleasing Frankensteinian mishmash, it somehow all comes together gracefully.

The carvings on the nine pillars feature symbols of the world’s biggest religions: the Christian cross, the Jewish Star of David, the Islamic star and crescent moon — even the swastika of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. 

That swastika causes a lot of controversy — but that’s just because people don’t understand that Buddhists and Hindus have used that symbol long before the Nazis co-opted it.

Bourgeois’ vision was to create “a gathering place for all humanity.” When describing his design, the architect said, “There are combinations of mathematical lines, symbolizing those of the universe, and in their intricate merging of circle into circle, and circle within circle, we visualize the merging of all religions into one.”

Ornate scrollwork depicting symbols from major world religions covers the building’s façade.

What’s with the repetition of the number nine?

To a Baha’i, nine is the most sacred number. As the highest single digit, it’s a potent symbol of comprehensiveness as well as unity. In addition to the nine columns, there are nine entrances, nine verses above the doors and alcoves and nine fountains. 

Each column is topped by a nine-pointed star, the symbol of Baha’i.

The nine columns around the exterior are each topped with a nine-pointed star, the symbol of the Baha’i faith.

Small pools and fountains surround the Baha’i Temple.

How many Baha’i temples are there?

The original idea was to have one house of worship on each inhabited continent (sorry about your luck, Antarctica), and the one in Wilmette, known as the Mother Temple of the West, remains the only one in North America. It’s also the oldest Baha’i temple in the world. (The first temple was built in Ashkhabad, modern-day Turkmenistan, in 1908 but was commandeered by the Soviets and later badly damaged by an earthquake before being demolished in 1963.)

The temple outside of Chicago is the only one on the continent and is supposed to serve all of North America.

Here’s a list of Baha’i temples around the world:

• Wilmette, USA

• Santiago, Chile

• Panama City, Panama

• Kampala, Uganda

• Langenhain, Germany

• Sydney, Australia

• Apia, Western Samoa

• New Delhi, India

Other national or local Baha’i houses of worship are planned for the Democratic Republic of Congo, Papua New Guinea, Cambodia, India, Kenya, Colombia and Vanuatu.

If you’re in the Chicago area, consider a trip north of the city to visit the Baha’i Temple.

What about the gardens?

The gardens are an essential design element at all the temples. There’s one in front of each of the nine entrances to the temple, featuring rectangular as well as rounded elements, revealing influences both Western and Eastern.

Wandering through the gardens with our friend Kate, we kept circling the temple, admiring its beauty. The circumambulation can be meditative.

Who’d have thought that the delicate beauty of the Baha’i Temple was achieved using concrete?!

What is the Chicago temple made of?

Would you believe that various materials were suggested, including limestone, granite, terracotta and even aluminum, before they decided upon concrete?

This didn’t go over so well, as people feared the material lacked beauty. But a fifth-generation stone carver named John Earley devised a technique inspired by Italian mosaics. He exposed the larger pebbles in the aggregate of the mixture, which gave the concrete an unusual warmth. And when you see the final product nowadays, there’s no denying its lacelike beauty that seems to glow, earning its nickname as the Temple of Light and Unity.

Sadly, neither Bourgeois nor Earley lived to see the temple’s completion. –Wally

Kate wasn’t the biggest fan of this shot. “It looks like you’re in front of some office building,” she said. Wally looked at the pic and replied, “That’s some office building!”

Bahá'í House of Worship
100 Lindon Ave.
Wilmette, IL 60091

 

Ancient Egyptian Words You Should Know

Do you know your ba from your ka? What’s a vizier? How about a cartouche? Our handy glossary of Ancient Egyptian terms will have you speaking like a pharaoh in no time.

How many Ancient Egyptian terms can you spot in this image?

The terms we use to describe the religion, history and artifacts of Ancient Egypt are a strange mishmash of words that have French, Greek, English, Arabic — and yes, sometimes even Egyptian — origins.

Talk Like an Egyptian 

As you read more about the fascinating and complex world of Ancient Egypt, it helps to familiarize yourself with the terms that come up the most often. It’s probably a good idea to bookmark this page for easy reference — especially if you’re considering a visit. 🤗 

ankh: The hieroglyphic symbol for life, similar to a cross but with a loop in place of the upper arm. It was especially popular in jewellery and on temple carvings, where it was held in the hands of deities or being given by them to the pharaoh, to represent their power to sustain life and to revive human souls in the afterlife.

atef: The atef crown was made up of the White Crown of Upper Egypt with red ostrich feathers on either side. It was worn by the god of the underworld, Osiris.

ba: The ba is, essentially, the concept of the soul. Depicted as a bird with a human head, it could leave a person’s tomb to fly about. 

barque: These thin boats that curve up at either end were the transports of the gods, especially during festival processions. In temple sanctuaries, models of barques held statues of a deity. When a pharaoh died, a barque would transport them on their way to becoming a god.

Book of the Dead: This is the modern name ascribed to a collection of 200 hymns, rituals and spells that allowed the deceased to travel safely through the underworld and enter the afterlife. Ancient Egyptians knew it as the Spells for Going Forth by Day.

canopic jars: Four containers used to store the preserved internal organs of the deceased (the lungs, stomach, liver and intestines) extracted during the mummification process. Each jar was topped with the head of one of the god Horus’ sons.

cartouche: The oval frame that surrounds the name of a king, queen or god in inscriptions.

Coffin Texts: Collected during the First Intermediate Period, around 2134-2040 BCE, these 1,185 incantations and other forms of religious writing were inscribed on coffins to help the deceased navigate the afterlife, providing maps of the underworld and the best way to avoid dangers on one’s way to paradise.

deshret (or Red Crown): The crown, with a square base that curved upward into a point and had a coil spiraling out in front, was worn by the rulers of Lower Egypt.

djed: A representation of the spine, it symbolized stability. A djed amulet was often placed in coffins, where the backbone of the deceased would lay, to ensure eternal life. During a Sed festival, the pharaoh, with the help of priests, would raise a djed column. 

Duat: The underworld, home of the gods Osiris, Anubis and Ma’at, as well as many grotesque monsters. The sun deity Ra travels through the Duat every night, where he battles the serpent Apep, or Apophis. This is where a deceased person’s soul travels for judgment. 

Eye of Horus (aka udjat eye or wedjat eye): A falcon’s eye that acts as a protective talisman and symbolizes rebirth after death. Its origins lie in a myth where the evil god Set plucks out one of his nephew Horus’ eyes. 

faience: A powdered quartz paste that ranges in color from turquoise to teal. Modeled and sometimes fired, it was commonly used for jewelry, pottery and sculptures.

hedjet (or White Crown): The crown of Upper Egypt, it’s often irreverently (but accurately) described as looking like a bowling pin.

hieroglyphs: Think of them as the emojis of their day. Often mistakenly called hieroglyphics, they make up the system of pictorial writing used in Ancient Egypt. Though they sometimes represented the actual objects they depicted, hieroglyphs usually stood for particular sounds. 

Horus name: Beginning in the Predynastic Period, pharaohs would take on an additional name, cementing their relationship with the falcon-headed god Horus. The pharaoh oversaw their entire country and, like the bird of prey, could strike at enemies below. 

hypostyle hall: The reception area of a temple. Originally, most would have had a roof over rows of densely packed columns with capitals depicting palms, papyri or lotuses to represent the lush island of creation.

ka: The best way to describe this is as a soul — it’s someone’s other self, what makes them unique. It’s with a person throughout their life, but upon death the ka and the body become separate. The body has to be preserved, and the ka nourished, or it will starve and cease to exist. It’s represented as a human with upraised arms — or just the arms raised at a 90-degree angle. 

khepresh (or Blue Crown): Often worn by pharaohs when going into war, the khepresh was a blue headpiece with a uraeus on the brow.

kohl: Black powder made from galena ore (the chief source of lead) mixed with oil and used as an eyeliner by women and men.

Lower Egypt: The Ancient Egyptian worldview was upside-down compared to ours. Lower Egypt was the northern half of Egypt, so called because the Nile flows north before entering the Mediterranean Sea. Its capital was Memphis.

ma’at (aka maat): The principle of balance and cosmic order, personified by a goddess of the same name. It was a pharaoh’s duty to rule according to ma’at.

mammisi: A birth house, where a woman would go to deliver a child and recover for two weeks or so. These chapels were often situated in front of a temple and were said to be where a god had been born.

mastaba: A type of tomb first created in the Old Kingdom. From the Arabic word for “bench,” they were rectangular and flat-roofed, with a substructure belowground. As time went on, architects stacked stories atop them, leading to step pyramids and, eventually, the triangular pyramids like those at Giza.

nemes: A striped head covering worn by pharoahs. It covered the brow and skull, hung down on the side to rest on the shoulders, and was drawn together in the back in a sort of ponytail. King Tut was a fan. 

Opening of the Mouth: A ceremony held at the tomb, where the mouth of a mummy was symbolically opened so the dead could use their senses in the afterlife.

Opet: A festival held during the inundation, or flooding of the Nile. The statue of the chief god Amun would travel upon a barque from his sanctuary at Karnak to Luxor Temple.

papyrus: The writing surface used by Egyptian scribes. Derived from the pith of the stalks of papyrus, which grew along the banks of the Nile, the plant was also used to make boats, sandals, baskets and rope. 

pectoral: An elaborate necklace that covered much of the chest.

pharaoh: The supreme ruler of Ancient Egypt. He or she (there are a few times when a woman took the throne, like the remarkable Hatshepsut) was considered a god.

pschent (or the Double Crown): A combination of the deshret and hedjet crowns, it showed that the pharaoh controlled both Lower and Upper Egypt.

pylon: A massive gateway leading into a temple. Some held rooms, like the one for the harem at Medinet Habu.

Pyramid Texts: The earliest religious texts of Ancient Egypt. These spells, religious beliefs and myths were inscribed on the walls of Fifth and Sixth Dynasty pyramids (2465-2150 BCE). They were used to magically transform the deceased into the god of the afterlife, Osiris. Composed of 2,217 spells grouped into 714 “utterances,” they gave way to the Coffin Texts.

rekhyt: A stylized lapwing bird with wings spread and human arms raised in adoration, representing the general populace or the pharaoh's subjects. When depicted on the walls of ancient temples, it signified that the public was allowed in that area. 

sarcophagus: A large stone container that held a mummy's coffin. Its name comes from the Greek sarkophagos, meaning “flesh-eater.”

Sed: A festival of rejuvenation that renewed the powers of a pharaoh, it was usually — but not always — held in their 30th year of rule.

senet: A game played in Ancient Egypt. No one knows the rules, but they think it was a bit like chess. Pieces were usually fashioned from animal bone or clay. 

shabti (also shawabti or ushabti): A small mummy statuette of a servant placed in tombs that could be magically brought to life to perform tasks for the deceased in the afterlife.

sistrum: A sacred rattle made of a wood, metal or clay frame set loosely with crossbars strung with small metal discs. It was shaken during ritual dances for the goddess Hathor and later Isis.

sphinx: A mythological beast with the body of a lion that usually had the head of a pharaoh or god. The famous one sits outside Cairo at Giza. 

stele (also stela): An upright slab of stone that served as a monument, inscribed with religious or historical text.

Upper Egypt: The southern half of the kingdom of Ancient Egypt. It’s called Upper Egypt because the Nile River flows northward, from Upper to Lower Egypt. Its capital was Thebes.

uraeus: A rearing cobra in a threatening pose that represented divine authority, worn as a crown or head ornament by Ancient Egyptian divinities and rulers. It showed that the pharaoh had the protection of the goddess Wadjet, the patroness of Lower Egypt.

vizier: The second in command after the pharaoh. The role held many responsibilities, including administration of the government, security, judgement and the safety of the empire.

was scepter: A staff that’s often forked at the bottom and topped with the head of a creature, possibly the Bennu bird, a mythological heron who wears the atef crown. Carried by gods and pharaohs, the was scepter stood for power and dominion. –Wally

The Temple of Literature in Hanoi and Its Confucius Connection

Looking for things to do in Hanoi? Walk through the five courtyards of Van Mieu and Quoc Tu Giam, Vietnam’s oldest national university. 

A pair of stone steles outside the main gates instructed everyone — even the emperor — to dismount their horses before entering the compound. It’s not as much of a concern nowadays.

One of the perks of staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is that its many attractions are within walking distance. 

En route to one of the must-see destinations, the Temple of Literature, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I passed a shop selling trendy men’s short sleeve shirts. Sadly, even an XL in Vietnam would have been too small. 

The Temple of Literature is this way — but who’s right? Wally or Vanessa?

We also passed the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long on our way to the temple. 

The Temple of Literature was built to honor Confucius, who strived to have his followers live up to their ideal selves.

Quoc Tu Giam University

Van Mieu, the temple-cum-university, is located in the Dong Da district, a leafy green neighborhood about a 35-minute walk from the Prince II Hotel, where we were staying.

The temple was originally conceived and built in 1070 to honor Chinese philosopher Confucius.

A mere six years later, Quoc Tu Giam, literally translated as the “Temple of the King Who Distinguished Literature,” was established within the complex. The prestigious academy opened in 1076 to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his 72 disciples to the royal family and elite members of society before opening its doors to bright commoners in 1253. Students accepted into Van Mieu’s Quoc Tu Giam attended for three to seven years. The curriculum was influenced by Imperial China and involved rigorous study in classical Chinese literature, poetry and penmanship. 

“The man who says he can and the man who says he can’t are both usually right.”

— Confucius

The core of Confucianism is aimed at creating the ideal man, emphasizing the disciplines of social, ethical and political conduct. It’s believed that if everyone followed these principles, the right balance would be attained, and social order would prevail. 

Five courtyards lead through the complex.

Making an Entrance: the Great Portico

One of the first things you’ll see as you approach the historic structure is the impressive two-tiered main temple gate, Van Mieu Mon. The grand portico contains three doorways. The largest is in the center and was traditionally reserved for the emperor. To the left is a stylized relief of the “Tiger of the Mountain” and to the right, the “Dragon in the Cloud.” These flank the main doorway and represent symbols of the power of the king and the success of students and past scholars. 

The second level holds a bronze bell that was rung when a notable person entered the temple complex. For some reason, it didn’t ring when we came in.

The three pathways beyond run the entire length of the complex. 

Van Mieu’s design and layout are based upon Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, located in the northeastern province of Shantung, China. Visitors take the central path, which leads to Dai Trung Mon, an open-air pavilion supported by red painted columns. Atop the middle of the roof, two carp with raised tails flank a gourd-shaped vase. 

Bonsai trees are planted in the temple grounds.

The Five Courtyards 

The Temple of Literature is divided into a total of five courtyards. Behind its high brick walls are a pair of courtyards where students would relax among the ancient trees and manicured lawns. 

In the center of the second courtyard is the Khue Van Cac, the Constellation of Literature pavilion. Khue is the name of the brightest star in the constellation of 28 in the Milky Way. The square wooden structure is supported by four white stone columns and has an elaborate terra cotta-tiled double roof. Its circular windows with spoke-like slats symbolize radiating suns. 

Well of Heavenly Clarity? More like Pond of Murky Greenness.

Muddy Waters at the Well of Heavenly Clarity

Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the Khue Van Cac and entered a third courtyard, where we found Thien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly Clarity. Ironically it’s neither clear nor a well, but rather a large basin of murky green water. 

Le Cour des Steles, as the French would say, as it was back in 1890

A similar shot of the Well of Heavenly Clarity, this one from the 1970s

Thien Quang Tinh and the Doctors’ Steles

Two great halls stand to either side of Thien Quang Tinh, containing the treasured stone steles placed atop the backs of turtle statues. In Vietnamese culture, turtles are a symbol of wisdom and longevity. 

These tombstone-like monuments honor graduates and sit atop turtles, which represent wisdom.

The names commemorate more than 1,300 students who attained doctoral ranks in the triennial royal court exams held at Quoc Tu Giam and provide details about the greatness of the monarch issuing the exam, as well as some regional history. Over time, the turtles’ foreheads have become burnished by the touch of thousands of hands — it was considered good luck for students to rub the heads of the statues before their exams. 

Shrines to two of Confucius’ followers

The Ceremonial Hall and Sanctuary of Great Success

The fourth courtyard is where you’ll find the Ceremonial Hall and Dai Bai Duong, the Sanctuary of Great Success, which was once considered so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, anyone may enter.

Inside is an elaborately decorated altar to Confucius and his four disciples Yanhui, Mencius, Zisi and Zheng Shen. One each side stands a bronze crane atop a turtle’s back.

Wally loves a giant crane — but feels bad for the poor turtle it’s standing on.

The Sanctuary of Great Success houses a shrine to Confucius.

This part of the temple was once so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, you’re free to roam about its confines.

From University to Pagoda of Crows

The fifth and final courtyard is where the actual university, Quoc Tu Giam, once stood. It lay abandoned when the French arrived in 1883 and was referred to pejoratively by them as the Pagoda of Crows since a flock of the black birds nested in an old mango tree on the site. The French razed the original building to accommodate the sick and wounded during wartime.

The roots of a massive banyan tree allow Wally to take a dramatic shot.

Duke taking a break while exploring the temple

Today, there are several exhibits within the reconstructed academy, including a statue of Chu Van An, one of the academy’s rectors and a beloved figure in Vietnamese history for his dedication to teaching. 

Fortunately, the Temple of Literature has retained most of its original architectural style and character through multiple wars and restorations. It was declared a monument historique in 1906 by the French administration and restored by the École Française d’Extrême-Orient in 1920. Admission is 30,000 Vietnamese dong, or about $1.30. –Duke

---

TAKE A 360-DEGREE VIRTUAL TOUR of the Temple of Literature

---

A dragon undulates along the rooftop of the sanctuary.

Temple of Literature
58 Quốc Tử Giám
Văn Miếu
Đống Đa
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

 

Ngoc Son, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, in the Hanoi Old Quarter

Enter the gates and cross the bright red Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake to explore this Hanoi tourist attraction and see the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

If you’re staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and wandering its warren of narrow streets like we did, chances are you’ll eventually end up at Hoan Kiem Lake. The small body of water is located in the historic district and known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. Its name alludes to the mythical blade wielded by Emperor Le Loi, a powerful warrior credited with liberating Vietnam from Chinese rule in 1428. 

After finishing our breakfasts of toasted baguettes and instant coffee with condensed milk at the Prince II Hotel on our second day in the Old Quarter, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I headed out to visit Den Ngoc Son. One of the most-visited sites in Hanoi, the Temple of the Jade Mountain lies on a small islet off the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Rua, Tortoise Tower

This is also where you’ll find the picturesque yet inaccessible landmark, Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower. The structure sits on a remote island in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake and was built in 1886 to memorialize the legend of General Le Loi and Kim Qui, the golden tortoise who’s believed to fiercely protect the magical sword of the Dragon King beneath the placid waters. 

One of the temple’s colorful shrines

According to historical documents within the temple grounds, Ngoc Son was established in 1841 and later renovated under the guidance of Confucian scholar-poet Nguyen Van Sieu in 1864. Its pavilions and pagoda-style shrines are dedicated to revered beings and enlightened teachers, including General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century; La To, the patron saint of physicians; and scholar Van Xuong De Quan.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

Three Is the Magic Number: Through the Tam Quan Gates

In Vietnamese culture, odd numbers bring luck and fortune, and perhaps that’s why most Vietnamese temples feature the traditional tam quan, or triple gate — which is the case at Ngoc Son. 

The first gate is decorated with two large red Chinese characters — happiness on the right, and prosperity on the left. I’d like to imagine that by walking through this portal, these attributes are bestowed upon those who make the pilgrimage to the temple. 

Just beyond and adjacent to the first gate is the Tháp Bút, a stone tower built in the shape of a traditional calligraphy brush, complete with nib. Erected by Nguyen Van Sieu, the totem-like monument is inscribed with the words “Tà thanh thiên,” which somehow carries this lengthy meaning: To write on the blue sky is to imply the height of a genuine and righteous person's determination and will.

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate is embellished with colorful relief panels containing the Taoist symbols of yin and yang — a dragon and a tiger. The dragon represents male yang energy as power, wisdom and strength, while the tiger represents female protective yin energy.

Swimming koi carp gazing at the moon's reflection near a pine tree with roosting white cranes and are depicted on the other side and symbolize the concept of longevity — cranes are mythically believed to live for 1,000 years (koi, not so much). 

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

Finally, there’s the third gate. Be sure to pause in front of it and look up for the curious stone resembling half a peach perched on the back of three frogs. This object is known as the Dai Nghien, or Ink Slab. It was intentionally placed here by Van Sieu and ingeniously follows the Vietnamese lunar calendar. Like something out of a Dan Brown novel or perhaps an Indiana Jones adventure, the Pen Tower aligns with the sun every May 5 (which is, incidentally, Wally’s birthday) and casts its shadow upon the sacred stone. 

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

What the Huc?! Over the Red Bridge

Once Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the three gates, we crossed the graceful crimson painted wooden Huc Bridge, which arches over Hoan Kiem Lake, linking the shore with the islet. 

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Another gate separates the outside world from the interior realm of Ngoc Son Temple, known as the Dac Nguyen Lau, or Moon Reflection Pavilion. It was constructed in the Taoist style and has raised relief panels depicting the kylân, or lion-horse (often mistranslated as “unicorn”). This mythical hybrid animal symbolizes loyalty and power. To the left of the kylân is a tortoise carrying a book and a sword — representing strength and longevity. Both are suitable guardians for protecting the temple that lies beyond. 

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Pagodas, Pavilions and Taxidermied Turtles, Oh My!

Inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. The upswept eaves of the terracotta-tiled rooftops are adorned with intricately carved dragons. Altars brim with offerings of fresh flowers, tea, fruit and money left by worshippers. 

In front of the Tran Ba, the main pavilion, is a massive cauldron-shaped incense burner with stylized dragon heads on either side. The smell of incense smoke is one of my strongest memories of Hanoi — its scent permeated the humid air at all hours of the day. Incense is considered to be a sacred bridge between the visible world of the living and the spiritual realm of heaven and the gods.

Doors leading into the temple

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

There are also braziers specifically designed for burning joss paper, colorful fake currency known as ghost or spirit money. These offerings are believed to provide material wealth to deceased relatives and friends as well as deities. 

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Today, the turtle and the sword are a symbol of Hanoi, and you’ll notice this iconography throughout the city — including the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old. Sadly, the lake’s last known resident tortoise passed into legend in 2016 due to pollution. 

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

A jade demon

A holy man

If you’d like a more authentic experience like we did, I’d recommended visiting Ngoc Son in the morning. You’ll find it buzzing with worshippers and locals who come to make their offerings before their workday. As one of the most-visited sights in the Old Quarter, it can become overrun with tourists by mid-afternoon. 

A gilded phoenix

Inside the temple

The entrance fee is a mere 3,000 dong or 13¢. To be respectful, consider covering your shoulders and knees before entering the temple. 

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

I’d also recommend walking around the lake at night to see the Huc Bridge and Tortoise Tower shimmering reflected on the surface of the water. It’s enough to make you believe in magic. –Duke

 

Ngoc Son Temple
Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Hàng Trống
Hoàn Kiếm
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

The Many Layers of Luxor Temple

The town of Luxor now surrounds this ancient complex built as a festival site by Amenhotep III and added on to by Hatshepsut, King Tut and Alexander the Great.

The modern city of Luxor has been built around the ancient temple complex

Americans never wanted a monarch like our friends across the pond, against whom we rebelled to set up a democracy. So we don’t know what it’s like to get caught up in a king’s or queen’s jubilee as the Brits do. 

It was a similar type of celebration that led to Luxor Temple. Amenhotep III, having been on the throne for 30 years, was due a Sed festival, an ancient rite to represent the rejuvenation of the pharaoh and renew his contract with the gods. Not every pharaoh made it three decades on the throne — at a time when that was pretty much the life expectancy — and Amenhotep was determined to celebrate his jubilee unlike any of his forebears. 

“Don’t miss the carvings of none other than Alexander the Great worshipping Amun-Min, whose massive hard-on points toward the legendary, bisexual conqueror.”

Luxor Temple was an important place of worship for 3,000 years!

He looked three miles south of Karnak Temple and directly across the Nile from his mortuary temple at a small shrine that acted as the “southern residence” of the composite god Amun-Ra. The town of Luxor, known as Thebes in ancient times, now surrounds the temple complex.

This colonnade was designed to resemble bundles of papyrus, an important plant for the Egyptians, used to make paper, sandals and other essentials

Amenhotep III had his architects design a vast open court with double rows of columns that resemble bundles of papyrus. The pharaoh was becoming more and more interested in solar worship, so he instructed that no roof cover this structure, allowing the sun’s rays to fill the space. With electrum walls and silver furnishings, you can only imagine how blinding the court would have been on a sunny day, filling worshippers with a sense of awe at the power of Amun-Ra.

Because they make noise at sunrise, as if in greeting, baboons were connected to sun worship for the Ancient Egyptians

Son of God

But Egyptologists say that the most important room in Luxor Temple is a small one at the back, behind the shrine where the solar barque, the god’s vessel, was kept, and next to an offering room. In this seemingly unobtrusive chamber, Amenhotep III rewrote his history (a favorite pastime of the pharaohs). He tells the tale of how his mother, Mutemwia, was visited in her bedchamber by what looked like her husband, Thutmose IV, but was actually the chief deity, Amun-Ra. 

The inscription at Luxor is a much more graphic recounting than the divine parentage story Hatshepsut inscribed in her mortuary temple. Amenhotep seems to delight in the details of his mother’s arousal:

She awoke because of the god’s scent and cried out with pleasure before his majesty. … She rejoiced at the sight of his beauty, and love of him suffused her body. …

“How great is your power!” … Your dew permeates all my limbs.” And then the majesty of this god did all that he desired with her.

Amenhotep-ruler-of-Thebes is the name of this child that I have placed in your womb. … He shall exercise potent kingship in this entire land. … He shall rule the Two Lands like Ra forever.

Speaking of graphic depictions, the Amun worshipped here was conflated with the fertility god Min and was depicted with an impressive erection. Don’t miss the carvings here that show none other than Alexander the Great worshipping this god, whose massive hard-on points toward the legendary, bisexual conqueror.

Alexander the Great, crowned as pharaoh, worships Amun in the form of Min, who has one arm, one leg and one giant erection

Luxor Temple became the primary stage for kingly rituals, including the Opet festival, when the Amun statue at Karnak would come for a visit.

An avenue of sphinxes once stretched for two miles, connecting Luxor to Karnak Temple

Various pharaohs put their stamp on Luxor, as seen in the Court of Ramesses

A Favorite of the Pharaohs

Over the course of 3,000 years, pharaohs added onto or rebuilt the temple. It’s interesting that Amenhotep III is known as the Sun King, and that his son, Amenhotep IV,  later chose the name of Akhenaten when he infamously shifted worship away from the pantheon led by Amun to a single deity, Aten, the sun itself. It seems the son took the father’s solar passion to an extreme. 

While Amenhotep laid the foundation for a colonnade in front of his sun court, it was completed by Akhenaten’s short-lived son, the famous Tutankhamun. Inside the massive hall, columns soar 60 feet into the air, and six striding colossi wowed visitors. 

Unlike so many other temples of Ancient Egypt, Luxor is open-aired, highlighting its connection to the sun

Ramesses II, who never shied away from an opportunity to proclaim his greatness, added on to Luxor, installing a forecourt, a pylon gateway and statues out front. To obtain the construction materials needed, he engaged in another preferred pastime of the pharaohs: razing and raiding the temples and pyramids of ages past. 

Ramesses shifted the axis of the temple to the east to align it with Karnak, to which it was connected by a sphinx-lined processional avenue.

You can see where the ancient stone wall ends and the new mosque built atop it starts

Religions Built Atop One Another 

Luxor, like most of the temples of Ancient Egypt was at some point buried in the shifting sands of the desert. But at no sight is this more clear than here, where you can literally see the different colors of the rock showing what was buried for millennia. 

Old meets new and Islam meets Ancient Egyptian at Luxor

You can also see how the complex was converted to various Christian churches in the 4th to 6th centuries, when Romans incorporated the entire complex into a castrum, or fortified military encampment. Icons of various holy figures can still be seen painted on one of the walls. 

In the late 3rd century, during the reign of Diocletian, this section of Luxor became a Roman legionary shrine. Part of the fresco can still be seen

With the rise of Islam, Muslims built a mosque atop one of the churches here. This striking place of worship sits perched atop one of Luxor’s surrounding walls and is still in use to this day. 

Venture to the back of Luxor Temple to see statues of King Tut and Queen Ankhesenpaaten

A Bizarre Ritual Out Back

While we wandered the open-air structures at the back of the temple, past two pairs of decaying statues, an Egyptian policeman approached us. The ubiquitous machine gun strapped across his chest that never failed to put me ill at ease was counteracted by his beaming smile. 

He signaled for us to follow him. A bit nervous but curious, Duke and I followed him into a nook in the far corner of the complex. The policeman gestured for our phone to take a picture. With Duke’s iPhone in hand, he began a series of strange choreography, intertwining our fingers of one hand and having us touch the ancient stone with the other. (I know you’re not supposed to touch the monuments, but when an armed guard tells you to do something, you obey. Sure enough, we weren’t the first to follow this bizarre ritual — the stone was worn, polished by the oils of countless hands.) He snapped a shot, then had us hold our hands toward each other in a prayer gesture, like we were about to play pattycake. Snap, another picture. And finally, he had us keep our hands in that position but place them against the wall in the same spot we had previously touched. 

An armed policeman ran Duke and Wally through a series of strange motions — though they have no idea what it all meant

It was all quite amusing, though we’re not sure what exactly was the desired outcome. Perhaps it was an ancient spell for fertility — and if that’s the case, what a waste doing it on a couple of gays. 

We offered the cop a tip, known as baksheesh in Arabic, which he gladly pocketed. 

Admission to Luxor Temple costs 140 Egyptian pounds, or less than $9 at the time of this writing. –Wally

 

Philae Temple: Saved From Destruction

Catch this island temple of Isis in Aswan after visiting Abu Simbel — and be glad it’s no longer underwater.

When you visit Aswan, be sure to explore this island temple, one of the latest and best preserved in Egypt

That damn dam. 

The Egyptians knew that building the Aswan Dam would destroy a collection of impressive temples of the ancient world. But controlling the fickle waters of the River Nile for agriculture and hydroelectric power trumped architectural preservation. 

So, back in 1899, work began on the first Aswan Dam, sometimes referred to as the Aswan Low Dam. Completed in 1902, the structure plugged up the Nile and created an artificial body of water, Lake Nasser. And from December to March, Philae Temple, one of many such casualties, sat mostly engulfed, only its top peeking above the water.

“The first Aswan Dam flooded Philae Temple from December to March, with only its top peeking above the water.”

For four months of the year, Philae Temple and its nearby buildings, like the Kiosk of Trajan, sat underwater. The temple has since been relocated to a different, and drier, island

The Aswan Low Dam flooded Philae Temple, and the new dam, built in the 1970s, would have entirely submerged this historic treasure

For 70 years, that’s how the temple remained. But flooding from the Nile persisted to plague the area, and the Egyptian leader Gamal Abdel Nasser had dreams of bringing hydroelectric power to the entire country. Plans were drawn up to construct a new barrage, the Aswan High Dam. 

This dam would have completely flooded Philae. So good old UNESCO, the savior of so many historic sites, helmed a project, from 1972 to 1980, to move the temple, brick by numbered brick, to its current home, on Agilkia Island in Aswan.

One of the Ptolemaic pharaohs presents an offering to the goddess Isis, with her massive wings

Cult Center of the Goddess Isis

Lasting well into the Christian era of Ancient Rome, Philae was one of the last places where the Egyptian religion was practiced. Pilgrims came from far away to pay respects to the goddess Isis, who had inspired mystery cults across the empire. 

Poor Isis. Much like the swastika, which was a Hindu symbol for centuries but is now is a cringe-inducing reminder of Nazism, the Egyptian goddess’s name has been besmirched by the Islamic State terrorist group. 

In a characteristically bizarre Egyptian myth, Isis’ husband (and, um, brother) Osiris was murdered and chopped into 14 pieces by his brother Set, who then hid the body parts throughout Egypt. Isis, ever the dutiful wife, searched for the chunks of her beloved’s corpse — one of which, Osiris’ left leg, was hidden on an island near Philae. The goddess was able to recover all of the body parts, save one. Set had thrown Osiris’ penis into the Nile, where it was gobbled up by an Oxyrhynchus, a type of elephantfish.

Duke on the boat ride out to Philae Temple, seen in the background

Whatever Floats Your Boat

Part of the fun of visiting the Temple of Philae is the journey there. We didn’t have a lot of time in Aswan, so we got up at the crack of dawn to visit Abu Simbel (though ideally, you’d time your trip down there to miss the morning crowds and arrive around noon). On the way back to our hotel, the amazing Old Cataract, we asked our guide, Mamduh, if we could fit in Philae. It was getting a bit close to closing time, which was at 4 p.m. when we visited, but we didn’t want to miss seeing the complex.

We parked, and Mamduh walked with us past a small marketplace and down onto the docks. He spoke with a group of men and waved us over to one of the many boats berthed here, all narrow, white and red and lined with tires to act as fenders. We climbed aboard, our captain yanked the throttle, and the motor roared to life. 

These red and white boats are your transport to the island of Agilkia, where Philae has been moved to, stone by stone

The water in this part of the Nile is a deep blue that seems to contain the mysteries of the multiverse. There’s something magical about this peaceful stretch of the famous river, and it’s captivating to see the complex of Philae come into view as you approach from the water. 

We docked, climbed out of the boat and walked up the path to continue our expedition.

The first pylon presents an impressive entrance to the temple

Exploring the Island Temple of Philae

The island houses numerous structures. Most that remain were built by the Ptolemies (of which Cleopatra was the last) in the final two centuries BCE and then by the Roman emperors over the next 300 years.

We started by passing through the first pylon, the towered entrance, built in the telltale Ptolemaic style: two large tapering rectangular blocks joined by a smaller entryway, all sharp angles, with nary a curve or arch to be found. Two decaying lions presented themselves as non-threatening guardians.

This faceless lion doesn’t seem like much of a guardian, poor guy

Once inside the forecourt, we came upon a colonnade, an open courtyard lined by columns. On one side were rooms where priests once conducted scientific inquiries. On the other was a mammisi, or birth house. These structures are common on the outskirts of Egyptian temples and were built to honor the nativity of a deity — in this case, little falcon-headed Horus, the son of Isis and Osiris (somehow born after his father’s pecker got eaten by that fish). 

Duke and Wally at the temple complex

The courtyards have colonnades off to each side

Through another pylon, we entered the interior of the temple. This columned vestibule transported us to another world. We noted the Coptic crosses and Greek inscriptions, from when the temple was closed down and converted into a church around 535 CE by order of Emperor Justinian. In 116 CE, a group of Romans visited Philae and carved their names on the temple wall, leaving behind the oldest surviving Latin inscriptions in Egypt.

The interior of Philae

We then passed through antechambers and side rooms to reach the sanctuary of Isis — the holy of holies, as the Egyptians referred to it. This was a small room at the very back of the temple, with a block of stone that once held the solar boat used to transport the goddess’s statue when it was paraded about during festivals.

A look inside the sanctuary of the temple, where the sacred barque of Isis once sat upon a pedestal

Sunstroke Strikes!

Something we really appreciated about our guide, Mamduh, was that he always encouraged us to wander the sites we visited after he gave us a tour, telling us to take our time and find him at the ubiquitous nearby café. We highly recommend booking him or another guide through Egypt Sunset Tours.

With most of the other temples of Ancient Egypt in desert settings, one of the coolest things about Philae is the vistas with views of the water

In addition to the main temple, there are other, smaller, buildings to see on the island. While we wandered the Temple of Hathor, at the water’s edge, Duke started feeling lightheaded and nauseous. His chest flared with red splotches, and he self-diagnosed a case of heatstroke. He tottered over to the nearby Kiosk of Trajan and sat in what little shade he could find. 

The Tempe of Hathor at Philae

Take a walk around the small island to see the other buildings apart from the temple to Isis

The Kiosk of Trajan is an iconic structure at Philae

The goddess Hathor was commonly depicted with cow ears

At the Temple of Hathor, look for the dwarf god, Bes. He’s a fascinating figure — learn more about him here

Philae isn’t a good place to escape the blazing sun, as most of the complex is exposed. We had taken a quick circuit of the island and decided to end our tour since Duke wasn’t feeling well. 

A small open-air café sits at the tip of the island, and this is where we met Mamduh. We found a table in the shade and treated ourselves to ice cream. Within an instant, we were completely surrounded by cats jealously eyeing our treats. Duke and I can’t resist a friendly feline, so we dropped a few bite-sized pieces of ice cream onto the ground, which the cats would lap up happily. Mamduh laughed and shook his head in disbelief as if he had never seen such a thing before. (He probably hadn’t.)

End your adventure at the outdoor café at one end of the island

Cats lounge by the water

And they also beg for food

After our offerings to the familiars of the feline-headed goddess Bastet, we walked back to the boat. As we rounded the hill, we saw our captain, along with two other men, prostrating themselves on the wooden dock, saying their late afternoon prayers in the direction of Mecca. I felt bad when he saw us and cut short his prayer, quickly jumping up to help us aboard the boat for the short, pleasant trip back to the mainland. –Wally

A map of the Philae complex on Agilkia Island (even though it’s in French, you should still be able to decipher it

The first pylon, or entrance tower, at Philae Temple

“Isis was able to recover all of Osiris’ body parts, save one. His penis had been thrown into the Nile, where it was gobbled up by a fish.”

 

Pharaoh Hatshepsut

14 ways this powerful Ancient Egyptian woman used genderbending to become a female pharaoh, as revealed in Kara Cooney’s “The Woman Who Would Be King.”

Ancient Egypt wasn’t a bad place or time to be a woman. They had a surprising amount of rights and freedom — even to become pharaoh, like Hatshepsut.

Everyone knows all about Cleopatra, the clever seductress of two powerful Roman men who ruled over Ancient Egypt.

But without her forebear Hatshepsut, there might never have been a Cleopatra. Surely Cleopatra looked upon the woman who rose to the upper echelon of power as a true inspiration.

What made Hatshepsut’s success all the more remarkable was how unprecedented it was. Sadly, for the most part, feminism hasn’t progressed beyond the traditional patriarchy over the past few millennia. Case in point, the United States has yet to elect a woman as president.

In the ancient world, having a woman at the top of the political pyramid was practically unheard of. Patriarchal systems ruled the day, and royal wives, sisters, and daughters served as members of the king’s harem or as important priestesses in his temples, not as political leaders. Throughout the Mediterranean and northwest Asia, female leadership was perceived with suspicion, if not outright aversion.

–Kara Cooney, “The Woman Who Would Be King: Hatshepsut’s Rise to Power in Ancient Egypt”

---

LEARN 9 FASCINATING FACTS about Hatshepsut’s early life here.

---

In terms of the ancient world, Hatshepset truly was a remarkable woman. As our guide Mamduh mused, “They should make a movie about her — maybe many movies.”

Thank Sobek for Jean-François Champollion! He was the first to find references to our remarkable pharaoh in the modern era.

“History records only one female ruler who successfully negotiated a systematic rise to power — without assassinations or coups — during a time of peace, who formally labeled herself with the highest position known in government, and who ruled for a significant stretch of time: Hatshepsut,” writes Kara Cooney in The Woman Who Would Be King.

During her prosperous reign, gold, cedar, ebony and other goods flowed through Egypt, and the temples, shrines and obelisks raised in her name were so impressive that later pharaohs endeavored to be buried nearby, creating the Valley of the Kings.

Incidentally, we have French archaeologist Jean-François Champollion to thank for rediscovering the first hints of Hatshepset’s existence in 1928 — apparently, deciphering the Rosetta Stone wasn’t enough of a claim to fame. 

“Even Hatshepsut must have felt that her cross-dressing image was a bit too shocking for the time. ”

So how exactly did Hatshepsut move beyond being a queen regent to divine ruler? I do wonder how she viewed herself — could she be the first trans leader in history?

The loss of a nose makes this statue of Egypt’s first female king, Sobeknefru, a bit too creepy.

1. There was actually a female king of Egypt before Hatshepsut.

Just like Cleopatra, Hatshepsut had a role model from the past. Sobeknefru, daughter of Pharaoh Amenemhat III of the Twelfth Dynasty, ruled Egypt around 1800 BCE — about three centuries before Hatshepsut was born.

2. There wasn’t even a proper word for queen — so Sobeknefru blended masculine and feminine iconography.

The queens of Ancient Egypt were known as hemt neswt, or wife of the king — “a title with no implications of rule or power in its own right, only a description of a woman’s connection to the king as husband,” Cooney writes. To truly be seen as the ultimate ruler of the country, Sobeknefru had to take on the masculine title of “king.”

“Clothing was more problematic,” Cooney continues, “and Sobeknefru depicted herself wearing not only the masculine headdress of kingship but also the male royal kilt over the dress garments of a royal wife.”

---

THE FIRST FEMALE KING OF EGYPT, Sobeknefru, was named for the crocodile god, Sobek.

Learn more about his worship from our post on the temple of Kom Ombo.

---

3. A title shift on Hatshepsut’s monuments at Karnak might be the first clue of her massive ambitions.

A few years before she even became king, Hatshepsut dropped the title of God’s Wife, opting instead for the title of King’s Eldest Daughter. While the role of high priestess was one of the most powerful in Ancient Egypt, the adoption of this new title set the stage for a legitimate claim to the throne. 

“Some Egyptologists see this rejiggering of her personal relationships as the crux of her power grab, a shift that moved her from a queen’s role to an heir’s, as the rightful offspring of Thutmose I and one who could make a heritable claim to the throne despite her female gender,” Cooney writes.

4. Like Sobeknefru before her, Hatshepsut reinvented her image as a nonbinary gender. 

Another section at Karnak, the most massive temple complex of the day, in the royal city of Thebes, present-day Luxor, depicts Hatshepsut in men’s garments along with women’s.

The block “shows Hatshepsut wearing the gown of a queen on her body but the crown of a king upon her head,” Cooney writes. “The atef crown — a fabulous and extravagant amalgamation of ram’s horns and tall double plumes — was depicted atop her short masculine wig, probably to the shock of the craftsmen in charge of cutting the decoration. It was a confusing image for the Egyptian viewer to digest: a female king performing royal duties, offering jars of wine directly to the god, and all before any official coronation.”

5. She also took on a throne name, a privilege reserved for kings — again, before she was even crowned.

In the text on the same monument at Karnak, Hatshepsut called herself the One of the Sedge and of the Bee, which is translated as King of Upper and Lower Egypt.

What’s more, she introduced a throne name, Maatkare, The Soul of Re Is Truth. This act was “inconceivable,” according to Cooney. “Hatshepsut was transforming her role into a strange hybrid of rule ordained before it had officially happened,” she writes.

Part of her throne name is the goddess of truth and justice, “implying that at the heart of the sun god’s power was a feminine entity, Ma’at, the source that was believed to keep the cosmos straight and true,” Cooney writes, continuing, “Hatshepsut’s throne name communicated to her people that her kingship was undoubtedly feminine, and that feminine justice was necessary to maintain life with proper order, judgment, and continuance.”

6. About nine years into Thutmose III’s reign, Hatshepsut was crowned pharaoh — meaning there were two kings simultaneously on the throne.

When Hatshepsut was about 24 years old, in 1478 BCE, “the impossible happened,” as Cooney states. Thutmose III might have been a child, but he was still officially the king. Yet Hatshepsut, that wonderful feminist icon, decided to stop being the queen regent and that she would share the throne with her young nephew.

In this carving from her funerary temple, Hatshepsut is shown as a male, wearing the false beard and crown of the pharaoh.

7. Hatshepsut’s coronation was an elaborate affair that was, apparently, attended by the gods themselves.

The coronation took place in the temple complex of Karnak over the course of several days. If we’re to believe Hatshepsut, her dead-but-deified father, Thutmose I, was the first to place the crown upon her head. The cow-headed goddess Hathor was also present, shouting a greeting and giving her a big hug. And the chief god, Amen-Re (also spelled Amun-Ra), “personally placed the double crown upon Hatshepsut’s head and invested her with the crook and flail of kingship, saying that he created her specifically to rule over his holy lands, to rebuild his temples and to perform ritual activity for him,” Cooney writes.

What better way for Hatshepsut to be seen as a legitimate monarch than by having received the blessings of the gods? She really wanted to hammer home the supposed events of her coronation day — she had images of the gods crowning her chiseled into the major house of worship of the time, Karnak, as well as her funerary temple at Deir el-Bahari.

---

SEE THE WONDROUS ARCHITECTURE of Hatshepsut’s funerary temple — and learn more about this surprisingly modern-looking structure.

---

8. Upon being crowned, Hatshepsut changed her birth name — yet another instance of gender ambiguity.

Hatshepsut added Khenemetenamen to the front of her name, “which, although unpronounceable for most of us,” Cooney writes, “essentially meant ‘Hatshepsut, United with Amen,’ communicating that her spirit had mingled with the very mind of the god Amen through a divine communion.” 

Interestingly, she kept a feminine ending as part of the construction of that mouthful of a name. “There was no subterfuge about her femininity in her new royal names, but her womanly core was now linked with a masculine god through her kingship,” Cooney adds.

9. Hatshepsut’s royal names didn’t hide the fact that she was a woman. She was out to change the very perception of a king.

Egyptian kings liked to prove how macho they were, choosing names like Ka-ankht, Strong Bull. Hatshepsut’s Horus name was Useret-kau, Powerful of Ka Spirits, tying herself not to physical (and sexual) prowess, but to the mysterious might of the spirits of the dead. 

Like her new birth name, Hatshepsut used the feminine -t ending. “She and her priests knew her limitations as a woman and seemed interested in flexibility rather than deceit,” Cooney explains. “She became king in name and title, but she knew that she could not transform into a king’s masculine body. She couldn’t impregnate a harem of women with any divine seed. There was no need for her royal names to point out those deficiencies or to lie about her true nature. Instead, she and her priests focused on how her femininity could coalesce with and complement masculine powers.”

Only kings wore these long false beards — though only Amun knows why!

10. Hatshepsut immediately upgraded her existing iconography once she became pharaoh.

All of the images of her as queen under Thutmose III were altered to show her as the senior king of a co-regency. “No longer would she be depicted as subordinate to Thutmose III,” Cooney writes. “Every sacred space in Egypt was changed, especially in the cultic centers of power, where an image translated into reality and to write or depict something was to make it come into existence.”

11. The color of Hatshepsut’s skin in her statuary demonstrated her progression from female to male. 

Females in Ancient Egyptian art were shown with yellow skin, while males were red ochre. It’s thought that women were inside more often (weaving in the harem, one supposes) and didn’t get as tanned as the manly men out on military expeditions and the like. While Hatshepsut’s early statues stuck with the traditional yellow skin tone, later depictions, such as the ones showing her as Osiris, the god of rebirth at her funerary temple, are of an orange hue — a strangely androgynous colorization that must have baffled people at the time. By the end of her reign, Hatshepsut had adopted the red skin associated with males.

Statue after statue of Hatshepsut in a mummy pose like the god Osiris lines her funeral temple. The color has long since faded, but these carvings once had orange skin — in-between the yellow used for women and the red used for men.

12. In addition to skin color, Hatshepsut’s statues started taking on more and more male characteristics.

Early on, Hatshepsut’s genderbending positioned her as truly androgynous. On a lifesize statue from her funerary temple, she has a woman’s facial features, graceful shoulders and small, pert breasts — but she’s shirtless and wearing a king’s kilt. Even Hatshepsut must have felt that this cross-dressing image was a bit too shocking for the time. It was placed in the innermost chambers of her temple, away from the public, where only the most elite would ever see it. This drastic hybrid sexuality was never replicated.

Eventually, Hatshepsut’s statues had broader shoulders, and her breasts became the firm pecs of an idealized young man.

Because Hatshepsut presented herself as a male, Egyptologists can’t tell whether this is a statue of her or of her co-king, Thutmose III.

13. Hieroglyphic text went back and forth between referring to Hatshepsut as a female and as a male.

Sometimes she was “she;” sometimes she was “he.” On occasion, she was the Son of Ra, the sun god; more often she was referred to as the Daughter of Ra. Once in a while, she was called the “good god,” but most of the time — even accompanying a masculinized image of her — she was the “good goddess.”

14. Like many a pharaoh, Hatshepsut told a story of her divine birth.

The combo god Amun-Ra is said to have visited her mother in her bedchamber. “She awoke because of the fragrance of the god,” the text reads. I’m sure a bit more happened than this, but Hatshepsut chose to depict the moment as her mom and Amun-Ra sitting across from each other, hands touching, gazing sweetly into each other’s eyes.

This avant-garde woman rose to the highest political rank in a society over 3,000 years ago. So it shouldn’t surprise us to learn that after her death, her successor tried his very best to wipe all references to his aunt being king from the face of the planet. –Wally

Interview With an Archaeologist

A firsthand account of what it was like to excavate the Hatshepsut temple at Deir el-Bahari in the 1970s.

Kenneth shares his experience as an archaeologist in Luxor, Egypt in the early 1970s.

Archaeology is one of those careers that sounds so thrilling — I always picture Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones on his search for the Ark of the Covenant (minus the snakes). But it turns out that, more often than not, this profession means long hours, low pay, and months or years of tedious fieldwork.

That being said, when Kenneth reached out to us with a kind note about our blog, mentioning that he had been briefly involved with the excavation of Hatshepsut’s temple at Deir el-Bahari, we simply had to learn more. 

He obliged with an interview of what it was like to be an archaeologist in Egypt half a century ago, back when he was a starving field worker put up at the now-glamorous Winter Palace hotel, “in a shabby, Nile-view room with the bathroom far down the hall.” –Wally

The Colossi of Memnon stood as they do today, in a clearing surrounded by fields. But there were no barriers of any kind — you could climb the statues if agile enough.

What was it like being an archaeologist?

I was not a classical archaeologist for very long. (Not nearly as long as it took me to get my degree!) Turns out I liked to eat. And pay rent. Field work, which was really the reason I went into archaeology, pays next to nothing. There’s always a candidate working towards their doctorate who will offer to do the work for free. 

In 1969, I worked in Winchester, England (the Roman capital of Britain) under the well-respected British archaeologist Martin Biddle and Birthe, his Danish-born archaeologist wife. It was Martin who got me a temporary position the next season with the joint British-Polish expedition working at Deir el-Bahari. 

I was only at Luxor a few months before the Vietnam War intruded and I went off to the Navy. When I was discharged in 1973, the Arab-Israeli War was looming, and available funds for archaeological work in Egypt had completely dried up. I took what I thought would be a temporary job as a flight attendant, fell in love with the job and stayed 30 years. During that time, I met my husband, Michael (we celebrated our 35th anniversary last week), and the impracticality of going off on a months-long dig and leaving Michael at home put an end to any thoughts of returning to archaeology. 

The top colonnade on Hatshepsut’s funerary temple — which did not exist in 1970 — is complete in this 1989 photo.

What was the project you were working on? 

In 1970, restoration work was focusing on the third tier of Hatshepsut’s temple. The structure has been extensively rebuilt. Some Egyptologists would say overly rebuilt. 

There was an ongoing search for stone blocks that had been appropriated by later pharaohs to use for their own building projects. In Upper Egypt there are vast areas filled with thousands of broken stone blocks from fallen or dismantled  structures. Often, missing stones from a particular ancient monument can be discovered and moved (at great effort and expense) to their original site.

Kenneth’s husband, Michael, studying the statue of Horus at the temple at Edfu

Imagine you are working on a jigsaw puzzle. Some of the pieces are missing. In the next room someone has dumped into a huge pile thousands and thousands of pieces from hundreds of different jigsaw puzzles. In that pile you might find the missing pieces from your puzzle. The image on one of the pieces you are missing will be of a human arm. The left arm. And so as you sift through the huge pile of dumped puzzle pieces you are looking for one bearing the image of a left arm. 

Of course, in Ancient Egypt when a stone was reused, it often had carving on one side. The stone would be turned so the carving was no longer visible, and a new carving would be done on a blank side of the stone block. Five hundred years later, the block might be reused again, and so there would be a third side that would be carved…

So, going back to that pile of jigsaw pieces, as you are looking for that image of a left arm, you’re having to turn each puzzle piece because there are different images on each side of each piece.

Fifty years ago, it was a laborious task to try to find a particular stone in one of many locations up and down the Nile. (Now, computers do the work in seconds.) There were huge books full of illustrations of thousands of “available” stones. One needed to just keep looking. And if — by chance — a stone with the left arm was found, arrangements had to be made to legally acquire and move a multi-ton block of granite or sandstone. Reams of paperwork were required. It was what we’d call grunt work. And that’s mostly what I did. No glamour. No glint of gold in the sand. It was pouring over books and filling out paperwork. But it was Egypt, and I loved it. (At Winchester I was actually on my hands and knees, excavating a burial ground filled with Roman soldiers. I found coins minted under the reign of Hadrian and carved-bone dice for gambling, and because of the high peat content of the soil, well-preserved leather sandals as well. Skeleton after skeleton too — some of the bodies pathetically shattered in battle.) 

What’s your take on Hatshepsut? 

Well, of course she’s a fascinating person. The oldest known woman on the planet. She jumps out at us, her carved thoughts in many instances perfectly preserved because Thutmose III covered them with a layer of stone: “Now my heart turns this way and that, as I think what the people will say. Those who see my monuments in years to come, and who shall speak of what I have done.”

I think that Hatshepsut, like Cleopatra Vll, 13 centuries later (and Joan of Arc, 1,400 years after that), must have dazzled through the sheer force of her personality, to have accomplished what she did. Usurping her stepson’s throne might have made sense if the lad was unwell or unfit for the job. But he went on to be one of Egypt’s greatest pharaohs! Was that despite Hatshepsut, or because of her?

Kenneth posing with Cleopatra and Caesarion on the rear wall of the temple complex at Dendera

When I worked in Egypt, there was only a slim hope that Hatshepsut’s body would ever be found. The fact that her architect (and supposed lover) Senemut’s red granite sarcophagus had been discovered broken into many pieces and spread across the desert seemed to indicate a royal temper tantrum that could very well have been Thutmose lll’s. Easy to imagine him hating the commoner whom Hatshepsut had showered with titles. I always thought that if Thutmose hated Senemut that much, he must have hated his ruling stepmother as well. The thought of ever finding her remains struck me as highly unlikely. I figured he eventually “grew a pair” and had her murdered and her body fed to the jackals.

But no! Now we know she was lying right under our noses in KV20 in the Valley of the Kings! And the proof that it was her right there in the Cairo Museum: one of Hatshepsut’s molars, packed in a small wooden box bearing her cartouche, and matching the gap in her mummified jaw. And we now know she grew old, and fat — with pendulous breasts. A life lived long!

So how and why was the throne eventually turned over to Thutmose? That is a mystery we may never unravel. I like to think Thutmose may have been a late bloomer. That his smart, capable stepmother watched over him and groomed him to become the great pharaoh he was.  

The timeless Old Cataract, which Kenneth and Michael say is “one of our favorite hotels anywhere in the world.” Wally and Duke agree!

What was your favorite memory of that time in Egypt? 

There were no tourists! War with Israel was looming. Luxor was virtually empty. Once, on a day off, I had Luxor Temple entirely to myself. Walking down a colonnade, between towering pillars, a falcon flew just over my head, sailing along ahead of me about 20 feet in the air. At the end of the colonnade, he rose up and landed on top of the head of an enormous statue — a statue of Horus. I just stood perfectly still, savoring the moment, and feeling I’d been visited by a god.

The floating restaurant Bodour, moored just upriver from the Winter Palace in Luxor, was one of their favorite places to dine, with its sumptuous Belle Epoque furnishings.

What was your least favorite memory of Egypt? 

The food. I grew up in health-conscious San Francisco. I was desperate for salads, which were not safe anywhere in Egypt because produce was routinely fertilized with human excrement. I gave in to temptation on a quick trip to Cairo and ordered a chef’s salad at the Nile Hilton, the hotel in the city. (It’s now the Ritz-Carlton.) I thought, “Surely it will be safe to eat a salad here.” Nope. I ended up at Cairo’s American Hospital for two days!

The rising sun turns the Theban mountains pink. As you can see, the West Bank was entirely agricultural. Luxor had yet to jump the river.

How has Egypt changed since the 1970s?

As far as the monuments are concerned, 50 years is a mere blink of the eye. The ancient stones are unchanged. What has changed is contemporary Egypt. In 1970 the view across the Nile from the Winter Palace was one of cultivated fields and the distant Theban mountains. That was it. (I could just make out the ramps at Deir el-Bahari from my room’s balcony.) There were hardly any visible West Bank buildings at all. The few villages, such as sand-colored Qurna, blended in with the cliffs. These days, the city of Luxor has jumped the river and spread along the West Bank.